MORE than three years have elapsed since the occurrence of
the events recorded in this volume. The interval, with the
exception of the last few months, has been chiefly spent by the
author tossing about on the wide ocean. Sailors are the only class
of men who nowadays see anything like stirring adventure; and
many things which to fireside people appear strange and romantic, to them
seem as common-place as a jacket out at elbows. Yet, notwithstanding the
familiarity of sailors with all sorts of curious adventure, the incidents
recorded in the following pages have often served, when 'spun as a yarn,' not
only to relieve the weariness of many a night-watch at sea, but to excite the
warmest sympathies of the author's shipmates. He has been,
therefore, led to think that his story could scarcely fail to interest
those who are less familiar than the sailor with a life of
adventure.
In his account of the singular and interesting people among
whom he was thrown, it will be observed that he chiefly treats of their
more obvious peculiarities; and, in describing their customs, refrains in
most cases from entering into explanations concerning their origin and
purposes. As writers of travels among barbarous communities are
generally very diffuse on these subjects, he deems it right to advert to what
may be considered a culpable omission. No one can be more sensible than
the author of his deficiencies in this and many other respects; but when
the very peculiar circumstances in which he was placed are understood, he
feels assured that all these omissions will be excused.
In very many published narratives no little degree of
attention is bestowed upon dates; but as the author lost all knowledge
of the days of the week, during the occurrence of the scenes
herein related, he hopes that the reader will charitably pass over
his shortcomings in this particular.
In the Polynesian words used in this volume,—except in
those cases where the spelling has been previously determined
by others,—that form of orthography has been employed, which might be
supposed most easily to convey their sound to a stranger. In several
works descriptive of the islands in the Pacific, many of the most beautiful
combinations of vocal sounds have been altogether lost to the ear of the
reader by an over-attention to the ordinary rules of spelling.
There are a few passages in the ensuing chapters which may
be thought to bear rather hard upon a reverend order of men, the account
of whose proceedings in different quarters of the globe— transmitted to us
through their own hands—very generally, and often very deservedly, receives
high commendation. Such passages will be found, however, to be based
upon facts admitting of no contradiction, and which have come immediately
under the writer's cognizance. The conclusions deduced from these facts
are unavoidable, and in stating them the author has been influenced by no
feeling of animosity, either to the individuals themselves, or to that
glorious cause which has not always been served by the proceedings of some of
its advocates.
The great interest with which the important events
lately occurring at the Sandwich, Marquesas, and Society Islands,
have been regarded in America and England, and indeed throughout
the world, will, he trusts, justify a few otherwise
unwarrantable digressions.
There are some things related in the narrative which will
be sure to appear strange, or perhaps entirely incomprehensible, to the
reader; but they cannot appear more so to him than they did to the author at
the time. He has stated such matters just as they occurred, and leaves
every one to form his own opinion concerning them; trusting that his anxious
desire to speak the unvarnished truth will gain for him the confidence of
his readers. 1846.
INTRODUCTION TO THE EDITION OF 1892.
BY ARTHUR STEDMAN.
OF the trinity of American authors whose births made the
year 1819 a notable one in our literary history—Lowell, Whitman,
and Melville—it is interesting to observe that the two latter were both
descended, on the fathers' and mothers' sides respectively, from have
families of British New England and Dutch New York extraction. Whitman
and Van Velsor, Melville and Gansevoort, were the several combinations which
produced these men; and it is easy to trace in the life and character of each
author the qualities derived from his joint ancestry. Here, however,
the resemblance ceases, for Whitman's forebears, while worthy
country people of good descent, were not prominent in public or
private life. Melville, on the other hand, was of distinctly
patrician birth, his paternal and maternal grandfathers having been
leading characters in the Revolutionary War; their descendants
still maintaining a dignified social position.
Allan Melville, great-grandfather of Herman Melville,
removed from Scotland to America in 1748, and established himself as
a merchant in Boston. His son, Major Thomas Melville, was a
leader in the famous Boston Tea Party of 1773 and afterwards became
an officer in the Continental Army. He is reported to have been
a Conservative in all matters except his opposition to unjust taxation,
and he wore the old-fashioned cocked hat and knee-breeches until his death,
in 1832, thus becoming the original of Doctor Holmes's poem, 'The Last
Leaf'. Major Melville's son Allan, the father of Herman, was an
importing merchant,—first in Boston, and later in New York. He was a
man of much culture, and was an extensive traveller for his time.
He married Maria Gansevoort, daughter of General Peter Gansevoort, best
known as 'the hero of Fort Stanwix.' This fort was situated on the
present site of Rome, New York; and there Gansevoort, with a small body of men,
held in check reinforcements on their way to join Burgoyne, until the
disastrous ending of the latter's campaign of 1777 was insured. The
Gansevoorts, it should be said, were at that time and subsequently residents
of Albany, N.Y.
Herman Melville was born in New York on August 1,1819,
and received his early education in that city. There he imbibed
his first love of adventure, listening, as be says in 'Redburn,' while his
father 'of winter evenings, by the well-remembered sea-coal fire in old
Greenwich Street, used to tell my brother and me of the monstrous waves at
sea, mountain high, of the masts bending like twigs, and all about Havre and
Liverpool.' The death of his father in reduced circumstances
necessitated the removal of his mother and the family of eight brothers
and sisters to the village of Lansingburg, on the Hudson River. There
Herman remained until 1835, when he attended the Albany Classical School for
some months. Dr. Charles E. West, the well-known Brooklyn educator, was
then in charge of the school, and remembers the lad's deftness in English
composition, and his struggles with mathematics.
The following year was passed at Pittsfield, Mass., where
he engaged in work on his uncle's farm, long known as the 'Van Schaack
place.' This uncle was Thomas Melville, president of the Berkshire
Agricultural Society, and a successful gentleman farmer.
Herman's roving disposition, and a desire to support
himself independently of family assistance, soon led him to ship as
cabin boy in a New York vessel bound for Liverpool. He made
the voyage, visited London, and returned in the same ship.
'Redburn: His First Voyage,' published in 1849, is partly founded on
the experiences of this trip, which was undertaken with the full consent
of his relatives, and which seems to have satisfied his nautical ambition for
a time. As told in the book, Melville met with more than the usual
hardships of a sailor-boy's first venture. It does not seem difficult
in 'Redburn' to separate the author's actual experiences from those invented
by him, this being the case in some of his other writings.
A good part of the succeeding three years, from 1837 to 1840,
was occupied with school-teaching. While so engaged at
Greenbush, now East Albany, N.Y., he received the munificent salary of
'six dollars a quarter and board.' He taught for one term
at Pittsfield, Mass., 'boarding around' with the families of his pupils,
in true American fashion, and easily suppressing, on one memorable occasion,
the efforts of his larger scholars to inaugurate a rebellion by physical
force.
I fancy that it was the reading of Richard Henry Dana's
'Two Years Before the Mast' which revived the spirit of adventure
in Melville's breast. That book was published in 1840, and was
at once talked of everywhere. Melville must have read it at
the time, mindful of his own experience as a sailor. At any rate,
he once more signed a ship's articles, and on January 1, 1841, sailed from
New Bedford harbour in the whaler Acushnet, bound for the Pacific Ocean and
the sperm fishery. He has left very little direct information as to the
events of this eighteen months' cruise, although his whaling romance, 'Moby
Dick; or, the Whale,' probably gives many pictures of life on board the
Acushnet. In the present volume he confines himself to a general
account of the captain's bad treatment of the crew, and of
his non-fulfilment of agreements. Under these
considerations, Melville decided to abandon the vessel on reaching the
Marquesas Islands; and the narrative of Typee begins at this
point. However, he always recognised the immense influence the voyage had
had upon his career, and in regard to its results has said in 'Moby
Dick,'—
'If I shall ever deserve any real repute in that small but
high hushed world which I might not be unreasonably ambitious of;
if hereafter I shall do anything that on the whole a man might rather have
done than to have left undone . . . then here I prospectively ascribe all the
honour and the glory to whaling; for a whale-ship was my Yale College and my
Harvard.'
The record, then, of Melville's escape from the Dolly,
otherwise the Acushnet, the sojourn of his companion Toby and himself
in the Typee Valley on the island of Nukuheva, Toby's
mysterious disappearance, and Melville's own escape, is fully given in
the succeeding pages; and rash indeed would he be who would enter into a
descriptive contest with these inimitable pictures of aboriginal life in the
'Happy Valley.' So great an interest has always centred in the
character of Toby, whose actual existence has been questioned, that I am glad
to be able to declare him an authentic personage, by name Richard T.
Greene. He was enabled to discover himself again to Mr. Melville
through the publication of the present volume, and their acquaintance was
renewed, lasting for quite a long period. I have seen his
portrait—a rare old daguerrotype—and some of his letters to our author.
One of his children was named for the latter, but Mr. Melville lost trace
of him in recent years.
With the author's rescue from what Dr. T. M. Coan has styled
his 'anxious paradise,' Typee ends, and its sequel, 'Omoo,'
begins. Here, again, it seems wisest to leave the remaining adventures
in the South Seas to the reader's own discovery, simply stating that,
after a sojourn at the Society Islands, Melville shipped for Honolulu.
There he remained for four months, employed as a clerk. He joined the
crew of the American frigate United States, which reached Boston, stopping on
the way at one of the Peruvian ports, in October of 1844. Once more was
a narrative of his experiences to be preserved in 'White Jacket; or, the
World in a Man-of-War.' Thus, of Melville's four most important
books, three, Typee, 'Omoo,' and 'White-Jacket,' are directly
auto biographical, and 'Moby Dick' is partially so; while the
less important 'Redburn' is between the two classes in this respect.
Melville's other prose works, as will be shown, were, with
some exceptions, unsuccessful efforts at creative romance.
Whether our author entered on his whaling adventures in the
South Seas with a determination to make them available for
literary purposes, may never be certainly known. There was no
such elaborate announcement or advance preparation as in some
later cases. I am inclined to believe that the literary prospect
was an after-thought, and that this insured a freshness and enthusiasm of
style not otherwise to be attained. Returning to his mother's home at
Lansingburg, Melville soon began the writing of Typee, which was completed
by the autumn of 1845. Shortly after this his older brother, Gansevoort
Melville, sailed for England as secretary of legation to Ambassador McLane,
and the manuscript was intrusted to Gansevoort for submission to
John Murray. Its immediate acceptance and publication followed
in 1846. Typee was dedicated to Chief Justice Lemuel Shaw
of Massachusetts, an old friendship between the author's family and that
of Justice Shaw having been renewed about this time. Mr. Melville
became engaged to Miss Elizabeth Shaw, the only daughter of the Chief
Justice, and their marriage followed on August 4, 1847, in Boston.
The wanderings of our nautical Othello were thus brought to
a conclusion. Mr. and Mrs. Melville resided in New York City
until 1850, when they purchased a farmhouse at Pittsfield, their
farm adjoining that formerly owned by Mr. Melville's uncle, which had been
inherited by the latter's son. The new place was named 'Arrow Head,'
from the numerous Indian antiquities found in the neighbourhood. The
house was so situated as to command an uninterrupted view of Greylock
Mountain and the adjacent hills. Here Melville remained for thirteen years,
occupied with his writing, and managing his farm. An article in
Putnam's Monthly entitled 'I and My Chimney,' another called 'October
Mountain,' and the introduction to the 'Piazza Tales,' present
faithful pictures of Arrow Head and its surroundings. In a letter
to Nathaniel Hawthorne, given in 'Nathaniel Hawthorne and His Wife,' his
daily life is set forth. The letter is dated June 1, 1851.
'Since you have been here I have been building some shanties
of houses (connected with the old one), and likewise some shanties of
chapters and essays. I have been ploughing and sowing and raising and
printing and praying, and now begin to come out upon a less bristling time,
and to enjoy the calm prospect of things from a fair piazza at the north of
the old farmhouse here. Not entirely yet, though, am I without
something to be urgent with. The 'Whale' is only half through the press; for,
wearied with the long delays of the printers, and disgusted with the heat and
dust of the Babylonish brick-kiln of New York, I came back to the country
to feel the grass, and end the book reclining on it, if I may.'
Mr. Hawthorne, who was then living in the red cottage at
Lenox, had a week at Arrow Head with his daughter Una the
previous spring. It is recorded that the friends 'spent most of the
time in the barn, bathing in the early spring sunshine, which
streamed through the open doors, and talking philosophy.' According
to Mr. J. E. A. Smith's volume on the Berkshire Hills,
these gentlemen, both reserved in nature, though near neighbours and often
in the same company, were inclined to be shy of each other, partly, perhaps,
through the knowledge that Melville had written a very appreciative review of
'Mosses from an Old Manse' for the New York Literary World, edited by their
mutual friends, the Duyckincks. 'But one day,' writes Mr. Smith, 'it
chanced that when they were out on a picnic excursion, the two were
compelled by a thundershower to take shelter in a narrow recess of
the rocks of Monument Mountain. Two hours of this
enforced intercourse settled the matter. They learned so much of
each other's character, . . . that the most intimate friendship for the
future was inevitable.' A passage in Hawthorne's 'Wonder Book' is
noteworthy as describing the number of literary neighbors in
Berkshire:
'For my part, I wish I had Pegasus here at this moment,' said
the student. 'I would mount him forthwith, and gallop about
the country within a circumference of a few miles, making literary calls
on my brother authors. Dr. Dewey would be within ray reach, at the foot
of the Taconic. In Stockbridge, yonder, is Mr. James [G. P. R. James],
conspicuous to all the world on his mountain-pile of history and
romance. Longfellow, I believe, is not yet at the Oxbow, else the
winged horse would neigh at him. But here in Lenox I should find our most
truthful novelist [Miss Sedgwick], who has made the scenery and life of
Berkshire all her own. On the hither side of Pittsfield sits Herman
Melville, shaping out the gigantic conception of his 'White Whale,'
while the gigantic shadow of Greylock looms upon him from his
study window. Another bound of my flying steed would bring me to
the door of Holmes, whom I mention last, because Pegasus would certainly
unseat me the next minute, and claim the poet as his rider.'
While at Pittsfield, Mr. Melville was induced to enter
the lecture field. From 1857 to 1860 he filled many engagements
in the lyceums, chiefly speaking of his adventures in the
South Seas. He lectured in cities as widely apart as
Montreal, Chicago, Baltimore, and San Francisco, sailing to the
last-named place in 1860, by way of Cape Horn, on the Meteor, commanded,
by his younger brother, Captain Thomas Melville, afterward governor of the
'Sailor's Snug Harbor' at Staten Island, N.Y. Besides his voyage to San
Francisco, he had, in 1849 and 1856, visited England, the Continent, and the
Holy Land, partly to superintend the publication of English editions of his
works, and partly for recreation.
A pronounced feature of Melville's character was
his unwillingness to speak of himself, his adventures, or his writings in
conversation. He was, however, able to overcome this reluctance on the
lecture platform. Our author's tendency to philosophical discussion is
strikingly set forth in a letter from Dr. Titus Munson Coan to the latter's
mother, written while a student at Williams College over thirty years ago,
and fortunately preserved by her. Dr. Coan enjoyed the
friendship and confidence of Mr. Melville during most of his residence
in New York. The letter reads:
'I have made my first literary pilgrimage, a call upon
Herman Melville, the renowned author of Typee etc. He lives in
a spacious farmhouse about two miles from Pittsfield, a weary walk through
the dust. But it as well repaid. I introduced myself as a
Hawaiian-American, and soon found myself in full tide of talk, or rather of
monologue. But he would not repeat the experiences of which I had been
reading with rapture in his books. In vain I sought to hear of Typee
and those paradise islands, but he preferred to pour forth his philosophy and
his theories of life. The shade of Aristotle arose like a cold mist between
myself and Fayaway. We have quite enough of deep philosophy at
Williams College, and I confess I was disappointed in this trend of
the talk. But what a talk it was! Melville is transformed from
a Marquesan to a gypsy student, the gypsy element still remaining strong
within him. And this contradiction gives him the air of one who has
suffered from opposition, both literary and social. With his liberal views,
he is apparently considered by the good people of Pittsfield as little better
than a cannibal or a 'beach-comber.' His attitude seemed to me
something like that of Ishmael; but perhaps I judged hastily. I managed
to draw him out very freely on everything but the Marquesas Islands, and when
I left him he was in full tide of discourse on all things sacred and
profane. But he seems to put away the objective side of his life, and
to shut himself up in this cold north as a cloistered thinker.'
I have been told by Dr. Coan that his father, the Rev.
Titus Coan, of the Hawaiian Islands, personally visited the
Marquesas group, found the Typee Valley, and verified in all respects
the statements made in Typee. It is known that Mr. Melville
from early manhood indulged deeply in philosophical studies, and
his fondness for discussing such matters is pointed out by Hawthorne also,
in the 'English Note Books.' This habit increased as he advanced in
years, if possible.
The chief event of the residence in Pittsfield was the
completion and publication of 'Moby Dick; or, the Whale,' in 1851. How
many young men have been drawn to sea by this book is a question
of interest. Meeting with Mr. Charles Henry Webb ('John Paul')
the day after Mr. Melville's death, I asked him if he were not familiar
with that author's writings. He replied that 'Moby Dick' was
responsible for his three years of life before the mast when a lad, and added
that while 'gamming' on board another vessel he had once fallen in with a
member of the boat's crew which rescued Melville from his friendly
imprisonment among the Typees.
While at Pittsfield, besides his own family, Mr.
Melville's mother and sisters resided with him. As his four children
grew up he found it necessary to obtain for them better facilities
for study than the village school afforded; and so, several years after,
the household was broken up, and he removed with his wife and children to the
New York house that was afterwards his home. This house belonged to his
brother Allan, and was exchanged for the estate at Pittsfield. In
December, 1866, he was appointed by Mr. H. A. Smyth, a former travelling
companion in Europe, a district officer in the New York Custom House.
He held the position until 1886, preferring it to in-door clerical work,
and then resigned, the duties becoming too arduous for his
failing strength.
In addition to his philosophical studies, Mr. Melville was
much interested in all matters relating to the fine arts, and devoted most
of his leisure hours to the two subjects. A notable collection of
etchings and engravings from the old masters was gradually made by him, those
from Claude's paintings being a specialty. After he retired from the
Custom House, his tall, stalwart figure could be seen almost daily tramping
through the Fort George district or Central Park, his roving
inclination leading him to obtain as much out-door life as possible.
His evenings were spent at home with his books, his pictures, and
his family, and usually with them alone; for, in spite of the melodramatic
declarations of various English gentlemen, Melville's seclusion in his latter
years, and in fact throughout his life, was a matter of personal
choice. More and more, as he grew older, he avoided every action on his
part, and on the part of his family, that might tend to keep his name and
writings before the public. A few friends felt at liberty to visit
the recluse, and were kindly welcomed, but he himself sought no one. His
favorite companions were his grandchildren, with whom he delighted to pass
his time, and his devoted wife, who was a constant assistant and adviser in
his literary work, chiefly done at this period for his own amusement.
To her he addressed his last little poem, the touching 'Return of the Sire de
Nesle.' Various efforts were made by the New York literary colony to
draw him from his retirement, but without success. It has
been suggested that he might have accepted a magazine editorship, but this
is doubtful, as he could not bear business details or routine work of any
sort. His brother Allan was a New York lawyer, and until his death, in
1872, managed Melville's affairs with ability, particularly the literary
accounts.
During these later years he took great pleasure in a
friendly correspondence with Mr. W. Clark Russell. Mr. Russell
had taken many occasions to mention Melville's sea-tales, his interest
in them, and his indebtedness to them. The latter felt impelled
to write Mr. Russell in regard to one of his newly published novels, and
received in answer the following
letter:
July 21, 1886.
MY DEAR Mr. MELVILLE, Your letter has given me a very
great and singular pleasure. Your delightful books carry the
imagination into a maritime period so remote that, often as you have been
in my mind, I could never satisfy myself that you were still amongst the
living. I am glad, indeed, to learn from Mr. Toft that you are still
hale and hearty, and I do most heartily wish you many years yet of health and
vigor.
Your books I have in the American edition. I have
Typee, 'Omoo,' 'Redburn,' and that noble piece 'Moby Dick.' These
are all I have been able to obtain. There have been many editions
of your works in this country, particularly the lovely South Sea sketches;
but the editions are not equal to those of the American publishers. Your
reputation here is very great. It is hard to meet a man whose opinion
as a reader is worth leaving who does not speak of your works in such terms
as he might hesitate to employ, with all his patriotism, toward many renowned
English writers.
Dana is, indeed, great. There is nothing in literature
more remarkable than the impression produced by Dana's portraiture of the
homely inner life of a little brig's forecastle.
I beg that you will accept my thanks for the kindly spirit
in which you have read my books. I wish it were in my power to cross
the Atlantic, for you assuredly would be the first whom it would be my
happiness to visit.
The condition of my right hand obliges me to dictate this to
my son; but painful as it is to me to hold a pen, I cannot suffer this
letter to reach the hands of a man of so admirable genitis as Herman Melville
without begging him to believe me to be, with my own hand, his most
respectful and hearty admirer, W. Clark Russell.
It should be noted here that Melville's increased reputation
in England at the period of this letter was chiefly owing to a series of
articles on his work written by Mr. Russell. I am sorry to say that few
English papers made more than a passing reference to Melville's death.
The American press discussed his life and work in numerous and lengthy
reviews. At the same time, there always has been a steady sale of his
books in England, and some of them never have been out of print in that
country since the publication of Typee. One result of this
friendship between the two authors was the dedication of new volumes to
each other in highly complimentary terms—Mr. Melville's 'John Marr and
Other Sailors,' of which twenty-five copies only were printed, on the one
hand, and Mr. Russell's 'An Ocean Tragedy,' on the other, of which many
thousand have been printed, not to mention unnumbered pirated
copies.
Beside Hawthorne, Mr. Richard Henry Stoddard, of
American writers, specially knew and appreciated Herman Melville.
Mr. Stoddard was connected with the New York dock department at the time
of Mr. Melville's appointment to a custom-house position, and they at once
became acquainted. For a good many years, during the period in which
our author remained in seclusion, much that appeared in print in America
concerning Melville came from the pen of Mr. Stoddard. Nevertheless,
the sailor author's presence in New York was well known to the literary
guild. He was invited to join in all new movements, but as often
felt obliged to excuse himself from doing so. The present
writer lived for some time within a short distance of his house, but found
no opportunity to meet him until it became necessary to obtain his portrait
for an anthology in course of publication. The interview was brief, and the
interviewer could not help feeling although treated with pleasant courtesy,
that more important matters were in hand than the perpetuation of
a romancer's countenance to future generations; but a friendly family
acquaintance grew up from the incident, and will remain an abiding
memory.
Mr. Melville died at his home in New York City early on
the morning of September 28, 1891. His serious illness had lasted
a number of months, so that the end came as a release. True to
his ruling passion, philosophy had claimed him to the last, a set
of Schopenhauer's works receiving his attention when able to study; but
this was varied with readings in the 'Mermaid Series' of old plays, in which
he took much pleasure. His library, in addition to numerous works on
philosophy and the fine arts, was composed of standard books of all classes,
including, of course, a proportion of nautical literature. Especially
interesting are fifteen or twenty first editions of Hawthorne's books
inscribed to Mr. and Mrs. Melville by the author and his wife.
The immediate acceptance of Typee by John Murray was
followed by an arrangement with the London agent of an American
publisher, for its simultaneous publication in the United States.
I understand that Murray did not then publish fiction. At any rate,
the book was accepted by him on the assurance of Gansevoort Melville that it
contained nothing not actually experienced by his brother. Murray
brought it out early in 1846, in his Colonial and Home Library, as 'A
Narrative of a Four Months' Residence among the Natives of a Valley of the
Marquesas Islands; or, a Peep at Polynesian Life,' or, more briefly,
'Melville's Marquesas Islands.' It was issued in America with the
author's own title, Typee, and in the outward shape of a work
of fiction. Mr. Melville found himself famous at once.
Many discussions were carried on as to the genuineness of the
author's name and the reality of the events portrayed, but English
and American critics alike recognised the book's importance as
a contribution to literature.
Melville, in a letter to Hawthorne, speaks of himself as
having no development at all until his twenty-fifth year, the time of his
return from the Pacific; but surely the process of development must have been
well advanced to permit of so virile and artistic a creation as
Typee. While the narrative does not always run smoothly, yet the
style for the most part is graceful and alluring, so that we pass from one
scene of Pacific enchantment to another quite oblivious of the vast amount
of descriptive detail which is being poured out upon us. It is
the varying fortune of the hero which engrosses our attention.
We follow his adventures with breathless interest, or luxuriate with him
in the leafy bowers of the 'Happy Valley,' surrounded by joyous children of
nature. When all is ended, we then for the first time realise that we
know these people and their ways as if we too had dwelt among
them.
I do not believe that Typee will ever lose its position as
a classic of American Literature. The pioneer in South
Sea romance—for the mechanical descriptions of earlier voyagers are not
worthy of comparison—this book has as yet met with no superior, even in
French literature; nor has it met with a rival in any other language than the
French. The character of 'Fayaway,' and, no less, William S. Mayo's
'Kaloolah,' the enchanting dreams of many a youthful heart, will retain
their charm; and this in spite of endless variations by modern explorers
in the same domain. A faint type of both characters may be found in the
Surinam Yarico of Captain John Gabriel Stedman, whose 'Narrative of a Five
Years' Expedition' appeared in 1796.
Typee, as written, contained passages reflecting
with considerable severity on the methods pursued by missionaries in the
South Seas. The manuscript was printed in a complete form in England,
and created much discussion on this account, Melville being accused of
bitterness; but he asserted his lack of prejudice. The passages
referred to were omitted in the first and all subsequent American
editions. They have been restored in the present issue, which is
complete save for a few paragraphs excluded by written direction of the
author. I have, with the consent of his family, changed the long and
cumbersome sub-title of the book, calling it a 'Real-Romance of the South
Seas,' as best expressing its nature.
The success of his first volume encouraged Melville to proceed
in his work, and 'Omoo,' the sequel to Typee, appeared in England and
America in 1847. Here we leave, for the most part, the dreamy pictures
of island life, and find ourselves sharing the extremely realistic
discomforts of a Sydney whaler in the early forties. The rebellious crew's
experiences in the Society Islands are quite as realistic as events on board
ship and very entertaining, while the whimsical character, Dr. Long Ghost,
next to Captain Ahab in 'Moby Dick,' is Melville's most
striking delineation. The errors of the South Sea missions are
pointed out with even more force than in Typee, and it is a fact
that both these books have ever since been of the greatest value
to outgoing missionaries on account of the exact information contained in
them with respect to the islanders.
Melville's power in describing and investing with romance
scenes and incidents witnessed and participated in by himself, and
his frequent failure of success as an inventor of characters
and situations, were early pointed out by his critics. More
recently Mr. Henry S. Salt has drawn the same distinction very
carefully in an excellent article contributed to the Scottish Art
Review. In a prefatory note to 'Mardi' (1849), Melville declares that,
as his former books have been received as romance instead of reality, he
will now try his hand at pure fiction. 'Mardi' may be called a splendid
failure. It must have been soon after the completion of 'Omoo' that
Melville began to study the writings of Sir Thomas Browne. Heretofore
our author's style was rough in places, but marvellously simple and
direct. 'Mardi' is burdened with an over-rich diction, which Melville
never entirely outgrew. The scene of this romance, which opens well, is laid
in the South Seas, but everything soon becomes overdrawn and fantastical,
and the thread of the story loses itself in a mystical allegory.
'Redburn,' already mentioned, succeeded 'Mardi' in the same
year, and was a partial return to the author's earlier style.
In 'White-Jacket; or, the World in a Man-of-War' (1850), Melville almost
regained it. This book has no equal as a picture of life aboard a
sailing man-of-war, the lights and shadows of naval existence being well
contrasted.
With 'Moby Dick; or, the Whale' (1851), Melville reached
the topmost notch of his fame. The book represents, to a
certain extent, the conflict between the author's earlier and
later methods of composition, but the gigantic conception of the
'White Whale,' as Hawthorne expressed it, permeates the whole work,
and lifts it bodily into the highest domain of romance. 'Moby
Dick' contains an immense amount of information concerning the habits of
the whale and the methods of its capture, but this is characteristically
introduced in a way not to interfere with the narrative. The chapter
entitled 'Stubb Kills a Whale' ranks with the choicest examples of
descriptive literature.
'Moby Dick' appeared, and Melville enjoyed to the full
the enhanced reputation it brought him. He did not, however,
take warning from 'Mardi,' but allowed himself to plunge more deeply into
the sea of philosophy and fantasy.
'Pierre; or, the Ambiguities' (1852) was published, and
there ensued a long series of hostile criticisms, ending with a
severe, though impartial, article by Fitz-James O'Brien in
Putnam's Monthly. About the same time the whole stock of the
author's books was destroyed by fire, keeping them out of print at
a critical moment; and public interest, which until then had been on the
increase, gradually began to diminish.
After this Mr. Melville contributed several short stories
to Putnam's Monthly and Harper's Magazine. Those in the
former periodical were collected in a volume as Piazza Tales (1856);
and of these 'Benito Cereno' and 'The Bell Tower' are equal to his best
previous efforts.
'Israel Potter: His Fifty Years of Exile' (1855), first
printed as a serial in Putnam's, is an historical romance of the
American Revolution, based on the hero's own account of his adventures,
as given in a little volume picked up by Mr. Melville at
a book-stall. The story is well told, but the book is hardly worthy
of the author of Typee. 'The Confidence Man' (1857), his last serious
effort in prose fiction, does not seem to require criticism.
Mr. Melville's pen had rested for nearly ten years, when it
was again taken up to celebrate the events of the Civil War.
'Battle Pieces and Aspects of the War' appeared in 1866. Most of
these poems originated, according to the author, in an impulse imparted by
the fall of Richmond; but they have as subjects all the chief incidents of
the struggle. The best of them are 'The Stone Fleet,' 'In the Prison
Pen,' 'The College Colonel,' 'The March to the Sea,' 'Running the Batteries,'
and 'Sheridan at Cedar Creek.' Some of these had a wide circulation in the
press, and were preserved in various anthologies. 'Clarel, a Poem and
Pilgrimage in the Holy Land' (1876), is a long mystical poem requiring,
as some one has said, a dictionary, a cyclopaedia, and a copy of the Bible
for its elucidation. In the two privately printed volumes, the
arrangement of which occupied Mr. Melville during his last illness, there are
several fine lyrics. The titles of these books are, 'John Marr and
Other Sailors' (1888), and 'Timoleon' (1891).
There is no question that Mr. Melville's absorption
in philosophical studies was quite as responsible as the failure of his
later books for his cessation from literary productiveness. That he sometimes
realised the situation will be seen by a passage in 'Moby
Dick':
"Didn't I tell you so?" said Flask. "Yes, you'll
soon see this right whale's head hoisted up opposite that
parmacetti's."
"In good time Flask's saying proved true. As before, the
Pequod steeply leaned over towards the sperm whale's head, now, by
the counterpoise of both heads, she regained her own keel, though sorely
strained, you may well believe. So, when on one side you hoist in
Locke's head, you go over that way; but now, on the other side, hoist in
Kant's and you come back again; but in very poor plight. Thus, some
minds forever keep trimming boat. Oh, ye foolish! throw all these
thunderheads overboard, and then you will float right and
light."
Mr. Melville would have been more than mortal if he had
been indifferent to his loss of popularity. Yet he seemed
contented to preserve an entirely independent attitude, and to trust to
the verdict of the future. The smallest amount of activity
would have kept him before the public; but his reserve would not
permit this. That reinstatement of his reputation cannot be
doubted.
In the editing of this reissue of 'Melville's Works,' I have
been much indebted to the scholarly aid of Dr. Titus Munson Coan, whose
familiarity with the languages of the Pacific has enabled me to harmonise the
spelling of foreign words in Typee and 'Omoo,' though without changing the
phonetic method of printing adopted by Mr. Melville. Dr. Coan has also
been most helpful with suggestions in other directions. Finally, the
delicate fancy of La Fargehas supplemented the immortal pen-portrait
of the Typee maiden with a speaking impersonation of her beauty.
New York, June, 1892.
TYPEE
CHAPTER ONE
THE SEA—LONGINGS FOR SHORE—A LAND-SICK SHIP—DESTINATION OF
THE VOYAGERS—THE MARQUESAS—ADVENTURE OF A MISSIONARY'S WIFE AMONG THE
SAVAGES—CHARACTERISTIC ANECDOTE OF THE QUEEN OF NUKUHEVA
Six months at sea! Yes, reader, as I live, six months
out of sight of land; cruising after the sperm-whale beneath the scorching
sun of the Line, and tossed on the billows of the wide-rolling Pacific—the
sky above, the sea around, and nothing else! Weeks and weeks ago our
fresh provisions were all exhausted. There is not a sweet potato left;
not a single yam. Those glorious bunches of bananas, which once
decorated our stern and quarter-deck, have, alas, disappeared! and the
delicious oranges which hung suspended from our tops and stays—they,
too, are gone! Yes, they are all departed, and there is nothing
left us but salt-horse and sea-biscuit. Oh! ye state-room
sailors, who make so much ado about a fourteen-days' passage across
the Atlantic; who so pathetically relate the privations and hardships of
the sea, where, after a day of breakfasting, lunching, dining off five
courses, chatting, playing whist, and drinking champagne-punch, it was your
hard lot to be shut up in little cabinets of mahogany and maple, and sleep
for ten hours, with nothing to disturb you but 'those good-for-nothing tars,
shouting and tramping overhead',—what would ye say to our six months
out of sight of land?
Oh! for a refreshing glimpse of one blade of grass—for
a snuff at the fragrance of a handful of the loamy earth! Is
there nothing fresh around us? Is there no green thing to be
seen? Yes, the inside of our bulwarks is painted green; but what a
vile and sickly hue it is, as if nothing bearing even the semblance
of verdure could flourish this weary way from land. Even the
bark that once clung to the wood we use for fuel has been gnawed off and
devoured by the captain's pig; and so long ago, too, that the pig himself has
in turn been devoured.
There is but one solitary tenant in the chicken-coop, once a
gay and dapper young cock, bearing him so bravely among the coy
hens.
But look at him now; there he stands, moping all the day long
on that everlasting one leg of his. He turns with disgust from
the mouldy corn before him, and the brackish water in his
little trough. He mourns no doubt his lost companions,
literally snatched from him one by one, and never seen again. But his
days of mourning will be few for Mungo, our black cook, told me yesterday
that the word had at last gone forth, and poor Pedro's fate was sealed.
His attenuated body will be laid out upon the captain's table next Sunday,
and long before night will be buried with all the usual ceremonies beneath
that worthy individual's vest. Who would believe that there could be
any one so cruel as to long for the decapitation of the luckless Pedro; yet
the sailors pray every minute, selfish fellows, that the miserable fowl
may be brought to his end. They say the captain will never point the
ship for the land so long as he has in anticipation a mess of fresh
meat. This unhappy bird can alone furnish it; and when he is once
devoured, the captain will come to his senses. I wish thee no harm,
Pedro; but as thou art doomed, sooner or later, to meet the fate of all thy
race; and if putting a period to thy existence is to be the signal for our
deliverance, why—truth to speak—I wish thy throat cut this very moment;
for, oh! how I wish to see the living earth again! The old
ship herself longs to look out upon the land from her hawse-holes
once more, and Jack Lewis said right the other day when the captain found
fault with his steering.
'Why d'ye see, Captain Vangs,' says bold Jack, 'I'm as good
a helmsman as ever put hand to spoke; but none of us can steer the old
lady now. We can't keep her full and bye, sir; watch her ever so close,
she will fall off and then, sir, when I put the helm down so gently, and try
like to coax her to the work, she won't take it kindly, but will fall round
off again; and it's all because she knows the land is under the lee, sir, and
she won't go any more to windward.' Aye, and why should she,
Jack? didn't every one of her stout timbers grow on shore, and hasn't
she sensibilities; as well as we?
Poor old ship! Her very looks denote her desires!
how deplorably she appears! The paint on her sides, burnt up by
the scorching sun, is puffed out and cracked. See the weeds
she trails along with her, and what an unsightly bunch of those horrid
barnacles has formed about her stern-piece; and every time she rises on a
sea, she shows her copper torn away, or hanging in jagged
strips.
Poor old ship! I say again: for six months she has been
rolling and pitching about, never for one moment at rest. But
courage, old lass, I hope to see thee soon within a biscuit's toss of
the merry land, riding snugly at anchor in some green cove, and sheltered
from the boisterous winds.
.
. . . . .
'Hurra, my lads! It's a settled thing; next week we
shape our course to the Marquesas!' The Marquesas! What strange
visions of outlandish things does the very name spirit up!
Naked houris—cannibal banquets—groves of cocoanut—coral reefs—tattooed
chiefs—and bamboo temples; sunny valleys planted with
bread-fruit-trees—carved canoes dancing on the flashing blue waters—savage
woodlands guarded by horrible idols—HEATHENISH RITES AND HUMAN
SACRIFICES.
Such were the strangely jumbled anticipations that haunted
me during our passage from the cruising ground. I felt
an irresistible curiosity to see those islands which the olden voyagers
had so glowingly described.
The group for which we were now steering (although among
the earliest of European discoveries in the South Seas, having been first
visited in the year 1595) still continues to be tenanted by beings as strange
and barbarous as ever. The missionaries sent on a heavenly errand, had
sailed by their lovely shores, and had abandoned them to their idols of wood
and stone. How interesting the circumstances under which they were
discovered! In the watery path of Mendanna, cruising in quest of some
region of gold, these isles had sprung up like a scene of enchantment,
and for a moment the Spaniard believed his bright dream was
realized.
In honour of the Marquess de Mendoza, then viceroy of
Peru—under whose auspices the navigator sailed—he bestowed upon them
the name which denoted the rank of his patron, and gave to the world on
his return a vague and magnificent account of their beauty. But these
islands, undisturbed for years, relapsed into their previous obscurity; and
it is only recently that anything has been known concerning them. Once
in the course of a half century, to be sure, some adventurous rover would
break in upon their peaceful repose, and astonished at the unusual
scene, would be almost tempted to claim the merit of a new
discovery.
Of this interesting group, but little account has ever
been given, if we except the slight mention made of them in the sketches
of South-Sea voyages. Cook, in his repeated circumnavigations of the
globe, barely touched at their shores; and all that we know about them is
from a few general narratives.
Among these, there are two that claim particular notice.
Porter's 'Journal of the Cruise of the U.S. frigate Essex, in the
Pacific, during the late War', is said to contain some interesting
particulars concerning the islanders. This is a work, however, which I
have never happened to meet with; and Stewart, the chaplain of the American
sloop of war Vincennes, has likewise devoted a portion of his book, entitled
'A Visit to the South Seas', to the same subject.
Within the last few, years American and English vessels
engaged in the extensive whale fisheries of the Pacific have occasionally,
when short of provisions, put into the commodious harbour which there is in
one of the islands; but a fear of the natives, founded on the recollection of
the dreadful fate which many white men have received at their hands, has
deterred their crews from intermixing with the population sufficiently to
gain any insight into their peculiar customs and manners.
The Protestant Missions appear to have despaired of
reclaiming these islands from heathenism. The usage they have in every
case received from the natives has been such as to intimidate the boldest
of their number. Ellis, in his 'Polynesian Researches', gives some
interesting accounts of the abortive attempts made by the ''Tahiti Mission''
to establish a branch Mission upon certain islands of the group. A
short time before my visit to the Marquesas, a somewhat amusing incident took
place in connection with these efforts, which I cannot avoid
relating.
An intrepid missionary, undaunted by the ill-success that
had attended all previous endeavours to conciliate the savages,
and believing much in the efficacy of female influence, introduced among
them his young and beautiful wife, the first white woman who had ever visited
their shores. The islanders at first gazed in mute admiration at so
unusual a prodigy, and seemed inclined to regard it as some new
divinity. But after a short time, becoming familiar with its charming
aspect, and jealous of the folds which encircled its form, they sought to
pierce the sacred veil of calico in which it was enshrined, and in
the gratification of their curiosity so far overstepped the limits of good
breeding, as deeply to offend the lady's sense of decorum. Her sex
once ascertained, their idolatry was changed into contempt and there was no
end to the contumely showered upon her by the savages, who were exasperated
at the deception which they conceived had been practised upon them. To
the horror of her affectionate spouse, she was stripped of her garments, and
given to understand that she could no longer carry on her deceits
with impunity. The gentle dame was not sufficiently evangelical
to endure this, and, fearful of further improprieties, she forced her
husband to relinquish his undertaking, and together they returned to
Tahiti.
Not thus shy of exhibiting her charms was the Island
Queen herself, the beauteous wife of Movianna, the king of Nukuheva.
Between two and three years after the adventures recorded in this volume,
I chanced, while aboard of a man-of-war to touch at these islands. The
French had then held possession of the Marquesas some time, and already
prided themselves upon the beneficial effects of their jurisdiction, as
discernible in the deportment of the natives. To be sure, in one of
their efforts at reform they had slaughtered about a hundred and fifty of
them at Whitihoo—but let that pass. At the time I mention, the
French squadron was rendezvousing in the bay of Nukuheva, and during
an interview between one of their captains and our worthy Commodore, it
was suggested by the former, that we, as the flag-ship of the American
squadron, should receive, in state, a visit from the royal pair. The
French officer likewise represented, with evident satisfaction, that under
their tuition the king and queen had imbibed proper notions of their elevated
station, and on all ceremonious occasions conducted themselves with suitable
dignity. Accordingly, preparations were made to give their majesties
a reception on board in a style corresponding with their rank.
One bright afternoon, a gig, gaily bedizened with streamers,
was observed to shove off from the side of one of the French frigates, and
pull directly for our gangway. In the stern sheets reclined Mowanna and
his consort. As they approached, we paid them all the honours clue to
royalty; manning our yards, firing a salute, and making a prodigious
hubbub.
They ascended the accommodation ladder, were greeted by
the Commodore, hat in hand, and passing along the quarter-deck, the marine
guard presented arms, while the band struck up 'The King of the Cannibal
Islands'. So far all went well. The French officers grimaced and
smiled in exceedingly high spirits, wonderfully pleased with the discreet
manner in which these distinguished personages behaved
themselves.
Their appearance was certainly calculated to produce an
effect. His majesty was arrayed in a magnificent military uniform,
stiff with gold lace and embroidery, while his shaven crown was concealed
by a huge chapeau bras, waving with ostrich plumes. There was one
slight blemish, however, in his appearance. A broad patch of tattooing
stretched completely across his face, in a line with his eyes, making him
look as if he wore a huge pair of goggles; and royalty in goggles suggested
some ludicrous ideas. But it was in the adornment of the fair person of
his dark-complexioned spouse that the tailors of the fleet had evinced the
gaiety of their national taste. She was habited in a gaudy tissue of
scarlet cloth, trimmed with yellow silk, which, descending a little below the
knees, exposed to view her bare legs, embellished with spiral tattooing, and
somewhat resembling two miniature Trajan's columns. Upon her head was a
fanciful turban of purple velvet, figured with silver sprigs,
and surmounted by a tuft of variegated feathers.
The ship's company, crowding into the gangway to view the
sight, soon arrested her majesty's attention. She singled out
from their number an old salt, whose bare arms and feet, and
exposed breast, were covered with as many inscriptions in India ink as the
lid of an Egyptian sarcophagus. Notwithstanding all the sly hints and
remonstrances of the French officers, she immediately approached the man, and
pulling further open the bosom of his duck frock, and rolling up the leg of
his wide trousers, she gazed with admiration at the bright blue and vermilion
pricking thus disclosed to view. She hung over the fellow, caressing
him, and expressing her delight in a variety of wild exclamations
and gestures. The embarrassment of the polite Gauls at such
an unlooked-for occurrence may be easily imagined, but picture
their consternation, when all at once the royal lady, eager to display the
hieroglyphics on her own sweet form, bent forward for a moment, and turning
sharply round, threw up the skirt of her mantle and revealed a sight from
which the aghast Frenchmen retreated precipitately, and tumbling into their
boats, fled the scene of so shocking a catastrophe.
CHAPTER TWO
PASSAGE FROM THE CRUISING GROUND TO THE MARQUESAS—SLEEPY
TIMES ABOARD SHIP—SOUTH SEA SCENERY—LAND HO—THE FRENCH
SQUADRON DISCOVERED AT ANCHOR IN THE BAY OF NUKUHEVA—STRANGE
PILOT— ESCORT OF CANOES—A FLOTILLA OF COCOANUTS—SWIMMING
VISITORS—THE DOLLY BOARDED BY THEM—STATE OF AFFAIRS THAT ENSUE
I CAN never forget the eighteen or twenty days during which
the light trade-winds were silently sweeping us towards the islands.
In pursuit of the sperm whale, we had been cruising on the line some
twenty degrees to the westward of the Gallipagos; and all that we had to do,
when our course was determined on, was to square in the yards and keep the
vessel before the breeze, and then the good ship and the steady gale did the
rest between them. The man at the wheel never vexed the old lady with
any superfluous steering, but comfortably adjusting his limbs at
the tiller, would doze away by the hour. True to her work, the
Dolly headed to her course, and like one of those characters who always do
best when let alone, she jogged on her way like a veteran old sea-pacer as
she was.
What a delightful, lazy, languid time we had whilst we were
thus gliding along! There was nothing to be done; a circumstance
that happily suited our disinclination to do anything. We
abandoned the fore-peak altogether, and spreading an awning over
the forecastle, slept, ate, and lounged under it the live-long day.
Every one seemed to be under the influence of some narcotic. Even
the officers aft, whose duty required them never to be seated while keeping a
deck watch, vainly endeavoured to keep on their pins; and were obliged
invariably to compromise the matter by leaning up against the bulwarks, and
gazing abstractedly over the side. Reading was out of the question;
take a book in your hand, and you were asleep in an instant.
Although I could not avoid yielding in a great measure to
the general languor, still at times I contrived to shake off the spell,
and to appreciate the beauty of the scene around me. The sky presented
a clear expanse of the most delicate blue, except along the skirts of the
horizon, where you might see a thin drapery of pale clouds which never varied
their form or colour. The long, measured, dirge-like well of the
Pacific came rolling along, with its surface broken by little tiny waves,
sparkling in the sunshine. Every now and then a shoal of flying fish,
scared from the water under the bows, would leap into the air, and
fall the next moment like a shower of silver into the sea. Then
you would see the superb albicore, with his glittering sides,
sailing aloft, and often describing an arc in his descent, disappear
on the surface of the water. Far off, the lofty jet of the
whale might be seen, and nearer at hand the prowling shark,
that villainous footpad of the seas, would come skulking along, and, at a
wary distance, regard us with his evil eye. At times, some shapeless
monster of the deep, floating on the surface, would, as we approached, sink
slowly into the blue waters, and fade away from the sight. But the most
impressive feature of the scene was the almost unbroken silence that reigned
over sky and water. Scarcely a sound could be heard but the occasional
breathing of the grampus, and the rippling at the cut-water.
As we drew nearer the land, I hailed with delight the
appearance of innumerable sea-fowl. Screaming and whirling in
spiral tracks, they would accompany the vessel, and at times alight on our
yards and stays. That piratical-looking fellow, appropriately named the
man-of-war's-hawk, with his blood-red bill and raven plumage, would come
sweeping round us in gradually diminishing circles, till you could distinctly
mark the strange flashings of his eye; and then, as if satisfied with
his observation, would sail up into the air and disappear from
the view. Soon, other evidences of our vicinity to the land
were apparent, and it was not long before the glad announcement of
its being in sight was heard from aloft,—given with that
peculiar prolongation of sound that a sailor loves—'Land ho!'
The captain, darting on deck from the cabin, bawled lustily
for his spy-glass; the mate in still louder accents hailed the masthead
with a tremendous 'where-away?' The black cook thrust his woolly head
from the galley, and Boatswain, the dog, leaped up between the knight-heads,
and barked most furiously. Land ho! Aye, there it was. A hardly
perceptible blue irregular outline, indicating the bold contour of the lofty
heights of Nukuheva.
This island, although generally called one of the Marquesas,
is by some navigators considered as forming one of a distinct cluster,
comprising the islands of Ruhooka, Ropo, and Nukuheva; upon which three the
appellation of the Washington Group has been bestowed. They form a
triangle, and lie within the parallels of 8 degrees 38" and 9 degrees 32"
South latitude and 139 degrees 20" and 140 degrees 10" West longitude from
Greenwich. With how little propriety they are to be regarded as forming
a separate group will be at once apparent, when it is considered that
they lie in the immediate vicinity of the other islands, that is to say,
less than a degree to the northwest of them; that their inhabitants speak the
Marquesan dialect, and that their laws, religion, and general customs are
identical. The only reason why they were ever thus arbitrarily
distinguished may be attributed to the singular fact, that their existence
was altogether unknown to the world until the year 1791, when they were
discovered by Captain Ingraham, of Boston, Massachusetts, nearly two
centuries after the discovery of the adjacent islands by the agent of
the Spanish Viceroy. Notwithstanding this, I shall follow
the example of most voyagers, and treat of them as forming part and parcel
of Marquesas.
Nukuheva is the most important of these islands, being the
only one at which ships are much in the habit of touching, and
is celebrated as being the place where the adventurous Captain Porter
refitted his ships during the late war between England and the United States,
and whence he sallied out upon the large whaling fleet then sailing under the
enemy's flag in the surrounding seas. This island is about twenty miles
in length and nearly as many in breadth. It has three good harbours on
its coast; the largest and best of which is called by the people living in
its vicinity 'Taiohae', and by Captain Porter was denominated Massachusetts
Bay. Among the adverse tribes dwelling about the shores of the other
bays, and by all voyagers, it is generally known by the name bestowed upon
the island itself—Nukuheva. Its inhabitants have become
somewhat corrupted, owing to their recent commerce with Europeans, but
so far as regards their peculiar customs and general mode of life, they
retain their original primitive character, remaining very nearly in the same
state of nature in which they were first beheld by white men. The
hostile clans, residing in the more remote sections of the island, and very
seldom holding any communication with foreigners, are in every respect
unchanged from their earliest known condition.
In the bay of Nukuheva was the anchorage we desired to
reach. We had perceived the loom of the mountains about sunset; so
that after running all night with a very light breeze, we found ourselves
close in with the island the next morning, but as the bay we sought lay on
its farther side, we were obliged to sail some distance along the shore,
catching, as we proceeded, short glimpses of blooming valleys, deep glens,
waterfalls, and waving groves hidden here and there by projecting and rocky
headlands, every moment opening to the view some new and startling scene
of beauty.
Those who for the first time visit the South Sea, generally
are surprised at the appearance of the islands when beheld from
the sea. From the vague accounts we sometimes have of their
beauty, many people are apt to picture to themselves enamelled and
softly swelling plains, shaded over with delicious groves, and watered by
purling brooks, and the entire country but little elevated above the
surrounding ocean. The reality is very different; bold rock-bound
coasts, with the surf beating high against the lofty cliffs, and broken here
and there into deep inlets, which open to the view thickly-wooded valleys,
separated by the spurs of mountains clothed with tufted grass, and sweeping
down towards the sea from an elevated and furrowed interior, form
the principal features of these islands.
Towards noon we drew abreast the entrance to go into the harbor, and
at last we slowly swept by the intervening promontory, and entered the bay
of Nukuheva. No description can do justice to its beauty; but that
beauty was lost to me then, and I saw nothing but the tri-coloured flag of
France trailing over the stern of six vessels, whose black hulls and
bristling broadsides proclaimed their warlike character. There they
were, floating in that lovely bay, the green eminences of the shore looking
down so tranquilly upon them, as if rebuking the sternness of
their aspect. To my eye nothing could be more out of keeping than
the presence of these vessels; but we soon learnt what brought
them there. The whole group of islands had just been taken
possession of by Rear-Admiral Du Petit Thouars, in the name of
the invincible French nation.
This item of information was imparted to us by a
most extraordinary individual, a genuine South-Sea vagabond, who
came alongside of us in a whale-boat as soon as we entered the bay, and,
by the aid of some benevolent persons at the gangway, was assisted on board,
for our visitor was in that interesting stage of intoxication when a man is
amiable and helpless. Although he was utterly unable to stand erect or
to navigate his body across the deck, he still magnanimously proffered his
services to pilot the ship to a good and secure anchorage. Our captain,
however, rather distrusted his ability in this respect, and refused
to recognize his claim to the character he assumed; but our gentleman was
determined to play his part, for, by dint of much scrambling, he succeeded in
getting into the weather-quarter boat, where he steadied himself by holding
on to a shroud, and then commenced issuing his commands with amazing
volubility and very peculiar gestures. Of course no one obeyed his
orders; but as it was impossible to quiet him, we swept by the ships of
the squadron with this strange fellow performing his antics in full view
of all the French officers.
We afterwards learned that our eccentric friend had been
a lieutenant in the English navy; but having disgraced his flag by some
criminal conduct in one of the principal ports on the main, he had deserted
his ship, and spent many years wandering among the islands of the Pacific,
until accidentally being at Nukuheva when the French took possession of the
place, he had been appointed pilot of the harbour by the newly
constituted authorities.
As we slowly advanced up the bay, numerous canoes pushed off
from the surrounding shores, and we were soon in the midst of quite
a flotilla of them, their savage occupants struggling to get aboard of us,
and jostling one another in their ineffectual attempts. Occasionally
the projecting out-riggers of their slight shallops running foul of one
another, would become entangled beneath the water, threatening to capsize the
canoes, when a scene of confusion would ensue that baffles description.
Such strange outcries and passionate gesticulations I never certainly heard
or saw before. You would have thought the islanders were on
the point of flying at each other's throats, whereas they were
only amicably engaged in disentangling their boats.
Scattered here and there among the canoes might be seen
numbers of cocoanuts floating closely together in circular groups,
and bobbing up and down with every wave. By some inexplicable
means these cocoanuts were all steadily approaching towards the ship.
As I leaned curiously over the side, endeavouring to solve
their mysterious movements, one mass far in advance of the rest attracted
my attention. In its centre was something I could take for nothing else
than a cocoanut, but which I certainly considered one of the most
extraordinary specimens of the fruit I had ever seen. It kept twirling
and dancing about among the rest in the most singular manner, and as it drew
nearer I thought it bore a remarkable resemblance to the brown shaven skull
of one of the savages. Presently it betrayed a pair of eyes, and soon
I became aware that what I had supposed to have been one of the fruit was
nothing else than the head of an islander, who had adopted this singular
method of bringing his produce to market. The cocoanuts were all
attached to one another by strips of the husk, partly torn from the shell and
rudely fastened together. Their proprietor inserting his head into the
midst of them, impelled his necklace of cocoanuts through the water by
striking out beneath the surface with his feet.
I was somewhat astonished to perceive that among the number
of natives that surrounded us, not a single female was to be seen.
At that time I was ignorant of the fact that by the operation of the
'taboo' the use of canoes in all parts of the island is rigorously prohibited
to the entire sex, for whom it is death even to be seen entering one when
hauled on shore; consequently, whenever a Marquesan lady voyages by water,
she puts in requisition the paddles of her own fair body.
We had approached within a mile and a half perhaps of this
foot of the bay, when some of the islanders, who by this time had managed
to scramble aboard of us at the risk of swamping their canoes, directed our
attention to a singular commotion in the water ahead of the vessel. At
first I imagined it to be produced by a shoal of fish sporting on the
surface, but our savage friends assured us that it was caused by a shoal of
'whinhenies' (young girls), who in this manner were coming off from the
shore to welcome us. As they drew nearer, and I watched the rising
and sinking of their forms, and beheld the uplifted right arm
bearing above the water the girdle of tappa, and their long dark
hair trailing beside them as they swam, I almost fancied they could
be nothing else than so many mermaids—and very like mermaids they behaved
too.
We were still some distance from the beach, and under
slow headway, when we sailed right into the midst of these
swimming nymphs, and they boarded us at every quarter; many seizing
hold of the chain-plates and springing into the chains; others, at
the peril of being run over by the vessel in her course, catching at the
bob-stays, and wreathing their slender forms about the ropes, hung suspended
in the air. All of them at length succeeded in getting up the ship's
side, where they clung dripping with the brine and glowing from the bath,
their jet-black tresses streaming over their shoulders, and half enveloping
their otherwise naked forms. There they hung, sparkling with
savage vivacity, laughing gaily at one another, and chattering away
with infinite glee. Nor were they idle the while, for each
one performed the simple offices of the toilette for the other.
Their luxuriant locks, wound up and twisted into the smallest possible
compass, were freed from the briny element; the whole person carefully dried,
and from a little round shell that passed from hand to hand, anointed with a
fragrant oil: their adornments were completed by passing a few loose folds of
white tappa, in a modest cincture, around the waist. Thus arrayed they
no longer hesitated, but flung themselves lightly over the bulwarks,
and were quickly frolicking about the decks. Many of them
went forward, perching upon the headrails or running out upon
the bowsprit, while others seated themselves upon the taffrail,
or reclined at full length upon the boats. What a sight for
us bachelor sailors! How avoid so dire a temptation? For who
could think of tumbling these artless creatures overboard, when they had
swum miles to welcome us?
Their appearance perfectly amazed me; their extreme youth,
the light clear brown of their complexions, their delicate features, and
inexpressibly graceful figures, their softly moulded limbs, and free
unstudied action, seemed as strange as beautiful.
The Dolly was fairly captured; and never I will say was
vessel carried before by such a dashing and irresistible party
of boarders! The ship taken, we could not do otherwise than
yield ourselves prisoners, and for the whole period that she remained in
the bay, the Dolly, as well as her crew, were completely in the hands of the
mermaids.
In the evening after we had come to an anchor the deck
was illuminated with lanterns, and this picturesque band of
sylphs, tricked out with flowers, and dressed in robes of
variegated tappa, got up a ball in great style. These females
are passionately fond of dancing, and in the wild grace and spirit of the
style excel everything I have ever seen. The varied dances of the
Marquesan girls are beautiful in the extreme, but there is an abandoned
voluptuousness in their character which I dare not attempt to
describe.
CHAPTER THREE
SOME ACCOUNT OF THE LATE OPERATIONS OF THE FRENCH AT
THE MARQUESAS—PRUDENT CONDUCT OF THE ADMIRAL—SENSATION PRODUCED BY THE
ARRIVAL OF THE STRANGERS—THE FIRST HORSE SEEN BY
THE ISLANDERS—REFLECTIONS—MISERABLE SUBTERFUGE OF THE FRENCH—DIGRESSION
CONCERNING TAHITI—SEIZURE OF THE ISLAND BY THE ADMIRAL—SPIRITED CONDUCT OF
AN ENGLISH LADY
IT was in the summer of 1842 that we arrived at the islands;
the French had then held possession of them for several weeks.
During this time they had visited some of the principal places in the
group, and had disembarked at various points about five hundred troops.
These were employed in constructing works of defence, and otherwise providing
against the attacks of the natives, who at any moment might be expected to
break out in open hostility. The islanders looked upon the people who
made this cavalier appropriation of their shores with mingled feelings
of fear and detestation. They cordially hated them; but the impulses
of their resentment were neutralized by their dread of the floating
batteries, which lay with their fatal tubes ostentatiously pointed, not at
fortifications and redoubts, but at a handful of bamboo sheds, sheltered in a
grove of cocoanuts! A valiant warrior doubtless, but a prudent one
too, was this same Rear-Admiral Du Petit Thouars. Four heavy,
doublebanked frigates and three corvettes to frighten a parcel of naked
heathen into subjection! Sixty-eight pounders to demolish huts of
cocoanut boughs, and Congreve rockets to set on fire a few canoe
sheds!
At Nukuheva, there were about one hundred soldiers
ashore. They were encamped in tents, constructed of the old sails and
spare spars of the squadron, within the limits of a redoubt mounted with a
few nine-pounders, and surrounded with a fosse. Every other day, these
troops were marched out in martial array, to a level piece of ground in the
vicinity, and there for hours went through all sorts of military evolutions,
surrounded by flocks of the natives, who looked on with savage admiration at
the show, and as savage a hatred of the actors. A regiment of the
Old Guard, reviewed on a summer's day in the Champs Elysees, could not
have made a more critically correct appearance. The officers'
regimentals, resplendent with gold lace and embroidery as if purposely
calculated to dazzle the islanders, looked as if just unpacked from their
Parisian cases.
The sensation produced by the presence of the strangers had
not in the least subsided at the period of our arrival at
the islands. The natives still flocked in numbers about
the encampment, and watched with the liveliest curiosity everything that
was going forward. A blacksmith's forge, which had been set up in the
shelter of a grove near the beach, attracted so great a crowd, that it
required the utmost efforts of the sentries posted around to keep the
inquisitive multitude at a sufficient distance to allow the workmen to ply
their vocation. But nothing gained so large a share of admiration as a
horse, which had been brought from Valparaiso by the Achille, one of the
vessels of the squadron. The animal, a remarkably fine one, had been
taken ashore, and stabled in a hut of cocoanut boughs within the fortified
enclosure. Occasionally it was brought out, and, being gaily
caparisoned, was ridden by one of the officers at full speed over the hard
sand beach. This performance was sure to be hailed with loud plaudits,
and the 'puarkee nuee' (big hog) was unanimously pronounced by the islanders
to be the most extraordinary specimen of zoology that had ever come under
their observation.
The expedition for the occupation of the Marquesas had
sailed from Brest in the spring of 1842, and the secret of its destination
was solely in the possession of its commander. No wonder that those who
contemplated such a signal infraction of the rights of humanity should have
sought to veil the enormity from the eyes of the world. And yet,
notwithstanding their iniquitous conduct in this and in other matters, the
French have ever plumed themselves upon being the most humane and polished
of nations. A high degree of refinement, however, does not seem
to subdue our wicked propensities so much after all; and were civilization
itself to be estimated by some of its results, it would seem perhaps better
for what we call the barbarous part of the world to remain
unchanged.
One example of the shameless subterfuges under which the
French stand prepared to defend whatever cruelties they may
hereafter think fit to commit in bringing the Marquesan natives
into subjection is well worthy of being recorded. On some
flimsy pretext or other Mowanna, the king of Nukuheva, whom the
invaders by extravagant presents had cajoled over to their interests, and
moved about like a mere puppet, has been set up as the rightful sovereign
of the entire island—the alleged ruler by prescription of various clans, who
for ages perhaps have treated with each other as separate nations. To
reinstate this much-injured prince in the assumed dignities of his ancestors,
the disinterested strangers have come all the way from France: they are
determined that his title shall be acknowledged. If any tribe shall
refuse to recognize the authority of the French, by bowing down to
the laced chapeau of Mowanna, let them abide the consequences of their
obstinacy. Under cover of a similar pretence, have the outrages and
massacres at Tahiti the beautiful, the queen of the South Seas, been
perpetrated.
On this buccaneering expedition, Rear Admiral Du Petit
Thouars, leaving the rest of his squadron at the Marquesas,—which
had then been occupied by his forces about five months—set sail for the
doomed island in the Reine Blanche frigate. On his arrival, as an
indemnity for alleged insults offered to the flag of his country, he demanded
some twenty or thirty thousand dollars to be placed in his hands forthwith,
and in default of payment, threatened to land and take possession of the
place.
The frigate, immediately upon coming to an anchor, got springs
on her cables, and with her guns cast loose and her men at their quarters,
lay in the circular basin of Papeete, with her broadside bearing upon the
devoted town; while her numerous cutters, hauled in order alongside, were
ready to effect a landing, under cover of her batteries. She maintained
this belligerent attitude for several days, during which time a series of
informal negotiations were pending, and wide alarm spread over the
island. Many of the Tahitians were at first disposed to resort to arms,
and drive the invaders from their shores; but more pacific and feebler
counsels ultimately prevailed. The unfortunate queen Pomare, incapable
of averting the impending calamity, terrified at the arrogance of the
insolent Frenchman, and driven at last to despair, fled by night in a canoe
to Emio.
During the continuance of the panic there occurred an instance
of feminine heroism that I cannot omit to record.
In the grounds of the famous missionary consul, Pritchard,
then absent in London, the consular flag of Britain waved as usual during
the day, from a lofty staff planted within a few yards of the beach, and in
full view of the frigate. One morning an officer, at the head of a
party of men, presented himself at the verandah of Mr Pritchard's house, and
inquired in broken English for the lady his wife. The matron soon made
her appearance; and the polite Frenchman, making one of his best bows, and
playing gracefully with the aiguillettes that danced upon his
breast, proceeded in courteous accents to deliver his mission.
'The admiral desired the flag to be hauled down—hoped it would
be perfectly agreeable—and his men stood ready to perform
the duty.' 'Tell the Pirate your master,' replied the
spirited Englishwoman, pointing to the staff, 'that if he wishes to
strike these colours, he must come and perform the act himself; I
will suffer no one else to do it.' The lady then bowed haughtily
and withdrew into the house. As the discomfited officer
slowly walked away, he looked up to the flag, and perceived that the cord
by which it was elevated to its place, led from the top of the staff, across
the lawn, to an open upper window of the mansion, where sat the lady from
whom he had just parted, tranquilly engaged in knitting. Was that flag
hauled down? Mrs Pritchard thinks not; and Rear-Admiral Du Petit
Thouars is believed to be of the same opinion.
CHAPTER FOUR
STATE OF AFFAIRS ABOARD THE SHIP—CONTENTS OF HER
LARDER—LENGTH OF SOUTH SEAMEN'S VOYAGES—ACCOUNT OF A
FLYING WHALE-MAN—DETERMINATION TO LEAVE THE VESSEL—THE BAY
OF NUKUHEVA—THE TYPEES—INVASION OF THEIR VALLEY BY
PORTER— REFLECTIONS—GLEN OF TIOR—INTERVIEW BETWEEN THE OLD KING AND THE
FRENCH ADMIRAL
OUR ship had not been many days in the harbour of Nukuheva
before I came to the determination of leaving her. That my reasons
for resolving to take this step were numerous and weighty, may be inferred
from the fact that I chose rather to risk my fortunes among the savages of
the island than to endure another voyage on board the Dolly. To use the
concise, pointblank phrase of the sailors. I had made up my mind to
'run away'. Now as a meaning is generally attached to these two words
no way flattering to the individual to whom they are applied, it behoves me,
for the sake of my own character, to offer some explanation of my
conduct.
When I entered on board the Dolly, I signed as a matter of
course the ship's articles, thereby voluntarily engaging and
legally binding myself to serve in a certain capacity for the period
of the voyage; and, special considerations apart, I was of course bound to
fulfill the agreement. But in all contracts, if one party fail to
perform his share of the compact, is not the other virtually absolved from
his liability? Who is there who will not answer in the
affirmative?
Having settled the principle, then, let me apply it to
the particular case in question. In numberless instances had
not only the implied but the specified conditions of the articles been
violated on the part of the ship in which I served. The usage on board
of her was tyrannical; the sick had been inhumanly neglected; the provisions
had been doled out in scanty allowance; and her cruises were unreasonably
protracted. The captain was the author of the abuses; it was in vain to
think that he would either remedy them, or alter his conduct, which was
arbitrary and violent in the extreme. His prompt reply to all
complaints and remonstrances was—the butt-end of a handspike, so
convincingly administered as effectually to silence the aggrieved
party.
To whom could we apply for redress? We had left both law
and equity on the other side of the Cape; and unfortunately, with a very
few exceptions, our crew was composed of a parcel of dastardly and
meanspirited wretches, divided among themselves, and only united in enduring
without resistance the unmitigated tyranny of the captain. It would
have been mere madness for any two or three of the number, unassisted by the
rest, to attempt making a stand against his ill usage. They would only
have called down upon themselves the particular vengeance of this 'Lord of
the Plank', and subjected their shipmates to
additional hardships.
But, after all, these things could have been endured awhile,
had we entertained the hope of being speedily delivered from them by the
due completion of the term of our servitude. But what a dismal prospect
awaited us in this quarter! The longevity of Cape Horn whaling voyages
is proverbial, frequently extending over a period of four or five
years.
Some long-haired, bare-necked youths, who, forced by the
united influences of Captain Marryatt and hard times, embark at Nantucket
for a pleasure excursion to the Pacific, and whose anxious mothers provide
them, with bottled milk for the occasion, oftentimes return very respectable
middle-aged gentlemen.
The very preparations made for one of these expeditions
are enough to frighten one. As the vessel carries out no cargo,
her hold is filled with provisions for her own consumption.
The owners, who officiate as caterers for the voyage, supply the larder
with an abundance of dainties. Delicate morsels of beef and pork, cut
on scientific principles from every part of the animal, and of all
conceivable shapes and sizes, are carefully packed in salt, and stored away
in barrels; affording a never-ending variety in their different degrees of
toughness, and in the peculiarities of their saline properties. Choice
old water too, decanted into stout six-barrel-casks, and two pints
of which is allowed every day to each soul on board; together with ample
store of sea-bread, previously reduced to a state of petrifaction, with a
view to preserve it either from decay or consumption in the ordinary mode,
are likewise provided for the nourishment and gastronomic enjoyment of the
crew.
But not to speak of the quality of these articles of
sailors' fare, the abundance in which they are put onboard a
whaling vessel is almost incredible. Oftentimes, when we had occasion
to break out in the hold, and I beheld the successive tiers of casks and
barrels, whose contents were all destined to be consumed in due course by the
ship's company, my heart has sunk within me.
Although, as a general case, a ship unlucky in falling in
with whales continues to cruise after them until she has barely sufficient
provisions remaining to take her home, turning round then quietly and making
the best of her way to her friends, yet there are instances when even this
natural obstacle to the further prosecution of the voyage is overcome by
headstrong captains, who, bartering the fruits of their hard-earned
toils for a new supply of provisions in some of the ports of Chili
or Peru, begin the voyage afresh with unabated zeal
and perseverance. It is in vain that the owners write urgent
letters to him to sail for home, and for their sake to bring back
the ship, since it appears he can put nothing in her. Not he.
He has registered a vow: he will fill his vessel with good sperm oil, or
failing to do so, never again strike Yankee soundings.
I heard of one whaler, which after many years' absence was
given up for lost. The last that had been heard of her was a
shadowy report of her having touched at some of those unstable islands
in the far Pacific, whose eccentric wanderings are carefully noted in each
new edition of the South-Sea charts. After a long interval, however,
'The Perseverance'—for that was her name—was spoken somewhere in the
vicinity of the ends of the earth, cruising along as leisurely as ever, her
sails all bepatched and be quilted with rope-yarns, her spars fished with old
pipe staves, and her rigging knotted and spliced in every
possible direction. Her crew was composed of some twenty
venerable Greenwich-pensioner-looking old salts, who just managed to
hobble about deck. The ends of all the running ropes, with
the exception of the signal halyards and poop-down-haul, were rove through
snatch-blocks, and led to the capstan or windlass, so that not a yard was
braced or a sail set without the assistance of machinery.
Her hull was encrusted with barnacles, which completely
encased her. Three pet sharks followed in her wake, and every day
came alongside to regale themselves from the contents of the
cook's bucket, which were pitched over to them. A vast shoal of
bonetas and albicores always kept her company.
Such was the account I heard of this vessel and the
remembrance of it always haunted me; what eventually became of her I
never learned; at any rate: he never reached home, and I suppose she
is still regularly tacking twice in the twenty-four hours somewhere off
Desolate Island, or the Devil's-Tail Peak.
Having said thus much touching the usual length of these
voyages, when I inform the reader that ours had as it were just
commenced, we being only fifteen months out, and even at that time hailed
as a late arrival and boarded for news, he will readily perceive that
there was little to encourage one in looking forward to the future,
especially as I had always had a presentiment that we should make an
unfortunate voyage, and our experience so far had justified the
expectation.
I may here state, and on my faith as an honest man, that
though more than three years have elapsed since I left this same identical
vessel, she still continues; in the Pacific, and but a few days since I saw
her reported in the papers as having touched at the Sandwich Islands previous
to going on the coast of Japan.
But to return to my narrative. Placed in these
circumstances then, with no prospect of matters mending if I remained
aboard the Dolly, I at once made up my mind to leave her: to be sure
it was rather an inglorious thing to steal away privily from those at
whose hands I had received wrongs and outrages that I could not resent; but
how was such a course to be avoided when it was the only alternative left
me? Having made up my mind, I proceeded to acquire all the information
I could obtain relating to the island and its inhabitants, with a view of
shaping my plans of escape accordingly. The result of these inquiries
I will now state, in order that the ensuing narrative may be the better
understood.
The bay of Nukuheva in which we were then lying is an expanse
of water not unlike in figure the space included within the limits of a
horse-shoe. It is, perhaps, nine miles in circumference. You
approach it from the sea by a narrow entrance, flanked on each side by two
small twin islets which soar conically to the height of some five hundred
feet. From these the shore recedes on both hands, and describes a deep
semicircle.
From the verge of the water the land rises uniformly on
all sides, with green and sloping acclivities, until from gently rolling
hill-sides and moderate elevations it insensibly swells into lofty and
majestic heights, whose blue outlines, ranged all around, close in the
view. The beautiful aspect of the shore is heightened by deep and
romantic glens, which come down to it at almost equal distances, all
apparently radiating from a common centre, and the upper extremities of which
are lost to the eye beneath the shadow of the mountains. Down each of
these little valleys flows a clear stream, here and there assuming the form
of a slender cascade, then stealing invisibly along until it bursts upon
the sight again in larger and more noisy waterfalls, and at last demurely
wanders along to the sea.
The houses of the natives, constructed of the yellow
bamboo, tastefully twisted together in a kind of wicker-work, and thatched
with the long tapering leaves of the palmetto, are scattered irregularly
along these valleys beneath the shady branches of the cocoanut
trees.
Nothing can exceed the imposing scenery of this bay.
Viewed from our ship as she lay at anchor in the middle of the harbour,
it presented the appearance of a vast natural amphitheatre in decay, and
overgrown with vines, the deep glens that furrowed it's sides appearing like
enormous fissures caused by the ravages of time. Very often when lost
in admiration at its beauty, I have experienced a pang of regret that a scene
so enchanting should be hidden from the world in these remote seas, and
seldom meet the eyes of devoted lovers of nature.
Besides this bay the shores of the island are indented by
several other extensive inlets, into which descend broad and
verdant valleys. These are inhabited by as many distinct tribes
of savages, who, although speaking kindred dialects of a common language,
and having the same religion and laws, have from time immemorial waged
hereditary warfare against each other. The intervening mountains
generally two or three thousand feet above the level of the sea
geographically define the territories of each of these hostile tribes, who
never cross them, save on some expedition of war or plunder.
Immediately adjacent to Nukuheva, and only separated from it by the mountains
seen from the harbour, lies the lovely valley of Happar, whose inmates
cherish the most friendly relations with the inhabitants of Nukuheva.
On the other side of Happar, and closely adjoining it, is the magnificent
valley of the dreaded Typees, the unappeasable enemies of both these
tribes.
These celebrated warriors appear to inspire the other
islanders with unspeakable terrors. Their very name is a frightful
one; for the word 'Typee' in the Marquesan dialect signifies a lover of
human flesh. It is rather singular that the title should have been
bestowed upon them exclusively, inasmuch as the natives of all this group are
irreclaimable cannibals. The name may, perhaps, have been given to
denote the peculiar ferocity of this clan, and to convey a special stigma
along with it.
These same Typees enjoy a prodigious notoriety all over
the islands. The natives of Nukuheva would frequently recount
in pantomime to our ship's company their terrible feats, and would show
the marks of wounds they had received in desperate encounters with
them. When ashore they would try to frighten us by pointing, to one of
their own number, and calling him a Typee, manifesting no little surprise
that we did not take to our heels at so terrible an announcement. It
was quite amusing, too, to see with what earnestness they disclaimed all
cannibal propensities on their own part, while they denounced
their enemies—the Typees—as inveterate gourmandizers of human flesh; but
this is a peculiarity to which I shall hereafter have occasion to
allude.
Although I was convinced that the inhabitants of our bay were
as arrant cannibals as any of the other tribes on the island, still I
could not but feel a particular and most unqualified repugnance to the
aforesaid Typees. Even before visiting the Marquesas, I had heard from
men who had touched at the group on former voyages some revolting stories in
connection with these savages; and fresh in my remembrance was the adventure
of the master of the Katherine, who only a few months previous, imprudently
venturing into this bay in an armed boat for the purpose of barter,
was seized by the natives, carried back a little distance into
their valley, and was only saved from a cruel death by the intervention of
a young girl, who facilitated his escape by night along the beach to
Nukuheva.
I had heard too of an English vessel that many years ago,
after a weary cruise, sought to enter the bay of Nukuheva, and
arriving within two or three miles of the land, was met by a large
canoe filled with natives, who offered to lead the way to the place
of their destination. The captain, unacquainted with the
localities of the island, joyfully acceded to the proposition—the
canoe paddled on, the ship followed. She was soon conducted to
a beautiful inlet, and dropped her anchor in its waters beneath
the shadows of the lofty shore. That same night the
perfidious Typees, who had thus inveigled her into their fatal bay,
flocked aboard the doomed vessel by hundreds, and at a given
signal murdered every soul on board.
I shall never forget the observation of one of our crew as
we were passing slowly by the entrance of the bay in our way
to Nukuheva. As we stood gazing over the side at the
verdant headlands, Ned, pointing with his hand in the direction of
the treacherous valley, exclaimed, 'There—there's Typee. Oh,
the bloody cannibals, what a meal they'd make of us if we were to take it
into our heads to land! but they say they don't like sailor's flesh,
it's too salt. I say, maty, how should you like to be shoved ashore
there, eh?' I little thought, as I shuddered at the question, that in
the space of a few weeks I should actually be a captive in that self-same
valley.
The French, although they had gone through the ceremony
of hoisting their colours for a few hours at all the principal places of
the group, had not as yet visited the bay of Typee, anticipating a fierce
resistance on the part of the savages there, which for the present at least
they wished to avoid. Perhaps they were not a little influenced in the
adoption of this unusual policy from a recollection of the warlike reception
given by the Typees to the forces of Captain Porter, about the year 1814,
when that brave and accomplished officer endeavoured to subjugate the clan
merely to gratify the mortal hatred of his allies the Nukuhevas and
Happars.
On that occasion I have been told that a considerable
detachment of sailors and marines from the frigate Essex, accompanied by
at least two thousand warriors of Happar and Nukuheva, landed in boats and
canoes at the head of the bay, and after penetrating a little distance into
the valley, met with the stoutest resistance from its inmates.
Valiantly, although with much loss, the Typees disputed every inch of ground,
and after some hard fighting obliged their assailants to retreat and abandon
their design of conquest.
The invaders, on their march back to the sea, consoled
themselves for their repulse by setting fire to every house and temple
in their route; and a long line of smoking ruins defaced the once-smiling
bosom of the valley, and proclaimed to its pagan inhabitants the spirit that
reigned in the breasts of Christian soldiers. Who can wonder at the
deadly hatred of the Typees to all foreigners after such unprovoked
atrocities?
Thus it is that they whom we denominate 'savages' are made
to deserve the title. When the inhabitants of some
sequestered island first descry the 'big canoe' of the European
rolling through the blue waters towards their shores, they rush down
to the beach in crowds, and with open arms stand ready to embrace the
strangers. Fatal embrace! They fold to their bosom the vipers
whose sting is destined to poison all their joys; and the instinctive feeling
of love within their breast is soon converted into the bitterest
hate.
The enormities perpetrated in the South Seas upon some of
the inoffensive islanders will nigh pass belief. These things
are seldom proclaimed at home; they happen at the very ends of the earth;
they are done in a corner, and there are none to reveal them. But there
is, nevertheless, many a petty trader that has navigated the Pacific whose
course from island to island might be traced by a series of cold-blooded
robberies, kidnappings, and murders, the iniquity of which might be
considered almost sufficient to sink her guilty timbers to the bottom of the
sea.
Sometimes vague accounts of such thing's reach our firesides,
and we coolly censure them as wrong, impolitic, needlessly severe, and
dangerous to the crews of other vessels. How different is our tone when
we read the highly-wrought description of the massacre of the crew of the
Hobomak by the Feejees; how we sympathize for the unhappy victims, and with
what horror do we regard the diabolical heathens, who, after all, have but
avenged the unprovoked injuries which they have received. We
breathe nothing but vengeance, and equip armed vessels to
traverse thousands of miles of ocean in order to execute
summary punishment upon the offenders. On arriving at their
destination, they burn, slaughter, and destroy, according to the tenor
of written instructions, and sailing away from the scene of devastation,
call upon all Christendom to applaud their courage and their
justice.
How often is the term 'savages' incorrectly applied!
None really deserving of it were ever yet discovered by voyagers or
by travellers. They have discovered heathens and barbarians whom
by horrible cruelties they have exasperated into savages. It may
be asserted without fear of contradictions that in all the cases
of outrages committed by Polynesians, Europeans have at some time or other
been the aggressors, and that the cruel and bloodthirsty disposition of some
of the islanders is mainly to be ascribed to the influence of such
examples.
But to return. Owing to the mutual hostilities of the
different tribes I have mentioned, the mountainous tracts which
separate their respective territories remain altogether uninhabited;
the natives invariably dwelling in the depths of the valleys, with a view
of securing themselves from the predatory incursions of their enemies, who
often lurk along their borders, ready to cut off any imprudent straggler, or
make a descent upon the inmates of some sequestered habitation. I
several times met with very aged men, who from this cause had never passed
the confines of their native vale, some of them having never even ascended
midway up the mountains in the whole course of their lives, and
who, accordingly had little idea of the appearance of any other part of
the island, the whole of which is not perhaps more than sixty miles in
circuit. The little space in which some of these clans pass away their
days would seem almost incredible.
The glen of the Tior will furnish a curious illustration of
this.
The inhabited part is not more than four miles in length,
and varies in breadth from half a mile to less than a quarter.
The rocky vine-clad cliffs on one side tower almost perpendicularly from
their base to the height of at least fifteen hundred feet; while across the
vale—in striking contrast to the scenery opposite—grass-grown elevations
rise one above another in blooming terraces. Hemmed in by these
stupendous barriers, the valley would be altogether shut out from the rest of
the world, were it not that it is accessible from the sea at one end, and
by a narrow defile at the other.
The impression produced upon the mind, when I first visited
this beautiful glen, will never be obliterated.
I had come from Nukuheva by water in the ship's boat, and when
we entered the bay of Tior it was high noon. The heat had
been intense, as we had been floating upon the long smooth swell of the
ocean, for there was but little wind. The sun's rays had expended all
their fury upon us; and to add to our discomfort, we had omitted to supply
ourselves with water previous to starting. What with heat and thirst
together, I became so impatient to get ashore, that when at last we glided
towards it, I stood up in the bow of the boat ready for a spring. As
she shot two-thirds of her length high upon the beach, propelled by three or
four strong strokes of the oars, I leaped among a parcel of juvenile
savages, who stood prepared to give us a kind reception; and with them
at my heels, yelling like so many imps, I rushed forward across the open
ground in the vicinity of the sea, and plunged, diver fashion, into the
recesses of the first grove that offered.
What a delightful sensation did I experience! I felt as
if floating in some new element, while all sort of gurgling, trickling,
liquid sounds fell upon my ear. People may say what they will about the
refreshing influences of a coldwater bath, but commend me when in a
perspiration to the shade baths of Tior, beneath the cocoanut trees, and
amidst the cool delightful atmosphere which surrounds them.
How shall I describe the scenery that met my eye, as I looked
out from this verdant recess! The narrow valley, with its steep
and close adjoining sides draperied with vines, and arched overhead with a
fret-work of interlacing boughs, nearly hidden from view by masses of leafy
verdure, seemed from where I stood like an immense arbour disclosing its
vista to the eye, whilst as I advanced it insensibly widened into the
loveliest vale eye ever beheld.
It so happened that the very day I was in Tior the
French admiral, attended by all the boats of his squadron, came down
in state from Nukuheva to take formal possession of the place.
He remained in the valley about two hours, during which time he had a
ceremonious interview with the king. The patriarch-sovereign of Tior
was a man very far advanced in years; but though age had bowed his form and
rendered him almost decrepid, his gigantic frame retained its original
magnitude and grandeur of appearance.
He advanced slowly and with evident pain, assisting his
tottering steps with the heavy warspear he held in his hand, and
attended by a group of grey-bearded chiefs, on one of whom he
occasionally leaned for support. The admiral came forward with head
uncovered and extended hand, while the old king saluted him by a
stately flourish of his weapon. The next moment they stood side by
side, these two extremes of the social scale,—the polished,
splendid Frenchman, and the poor tattooed savage. They were both tall
and noble-looking men; but in other respects how
strikingly contrasted! Du Petit Thouars exhibited upon his person all
the paraphernalia of his naval rank. He wore a richly
decorated admiral's frock-coat, a laced chapeau bras, and upon his
breast were a variety of ribbons and orders; while the simple
islander, with the exception of a slight cincture about his loins,
appeared in all the nakedness of nature.
At what an immeasurable distance, thought I, are these two
beings removed from each other. In the one is shown the result of
long centuries of progressive Civilization and refinement, which
have gradually converted the mere creature into the semblance of all that
is elevated and grand; while the other, after the lapse of the same period,
has not advanced one step in the career of improvement, 'Yet, after all,'
quoth I to myself, 'insensible as he is to a thousand wants, and removed from
harassing cares, may not the savage be the happier man of the two?'
Such were the thoughts that arose in my mind as I gazed upon the
novel spectacle before me. In truth it was an impressive one,
and little likely to be effaced. I can recall even now with
vivid distinctness every feature of the scene. The umbrageous
shades where the interview took place—the glorious tropical
vegetation around—the picturesque grouping of the mingled throng
of soldiery and natives—and even the golden-hued bunch of bananas that I
held in my hand at the time, and of which I occasionally partook while making
the aforesaid philosophical reflections.
CHAPTER FIVE
THOUGHTS PREVIOUS TO ATTEMPTING AN ESCAPE—TOBY, A FELLOW
SAILOR, AGREES TO SHARE THE ADVENTURE—LAST NIGHT ABOARD THE
SHIP
HAVING fully resolved to leave the vessel clandestinely,
and having acquired all the knowledge concerning the bay that I
could obtain under the circumstances in which I was placed, I
now deliberately turned over in my mind every plan to escape
that suggested itself, being determined to act with all possible prudence
in an attempt where failure would be attended with so many disagreeable
consequences. The idea of being taken and brought back ignominiously to
the ship was so inexpressibly repulsive to me, that I was determined by no
hasty and imprudent measures to render such an event probable.
I knew that our worthy captain, who felt, such a
paternal solicitude for the welfare of his crew, would not
willingly consent that one of his best hands should encounter the perils
of a sojourn among the natives of a barbarous island; and I was certain
that in the event of my disappearance, his fatherly anxiety would prompt him
to offer, by way of a reward, yard upon yard of gaily printed calico for my
apprehension. He might even have appreciated my services at the value
of a musket, in which case I felt perfectly certain that the whole population
of the bay would be immediately upon my track, incited by the prospect of
so magnificent a bounty.
Having ascertained the fact before alluded to, that
the islanders,—from motives of precaution, dwelt altogether in the depths
of the valleys, and avoided wandering about the more elevated portions of the
shore, unless bound on some expedition of war or plunder, I concluded that if
I could effect unperceived a passage to the mountain, I might easily remain
among them, supporting myself by such fruits as came in my way until
the sailing of the ship, an event of which I could not fail to
be immediately apprised, as from my lofty position I should command a view
of the entire harbour.
The idea pleased me greatly. It seemed to combine a
great deal of practicability with no inconsiderable enjoyment in a
quiet way; for how delightful it would be to look down upon the detested
old vessel from the height of some thousand feet, and contrast the verdant
scenery about me with the recollection of her narrow decks and gloomy
forecastle! Why, it was really refreshing even to think of it; and so I
straightway fell to picturing myself seated beneath a cocoanut tree on the
brow of the mountain, with a cluster of plantains within easy
reach, criticizing her nautical evolutions as she was working her way out
of the harbour.
To be sure there was one rather unpleasant drawback to
these agreeable anticipations—the possibility of falling in with
a foraging party of these same bloody-minded Typees, whose appetites,
edged perhaps by the air of so elevated a region, might prompt them to devour
one. This, I must confess, was a most disagreeable view of the
matter.
Just to think of a party of these unnatural gourmands taking
it into their heads to make a convivial meal of a poor devil, who would
have no means of escape or defence: however, there was no help for it.
I was willing to encounter some risks in order to accomplish my object, and
counted much upon my ability to elude these prowling cannibals amongst the
many coverts which the mountains afforded. Besides, the chances were
ten to one in my favour that they would none of them quit their own
fastnesses.
I had determined not to communicate my design of withdrawing
from the vessel to any of my shipmates, and least of all to solicit any
one to accompany me in my flight. But it so happened one night, that
being upon deck, revolving over in my mind various plans of escape, I
perceived one of the ship's company leaning over the bulwarks, apparently
plunged in a profound reverie. He was a young fellow about my own age,
for whom I had all along entertained a great regard; and Toby, such was the
name by which he went among us, for his real name he would never tell us,
was every way worthy of it. He was active, ready and obliging,
of dauntless courage, and singularly open and fearless in the expression
of his feelings. I had on more than one occasion got him out of scrapes
into which this had led him; and I know not whether it was from this cause,
or a certain congeniality of sentiment between us, that he had always shown a
partiality for my society. We had battled out many a long watch
together, beguiling the weary hours with chat, song, and story,
mingled with a good many imprecations upon the hard destiny it seemed
our common fortune to encounter.
Toby, like myself, had evidently moved in a different sphere
of life, and his conversation at times betrayed this, although he was
anxious to conceal it. He was one of that class of rovers you sometimes
meet at sea, who never reveal their origin, never allude to home, and go
rambling over the world as if pursued by some mysterious fate they cannot
possibly elude.
There was much even in the appearance of Toby calculated to
draw me towards him, for while the greater part of the crew were as coarse
in person as in mind, Toby was endowed with a remarkably prepossessing
exterior. Arrayed in his blue frock and duck trousers, he was as smart
a looking sailor as ever stepped upon a deck; he was singularly small and
slightly made, with great flexibility of limb. His naturally dark
complexion had been deepened by exposure to the tropical sun, and a mass of
jetty locks clustered about his temples, and threw a darker shade into his
large black eyes. He was a strange wayward being, moody, fitful, and
melancholy—at times almost morose. He had a quick and fiery temper
too, which, when thoroughly roused, transported him into a state bordering on
delirium.
It is strange the power that a mind of deep passion has
over feebler natures. I have seen a brawny, fellow, with no lack
of ordinary courage, fairly quail before this slender stripling, when in
one of his curious fits. But these paroxysms seldom occurred, and in
them my big-hearted shipmate vented the bile which more calm-tempered
individuals get rid of by a continual pettishness at trivial
annoyances.
No one ever saw Toby laugh. I mean in the hearty
abandonment of broad-mouthed mirth. He did smile sometimes, it is true;
and there was a good deal of dry, sarcastic humour about him, which told
the more from the imperturbable gravity of his tone and manner.
Latterly I had observed that Toby's melancholy had
greatly increased, and I had frequently seen him since our arrival at
the island gazing wistfully upon the shore, when the remainder of the crew
would be rioting below. I was aware that he entertained a cordial
detestation of the ship, and believed that, should a fair chance of escape
present itself, he would embrace it willingly.
But the attempt was so perilous in the place where we then
lay, that I supposed myself the only individual on board the ship who was
sufficiently reckless to think of it. In this, however, I was
mistaken.
When I perceived Toby leaning, as I have mentioned, against
the bulwarks and buried in thought, it struck me at once that the subject
of his meditations might be the same as my own. And if it be so,
thought I, is he not the very one of all my shipmates whom I would choose:
for the partner of my adventure? and why should I not have some comrade
with me to divide its dangers and alleviate its hardships? Perhaps I
might be obliged to lie concealed among the mountains for weeks. In
such an event what a solace would a companion be?
These thoughts passed rapidly through my mind, and I wondered
why I had not before considered the matter in this light. But it
was not too late. A tap upon the shoulder served to rouse Toby
from his reverie; I found him ripe for the enterprise, and a very
few words sufficed for a mutual understanding between us. In
an hour's time we had arranged all the preliminaries, and decided upon our
plan of action. We then ratified our engagement with an affectionate
wedding of palms, and to elude suspicion repaired each to his hammock, to
spend the last night on board the Dolly.
The next day the starboard watch, to which we both belonged,
was to be sent ashore on liberty; and, availing ourselves of
this opportunity, we determined, as soon after landing as possible,
to separate ourselves from the rest of the men without exciting their
suspicions, and strike back at once for the mountains. Seen from the
ship, their summits appeared inaccessible, but here and there sloping spurs
extended from them almost into the sea, buttressing the lofty elevations with
which they were connected, and forming those radiating valleys I have before
described. One of these ridges, which appeared more practicable than
the rest, we determined to climb, convinced that it would conduct us to
the heights beyond. Accordingly, we carefully observed its
bearings and locality from the ship, so that when ashore we should run
no chance of missing it.
In all this the leading object we had in view was to
seclude ourselves from sight until the departure of the vessel; then
to take our chance as to the reception the Nukuheva natives might give us;
and after remaining upon the island as long as we found our stay agreeable,
to leave it the first favourable opportunity that offered.
CHAPTER SIX
A SPECIMEN OF NAUTICAL ORATORY—CRITICISMS OF THE
SAILORS—THE STARBOARD WATCH ARE GIVEN A HOLIDAY—THE ESCAPE TO THE
MOUNTAINS
EARLY the next morning the starboard watch were mustered upon
the quarter-deck, and our worthy captain, standing in the cabin gangway,
harangued us as follows:
'Now, men, as we are just off a six months' cruise, and have
got through most all our work in port here, I suppose you want to
go ashore. Well, I mean to give your watch liberty today, so you may
get ready as soon all you please, and go; but understand this, I am going to
give you liberty because I suppose you would growl like so many old quarter
gunners if I didn't; at the same time, if you'll take my advice, every
mother's son of you will stay aboard and keep out of the way of the bloody
cannibals altogether. Ten to one, men, if you go ashore, you will get
into some infernal row, and that will be the end of you; for if
those tattooed scoundrels get you a little ways back into their valleys,
they'll nab you—that you may be certain of. Plenty of white men have
gone ashore here and never been seen any more. There was the old Dido,
she put in here about two years ago, and sent one watch off on liberty; they
never were heard of again for a week—the natives swore they didn't know
where they were—and only three of them ever got back to the ship again, and
one with his face damaged for life, for the cursed heathens tattooed
a broad patch clean across his figure-head. But it will be no
use talking to you, for go you will, that I see plainly; so all I have to
say is, that you need not blame me if the islanders make a meal of you.
You may stand some chance of escaping them though, if you keep close about
the French encampment,—and are back to the ship again before sunset.
Keep that much in your mind, if you forget all the rest I've been saying to
you. There, go forward: bear a hand and rig yourselves, and stand by
for a call. At two bells the boat will be manned to take you off,
and the Lord have mercy on you!'
Various were the emotions depicted upon the countenances of
the starboard watch whilst listening to this address; but on
its conclusion there was a general move towards the forecastle, and we
soon were all busily engaged in getting ready for the holiday so auspiciously
announced by the skipper. During these preparations his harangue was
commented upon in no very measured terms; and one of the party, after
denouncing him as a lying old son of a seacook who begrudged a fellow a few
hours' liberty, exclaimed with an oath, 'But you don't bounce me out of
my liberty, old chap, for all your yarns; for I would go ashore if every
pebble on the beach was a live coal, and every stick a gridiron, and the
cannibals stood ready to broil me on landing.'
The spirit of this sentiment was responded to by all hands,
and we resolved that in spite of the captain's croakings we would make a
glorious day of it.
But Toby and I had our own game to play, and we availed
ourselves of the confusion which always reigns among a ship's
company preparatory to going ashore, to confer together and complete
our arrangements. As our object was to effect as rapid a flight
as possible to the mountains, we determined not to encumber ourselves with
any superfluous apparel; and accordingly, while the rest were rigging
themselves out with some idea of making a display, we were content to put on
new stout duck trousers, serviceable pumps, and heavy Havre-frocks, which
with a Payta hat completed our equipment.
When our shipmates wondered at this, Toby exclaimed in his
odd grave way that the rest might do, as they liked, but that he for one
preserved his go-ashore traps for the Spanish main, where the tie of a
sailor's neckerchief might make some difference; but as for a parcel of
unbreeched heathen, he wouldn't go to the bottom of his chest for any of
them, and was half disposed to appear among them in buff himself. The
men laughed at what they thought was one of his strange conceits, and so we
escaped suspicion.
It may appear singular that we should have been thus on our
guard with our own shipmates; but there were some among us who, had they
possessed the least inkling of our project, would, for a paltry hope of
reward, have immediately communicated it to the captain.
As soon as two bells were struck, the word was passed for
the liberty-men to get into the boat. I lingered behind in
the forecastle a moment to take a parting glance at its familiar features,
and just as I was about to ascend to the deck my eye happened to light on the
bread-barge and beef-kid, which contained the remnants of our last hasty
meal. Although I had never before thought of providing anything in the
way of food for our expedition, as I fully relied upon the fruits of the
island to sustain us wherever we might wander, yet I could not resist the
inclination I felt to provide luncheon from the relics before me.
Accordingly I took a double handful of those small, broken, flinty bits of
biscuit which generally go by the name of 'midshipmen's nuts', and thrust
them into the bosom of my frock in which same simple receptacle I had
previously stowed away several pounds of tobacco and a few yards of
cotton cloth—articles with which I intended to purchase the good-will of
the natives, as soon as we should appear among them after the departure of
our vessel.
This last addition to my stock caused a considerable
protuberance in front, which I abated in a measure by shaking the bits of
bread around my waist, and distributing the plugs of tobacco among
the folds of the garment.
Hardly had I completed these arrangements when my name was
sung out by a dozen voices, and I sprung upon the deck, where I found all
the party in the boat, and impatient to shove off. I dropped over the side
and seated myself with the rest of the watch in the stern sheets, while the
poor larboarders shipped their oars, and commenced pulling us
ashore.
This happened to be the rainy season at the islands, and the
heavens had nearly the whole morning betokened one of those heavy
showers which during this period so frequently occur. The large drops
fell bubbling into the water shortly after our leaving the ship, and
by the time we had affected a landing it poured down in torrents. We fled
for shelter under cover of an immense canoe-house which stood hard by the
beach, and waited for the first fury of the storm to pass.
It continued, however, without cessation; and the
monotonous beating of the rain over head began to exert a drowsy
influence upon the men, who, throwing themselves here and there upon
the large war-canoes, after chatting awhile, all fell asleep.
This was the opportunity we desired, and Toby and I
availed ourselves of it at once by stealing out of the canoe-house
and plunging into the depths of an extensive grove that was in
its rear. After ten minutes' rapid progress we gained an open
space from which we could just descry the ridge we intended to
mount looming dimly through the mists of the tropical shower, and distant
from us, as we estimated, something more than a mile. Our direct
course towards it lay through a rather populous part of the bay; but desirous
as we were of evading the natives and securing an unmolested retreat to the
mountains, we determined, by taking a circuit through some extensive
thickets, to avoid their vicinity altogether.
The heavy rain that still continued to fall without
intermission favoured our enterprise, as it drove the islanders into
their houses, and prevented any casual meeting with them. Our
heavy frocks soon became completely saturated with water, and by
their weight, and that of the articles we had concealed beneath them, not
a little impeded our progress. But it was no time to pause when at any
moment we might be surprised by a body of the savages, and forced at the very
outset to relinquish our undertaking.
Since leaving the canoe-house we had scarcely exchanged a
single syllable with one another; but when we entered a second
narrow opening in the wood, and again caught sight of the ridge before us,
I took Toby by the arm, and pointing along its sloping outline to the lofty
heights at its extremity, said in a low tone, 'Now, Toby, not a word, nor a
glance backward, till we stand on the summit of yonder mountain—so no more
lingering but let us shove ahead while we can, and in a few hours' time we
may laugh aloud. You are the lightest and the nimblest, so lead
on, and I will follow.'
'All right, brother,' said Toby, 'quick's our play; only
lets keep close together, that's all;' and so saying with a bound like a
young roe, he cleared a brook which ran across our path, and rushed forward
with a quick step.
When we arrived within a short distance of the ridge, we
were stopped by a mass of tall yellow reeds, growing together as thickly
as they could stand, and as tough and stubborn as so many rods of steel; and
we perceived, to our chagrin, that they extended midway up the elevation we
proposed to ascend.
For a moment we gazed about us in quest of a more
practicable route; it was, however, at once apparent that there was
no resource but to pierce this thicket of canes at all hazards.
We now reversed our order of march, I, being the heaviest, taking the
lead, with a view of breaking a path through the obstruction, while Toby fell
into the rear.
Two or three times I endeavoured to insinuate myself between
the canes, and by dint of coaxing and bending them to make some progress;
but a bull-frog might as well have tried to work a passage through the teeth
of a comb, and I gave up the attempt in despair.
Half wild with meeting an obstacle we had so little
anticipated, I threw myself desperately against it, crushing to the ground
the canes with which I came in contact, and, rising to my feet
again, repeated the action with like effect. Twenty minutes of
this violent exercise almost exhausted me, but it carried us some way into
the thicket; when Toby, who had been reaping the benefit of my labours by
following close at my heels, proposed to become pioneer in turn, and
accordingly passed ahead with a view of affording me a respite from my
exertions. As however with his slight frame he made but bad work of it,
I was soon obliged to resume my old place again. On we toiled, the
perspiration starting from our bodies in floods, our limbs torn and
lacerated with the splintered fragments of the broken canes, until we
had proceeded perhaps as far as the middle of the brake, when suddenly it
ceased raining, and the atmosphere around us became close and sultry beyond
expression. The elasticity of the reeds quickly recovering from the
temporary pressure of our bodies, caused them to spring back to their
original position; so that they closed in upon us as we advanced, and
prevented the circulation of little air which might otherwise have reached
us. Besides this, their great height completely shut us out from
the view of surrounding objects, and we were not certain but that we might
have been going all the time in a wrong direction.
Fatigued with my long-continued efforts, and panting for
breath, I felt myself completely incapacitated for any further
exertion. I rolled up the sleeve of my frock, and squeezed the
moisture it contained into my parched mouth. But the few drops I
managed to obtain gave me little relief, and I sank down for a moment with
a sort of dogged apathy, from which I was aroused by Toby, who had devised
a plan to free us from the net in which we had become entangled.
He was laying about him lustily with his sheath-knive,
lopping the canes right and left, like a reaper, and soon made quite
a clearing around us. This sight reanimated me; and seizing my
own knife, I hacked and hewed away without mercy. But alas!
the farther we advanced the thicker and taller, and apparently the more
interminable, the reeds became.
I began to think we were fairly snared, and had almost made up
my mind that without a pair of wings we should never be able to escape
from the toils; when all at once I discerned a peep of daylight through the
canes on my right, and, communicating the joyful tidings to Toby, we both
fell to with fresh spirit, and speedily opening the passage towards it we
found ourselves clear of perplexities, and in the near vicinity of the
ridge. After resting for a few moments we began the ascent, and after a
little vigorous climbing found ourselves close to its summit.
Instead however of walking along its ridge, where we should have been
in full view of the natives in the vales beneath, and at a point where
they could easily intercept us were they so inclined, we cautiously advanced
on one side, crawling on our hands and knees, and screened from observation
by the grass through which we glided, much in the fashion of a couple of
serpents. After an hour employed in this unpleasant kind of locomotion,
we started to our feet again and pursued our way boldly along the crest
of the ridge.
This salient spur of the lofty elevations that encompassed
the bay rose with a sharp angle from the valleys at its base,
and presented, with the exception of a few steep acclivities,
the appearance of a vast inclined plane, sweeping down towards the sea
from the heights in the distance. We had ascended it near the place of
its termination and at its lowest point, and now saw our route to the
mountains distinctly defined along its narrow crest, which was covered with a
soft carpet of verdure, and was in many parts only a few feet
wide.
Elated with the success which had so far attended our
enterprise, and invigorated by the refreshing atmosphere we now inhaled,
Toby and I in high spirits were making our way rapidly along the ridge,
when suddenly from the valleys below which lay on either side of us we heard
the distant shouts of the natives, who had just descried us, and to whom our
figures, brought in bold relief against the sky, were plainly
revealed.
Glancing our eyes into these valleys, we perceived their
savage inhabitants hurrying to and fro, seemingly under the influence
of some sudden alarm, and appearing to the eye scarcely bigger than so
many pigmies; while their white thatched dwellings, dwarfed by the distance,
looked like baby-houses. As we looked down upon the islanders from our
lofty elevation, we experienced a sense of security; feeling confident that,
should they undertake a pursuit, it would, from the start we now had, prove
entirely fruitless, unless they followed us into the mountains, where
we knew they cared not to venture.
However, we thought it as well to make the most of our time;
and accordingly, where the ground would admit of it, we ran swiftly along
the summit of the ridge, until we were brought to a stand by a steep cliff,
which at first seemed to interpose an effectual barrier to our farther
advance. By dint of much hard scrambling however, and at some risk to
our necks, we at last surmounted it, and continued our fight with unabated
celerity.
We had left the beach early in the morning, and after
an uninterrupted, though at times difficult and dangerous ascent, during
which we had never once turned our faces to the sea, we found ourselves,
about three hours before sunset, standing on the top of what seemed to be the
highest land on the island, an immense overhanging cliff composed of basaltic
rocks, hung round with parasitical plants. We must have been more than
three thousand feet above the level of the sea, and the scenery
viewed from this height was magnificent.
The lonely bay of Nukuheva, dotted here and there with the
black hulls of the vessels composing the French squadron, lay reposing at
the base of a circular range of elevations, whose verdant sides, perforated
with deep glens or diversified with smiling valleys, formed altogether the
loveliest view I ever beheld, and were I to live a hundred years, I shall
never forget the feeling of admiration which I then experienced.
CHAPTER SEVEN
THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN—DISAPPOINTMENT—INVENTORY
OF ARTICLES BROUGHT FROM THE SHIP—DIVISION OF THE STOCK
OF BREAD—APPEARANCE OF THE INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND—A DISCOVERY—A RAVINE
AND WATERFALLS—A SLEEPLESS NIGHT—FURTHER DISCOVERIES—MY ILLNESS—A
MARQUESAN LANDSCAPE
MY curiosity had been not a little raised with regard to
the description of country we should meet on the other side of
the mountains; and I had supposed, with Toby, that immediately on gaining
the heights we should be enabled to view the large bays of Happar and Typee
reposing at our feet on one side, in the same way that Nukuheva lay spread
out below on the other. But here we were disappointed. Instead of
finding the mountain we had ascended sweeping down in the opposite direction
into broad and capacious valleys, the land appeared to retain its
general elevation, only broken into a series of ridges and
inter-vales which so far as the eye could reach stretched away from us,
with their precipitous sides covered with the brightest verdure,
and waving here and there with the foliage of clumps of woodland; among
which, however, we perceived none of those trees upon whose fruit we had
relied with such certainty.
This was a most unlooked-for discovery, and one that promised
to defeat our plans altogether, for we could not think of descending the
mountain on the Nukuheva side in quest of food. Should we for this
purpose be induced to retrace our steps, we should run no small chance of
encountering the natives, who in that case, if they did nothing worse to us,
would be certain to convey us back to the ship for the sake of the reward in
calico and trinkets, which we had no doubt our skipper would hold out to them
as an inducement to our capture.
What was to be done? The Dolly would not sail perhaps
for ten days, and how were we to sustain life during this period?
I bitterly repented our improvidence in not providing ourselves, as we
easily might have done, with a supply of biscuits. With a rueful visage
I now bethought me of the scanty handful of bread I had stuffed into the
bosom of my frock, and felt somewhat desirous to ascertain what part of it
had weathered the rather rough usage it had experienced in ascending the
mountain. I accordingly proposed to Toby that we should enter into a
joint examination of the various articles we had brought from the
ship.
With this intent we seated ourselves upon the grass; and a
little curious to see with what kind of judgement my companion had filled
his frock—which I remarked seemed about as well lined as my own—I requested
him to commence operations by spreading out its contents.
Thrusting his hand, then, into the bosom of this
capacious receptacle, he first brought to light about a pound of
tobacco, whose component parts still adhered together, the whole
outside being covered with soft particles of sea-bread. Wet
and dripping, it had the appearance of having been just recovered from the
bottom of the sea. But I paid slight attention to a substance of so
little value to us in our present situation, as soon as I perceived the
indications it gave of Toby's foresight in laying in a supply of food for the
expedition.
I eagerly inquired what quantity he had brought with him,
when rummaging once more beneath his garment, he produced a small handful
of something so soft, pulpy, and discoloured, that for a few moments he was
as much puzzled as myself to tell by what possible instrumentality such a
villainous compound had become engendered in his bosom. I can only
describe it as a hash of soaked bread and bits of tobacco, brought to a
doughy consistency by the united agency of perspiration and rain. But
repulsive as it might otherwise have been, I now regarded it as an
invaluable treasure, and proceeded with great care to transfer
this paste-like mass to a large leaf which I had plucked from a
bush beside me. Toby informed me that in the morning he had
placed two whole biscuits in his bosom, with a view of munching
them, should he feel so inclined, during our flight. These were
now reduced to the equivocal substance which I had just placed on
the leaf.
Another dive into the frock brought to view some four or
five yards of calico print, whose tasteful pattern was rather disfigured
by the yellow stains of the tobacco with which it had been brought in
contact. In drawing this calico slowly from his bosom inch by inch,
Toby reminded me of a juggler performing the feat of the endless
ribbon. The next cast was a small one, being a sailor's little 'ditty
bag', containing needles, thread, and other sewing utensils, then came a
razor-case, followed by two or three separate plugs of negro-head, which were
fished up from the bottom of the now empty receptacle. These various
matters, being inspected, I produced the few things which I had myself
brought.
As might have been anticipated from the state of my
companion's edible supplies, I found my own in a deplorable condition,
and diminished to a quantity that would not have formed half a
dozen mouthfuls for a hungry man who was partial enough to tobacco not to
mind swallowing it. A few morsels of bread, with a fathom or two of
white cotton cloth, and several pounds of choice pigtail, composed the extent
of my possessions.
Our joint stock of miscellaneous articles were now made up
into a compact bundle, which it was agreed we should carry alternately.
But the sorry remains of the biscuit were not to be disposed of so
summarily: the precarious circumstances in which we were placed made us
regard them as something on which very probably, depended the fate of our
adventure. After a brief discussion, in which we both of us expressed
our resolution of not descending into the bay until the ship's departure, I
suggested to my companion that little of it as there was, we should divide
the bread into six equal portions, each of which should be a
day's allowance for both of us. This proposition he assented to; so
I took the silk kerchief from my neck, and cutting it with my knife into
half a dozen equal pieces, proceeded to make an exact division.
At first, Toby with a degree of fastidiousness that seemed to
me ill-timed, was for picking out the minute particles of tobacco with
which the spongy mass was mixed; but against this proceeding I protested, as
by such an operation we must have greatly diminished its
quantity.
When the division was accomplished, we found that a
day's allowance for the two was not a great deal more than what
a table-spoon might hold. Each separate portion we
immediately rolled up in the bit of silk prepared for it, and joining
them all together into a small package, I committed them, with
solemn injunctions of fidelity, to the custody of Toby. For
the remainder of that day we resolved to fast, as we had been fortified by
a breakfast in the morning; and now starting again to our feet, we looked
about us for a shelter during the night, which, from the appearance of the
heavens, promised to be a dark and tempestuous one.
There was no place near us which would in any way answer
our purpose, so turning our backs upon Nukuheva, we commenced exploring
the unknown regions which lay upon the other side of the
mountain.
In this direction, as far as our vision extended, not a sign
of life, nor anything that denoted even the transient residence of man,
could be seen. The whole landscape seemed one unbroken solitude, the
interior of the island having apparently been untenanted since the morning of
the creation; and as we advanced through this wilderness, our voices sounded
strangely in our ears, as though human accents had never before disturbed
the fearful silence of the place, interrupted only by the low murmurings
of distant waterfalls.
Our disappointment, however, in not finding the various
fruits with which we had intended to regale ourselves during our stay
in these wilds, was a good deal lessened by the consideration that from
this very circumstance we should be much less exposed to a casual meeting
with the savage tribes about us, who we knew always dwelt beneath the shadows
of those trees which supplied them with food.
We wandered along, casting eager glances into every bush
we passed, until just as we had succeeded in mounting one of the many
ridges that intersected the ground, I saw in the grass before me something
like an indistinctly traced footpath, which appeared to lead along the top of
the ridge, and to descend—with it into a deep ravine about half a mile in
advance of us.
Robinson Crusoe could not have been more startled at
the footprint in the sand than we were at this unwelcome discovery.
My first impulse was to make as rapid a retreat as possible, and bend our
steps in some other direction; but our curiosity to see whither this path
might lead, prompted us to pursue it. So on we went, the track becoming
more and more visible the farther we proceeded, until it conducted us to the
verge of the ravine, where it abruptly terminated.
'And so,' said Toby, peering down into the chasm, 'everyone
that travels this path takes a jump here, eh?'
'Not so,' said I, 'for I think they might manage to
descend without it; what say you,—shall we attempt the feat?'
'And what, in the name of caves and coal-holes, do you expect
to find at the bottom of that gulf but a broken neck—why it looks blacker
than our ship's hold, and the roar of those waterfalls down there would
batter one's brains to pieces.'
'Oh, no, Toby,' I exclaimed, laughing; 'but there's something
to be seen here, that's plain, or there would have been no path, and I am
resolved to find out what it is.'
'I will tell you what, my pleasant fellow,' rejoined
Toby quickly, 'if you are going to pry into everything you meet with here
that excites your curiosity, you will marvellously soon get knocked on the
head; to a dead certainty you will come bang upon a party of these savages in
the midst of your discovery-makings, and I doubt whether such an event would
particularly delight you, just take my advice for once, and let us 'bout ship
and steer in some other direction; besides, it's getting late and we ought
to be mooring ourselves for the night.'
'That is just the thing I have been driving at,' replied I;
'and I am thinking that this ravine will exactly answer our purpose, for
it is roomy, secluded, well watered, and may shelter us from the
weather.'
'Aye, and from sleep too, and by the same token will give us
sore throats, and rheumatisms into the bargain,' cried Toby, with evident
dislike at the idea.
'Oh, very well then, my lad,' said I, 'since you will
not accompany me, here I go alone. You will see me in the
morning;' and advancing to the edge of the cliff upon which we had
been standing, I proceeded to lower myself down by the tangled roots which
clustered about all the crevices of the rock. As I had anticipated,
Toby, in spite of his previous remonstrances, followed my example, and
dropping himself with the activity of a squirrel from point to point, he
quickly outstripped me and effected a landing at the bottom before I had
accomplished two-thirds of the descent.
The sight that now greeted us was one that will ever be
vividly impressed upon my mind. Five foaming streams, rushing through
as many gorges, and swelled and turbid by the recent rains,
united together in one mad plunge of nearly eighty feet, and fell
with wild uproar into a deep black pool scooped out of the gloomy looking
rocks that lay piled around, and thence in one collected body dashed down a
narrow sloping channel which seemed to penetrate into the very bowels of the
earth. Overhead, vast roots of trees hung down from the sides of the
ravine dripping with moisture, and trembling with the concussions produced by
the fall. It was now sunset, and the feeble uncertain light
that found its way into these caverns and woody depths heightened their
strange appearance, and reminded us that in a short time we should find
ourselves in utter darkness.
As soon as I had satisfied my curiosity by gazing at this
scene, I fell to wondering how it was that what we had taken for a
path should have conducted us to so singular a place, and began to suspect
that after all I might have been deceived in supposing it to have been a
trick formed by the islanders. This was rather an agreeable reflection
than otherwise, for it diminished our dread of accidentally meeting with any
of them, and I came to the conclusion that perhaps we could not have selected
a more secure hiding-place than this very spot we had so accidentally hit
upon.
Toby agreed with me in this view of the matter, and
we immediately began gathering together the limbs of trees which
lay scattered about, with the view of constructing a temporary hut for the
night. This we were obliged to build close to the foot of the cataract,
for the current of water extended very nearly to the sides of the
gorge. The few moments of light that remained we employed in covering
our hut with a species of broad-bladed grass that grew in every fissure of
the ravine. Our hut, if it deserved to be called one, consisted of six
or eight of the straightest branches we could find laid obliquely against
the steep wall of rock, with their lower ends within a foot of
the stream. Into the space thus covered over we managed to
crawl, and dispose our wearied bodies as best we could.
Shall I ever forget that horrid night! As for poor Toby,
I could scarcely get a word out of him. It would have been
some consolation to have heard his voice, but he lay shivering
the live-long night like a man afflicted with the palsy, with his knees
drawn up to his head, while his back was supported against the dripping side
of the rock. During this wretched night there seemed nothing wanting to
complete the perfect misery of our condition. The rain descended in
such torrents that our poor shelter proved a mere mockery. In vain did
I try to elude the incessant streams that poured upon me; by protecting one
part I only exposed another, and the water was continually finding
some new opening through which to drench us.
I have had many a ducking in the course of my life, and
in general cared little about it; but the accumulated horrors of that
night, the deathlike coldness of the place, the appalling darkness and the
dismal sense of our forlorn condition, almost unmanned me.
It will not be doubted that the next morning we were
early risers, and as soon as I could catch the faintest glimpse
of anything like daylight I shook my companion by the arm, and told him it
was sunrise. Poor Toby lifted up his head, and after a moment's pause
said, in a husky voice, 'Then, shipmate, my toplights have gone out, for it
appears darker now with my eyes open that it did when they were
shut.'
'Nonsense!' exclaimed I; 'You are not awake yet.'
'Awake!' roared Toby in a rage, 'awake! You mean to
insinuate I've been asleep, do you? It is an insult to a man to suppose
he could sleep in such an infernal place as this.'
By the time I had apologized to my friend for having
misconstrued his silence, it had become somewhat more light, and we
crawled out of our lair. The rain had ceased, but everything around
us was dripping with moisture. We stripped off our
saturated garments, and wrung them as dry as we could. We contrived
to make the blood circulate in our benumbed limbs by rubbing
them vigorously with our hands; and after performing our ablutions in the
stream, and putting on our still wet clothes, we began to think it advisable
to break our long fast, it being now twenty-four hours since we had tasted
food.
Accordingly our day's ration was brought out, and
seating ourselves on a detached fragment of rock, we proceeded to
discuss it. First we divided it into two equal portions, and
carefully rolling one of them up for our evening's repast, divided
the remainder again as equally as possible, and then drew lots for the
first choice. I could have placed the morsel that fell to my share upon
the tip of my finger; but notwithstanding this I took care that it should be
full ten minutes before I had swallowed the last crumb. What a true
saying it is that 'appetite furnishes the best sauce.' There was a
flavour and a relish to this small particle of food that under other
circumstances it would have been impossible for the most delicate viands to
have imparted. A copious draught of the pure water which flowed
at our feet served to complete the meal, and after it we rose sensibly
refreshed, and prepared for whatever might befall us.
We now carefully examined the chasm in which we had passed
the night. We crossed the stream, and gaining the further side
of the pool I have mentioned, discovered proofs that the spot must have
been visited by some one but a short time previous to our arrival.
Further observation convinced us that it had been regularly frequented, and,
as we afterwards conjectured from particular indications, for the purpose of
obtaining a certain root, from which the natives obtained a kind of
ointment.
These discoveries immediately determined us to abandon a
place which had presented no inducement for us to remain, except
the promise of security; and as we looked about us for the means
of ascending again into the upper regions, we at last found a practicable
part of the rock, and half an hour's toil carried us to the summit of the
same cliff from which the preceding evening we had descended.
I now proposed to Toby that instead of rambling about the
island, exposing ourselves to discovery at every turn, we should
select some place as our fixed abode for as long a period as our
food should hold out, build ourselves a comfortable hut, and be as prudent
and circumspect as possible. To all this my companion assented, and we
at once set about carrying the plan into execution.
With this view, after exploring without success a little
glen near us, we crossed several of the ridges of which I have
before spoken; and about noon found ourselves ascending a long
and gradually rising slope, but still without having discovered any place
adapted to our purpose. Low and heavy clouds betokened an approaching
storm, and we hurried on to gain a covert in a clump of thick bushes, which
appeared to terminate the long ascent. We threw ourselves under the lee
of these bushes, and pulling up the long grass that grew around, covered
ourselves completely with it, and awaited the shower.
But it did not come as soon as we had expected, and before
many minutes my companion was fast asleep, and I was rapidly falling into
the same state of happy forgetfulness. Just at this juncture, however,
down came the rain with the violence that put all thoughts of slumber to
flight. Although in some measure sheltered, our clothes soon became as
wet as ever; this, after all the trouble we had taken to dry them, was
provoking enough: but there was no help for it; and I recommend all
adventurous youths who abandon vessels in romantic islands during the
rainy season to provide themselves with umbrellas.
After an hour or so the shower passed away. My companion
slept through it all, or at least appeared so to do; and now that it was
over I had not the heart to awaken him. As I lay on my back completely
shrouded with verdure, the leafy branches drooping over me, my limbs buried
in grass, I could not avoid comparing our situation with that of the
interesting babes in the wood. Poor little sufferers!—no wonder their
constitutions broke down under the hardships to which they were
exposed.
During the hour or two spent under the shelter of these
bushes, I began to feel symptoms which I at once attributed to the
exposure of the preceding night. Cold shiverings and a burning
fever succeeded one another at intervals, while one of my legs was swelled
to such a degree, and pained me so acutely, that I half suspected I had been
bitten by some venomous reptile, the congenial inhabitant of the chasm from
which we had lately emerged. I may here remark by the way—what I
subsequently gleamed—that all the islands of Polynesia enjoy the
reputation, in common with the Hibernian isle, of being free from
the presence of any vipers; though whether Saint Patrick ever
visited them, is a question I shall not attempt to decide.
As the feverish sensation increased upon me I tossed about,
still unwilling to disturb my slumbering companion, from whose side
I removed two or three yards. I chanced to push aside a branch, and
by so doing suddenly disclosed to my view a scene which even now I can recall
with all the vividness of the first impression. Had a glimpse of the
gardens of Paradise been revealed to me, I could scarcely have been more
ravished with the sight.
From the spot where I lay transfixed with surprise and
delight, I looked straight down into the bosom of a valley, which swept
away in long wavy undulations to the blue waters in the distance.
Midway towards the sea, and peering here and there amidst the foliage,
might be seen the palmetto-thatched houses of its inhabitants glistening in
the sun that had bleached them to a dazzling whiteness. The vale was
more than three leagues in length, and about a mile across at its greatest
width.
On either side it appeared hemmed in by steep and
green acclivities, which, uniting near the spot where I lay, formed
an abrupt and semicircular termination of grassy cliffs and precipices
hundreds of feet in height, over which flowed numberless small
cascades. But the crowning beauty of the prospect was its universal
verdure; and in this indeed consists, I believe, the peculiar charm of every
Polynesian landscape. Everywhere below me, from the base of the
precipice upon whose very verge I had been unconsciously reposing, the
surface of the vale presented a mass of foliage, spread with such rich
profusion that it was impossible to determine of what description of
trees it consisted.
But perhaps there was nothing about the scenery I beheld
more impressive than those silent cascades, whose slender threads
of water, after leaping down the steep cliffs, were lost amidst the rich
herbage of the valley.
Over all the landscape there reigned the most hushed
repose, which I almost feared to break, lest, like the enchanted
gardens in the fairy tale, a single syllable might dissolve the spell.
For a long time, forgetful alike of my own situation, and the vicinity of
my still slumbering companion, I remained gazing around me, hardly able to
comprehend by what means I had thus suddenly been made a spectator of such a
scene.
CHAPTER EIGHT
THE IMPORTANT QUESTION, TYPEE OR HAPPAR?—A WILD GOOSE
CHASE—MY SUFFERINGS—DISHEARTENING SITUATION—A NIGHT IN A
RAVINE—MORNING MEAL—HAPPY IDEA OF TOBY—JOURNEY TOWARDS THE
VALLEY
RECOVERING from my astonishment at the beautiful scene before
me, I quickly awakened Toby, and informed him of the discovery I
had made. Together we now repaired to the border of the
precipice, and my companion's admiration was equal to my own. A
little reflection, however, abated our surprise at coming so unexpectedly
upon this valley, since the large vales of Happar and Typee, lying upon this
side of Nukuheva, and extending a considerable distance from the sea towards
the interior, must necessarily terminate somewhere about this
point.
The question now was as to which of those two places we
were looking down upon. Toby insisted that it was the abode of
the Happar, and I that it was tenanted by their enemies the
ferocious Typees. To be sure I was not entirely convinced by my
own arguments, but Toby's proposition to descend at once into the valley,
and partake of the hospitality of its inmates, seemed to me to be risking so
much upon the strength of a mere supposition, that I resolved to oppose it
until we had more evidence to proceed upon.
The point was one of vital importance, as the natives of
Happar were not only at peace with Nukuheva, but cultivated with
its inhabitants the most friendly relations, and enjoyed besides
a reputation for gentleness and humanity which led us to expect from them,
if not a cordial reception, at least a shelter during the short period we
should remain in their territory.
On the other hand, the very name of Typee struck a panic into
my heart which I did not attempt to disguise. The thought
of voluntarily throwing ourselves into the hands of these cruel savages,
seemed to me an act of mere madness; and almost equally so the idea of
venturing into the valley, uncertain by which of these two tribes it was
inhabited. That the vale at our feet was tenanted by one of them, was a
point that appeared to us past all doubt, since we knew that they resided in
this quarter, although our information did not enlighten us
further.
My companion, however, incapable of resisting the
tempting prospect which the place held out of an abundant supply of
food and other means of enjoyment, still clung to his own inconsiderate
view of the subject, nor could all my reasoning shake it. When I
reminded him that it was impossible for either of us to know anything with
certainty, and when I dwelt upon the horrible fate we should encounter were
we rashly to descend into the valley, and discover too late the error we had
committed, he replied by detailing all the evils of our present condition,
and the sufferings we must undergo should we continue to remain where we
then were.
Anxious to draw him away from the subject, if possible—for I
saw that it would be in vain to attempt changing his mind—I directed his
attention to a long bright unwooded tract of land which, sweeping down from
the elevations in the interior, descended into the valley before us. I
then suggested to him that beyond this ridge might lie a capacious and
untenanted valley, abounding with all manner of delicious fruits; for I had
heard that there were several such upon the island, and proposed that we
should endeavour to reach it, and if we found our expectations realized we
should at once take refuge in it and remain there as long as we
pleased.
He acquiesced in the suggestion; and we immediately,
therefore, began surveying the country lying before us, with a view
of determining upon the best route for us to pursue; but it presented
little choice, the whole interval being broken into steep ridges, divided by
dark ravines, extending in parallel lines at right angles to our direct
course. All these we would be obliged to cross before we could hope to
arrive at our destination.
A weary journey! But we decided to undertake it, though,
for my own part, I felt little prepared to encounter its
fatigues, shivering and burning by turns with the ague and fever; for
I know not how else to describe the alternate sensations I experienced,
and suffering not a little from the lameness which afflicted me. Added
to this was the faintness consequent on our meagre diet—a calamity in which
Toby participated to the same extent as myself.
These circumstances, however, only augmented my anxiety to
reach a place which promised us plenty and repose, before I should
be reduced to a state which would render me altogether unable to perform
the journey. Accordingly we now commenced it by descending the almost
perpendicular side of a steep and narrow gorge, bristling with a thick growth
of reeds. Here there was but one mode for us to adopt. We seated
ourselves upon the ground, and guided our descent by catching at the canes in
our path. This velocity with which we thus slid down the side of
the ravine soon brought us to a point where we could use our feet, and in
a short time we arrived at the edge of the torrent, which rolled impetuously
along the bed of the chasm.
After taking a refreshing draught from the water of the
stream, we addressed ourselves to a much more difficult undertaking
than the last. Every foot of our late descent had to be regained
in ascending the opposite side of the gorge—an operation rendered the
less agreeable from the consideration that in these perpendicular episodes we
did not progress a hundred yards on our journey. But, ungrateful as the
task was, we set about it with exemplary patience, and after a snail-like
progress of an hour or more, had scaled perhaps one half of the distance,
when the fever which had left me for a while returned with such violence,
and accompanied by so raging a thirst, that it required all the entreaties
of Toby to prevent me from losing all the fruits of my late exertion, by
precipitating myself madly down the cliffs we had just climbed, in quest of
the water which flowed so temptingly at their base. At the moment all
my hopes and fears appeared to be merged in this one desire, careless of
the consequences that might result from its gratification. I
am aware of no feeling, either of pleasure or of pain, that so completely
deprives one of an power to resist its impulses, as this same raging
thirst.
Toby earnestly conjured me to continue the ascent, assuring
me that a little more exertion would bring us to the summit, and that then
in less than five minutes we should find ourselves at the brink of the
stream, which must necessarily flow on the other side of the
ridge.
'Do not,' he exclaimed, 'turn back, now that we have
proceeded thus far; for I tell you that neither of us will have the
courage to repeat the attempt, if once more we find ourselves looking
up to where we now are from the bottom of these rocks!'
I was not yet so perfectly beside myself as to be heedless
of these representations, and therefore toiled on,
ineffectually endeavouring to appease the thirst which consumed me, by
thinking that in a short time I should be able to gratify it to my
heart's content.
At last we gained the top of the second elevation, the
loftiest of those I have described as extending in parallel lines between
us and the valley we desired to reach. It commanded a view of the whole
intervening distance; and, discouraged as I was by other circumstances, this
prospect plunged me into the very depths of despair. Nothing but dark
and fearful chasms, separated by sharp-crested and perpendicular ridges as
far as the eye could reach. Could we have stepped from summit to summit
of these steep but narrow elevations we could easily have accomplished the
distance; but we must penetrate to the bottom of every yawning gulf, and
scale in succession every one of the eminences before us. Even Toby,
although not suffering as I did, was not proof against the disheartening
influences of the sight.
But we did not long stand to contemplate it, impatient as I
was to reach the waters of the torrent which flowed beneath us.
With an insensibility to danger which I cannot call to mind
without shuddering, we threw ourselves down the depths of the
ravine, startling its savage solitudes with the echoes produced by
the falling fragments of rock we every moment dislodged from their places,
careless of the insecurity of our footing, and reckless whether the slight
roots and twigs we clutched at sustained us for the while, or treacherously
yielded to our grasp. For my own part, I scarcely knew whether I was
helplessly falling from the heights above, or whether the fearful rapidity
with which I descended was an act of my own volition.
In a few minutes we reached the foot of the gorge, and
kneeling upon a small ledge of dripping rocks, I bent over to the
stream. What a delicious sensation was I now to experience! I
paused for a second to concentrate all my capabilities of enjoyment,
and then immerged my lips in the clear element before me. Had
the apples of Sodom turned to ashes in my mouth, I could not have felt a
more startling revulsion. A single drop of the cold fluid seemed to
freeze every drop of blood in my body; the fever that had been burning in my
veins gave place on the instant to death-like chills, which shook me one
after another like so many shocks of electricity, while the perspiration
produced by my late violent exertions congealed in icy beads upon my
forehead. My thirst was gone, and I fairly loathed the water.
Starting to my feet, the sight of those dank rocks, oozing forth moisture
at every crevice, and the dark stream shooting along its dismal channel,
sent fresh chills through my shivering frame, and I felt as uncontrollable a
desire to climb up towards the genial sunlight as I before had to descend the
ravine.
After two hours' perilous exertions we stood upon the summit
of another ridge, and it was with difficulty I could bring myself
to believe that we had ever penetrated the black and yawning chasm which
then gaped at our feet. Again we gazed upon the prospect which the
height commanded, but it was just as depressing as the one which had before
met our eyes. I now felt that in our present situation it was in vain
for us to think of ever overcoming the obstacles in our way, and I gave up
all thoughts of reaching the vale which lay beyond this series of
impediments; while at the same time I could not devise any scheme to
extricate ourselves from the difficulties in which we were
involved.
The remotest idea of returning to Nukuheva, unless assured of
our vessel's departure, never once entered my mind, and indeed it
was questionable whether we could have succeeded in reaching it, divided
as we were from the bay by a distance we could not compute, and perplexed too
in our remembrance of localities by our recent wanderings. Besides, it
was unendurable the thought of retracing our steps and rendering all our
painful exertions of no avail.
There is scarcely anything when a man is in difficulties that
he is more disposed to look upon with abhorrence than a
rightabout retrograde movement—a systematic going over of the
already trodden ground: and especially if he has a love of adventure, such
a course appears indescribably repulsive, so long as there remains the least
hope to be derived from braving untried difficulties.
It was this feeling that prompted us to descend the opposite
side of the elevation we had just scaled, although with what
definite object in view it would have been impossible for either of us
to tell.
Without exchanging a syllable upon the subject, Toby and
myself simultaneously renounced the design which had lured us
thus far—perceiving in each other's countenances that
desponding expression which speaks more eloquently than words.
Together we stood towards the close of this weary day in
the cavity of the third gorge we had entered, wholly incapacitated for any
further exertion, until restored to some degree of strength by food and
repose.
We seated ourselves upon the least uncomfortable spot we
could select, and Toby produced from the bosom of his frock the
sacred package. In silence we partook of the small morsel
of refreshment that had been left from the morning's repast, and without
once proposing to violate the sanctity of our engagement with respect to the
remainder, we rose to our feet, and proceeded to construct some sort of
shelter under which we might obtain the sleep we so greatly
needed.
Fortunately the spot was better adapted to our purpose than
the one in which we had passed the last wretched night. We
cleared away the tall reeds from the small but almost level bit of ground,
and twisted them into a low basket-like hut, which we covered with a
profusion of long thick leaves, gathered from a tree near at hand. We
disposed them thickly all around, reserving only a slight opening that barely
permitted us to crawl under the shelter we had thus obtained.
These deep recesses, though protected from the winds that
assail the summits of their lofty sides, are damp and chill to a
degree that one would hardly anticipate in such a climate; and
being unprovided with anything but our woollen frocks and thin
duck trousers to resist the cold of the place, we were the more solicitous
to render our habitation for the night as comfortable as we could.
Accordingly, in addition to what we had already done, we plucked down all the
leaves within our reach and threw them in a heap over our little hut, into
which we now crept, raking after us a reserved supply to form our
couch.
That night nothing but the pain I suffered prevented me
from sleeping most refreshingly. As it was, I caught two or
three naps, while Toby slept away at my side as soundly as though he had
been sandwiched between two Holland sheets. Luckily it did not rain,
and we were preserved from the misery which a heavy shower would have
occasioned us. In the morning I was awakened by the sonorous voice of
my companion ringing in my ears and bidding me rise. I crawled out from
our heap of leaves, and was astonished at the change which a good night's
rest had wrought in his appearance. He was as blithe and joyous as a
young bird, and was staying the keenness of his morning's appetite by chewing
the soft bark of a delicate branch he held in his hand, and he recommended
the like to me as an admirable antidote against the gnawings of
hunger.
For my own part, though feeling materially better than I had
done the preceding evening, I could not look at the limb that had pained
me so violently at intervals during the last twenty-four hours, without
experiencing a sense of alarm that I strove in vain to shake off.
Unwilling to disturb the flow of my comrade's spirits, I managed to stifle
the complaints to which I might otherwise have given vent, and calling upon
him good-humouredly to speed our banquet, I prepared myself for it by washing
in the stream. This operation concluded, we swallowed, or
rather absorbed, by a peculiar kind of slow sucking process,
our respective morsels of nourishment, and then entered into a discussion
as to the steps is was necessary for us to pursue.
'What's to be done now?' inquired I, rather
dolefully.
'Descend into that same valley we descried yesterday.'
rejoined Toby, with a rapidity and loudness of utterance that almost
led me to suspect he had been slyly devouring the broadside of an ox in
some of the adjoining thickets. 'What else,' he continued, 'remains for
us to do but that, to be sure? Why, we shall both starve to a certainty
if we remain here; and as to your fears of those Typees—depend upon it, it
is all nonsense.'
'It is impossible that the inhabitants of such a lovely place
as we saw can be anything else but good fellows; and if you choose rather
to perish with hunger in one of these soppy caverns, I for one prefer to
chance a bold descent into the valley, and risk
the consequences'.
'And who is to pilot us thither,' I asked, 'even if we
should decide upon the measure you propose? Are we to go again up
and down those precipices that we crossed yesterday, until we reach the
place we started from, and then take a flying leap from the cliffs to the
valley?'
'Faith, I didn't think of that,' said Toby; 'sure enough,
both sides of the valley appeared to be hemmed in by precipices, didn't
they?'
'Yes,' answered I, 'as steep as the sides of a
line-of-battle ship, and about a hundred times as high.' My companion
sank his head upon his breast, and remained for a while in deep
thought. Suddenly he sprang to his feet, while his eyes lighted up
with that gleam of intelligence that marks the presence of some
bright idea.
'Yes, yes,' he exclaimed; 'the streams all run in the
same direction, and must necessarily flow into the valley before
they reach the sea; all we have to do is just to follow this stream, and
sooner or later it will lead us into the vale.'
'You are right, Toby,' I exclaimed, 'you are right; it
must conduct us thither, and quickly too; for, see with what a
steep inclination the water descends.'
'It does, indeed,' burst forth my companion, overjoyed at
my verification of his theory, 'it does indeed; why, it is as plain as a
pike-staff. Let us proceed at once; come, throw away all those stupid
ideas about the Typees, and hurrah for the lovely valley of the
Happars.'
'You will have it to be Happar, I see, my dear fellow;
pray Heaven you may not find yourself deceived,' observed I, with a shake
of my head.
'Amen to all that, and much more,' shouted Toby, rushing
forward; 'but Happar it is, for nothing else than Happar can it be.
So glorious a valley—such forests of bread-fruit trees—such groves of
cocoanut—such wilderness of guava-bushes! Ah! shipmate! don't
linger behind: in the name of all delightful fruits, I am dying to be at
them. Come on, come on; shove ahead, there's a lively lad; never mind
the rocks; kick them out of the way, as I do; and tomorrow, old fellow, take
my word for it, we shall be in clover. Come on;' and so saying, he
dashed along the ravine like a madman, forgetting my inability to keep up
with him. In a few minutes, however, the exuberance of his spirits
abated, and, pausing for a while, he permitted me to overtake
him.
CHAPTER NINE
PERILOUS PASSAGE OF THE RAVINE—DESCENT INTO THE
VALLEY
The fearless confidence of Toby was contagious, and I began
to adopt the Happar side of the question. I could not,
however, overcome a certain feeling of trepidation as we made our
way along these gloomy solitudes. Our progress, at
first comparatively easy, became more and more difficult. The bed
of the watercourse was covered with fragments of broken rocks, which had
fallen from above, offering so many obstructions to the course of the rapid
stream, which vexed and fretted about them,—forming at intervals small
waterfalls, pouring over into deep basins, or splashing wildly upon heaps of
stones.
From the narrowness of the gorge, and the steepness of its
sides, there was no mode of advancing but by wading through the
water; stumbling every moment over the impediments which lay hidden under
its surface, or tripping against the huge roots of trees. But the most
annoying hindrance we encountered was from a multitude of crooked boughs,
which, shooting out almost horizontally from the sides of the chasm, twisted
themselves together in fantastic masses almost to the surface of the
stream, affording us no passage except under the low arches which
they formed. Under these we were obliged to crawl on our hands
and feet, sliding along the oozy surface of the rocks, or slipping into
the deep pools, and with scarce light enough to guide us. Occasionally we
would strike our heads against some projecting limb of a tree; and while
imprudently engaged in rubbing the injured part, would fall sprawling amongst
flinty fragments, cutting and bruising ourselves, whilst the unpitying
waters flowed over our prostrate bodies. Belzoni, worming
himself through the subterranean passages of the Egyptian catacombs, could
not have met with great impediments than those we here encountered. But
we struggled against them manfully, well knowing our only hope lay in
advancing.
Towards sunset we halted at a spot where we made preparations
for passing the night. Here we constructed a hut, in much the
same way as before, and crawling into it, endeavoured to forget
our sufferings. My companion, I believe, slept pretty soundly;
but at day break, when we rolled out of our dwelling, I felt
nearly disqualified for any further efforts. Toby prescribed as
a remedy for my illness the contents of one of our little silk packages,
to be taken at once in a single dose. To this species of medical
treatment, however, I would by no means accede, much as he insisted upon it;
and so we partook of our usual morsel, and silently resumed our
journey. It was now the fourth day since we left Nukuheva, and the
gnawings of hunger became painfully acute. We were fain to pacify them
by chewing the tender bark of roots and twigs, which, if they did not afford
us nourishment, were at least sweet and pleasant to the taste.
Our progress along the steep watercourse was necessarily
slow, and by noon we had not advanced more than a mile. It
was somewhere near this part of the day that the noise of falling waters,
which we had faintly caught in the early morning, became more distinct; and
it was not long before we were arrested by a rocky precipice of nearly a
hundred feet in depth, that extended all across the channel, and over which
the wild stream poured in an unbroken leap. On each hand the walls of
the ravine presented their overhanging sides both above and below the fall,
affording no means whatever of avoiding the cataract by taking a
circuit round it.
'What's to be done now, Toby?' said I.
'Why,' rejoined he, 'as we cannot retreat, I suppose we must
keep shoving along.'
'Very true, my dear Toby; but how do you purpose
accomplishing that desirable object?'
'By jumping from the top of the fall, if there be no other
way,' unhesitatingly replied my companion: 'it will be much the quickest
way of descent; but as you are not quite as active as I am, we will try some
other way.'
And, so saying, he crept cautiously along and peered over
into the abyss, while I remained wondering by what possible means we could
overcome this apparently insuperable obstruction. As soon as my
companion had completed his survey, I eagerly inquired
the result.
'The result of my observations you wish to know, do
you?' began Toby, deliberately, with one of his odd looks: 'well, my
lad, the result of my observations is very quickly imparted. It is
at present uncertain which of our two necks will have the honour to be
broken first; but about a hundred to one would be a fair bet in favour of the
man who takes the first jump.'
'Then it is an impossible thing, is it?' inquired I
gloomily.
'No, shipmate; on the contrary, it is the easiest thing in
life: the only awkward point is the sort of usage which our unhappy limbs
may receive when we arrive at the bottom, and what sort of travelling trim we
shall be in afterwards. But follow me now, and I will show you the only
chance we have.' With this he conducted me to the verge of the
cataract, and pointed along the side of the ravine to a number of curious
looking roots, some three or four inches in thickness, and several feet long,
which, after twisting among the fissures of the rock, shot perpendicularly
from it and ran tapering to a point in the air, hanging over the gulf like so
many dark icicles. They covered nearly the entire surface of one side
of the gorge, the lowest of them reaching even to the water. Many were
moss grown and decayed, with their extremities snapped short off, and those
in the immediate vicinity of the fall were slippery with
moisture.
Toby's scheme, and it was a desperate one, was to
entrust ourselves to these treacherous-looking roots, and by slipping down
from one to another to gain the bottom.
'Are you ready to venture it?' asked Toby, looking at
me earnestly but without saying a word as to the practicability of the
plan.
'I am,' was my reply; for I saw it was our only resource if
we wished to advance, and as for retreating, all thoughts of that sort had
been long abandoned.
After I had signified my assent, Toby, without uttering a
a single word, crawled along the dripping ledge until he gained a point
from whence he could just reach one of the largest of the pendant roots; he
shook it—it quivered in his grasp, and when he let it go it twanged in the
air like a strong, wire sharply struck. Satisfied by his scrutiny, my
light limbed companion swung himself nimbly upon it, and twisting his legs
round it in sailor fashion, slipped down eight or ten feet, where his
weight gave it a motion not un-like that of a pendulum. He could
not venture to descend any further; so holding on with one hand, he with
the other shook one by one all the slender roots around him, and at last,
finding one which he thought trustworthy, shifted him self to it and
continued his downward progress.
So far so well; but I could not avoid comparing my heavier
frame and disabled condition with his light figure and
remarkable activity; but there was no help for it, and in less than
a minute's time I was swinging directly over his head. As soon
as his upturned eyes caught a glimpse of me, he exclaimed in his usual dry
tone, for the danger did not seem to daunt him in the least, 'Mate, do me the
kindness not to fall until I get out of your way;' and then swinging himself
more on one side, he continued his descent. In the mean time I
cautiously transferred myself from the limb down which I had been slipping to
a couple of others that were near it, deeming two strings to my bow
better than one, and taking care to test their strength before I
trusted my weight to them.
On arriving towards the end of the second stage in this
vertical journey, and shaking the long roots which were round me, to
my consternation they snapped off one after another like so many pipe
stems, and fell in fragments against the side of the gulf, splashing at last
into the waters beneath.
As one after another the treacherous roots yielded to my
grasp, and fell into the torrent, my heart sunk within me. The
branches on which I was suspended over the yawning chasm swang to and
fro in the air, and I expected them every moment to snap in twain.
Appalled at the dreadful fate that menaced me, I clutched frantically at
the only large root which remained near me, but in vain; I could not reach
it, though my fingers were within a few inches of it. Again and again I
tried to reach it, until at length, maddened with the thought of my
situation, I swayed myself violently by striking my foot against the side of
the rock, and at the instant that I approached the large root
caught desperately at it, and transferred myself to it. It
vibrated violently under the sudden weight, but fortunately did not
give way.
My brain grew dizzy with the idea of the frightful risk I
had just run, and I involuntarily closed my eyes to shut out the view of
the depth beneath me. For the instant I was safe, and I uttered a
devout ejaculation of thanksgiving for my escape.
'Pretty well done,' shouted Toby underneath me; 'you are
nimbler than I thought you to be—hopping about up there from root to root
like any young squirrel. As soon as you have diverted yourself
sufficiently, I would advise you to proceed.'
'Aye, aye, Toby, all in good time: two or three more such
famous roots as this, and I shall be with you.'
The residue of my downward progress was comparatively easy;
the roots were in greater abundance, and in one or two places jutting out
points of rock assisted me greatly. In a few moments I was standing by
the side of my companion.
Substituting a stout stick for the one I had thrown aside at
the top of the precipice, we now continued our course along the bed of the
ravine. Soon we were saluted by a sound in advance, that grew by
degrees louder and louder, as the noise of the cataract we were leaving
behind gradually died on our ears.
'Another precipice for us, Toby.'
'Very good; we can descend them, you know—come
on.'
Nothing indeed appeared to depress or intimidate this
intrepid fellow. Typees or Niagaras, he was as ready to engage one as
the other, and I could not avoid a thousand times congratulating myself
upon having such a companion in an enterprise like the present.
After an hour's painful progress, we reached the verge of
another fall, still loftier than the preceding and flanked both above
and below with the same steep masses of rock, presenting, however, here
and there narrow irregular ledges, supporting a shallow soil, on which grew a
variety of bushes and trees, whose bright verdure contrasted beautifully with
the foamy waters that flowed between them.
Toby, who invariably acted as pioneer, now proceeded
to reconnoitre. On his return, he reported that the shelves of
rock on our right would enable us to gain with little risk the bottom of
the cataract. Accordingly, leaving the bed of the stream at the very
point where it thundered down, we began crawling along one of those sloping
ledges until it carried us to within a few feet of another that inclined
downwards at a still sharper angle, and upon which, by assisting each other
we managed to alight in safety. We warily crept along this, steadying
ourselves by the naked roots of the shrubs that clung to every fissure.
As we proceeded, the narrow path became still more contracted, rendering
it difficult for us to maintain our footing, until suddenly, as we reached an
angle of the wall of rock where we had expected it to widen, we perceived to
our consternation that a yard or two further on it abruptly terminated at a
place we could not possibly hope to pass.
Toby as usual led the van, and in silence I waited to learn
from him how he proposed to extricate us from this new
difficulty.
'Well, my boy,' I exclaimed, after the expiration of
several minutes, during which time my companion had not uttered a
word, 'what's to be done now?'
He replied in a tranquil tone, that probably the best thing
we could do in our present strait was to get out of it as soon
as possible.
'Yes, my dear Toby, but tell me how we are to get out of
it.'
'Something in this sort of style,' he replied, and at the
same moment to my horror he slipped sideways off the rocks and, as I then
thought, by good fortune merely, alighted among the spreading branches of a
species of palm tree, that shooting its hardy roots along a ledge below,
curved its trunk upwards into the air, and presented a thick mass of foliage
about twenty feet below the spot where we had thus suddenly been brought to
a standstill. I involuntarily held my breath, expecting to see
the form of my companion, after being sustained for a moment by
the branches of the tree, sink through their frail support, and
fall headlong to the bottom. To my surprise and joy, however,
he recovered himself, and disentangling his limbs from the
fractured branches, he peered out from his leafy bed, and shouted
lustily, 'Come on, my hearty there is no other alternative!' and with
this he ducked beneath the foliage, and slipping down the trunk, stood in
a moment at least fifty feet beneath me, upon the broad shelf of rock from
which sprung the tree he had descended.
What would I not have given at that moment to have been by
his side. The feat he had just accomplished seemed little less
than miraculous, and I could hardly credit the evidence of my senses when
I saw the wide distance that a single daring act had so suddenly placed
between us.
Toby's animating 'come on' again sounded in my ears, and
dreading to lose all confidence in myself if I remained meditating
upon the step, I once more gazed down to assure myself of the
relative bearing of the tree and my own position, and then closing my
eyes and uttering one comprehensive ejaculation of prayer, I
inclined myself over towards the abyss, and after one breathless
instant fell with a crash into the tree, the branches snapping
and cracking with my weight, as I sunk lower and lower among them, until I
was stopped by coming in contact with a sturdy limb.
In a few moments I was standing at the foot of the
tree manipulating myself all over with a view of ascertaining the extent
of the injuries I had received. To my surprise the only effects of my
feat were a few slight contusions too trifling to care about. The rest
of our descent was easily accomplished, and in half an hour after regaining
the ravine we had partaken of our evening morsel, built our hut as usual, and
crawled under its shelter.
The next morning, in spite of our debility and the agony
of hunger under which we were now suffering, though neither of
us confessed to the fact, we struggled along our dismal and
still difficult and dangerous path, cheered by the hope of soon catching a
glimpse of the valley before us, and towards evening the voice of a cataract
which had for some time sounded like a low deep bass to the music of the
smaller waterfalls, broke upon our ears in still louder tones, and assured us
that we were approaching its vicinity.
That evening we stood on the brink of a precipice, over which
the dark stream bounded in one final leap of full 300 feet.
The sheer descent terminated in the region we so long had sought.
On each side of the fall, two lofty and perpendicular bluffs buttressed
the sides of the enormous cliff, and projected into the sea of verdure with
which the valley waved, and a range of similar projecting eminences stood
disposed in a half circle about the head if the vale. A thick canopy of
trees hung over the very verge of the fall, leaving an arched aperture for
the passage of the waters, which imparted a strange picturesqueness to the
scene.
The valley was now before us; but instead of being conducted
into its smiling bosom by the gradual descent of the deep watercourse we
had thus far pursued, all our labours now appeared to have been rendered
futile by its abrupt termination. But, bitterly disappointed, we did
not entirely despair.
As it was now near sunset we determined to pass the night
where we were, and on the morrow, refreshed by sleep, and by eating at one
meal all our stock of food, to accomplish a descent into the valley, or
perish in the attempt.
We laid ourselves down that night on a spot, the recollection
of which still makes me shudder. A small table of rock
which projected over the precipice on one side of the stream, and
was drenched by the spray of the fall, sustained a huge trunk of a tree
which must have been deposited there by some heavy freshet. It lay
obliquely, with one end resting on the rock and the other supported by the
side of the ravine. Against it we placed in a sloping direction a
number of the half decayed boughs that were strewn about, and covering the
whole with twigs and leaves, awaited the morning's light beneath such shelter
as it afforded.
During the whole of this night the continual
roaring of the cataract—the dismal moaning of the gale through the
trees—the pattering of the rain, and the profound darkness, affected
my spirits to a degree which nothing had ever before produced.
Wet, half famished, and chilled to the heart with the dampness of
the place, and nearly wild with the pain I endured, I fairly cowered down
to the earth under this multiplication of hardships, and abandoned myself to
frightful anticipations of evil; and my companion, whose spirit at last was a
good deal broken, scarcely uttered a word during the whole
night.
At length the day dawned upon us, and rising from our
miserable pallet, we stretched our stiffened joints, and after eating
all that remained of our bread, prepared for the last stage of
our journey. I will not recount every hair-breadth escape,
and every fearful difficulty that occurred before we succeeded in reaching
the bosom of the valley. As I have already described similar scenes, it
will be sufficient to say that at length, after great toil and great dangers,
we both stood with no limbs broken at the head of that magnificent vale which
five days before had so suddenly burst upon my sight, and almost
beneath the shadow of those very cliffs from whose summits we had
gazed upon the prospect.
CHAPTER TEN
THE HEAD OF THE VALLEY—CAUTIOUS
ADVANCE—A PATH—FRUIT—DISCOVERY OF TWO OF THE NATIVES—THEIR
SINGULAR CONDUCT—APPROACH TOWARDS THE INHABITED PARTS OF
THE VALE—SENSATION PRODUCED BY OUR APPEARANCE—RECEPTION AT THE HOUSE OF
ONE OF THE NATIVES
HOW to obtain the fruit which we felt convinced must grow near
at hand was our first thought.
Typee or Happar? A frightful death at the hands of the
fiercest of cannibals, or a kindly reception from a gentler race
of savages? Which? But it was too late now to discuss a
question which would so soon be answered.
The part of the valley in which we found ourselves appeared to
be altogether uninhabited. An almost impenetrable thicket
extended from side to side, without presenting a single plant
affording the nourishment we had confidently calculated upon; and with
this object, we followed the course of the stream, casting quick glances
as we proceeded into the thick jungles on each hand.
My companion—to whose solicitations I had yielded in descending into the
valley—now that the step was taken, began to manifest a degree of caution I
had little expected from him. He proposed that in the event of our
finding an adequate supply of fruit, we should remain in this unfrequented
portion of the country—where we should run little chance of being surprised
by its occupants, whoever they might be—until sufficiently recruited to
resume our journey; when laying a store of food equal to our wants, we
might easily regain the bay of Nukuheva, after the lapse of a sufficient
interval to ensure the departure of our vessel.
I objected strongly to this proposition, plausible as it was,
as the difficulties of the route would be almost
insurmountable, unacquainted as we were with the general bearings of the
country, and I reminded my companion of the hardships which we had
already encountered in our uncertain wanderings; in a word, I said
that since we had deemed it advisable to enter the valley, we
ought manfully to face the consequences, whatever they might be; the more
especially as I was convinced there was no alternative left us but to fall in
with the natives at once, and boldly risk the reception they might give us;
and that as to myself, I felt the necessity of rest and shelter, and that
until I had obtained them, I should be wholly unable to encounter such
sufferings as we had lately passed through. To the justice of
these observations Toby somewhat reluctantly assented.
We were surprised that, after moving as far as we had along
the valley, we should still meet with the same impervious thickets; and
thinking, that although the borders of the stream might be lined for some
distance with them, yet beyond there might be more open ground, I requested
Toby to keep a bright look-out upon one side, while I did the same on the
other, in order to discover some opening in the bushes, and especially to
watch for the slightest appearance of a path or anything else that
might indicate the vicinity of the islanders.
What furtive and anxious glances we cast into those
dim-looking shadows! With what apprehensions we proceeded, ignorant at
what moment we might be greeted by the javelin of some
ambushed savage. At last my companion paused, and directed my
attention to a narrow opening in the foliage. We struck into it, and
it soon brought us by an indistinctly traced path to a comparatively clear
space, at the further end of which we descried a number of the trees, the
native name of which is 'annuee', and which bear a most delicious
fruit. What a race! I hobbling over the ground like some decrepid
wretch, and Toby leaping forward like a greyhound. He quickly cleared
one of the trees on which there were two or three of the fruit, but to our
chagrin they proved to be much decayed; the rinds partly opened by the birds,
and their hearts half devoured. However, we quickly despatched them,
and no ambrosia could have been more delicious.
We looked about us uncertain whither to direct our steps,
since the path we had so far followed appeared to be lost in the
open space around us. At last we resolved to enter a grove near
at hand, and had advanced a few rods, when, just upon its skirts, I picked
up a slender bread-fruit shoot perfectly green, and with the tender bark
freshly stripped from it. It was still slippery with moisture, and
appeared as if it had been but that moment thrown aside. I said
nothing, but merely held it up to Toby, who started at this undeniable
evidence of the vicinity of the savages.
The plot was now thickening.—A short distance further lay
a little faggot of the same shoots bound together with a strip
of bark. Could it have been thrown down by some solitary
native, who, alarmed at seeing us, had hurried forward to carry
the tidings of our approach to his countrymen?—Typee or Happar?—But it
was too late to recede, so we moved on slowly, my companion in advance
casting eager glances under the trees on each side, until all at once I saw
him recoil as if stung by an adder. Sinking on his knee, he waved me
off with one hand, while with the other he held aside some intervening
leaves, and gazed intently at some object.
Disregarding his injunction, I quickly approached him and
caught a glimpse of two figures partly hidden by the dense foliage;
they were standing close together, and were perfectly motionless.
They must have previously perceived us, and withdrawn into the depths of
the wood to elude our observation.
My mind was at once made up. Dropping my staff, and
tearing open the package of things we had brought from the ship, I
unrolled the cotton cloth, and holding it in one hand picked with
the other a twig from the bushes beside me, and telling Toby to follow my
example, I broke through the covert and advanced, waving the branch in token
of peace towards the shrinking forms before me. They were a boy and a
girl, slender and graceful, and completely naked, with the exception of a
slight girdle of bark, from which depended at opposite points two of the
russet leaves of the bread-fruit tree. An arm of the boy, half screened
from sight by her wild tresses, was thrown about the neck of the
girl, while with the other he held one of her hands in his; and thus they
stood together, their heads inclined forward, catching the faint noise we
made in our progress, and with one foot in advance, as if half inclined to
fly from our presence.
As we drew near, their alarm evidently increased.
Apprehensive that they might fly from us altogether, I stopped short
and motioned them to advance and receive the gift I extended towards them,
but they would not; I then uttered a few words of their language with which I
was acquainted, scarcely expected that they would understand me, but to show
that we had not dropped from the clouds upon them. This appeared to
give them a little confidence, so I approached nearer, presenting the cloth
with one hand, and holding the bough with the other, while they
slowly retreated. At last they suffered us to approach so near to
them that we were enabled to throw the cotton cloth across
their shoulders, giving them to understand that it was theirs, and by
a variety of gestures endeavouring to make them understand that
we entertained the highest possible regard for them.
The frightened pair now stood still, whilst we endeavoured
to make them comprehend the nature of our wants. In doing this
Toby went through with a complete series of
pantomimic illustrations—opening his mouth from ear to ear, and
thrusting his fingers down his throat, gnashing his teeth and rolling
his eyes about, till I verily believe the poor creatures took us for a
couple of white cannibals who were about to make a meal of them. When,
however, they understood us, they showed no inclination to relieve our
wants. At this juncture it began to rain violently, and we motioned
them to lead us to some place of shelter. With this request they
appeared willing to comply, but nothing could evince more strongly the
apprehension with which they regarded us, than the way in which, whilst
walking before us, they kept their eyes constantly turned back to watch
every movement we made, and even our very looks.
'Typee or Happar, Toby?' asked I as we walked after
them.
'Of course Happar,' he replied, with a show of confidence
which was intended to disguise his doubts.
'We shall soon know,' I exclaimed; and at the same moment
I stepped forward towards our guides, and pronouncing the two
names interrogatively and pointing to the lowest part of the
valley, endeavoured to come to the point at once. They repeated
the words after me again and again, but without giving any
peculiar emphasis to either, so that I was completely at a loss
to understand them; for a couple of wilier young things than we afterwards
found them to have been on this particular occasion never probably fell in
any traveller's way.
More and more curious to ascertain our fate, I now threw
together in the form of a question the words 'Happar' and 'Motarkee',
the latter being equivalent to the word 'good'. The two
natives interchanged glances of peculiar meaning with one another at this,
and manifested no little surprise; but on the repetition of the question
after some consultation together, to the great joy of Toby, they answered in
the affirmative. Toby was now in ecstasies, especially as the young
savages continued to reiterate their answer with great energy, as though
desirous of impressing us with the idea that being among the Happars, we
ought to consider ourselves perfectly secure.
Although I had some lingering doubts, I feigned great
delight with Toby at this announcement, while my companion broke out
into a pantomimic abhorrence of Typee, and immeasurable love for
the particular valley in which we were; our guides all the while gazing
uneasily at one another as if at a loss to account for
our conduct.
They hurried on, and we followed them; until suddenly they set
up a strange halloo, which was answered from beyond the grove through
which we were passing, and the next moment we entered upon some open ground,
at the extremity of which we descried a long, low hut, and in front of it
were several young girls. As soon as they perceived us they fled with
wild screams into the adjoining thickets, like so many startled fawns.
A few moments after the whole valley resounded with savage outcries, and
the natives came running towards us from every direction.
Had an army of invaders made an irruption into their
territory they could not have evinced greater excitement. We were
soon completely encircled by a dense throng, and in their eager desire to
behold us they almost arrested our progress; an equal number surrounded our
youthful guides, who with amazing volubility appeared to be detailing the
circumstances which had attended their meeting with us. Every item of
intelligence appeared to redouble the astonishment of the islanders, and they
gazed at us with inquiring looks.
At last we reached a large and handsome building of bamboos,
and were by signs told to enter it, the natives opening a lane for
us through which to pass; on entering without ceremony, we threw
our exhausted frames upon the mats that covered the floor. In
a moment the slight tenement was completely full of people, whilst those
who were unable to obtain admittance gazed at us through its open
cane-work.
It was now evening, and by the dim light we could just
discern the savage countenances around us, gleaming with wild
curiosity and wonder; the naked forms and tattooed limbs of
brawny warriors, with here and there the slighter figures of young girls,
all engaged in a perfect storm of conversation, of which we were of course
the one only theme, whilst our recent guides were fully occupied in answering
the innumerable questions which every one put to them. Nothing can
exceed the fierce gesticulation of these people when animated in
conversation, and on this occasion they gave loose to all their natural
vivacity, shouting and dancing about in a manner that well nigh
intimidated us.
Close to where we lay, squatting upon their haunches, were
some eight or ten noble-looking chiefs—for such they subsequently proved
to be—who, more reserved than the rest, regarded us with a fixed and stern
attention, which not a little discomposed our equanimity. One of them
in particular, who appeared to be the highest in rank, placed himself
directly facing me, looking at me with a rigidity of aspect under which I
absolutely quailed. He never once opened his lips, but maintained his
severe expression of countenance, without turning his face aside for a
single moment. Never before had I been subjected to so strange
and steady a glance; it revealed nothing of the mind of the savage, but it
appeared to be reading my own.
After undergoing this scrutiny till I grew absolutely
nervous, with a view of diverting it if possible, and conciliating
the good opinion of the warrior, I took some tobacco from the bosom of my
frock and offered it to him. He quietly rejected the proffered gift,
and, without speaking, motioned me to return it to its place.
In my previous intercourse with the natives of Nukuheva and
Tior, I had found that the present of a small piece of tobacco would have
rendered any of them devoted to my service. Was this act of the chief a
token of his enmity? Typee or Happar? I asked within
myself. I started, for at the same moment this identical question was
asked by the strange being before me. I turned to Toby, the flickering
light of a native taper showed me his countenance pale with trepidation at
this fatal question. I paused for a second, and I know not by what
impulse it was that I answered 'Typee'. The piece of dusky statuary
nodded in approval, and then murmured 'Motarkee!' 'Motarkee,' said
I, without further hesitation 'Typee motarkee.'
What a transition! The dark figures around us leaped to
their feet, clapped their hands in transport, and shouted again and again
the talismanic syllables, the utterance of which appeared to have settled
everything.
When this commotion had a little subsided, the principal
chief squatted once more before me, and throwing himself into a
sudden rage, poured forth a string of philippics, which I was at no
loss to understand, from the frequent recurrence of the word Happar, as
being directed against the natives of the adjoining valley. In all
these denunciations my companion and I acquiesced, while we extolled the
character of the warlike Typees. To be sure our panegyrics were
somewhat laconic, consisting in the repetition of that name, united with the
potent adjective 'motarkee'. But this was sufficient, and served to
conciliate the good will of the natives, with whom our congeniality of
sentiment on this point did more towards inspiring a friendly feeling than
anything else that could have happened.
At last the wrath of the chief evaporated, and in a few
moments he was as placid as ever. Laying his hand upon his breast,
he gave me to understand that his name was 'Mehevi', and that, in return,
he wished me to communicate my appellation. I hesitated for an instant,
thinking that it might be difficult for him to pronounce my real name, and
then with the most praiseworthy intentions intimated that I was known as
'Tom'. But I could not have made a worse selection; the chief could not
master it. 'Tommo,' 'Tomma', 'Tommee', everything but plain
'Tom'. As he persisted in garnishing the word with an additional
syllable, I compromised the matter with him at the word 'Tommo'; and by
that name I went during the entire period of my stay in the valley.
The same proceeding was gone through with Toby, whose
mellifluous appellation was more easily caught.
An exchange of names is equivalent to a ratification of good
will and amity among these simple people; and as we were aware of
this fact, we were delighted that it had taken place on the
present occasion.
Reclining upon our mats, we now held a kind of levee,
giving audience to successive troops of the natives, who
introduced themselves to us by pronouncing their respective names,
and retired in high good humour on receiving ours in return.
During this ceremony the greatest merriment prevailed nearly
every announcement on the part of the islanders being followed by a fresh
sally of gaiety, which induced me to believe that some of them at least were
innocently diverting the company at our expense, by bestowing upon themselves
a string of absurd titles, of the humour of which we were of course entirely
ignorant.
All this occupied about an hour, when the throng having a
little diminished, I turned to Mehevi and gave him to understand that
we were in need of food and sleep. Immediately the attentive
chief addressed a few words to one of the crowd, who disappeared,
and returned in a few moments with a calabash of 'poee-poee', and two or
three young cocoanuts stripped of their husks, and with their shells partly
broken. We both of us forthwith placed one of these natural goblets to
our lips, and drained it in a moment of the refreshing draught it
contained. The poee-poee was then placed before us, and even famished
as I was, I paused to consider in what manner to convey it to my
mouth.
This staple article of food among the Marquese islanders
is manufactured from the produce of the bread-fruit tree.
It somewhat resembles in its plastic nature our bookbinders' paste, is of
a yellow colour, and somewhat tart to the taste.
Such was the dish, the merits of which I was now eager
to discuss. I eyed it wistfully for a moment, and then, unable
any longer to stand on ceremony, plunged my hand into the yielding mass,
and to the boisterous mirth of the natives drew it forth laden with the
poee-poee, which adhered in lengthy strings to every finger. So
stubborn was its consistency, that in conveying my heavily-weighted hand to
my mouth, the connecting links almost raised the calabash from the mats on
which it had been placed. This display of awkwardness—in which,
by-the-bye, Toby kept me company—convulsed the bystanders with
uncontrollable laughter.
As soon as their merriment had somewhat subsided,
Mehevi, motioning us to be attentive, dipped the forefinger of his
right hand in the dish, and giving it a rapid and scientific twirl, drew
it out coated smoothly with the preparation. With a second peculiar
flourish he prevented the poee-poee from dropping to the ground as he raised
it to his mouth, into which the finger was inserted and drawn forth perfectly
free from any adhesive matter.
This performance was evidently intended for our instruction;
so I again essayed the feat on the principles inculcated, but with very
ill success.
A starving man, however, little heeds conventional
proprieties, especially on a South-Sea Island, and accordingly Toby and
I partook of the dish after our own clumsy fashion, beplastering our faces
all over with the glutinous compound, and daubing our hands nearly to the
wrist. This kind of food is by no means disagreeable to the palate of a
European, though at first the mode of eating it may be. For my own
part, after the lapse of a few days I became accustomed to its singular
flavour, and grew remarkably fond of it.
So much for the first course; several other dishes followed
it, some of which were positively delicious. We concluded
our banquet by tossing off the contents of two more young cocoanuts, after
which we regaled ourselves with the soothing fumes of tobacco, inhaled from a
quaintly carved pipe which passed round the circle.
During the repast, the natives eyed us with intense
curiosity, observing our minutest motions, and appearing to
discover abundant matter for comment in the most trifling occurrence.
Their surprise mounted the highest, when we began to remove
our uncomfortable garments, which were saturated with rain.
They scanned the whiteness of our limbs, and seemed utterly unable
to account for the contrast they presented to the swarthy hue of our faces
embrowned from a six months' exposure to the scorching sun of the Line.
They felt our skin, much in the same way that a silk mercer would handle a
remarkably fine piece of satin; and some of them went so far in their
investigation as to apply the olfactory organ.
Their singular behaviour almost led me to imagine that they
never before had beheld a white man; but a few moments'
reflection convinced me that this could not have been the case; and a
more satisfactory reason for their conduct has since suggested itself to
my mind.
Deterred by the frightful stories related of its
inhabitants, ships never enter this bay, while their hostile relations
with the tribes in the adjoining valleys prevent the Typees from visiting
that section of the island where vessels occasionally lie. At long
intervals, however, some intrepid captain will touch on the skirts of the
bay, with two or three armed boats' crews and accompanied by
interpreters. The natives who live near the sea descry the strangers
long before they reach their waters, and aware of the purpose for which they
come, proclaim loudly the news of their approach. By a species of vocal
telegraph the intelligence reaches the inmost recesses of the vale in
an inconceivably short space of time, drawing nearly its whole population
down to the beach laden with every variety of fruit. The interpreter,
who is invariably a 'tabooed Kanaka'*, leaps ashore with the goods intended
for barter, while the boats, with their oars shipped, and every man on his
thwart, lie just outside the surf, heading off the shore, in readiness at the
first untoward event to escape to the open sea. As soon as the
traffic is concluded, one of the boats pulls in under cover of the muskets
of the others, the fruit is quickly thrown into her, and the transient
visitors precipitately retire from what they justly consider so dangerous a
vicinity.
* The word 'Kanaka' is at the present day universally used in
the South Seas by Europeans to designate the Islanders. In
the various dialects of the principal groups it is simply a
sexual designation applied to the males; but it is now used by the natives
in their intercourse with foreigners in the same sense in which the latter
employ it.
A 'Tabooed Kanaka' is an islander whose person has been made
to a certain extent sacred by the operation of a singular custom hereafter
to be explained.
The intercourse occurring with Europeans being so restricted,
no wonder that the inhabitants of the valley manifested so much curiosity
with regard to us, appearing as we did among them under such singular
circumstances. I have no doubt that we were the first white men who
ever penetrated thus far back into their territories, or at least the first
who had ever descended from the head of the vale. What had brought us
thither must have appeared a complete mystery to them, and from our ignorance
of the language it was impossible for us to enlighten them.
In answer to inquiries which the eloquence of their gestures enabled us to
comprehend, all that we could reply was, that we had come from Nukuheva, a
place, be it remembered, with which they were at open war. This
intelligence appeared to affect them with the most lively emotions.
'Nukuheva motarkee?' they asked. Of course we replied most
energetically in the negative.
Then they plied us with a thousand questions, of which we
could understand nothing more than that they had reference to the recent
movements of the French, against whom they seemed to cherish the most fierce
hatred. So eager were they to obtain information on this point, that
they still continued to propound their queries long after we had shown that
we were utterly unable to answer them. Occasionally we caught some
indistinct idea of their meaning, when we would endeavour by every method in
our power to communicate the desired intelligence. At such
times their gratification was boundless, and they would redouble
their efforts to make us comprehend them more perfectly. But all
in vain; and in the end they looked at us despairingly, as if we were the
receptacles of invaluable information; but how to come at it they knew
not.
After a while the group around us gradually dispersed, and
we were left about midnight (as we conjectured) with those who appeared to
be permanent residents of the house. These individuals now provided us
with fresh mats to lie upon, covered us with several folds of tappa, and then
extinguishing the tapers that had been burning, threw themselves down beside
us, and after a little desultory conversation were soon sound
asleep.
CHAPTER ELEVEN
MIDNIGHT REFLECTIONS—MORNING VISITORS—A WARRIOR IN
COSTUME—A SAVAGE AESCULAPIUS—PRACTICE OF THE HEALING ART—BODY
SERVANT—A DWELLING-HOUSE OF THE VALLEY DESCRIBED—PORTRAITS OF ITS
INMATES
VARIOUS and conflicting were the thoughts which oppressed
me during the silent hours that followed the events related in
the preceding chapter. Toby, wearied with the fatigues of the
day, slumbered heavily by my side; but the pain under which I
was suffering effectually prevented my sleeping, and I
remained distressingly alive to all the fearful circumstances of
our present situation. Was it possible that, after all
our vicissitudes, we were really in the terrible valley of Typee, and at
the mercy of its inmates, a fierce and unrelenting tribe of savages?
Typee or Happar? I shuddered when I reflected that there was no longer
any room for doubt; and that, beyond all hope of escape, we were now placed
in those very circumstances from the bare thought of which I had recoiled
with such abhorrence but a few days before. What might not be our
fearful destiny? To be sure, as yet we had been treated with no
violence; nay, had been even kindly and hospitably entertained. But
what dependence could be placed upon the fickle passions which sway the bosom
of a savage? His inconstancy and treachery are proverbial.
Might it not be that beneath these fair appearances the islanders covered
some perfidious design, and that their friendly reception of us might only
precede some horrible catastrophe? How strongly did these forebodings
spring up in my mind as I lay restlessly upon a couch of mats surrounded by
the dimly revealed forms of those whom I so greatly dreaded!
From the excitement of these fearful thoughts I sank
towards morning into an uneasy slumber; and on awaking, with a start,
in the midst of an appalling dream, looked up into the eager countenance
of a number of the natives, who were bending over me.
It was broad day; and the house was nearly filled with
young females, fancifully decorated with flowers, who gazed upon me as I
rose with faces in which childish delight and curiosity were vividly
portrayed. After waking Toby, they seated themselves round us on the
mats, and gave full play to that prying inquisitiveness which time out of
mind has been attributed to the adorable sex.
As these unsophisticated young creatures were attended by
no jealous duennas, their proceedings were altogether informal, and void
of artificial restraint. Long and minute was the investigation with
which they honoured us, and so uproarious their mirth, that I felt infinitely
sheepish; and Toby was immeasurably outraged at their
familiarity.
These lively young ladies were at the same time
wonderfully polite and humane; fanning aside the insects that
occasionally lighted on our brows; presenting us with food;
and compassionately regarding me in the midst of my afflictions.
But in spite of all their blandishments, my feelings of propriety were
exceedingly shocked, for I could but consider them as having overstepped the
due limits of female decorum.
Having diverted themselves to their hearts' content, our
young visitants now withdrew, and gave place to successive troops of the
other sex, who continued flocking towards the house until near noon; by which
time I have no doubt that the greater part of the inhabitants of the valley
had bathed themselves in the light of our benignant
countenances.
At last, when their numbers began to diminish, a
superb-looking warrior stooped the towering plumes of his head-dress
beneath the low portal, and entered the house. I saw at once that he
was some distinguished personage, the natives regarding him with
the utmost deference, and making room for him as he approached.
His aspect was imposing. The splendid long drooping tail-feathers
of the tropical bird, thickly interspersed with the gaudy plumage of the
cock, were disposed in an immense upright semicircle upon his head, their
lower extremities being fixed in a crescent of guinea-heads which spanned the
forehead. Around his neck were several enormous necklaces of boar's
tusks, polished like ivory, and disposed in such a manner as that the longest
and largest were upon his capacious chest. Thrust forward through the
large apertures in his ears were two small and finely-shaped sperm whale
teeth, presenting their cavities in front, stuffed with freshly-plucked
leaves, and curiously wrought at the other end into strange little images and
devices. These barbaric trinkets, garnished in this manner at their
open extremities, and tapering and curving round to a point behind the ear,
resembled not a little a pair of cornucopias.
The loins of the warrior were girt about with heavy folds of
a dark-coloured tappa, hanging before and behind in clusters of braided
tassels, while anklets and bracelets of curling human hair completed his
unique costume. In his right hand he grasped a beautifully carved
paddle-spear, nearly fifteen feet in length, made of the bright koar-wood,
one end sharply pointed, and the other flattened like an oar-blade.
Hanging obliquely from his girdle by a loop of sinnate was a richly decorated
pipe; the slender reed forming its stem was coloured with a red
pigment, and round it, as well as the idol-bowl, fluttered
little streamers of the thinnest tappa.
But that which was most remarkable in the appearance of
this splendid islander was the elaborate tattooing displayed on
every noble limb. All imaginable lines and curves and figures
were delineated over his whole body, and in their grotesque variety and
infinite profusion I could only compare them to the crowded groupings of
quaint patterns we sometimes see in costly pieces of lacework. The most
simple and remarkable of all these ornaments was that which decorated the
countenance of the chief. Two broad stripes of tattooing, diverging
from the centre of his shaven crown, obliquely crossed both eyes—staining
the lids—to a little below each ear, where they united with another
stripe which swept in a straight line along the lips and formed the
base of the triangle. The warrior, from the excellence of
his physical proportions, might certainly have been regarded as one of
Nature's noblemen, and the lines drawn upon his face may possibly have
denoted his exalted rank.
This warlike personage, upon entering the house, seated
himself at some distance from the spot where Toby and myself
reposed, while the rest of the savages looked alternately from us to
him, as if in expectation of something they were disappointed in
not perceiving. Regarding the chief attentively, I thought
his lineaments appeared familiar to me. As soon as his full face
was turned upon me, and I again beheld its extraordinary embellishment,
and met the strange gaze to which I had been subjected the preceding night, I
immediately, in spite of the alteration in his appearance, recognized the
noble Mehevi. On addressing him, he advanced at once in the most
cordial manner, and greeting me warmly, seemed to enjoy not a little the
effect his barbaric costume had produced upon me.
I forthwith determined to secure, if possible, the good-will
of this individual, as I easily perceived he was a man of great authority
in his tribe, and one who might exert a powerful influence upon our
subsequent fate. In the endeavour I was not repulsed; for nothing could
surpass the friendliness he manifested towards both my companion and
myself. He extended his sturdy limbs by our side, and endeavoured to
make us comprehend the full extent of the kindly feelings by which he was
actuated. The almost insuperable difficulty in communicating to one
another our ideas affected the chief with no little mortification.
He evinced a great desire to be enlightened with regard to the customs and
peculiarities of the far-off country we had left behind us, and to which
under the name of Maneeka he frequently alluded.
But that which more than any other subject engaged his
attention was the late proceedings of the 'Frannee' as he called
the French, in the neighbouring bay of Nukuheva. This seemed
a never-ending theme with him, and one concerning which he was never weary
of interrogating us. All the information we succeeded in imparting to
him on this subject was little more than that we had seen six men-of-war
lying in the hostile bay at the time we had left it. When he received
this intelligence, Mehevi, by the aid of his fingers, went through a long
numerical calculation, as if estimating the number of Frenchmen
the squadron might contain.
It was just after employing his faculties in this way that
he happened to notice the swelling in my limb. He
immediately examined it with the utmost attention, and after doing
so, despatched a boy who happened to be standing by with
some message.
After the lapse of a few moments the stripling re-entered
the house with an aged islander, who might have been taken for
old Hippocrates himself. His head was as bald as the
polished surface of a cocoanut shell, which article it precisely
resembled in smoothness and colour, while a long silvery beard swept
almost to his girdle of bark. Encircling his temples was a bandeau
of the twisted leaves of the Omoo tree, pressed closely over the brows to
shield his feeble vision from the glare of the sun. His tottering steps
were supported by a long slim staff, resembling the wand with which a
theatrical magician appears on the stage, and in one hand he carried a
freshly plaited fan of the green leaflets of the cocoanut tree. A
flowing robe of tappa, knotted over the shoulder, hung loosely round his
stooping form, and heightened the venerableness of his aspect.
Mehevi, saluting this old gentleman, motioned him to a
seat between us, and then uncovering my limb, desired him to
examine it. The leech gazed intently from me to Toby, and then
proceeded to business. After diligently observing the ailing member,
he commenced manipulating it; and on the supposition probably that the
complaint had deprived the leg of all sensation, began to pinch and hammer it
in such a manner that I absolutely roared with pain. Thinking that I
was as capable of making an application of thumps and pinches to the part as
any one else, I endeavoured to resist this species of medical
treatment. But it was not so easy a matter to get out of the clutches
of the old wizard; he fastened on the unfortunate limb as if it
were something for which he had been long seeking, and muttering some kind
of incantation continued his discipline, pounding it after a fashion that set
me well nigh crazy; while Mehevi, upon the same principle which prompts an
affectionate mother to hold a struggling child in a dentist's chair,
restrained me in his powerful grasp, and actually encouraged the wretch in
this infliction of torture.
Almost frantic with rage and pain, I yelled like a
bedlamite; while Toby, throwing himself into all the attitudes of
a posture-master, vainly endeavoured to expostulate with the natives by
signs and gestures. To have looked at my companion, as, sympathizing
with my sufferings, he strove to put an end to them, one would have thought
that he was the deaf and dumb alphabet incarnated. Whether my tormentor
yielded to Toby's entreaties, or paused from sheer exhaustion, I do not know;
but all at once he ceased his operations, and at the same time the chief
relinquishing his hold upon me, I fell back, faint and breathless with the
agony I had endured.
My unfortunate limb was now left much in the same condition as
a rump-steak after undergoing the castigating process which precedes
cooking. My physician, having recovered from the fatigues of his
exertions, as if anxious to make amends for the pain to which he had
subjected me, now took some herbs out of a little wallet that was suspended
from his waist, and moistening them in water, applied them to the inflamed
part, stooping over it at the same time, and either whispering a spell, or
having a little confidential chat with some imaginary demon located in
the calf of my leg. My limb was now swathed in leafy bandages,
and grateful to Providence for the cessation of hostilities, I
was suffered to rest.
Mehevi shortly after rose to depart; but before he went he
spoke authoritatively to one of the natives whom he addressed
as Kory-Kory; and from the little I could understand of what took place,
pointed him out to me as a man whose peculiar business thenceforth would be
to attend upon my person. I am not certain that I comprehended as much
as this at the time, but the subsequent conduct of my trusty body-servant
fully assured me that such must have been the case.
I could not but be amused at the manner in which the
chief addressed me upon this occasion, talking to me for at least fifteen
or twenty minutes as calmly as if I could understand every word that he
said. I remarked this peculiarity very often afterwards in many other
of the islanders.
Mehevi having now departed, and the family physician
having likewise made his exit, we were left about sunset with ten
or twelve natives, who by this time I had ascertained composed
the household of which Toby and I were members. As the dwelling
to which we had been first introduced was the place of my permanent abode
while I remained in the valley, and as I was necessarily placed upon the most
intimate footing with its occupants, I may as well here enter into a little
description of it and its inhabitants. This description will apply also
to nearly all the other dwelling-places in the vale, and will furnish some
idea of the generality of the natives.
Near one side of the valley, and about midway up the ascent of
a rather abrupt rise of ground waving with the richest verdure, a number
of large stones were laid in successive courses, to the height of nearly
eight feet, and disposed in such a manner that their level surface
corresponded in shape with the habitation which was perched upon it. A
narrow space, however, was reserved in front of the dwelling, upon the summit
of this pile of stones (called by the natives a 'pi-pi'), which being
enclosed by a little picket of canes, gave it somewhat the appearance of
a verandah. The frame of the house was constructed of large bamboos
planted uprightly, and secured together at intervals by transverse stalks of
the light wood of the habiscus, lashed with thongs of bark. The rear of
the tenement—built up with successive ranges of cocoanut boughs bound one
upon another, with their leaflets cunningly woven together—inclined a little
from the vertical, and extended from the extreme edge of the 'pi-pi' to
about twenty feet from its surface; whence the shelving roof—thatched with
the long tapering leaves of the palmetto—sloped steeply off to within about
five feet of the floor; leaving the eaves drooping with tassel-like
appendages over the front of the habitation. This was constructed of
light and elegant canes in a kind of open screenwork, tastefully adorned
with bindings of variegated sinnate, which served to hold together its
various parts. The sides of the house were similarly built; thus
presenting three quarters for the circulation of the air, while the whole was
impervious to the rain.
In length this picturesque building was perhaps twelve
yards, while in breadth it could not have exceeded as many feet.
So much for the exterior; which, with its wire-like reed-twisted sides,
not a little reminded me of an immense aviary.
Stooping a little, you passed through a narrow aperture in
its front; and facing you, on entering, lay two long, perfectly straight,
and well-polished trunks of the cocoanut tree, extending the full length of
the dwelling; one of them placed closely against the rear, and the other
lying parallel with it some two yards distant, the interval between them
being spread with a multitude of gaily-worked mats, nearly all of a
different pattern. This space formed the common couch and lounging
place of the natives, answering the purpose of a divan in
Oriental countries. Here would they slumber through the hours of
the night, and recline luxuriously during the greater part of
the day. The remainder of the floor presented only the cool
shining surfaces of the large stones of which the 'pi-pi' was
composed.
From the ridge-pole of the house hung suspended a number of
large packages enveloped in coarse tappa; some of which contained festival
dresses, and various other matters of the wardrobe, held in high
estimation. These were easily accessible by means of a line, which,
passing over the ridge-pole, had one end attached to a bundle, while with the
other, which led to the side of the dwelling and was there secured, the
package could be lowered or elevated at pleasure.
Against the farther wall of the house were arranged in
tasteful figures a variety of spears and javelins, and other implements
of savage warfare. Outside of the habitation, and built upon
the piazza-like area in its front, was a little shed used as a sort of
larder or pantry, and in which were stored various articles of domestic use
and convenience. A few yards from the pi-pi was a large shed built of
cocoanut boughs, where the process of preparing the 'poee-poee' was carried
on, and all culinary operations attended to.
Thus much for the house, and its appurtenances; and it will
be readily acknowledged that a more commodious and appropriate dwelling
for the climate and the people could not possibly be devised. It was
cool, free to admit the air, scrupulously clean, and elevated above the
dampness and impurities of the ground.
But now to sketch the inmates; and here I claim for my
tried servitor and faithful valet Kory-Kory the precedence of a
first description. As his character will be gradually unfolded in
the course of my narrative, I shall for the present content myself with
delineating his personal appearance. Kory-Kory, though the most devoted
and best natured serving-man in the world, was, alas! a hideous object
to look upon. He was some twenty-five years of age, and about six feet
in height, robust and well made, and of the most extraordinary aspect.
His head was carefully shaven with the exception of two circular spots, about
the size of a dollar, near the top of the cranium, where the
hair, permitted to grow of an amazing length, was twisted up in
two prominent knots, that gave him the appearance of being decorated with
a pair of horns. His beard, plucked out by the root from every other
part of his face, was suffered to droop in hairy pendants, two of which
garnished his under lip, and an equal number hung from the extremity of his
chin.
Kory-Kory, with a view of improving the handiwork of nature,
and perhaps prompted by a desire to add to the engaging expression of his
countenance, had seen fit to embellish his face with three broad longitudinal
stripes of tattooing, which, like those country roads that go straight
forward in defiance of all obstacles, crossed his nasal organ, descended into
the hollow of his eyes, and even skirted the borders of his mouth.
Each completely spanned his physiognomy; one extending in a line with his
eyes, another crossing the face in the vicinity of the nose, and the third
sweeping along his lips from ear to ear. His countenance thus triply
hooped, as it were, with tattooing, always reminded me of those unhappy
wretches whom I have sometimes observed gazing out sentimentally from behind
the grated bars of a prison window; whilst the entire body of my savage
valet, covered all over with representations of birds and fishes, and a
variety of most unaccountable-looking creatures, suggested to me the idea of
a pictorial museum of natural history, or an illustrated copy of 'Goldsmith's
Animated Nature.'
But it seems really heartless in me to write thus of the
poor islander, when I owe perhaps to his unremitting attentions the very
existence I now enjoy. Kory-Kory, I mean thee no harm in what I say in
regard to thy outward adornings; but they were a little curious to my
unaccustomed sight, and therefore I dilate upon them. But to underrate
or forget thy faithful services is something I could never be guilty of, even
in the giddiest moment of my life.
The father of my attached follower was a native of
gigantic frame, and had once possessed prodigious physical powers; but
the lofty form was now yielding to the inroads of time, though the hand of
disease seemed never to have been laid upon the aged warrior.
Marheyo—for such was his name—appeared to have retired from all active
participation in the affairs of the valley, seldom or never accompanying the
natives in their various expeditions; and employing the greater part of his
time in throwing up a little shed just outside the house, upon which
he was engaged to my certain knowledge for four months, without appearing
to make any sensible advance. I suppose the old gentleman was in his
dotage, for he manifested in various ways the characteristics which mark this
particular stage of life.
I remember in particular his having a choice pair
of ear-ornaments, fabricated from the teeth of some sea-monster.
These he would alternately wear and take off at least fifty times in the
course of the day, going and coming from his little hut on each occasion with
all the tranquillity imaginable. Sometimes slipping them through the
slits in his ears, he would seize his spear—which in length and slightness
resembled a fishing-pole—and go stalking beneath the shadows of
the neighbouring groves, as if about to give a hostile meeting to some
cannibal knight. But he would soon return again, and hiding his weapon
under the projecting eaves of the house, and rolling his clumsy trinkets
carefully in a piece of tappa, would resume his more pacific operations as
quietly as if he had never interrupted them.
But despite his eccentricities, Marheyo was a most paternal
and warm-hearted old fellow, and in this particular not a little resembled
his son Kory-Kory. The mother of the latter was the mistress of the
family, and a notable housewife, and a most industrious old lady she
was. If she did not understand the art of making jellies, jams,
custard, tea-cakes, and such like trashy affairs, she was profoundly skilled
in the mysteries of preparing 'amar', 'poee-poee', and 'kokoo', with other
substantial matters.
She was a genuine busy-body; bustling about the house like
a country landlady at an unexpected arrival; for ever giving the young
girls tasks to perform, which the little hussies as often neglected; poking
into every corner, and rummaging over bundles of old tappa, or making a
prodigious clatter among the calabashes. Sometimes she might have been
seen squatting upon her haunches in front of a huge wooden basin, and
kneading poee-poee with terrific vehemence, dashing the stone pestle
about as if she would shiver the vessel into fragments; on
other occasions, galloping about the valley in search of a particular kind
of leaf, used in some of her recondite operations, and returning home,
toiling and sweating, with a bundle of it, under which most women would have
sunk.
To tell the truth, Kory-Kory's mother was the only
industrious person in all the valley of Typee; and she could not
have employed herself more actively had she been left an
exceedingly muscular and destitute widow, with an inordinate ate supply
of young children, in the bleakest part of the civilized world.
There was not the slightest necessity for the greater portion of the
labour performed by the old lady: but she seemed to work from some
irresistible impulse; her limbs continually swaying to and fro, as if there
were some indefatigable engine concealed within her body which kept her in
perpetual motion.
Never suppose that she was a termagant or a shrew for all
this; she had the kindliest heart in the world, and acted towards me
in particular in a truly maternal manner, occasionally putting some little
morsel of choice food into my hand, some outlandish kind of savage sweetmeat
or pastry, like a doting mother petting a sickly urchin with tarts and sugar
plums. Warm indeed are my remembrances of the dear, good, affectionate
old Tinor!
Besides the individuals I have mentioned, there belonged to
the household three young men, dissipated, good-for-nothing, roystering
blades of savages, who were either employed in prosecuting love affairs with
the maidens of the tribe, or grew boozy on 'arva' and tobacco in the company
of congenial spirits, the scapegraces of the valley.
Among the permanent inmates of the house were likewise
several lovely damsels, who instead of thrumming pianos and
reading novels, like more enlightened young ladies, substituted for
these employments the manufacture of a fine species of tappa; but for the
greater portion of the time were skipping from house to house, gadding and
gossiping with their acquaintances.
From the rest of these, however, I must except the
beauteous nymph Fayaway, who was my peculiar favourite. Her free
pliant figure was the very perfection of female grace and beauty.
Her complexion was a rich and mantling olive, and when watching the glow
upon her cheeks I could almost swear that beneath the transparent medium
there lurked the blushes of a faint vermilion.
The face of this girl was a rounded oval, and each feature
as perfectly formed as the heart or imagination of man could
desire.
Her full lips, when parted with a smile, disclosed teeth
of dazzling whiteness and when her rosy mouth opened with a burst
of merriment, they looked like the milk-white seeds of the 'arta,' a fruit
of the valley, which, when cleft in twain, shows them reposing in rows on
each side, imbedded in the red and juicy pulp. Her hair of the deepest
brown, parted irregularly in the middle, flowed in natural ringlets over her
shoulders, and whenever she chanced to stoop, fell over and hid from view
her lovely bosom. Gazing into the depths of her strange blue
eyes, when she was in a contemplative mood, they seemed most placid
yet unfathomable; but when illuminated by some lively emotion, they beamed
upon the beholder like stars. The hands of Fayaway were as soft and
delicate as those of any countess; for an entire exemption from rude labour
marks the girlhood and even prime of a Typee woman's life. Her feet,
though wholly exposed, were as diminutive and fairly shaped as those which
peep from beneath the skirts of a Lima lady's dress. The skin of this
young creature, from continual ablutions and the use of mollifying ointments,
was inconceivably smooth and soft.
I may succeed, perhaps, in particularizing some of the
individual features of Fayaway's beauty, but that general loveliness
of appearance which they all contributed to produce I will not attempt to
describe. The easy unstudied graces of a child of nature like this,
breathing from infancy an atmosphere of perpetual summer, and nurtured by the
simple fruits of the earth; enjoying a perfect freedom from care and anxiety,
and removed effectually from all injurious tendencies, strike the eye in
a manner which cannot be pourtrayed. This picture is no
fancy sketch; it is drawn from the most vivid recollections of the person
delineated.
Were I asked if the beauteous form of Fayaway was altogether
free from the hideous blemish of tattooing, I should be constrained
to answer that it was not. But the practitioners of the
barbarous art, so remorseless in their inflictions upon the brawny limbs
of the warriors of the tribe, seem to be conscious that it needs not the
resources of their profession to augment the charms of the maidens of the
vale.
The females are very little embellished in this way, and
Fayaway, and all the other young girls of her age, were even less so
than those of their sex more advanced in years. The reason of
this peculiarity will be alluded to hereafter. All the tattooing
that the nymph in question exhibited upon her person may be
easily described. Three minute dots, no bigger than
pin-heads, decorated each lip, and at a little distance were not at
all discernible. Just upon the fall of the shoulder were drawn
two parallel lines half an inch apart, and perhaps three inches in length,
the interval being filled with delicately executed figures. These
narrow bands of tattooing, thus placed, always reminded me of those stripes
of gold lace worn by officers in undress, and which are in lieu of epaulettes
to denote their rank.
Thus much was Fayaway tattooed. The audacious hand which
had gone so far in its desecrating work stopping short, apparently wanting
the heart to proceed.
But I have omitted to describe the dress worn by this nymph
of the valley.
Fayaway—I must avow the fact—for the most part clung to
the primitive and summer garb of Eden. But how becoming the
costume!
It showed her fine figure to the best possible advantage;
and nothing could have been better adapted to her peculiar style
of beauty. On ordinary occasions she was habited precisely as I have
described the two youthful savages whom we had met on first entering the
valley. At other times, when rambling among the groves, or visiting at
the houses of her acquaintances, she wore a tunic of white tappa, reaching
from her waist to a little below the knees; and when exposed for any length
of time to the sun, she invariably protected herself from its rays by a
floating mantle of—the same material, loosely gathered about the
person. Her gala dress will be described hereafter.
As the beauties of our own land delight in bedecking
themselves with fanciful articles of jewellery, suspending them from
their ears, hanging them about their necks, and clasping them around their
wrists; so Fayaway and her companions were in the habit of ornamenting
themselves with similar appendages.
Flora was their jeweller. Sometimes they wore necklaces
of small carnation flowers, strung like rubies upon a fibre of tappa,
or displayed in their ears a single white bud, the stem thrust backward
through the aperture, and showing in front the delicate petals folded
together in a beautiful sphere, and looking like a drop of the purest
pearl. Chaplets too, resembling in their arrangement the strawberry
coronal worn by an English peeress, and composed of intertwined leaves and
blossoms, often crowned their temples; and bracelets and anklets of the same
tasteful pattern were frequently to be seen. Indeed, the maidens of
the island were passionately fond of flowers, and never wearied
of decorating their persons with them; a lovely trait in their character,
and one that ere long will be more fully alluded to.
Though in my eyes, at least, Fayaway was indisputably
the loveliest female I saw in Typee, yet the description I have given of
her will in some measure apply to nearly all the youthful portion of her sex
in the valley. Judge ye then, reader, what beautiful creatures they
must have been.
CHAPTER TWELVE
OFFICIOUSNESS OF KORY-KORY—HIS DEVOTION—A BATH IN
THE STREAM—WANT OF REFINEMENT OF THE TYPEE DAMSELS—STROLL WITH MEHEVI—A
TYPEE HIGHWAY—THE TABOO GROVES—THE HOOLAH HOOLAH GROUND—THE TI—TIMEWORN
SAVAGES—HOSPITALITY OF MEHEVI—MIDNIGHT MUSINGS—ADVENTURES IN THE
DARK—DISTINGUISHED HONOURS PAID TO THE VISITORS—STRANGE PROCESSION AND
RETURN TO THE HOUSE OF MARHEYO
WHEN Mehevi had departed from the house, as related in
the preceding chapter, Kory-Kory commenced the functions of the
post assigned him. He brought out, various kinds of food; and, as
if I were an infant, insisted upon feeding me with his own hands. To this
procedure I, of course, most earnestly objected, but in vain; and having laid
a calabash of kokoo before me, he washed his fingers in a vessel of water,
and then putting his hands into the dish and rolling the food into little
balls, put them one after another into my mouth. All my remonstrances
against this measure only provoked so great a clamour on his part, that I
was obliged to acquiesce; and the operation of feeding being
thus facilitated, the meal was quickly despatched. As for Toby,
he was allowed to help himself after his own fashion.
The repast over, my attendant arranged the mats for repose,
and, bidding me lie down, covered me with a large robe of tappa, at the
same time looking approvingly upon me, and exclaiming 'Ki-Ki, nuee nuee,
ah! moee moee motarkee' (eat plenty, ah! sleep very good).
The philosophy of this sentiment I did not pretend to question; for deprived
of sleep for several preceding nights, and the pain of my limb having much
abated, I now felt inclined to avail myself of the opportunity afforded
me.
The next morning, on waking, I found Kory-Kory stretched out
on one side of me, while my companion lay upon the other. I
felt sensibly refreshed after a night of sound repose, and
immediately agreed to the proposition of my valet that I should repair to
the water and wash, although dreading the suffering that the
exertion might produce. From this apprehension, however, I was
quickly relieved; for Kory-Kory, leaping from the pi-pi, and then
backing himself up against it, like a porter in readiness to shoulder
a trunk, with loud vociferations and a superabundance of gestures, gave me
to understand that I was to mount upon his back and be thus transported to
the stream, which flowed perhaps two hundred yards from the
house.
Our appearance upon the verandah in front of the habitation
drew together quite a crowd, who stood looking on and conversing with one
another in the most animated manner. They reminded one of a group of
idlers gathered about the door of a village tavern when the equipage of some
distinguished traveller is brought round previously to his departure.
As soon as I clasped my arms about the neck of the devoted fellow, and he
jogged off with me, the crowd—composed chiefly of young girls and
boys—followed after, shouting and capering with infinite glee, and
accompanied us to the banks of the stream.
On gaining it, Kory-Kory, wading up to his hips in the
water, carried me half way across, and deposited me on a smooth
black stone which rose a few inches above the surface. The
amphibious rabble at our heels plunged in after us, and climbing to
the summit of the grass-grown rocks with which the bed of the brook was
here and there broken, waited curiously to witness our morning
ablutions.
Somewhat embarrassed by the presence of the female portion of
the company, and feeling my cheeks burning with bashful timidity, I formed
a primitive basin by joining my hands together, and cooled my blushes in the
water it contained; then removing my frock, bent over and washed myself down
to my waist in the stream. As soon as Kory-Kory comprehended from my
motions that this was to be the extent of my performance, he appeared
perfectly aghast with astonishment, and rushing towards me, poured out a
torrent of words in eager deprecation of so limited an
operation, enjoining me by unmistakeable signs to immerse my whole
body. To this I was forced to consent; and the honest fellow regarding
me as a froward, inexperienced child, whom it was his duty to serve at the
risk of offending, lifted me from the rocks, and tenderly bathed my
limbs. This over, and resuming my seat, I could not avoid bursting into
admiration of the scene around me.
From the verdant surfaces of the large stones that lay
scattered about, the natives were now sliding off into the water,
diving and ducking beneath the surface in all directions—the young girls
springing buoyantly into the air, and revealing their naked forms to the
waist, with their long tresses dancing about their shoulders, their eyes
sparkling like drops of dew in the sun, and their gay laughter pealing forth
at every frolicsome incident. On the afternoon of the day that I took my
first bath in the valley, we received another visit from Mehevi. The
noble savage seemed to be in the same pleasant mood, and was quite as
cordial in his manner as before. After remaining about an hour, he
rose from the mats, and motioning to leave the house, invited Toby
and myself to accompany him. I pointed to my leg; but Mehevi in
his turn pointed to Kory-Kory, and removed that objection; so, mounting
upon the faithful fellow's shoulders again—like the old man of the sea
astride of Sindbad—I followed after the chief.
The nature of the route we now pursued struck me more
forcibly than anything I had yet seen, as illustrating the
indolent disposition of the islanders. The path was obviously the
most beaten one in the valley, several others leading from each side into
it, and perhaps for successive generations it had formed the principal avenue
of the place. And yet, until I grew more familiar with its impediments,
it seemed as difficult to travel as the recesses of a wilderness. Part
of it swept around an abrupt rise of ground, the surface of which was broken
by frequent inequalities, and thickly strewn with projecting masses of
rocks, whose summits were often hidden from view by the drooping foliage of
the luxurious vegetation. Sometimes directly over, sometimes evading
these obstacles with a wide circuit, the path wound along; one moment
climbing over a sudden eminence smooth with continued wear, then descending
on the other side into a steep glen, and crossing the flinty channel of a
brook. Here it pursued the depths of a glade, occasionally obliging you to
stoop beneath vast horizontal branches; and now you stepped over huge trunks
and boughs that lay rotting across the track.
Such was the grand thoroughfare of Typee. After
proceeding a little distance along it—Kory-Kory panting and blowing with
the weight of his burden—I dismounted from his back, and grasping the
long spear of Mehevi in my hand, assisted my steps over the numerous
obstacles of the road; preferring this mode of advance to one which, from the
difficulties of the way, was equally painful to myself and my wearied
servitor.
Our journey was soon at an end; for, scaling a sudden height,
we came abruptly upon the place of our destination. I wish that
it were possible to sketch in words this spot as vividly as I recollect
it.
Here were situated the Taboo groves of the valley—the scene
of many a prolonged feast, of many a horrid rite. Beneath the
dark shadows of the consecrated bread-fruit trees there reigned a solemn
twilight—a cathedral-like gloom. The frightful genius of pagan worship
seemed to brood in silence over the place, breathing its spell upon every
object around. Here and there, in the depths of these awful shades,
half screened from sight by masses of overhanging foliage, rose the
idolatrous altars of the savages, built of enormous blocks of black and
polished stone, placed one upon another, without cement, to the height of
twelve or fifteen feet, and surmounted by a rustic open temple,
enclosed with a low picket of canes, within which might be seen,
in various stages of decay, offerings of bread-fruit and cocoanuts, and
the putrefying relics of some recent sacrifice.
In the midst of the wood was the hallowed 'Hoolah
Hoolah' ground—set apart for the celebration of the fantastical religious
ritual of these people—comprising an extensive oblong pi-pi, terminating at
either end in a lofty terraced altar, guarded by ranks of hideous wooden
idols, and with the two remaining sides flanked by ranges of bamboo sheds,
opening towards the interior of the quadrangle thus formed. Vast
trees, standing in the middle of this space, and throwing over it
an umbrageous shade, had their massive trunks built round with slight
stages, elevated a few feet above the ground, and railed in with canes,
forming so many rustic pulpits, from which the priests harangued their
devotees.
This holiest of spots was defended from profanation by
the strictest edicts of the all-pervading 'taboo', which condemned
to instant death the sacrilegious female who should enter or touch its
sacred precincts, or even so much as press with her feet the ground made holy
by the shadows that it cast.
Access was had to the enclosure through an embowered entrance,
on one side, facing a number of towering cocoanut trees, planted
at intervals along a level area of a hundred yards. At the
further extremity of this space was to be seen a building of
considerable size, reserved for the habitation of the priests and
religious attendants of the groves.
In its vicinity was another remarkable edifice, built as
usual upon the summit of a pi-pi, and at least two hundred feet in length,
though not more than twenty in breadth. The whole front of this latter
structure was completely open, and from one end to the other ran a narrow
verandah, fenced in on the edge of the pi-pi with a picket of canes.
Its interior presented the appearance of an immense lounging place, the
entire floor being strewn with successive layers of mats, lying between
parallel trunks of cocoanut trees, selected for the purpose from
the straightest and most symmetrical the vale afforded.
To this building, denominated in the language of the natives
the 'Ti', Mehevi now conducted us. Thus far we had been
accompanied by a troop of the natives of both sexes; but as soon as
we approached its vicinity, the females gradually separated themselves
from the crowd, and standing aloof, permitted us to pass on. The
merciless prohibitions of the taboo extended likewise to this edifice, and
were enforced by the same dreadful penalty that secured the Hoolah-Hoolah
ground from the imaginary pollution of a woman's presence.
On entering the house, I was surprised to see six muskets
ranged against the bamboo on one side, from the barrels of which depended
as many small canvas pouches, partly filled with powder.
Disposed about these muskets, like the cutlasses that
decorate the bulkhead of a man-of-war's cabin, were a great variety
of rude spears and paddles, javelins, and war-clubs. This then, said
I to Toby, must be the armoury of the tribe.
As we advanced further along the building, we were struck
with the aspect of four or five hideous old wretches, on whose decrepit
forms time and tattooing seemed to have obliterated every trace of
humanity. Owing to the continued operation of this latter process,
which only terminates among the warriors of the island after all the figures
stretched upon their limbs in youth have been blended together—an effect,
however, produced only in cases of extreme longevity—the bodies of these men
were of a uniform dull green colour—the hue which the tattooing gradually
assumes as the individual advances in age. Their skin had a frightful
scaly appearance, which, united with its singular colour, made their limbs
not a little resemble dusty specimens of verde-antique. Their flesh, in
parts, hung upon them in huge folds, like the overlapping plaits on the flank
of a rhinoceros. Their heads were completely bald, whilst their faces
were puckered into a thousand wrinkles, and they presented no vestige of a
beard. But the most remarkable peculiarity about them was the
appearance of their feet; the toes, like the radiating lines of the mariner's
compass, pointed to every quarter of the horizon. This was doubtless
attributable to the fact, that during nearly a hundred years of existence the
said toes never had been subjected to any artificial confinement, and in
their old age, being averse to close neighbourhood, bid one another keep
open order.
These repulsive-looking creatures appeared to have lost the
use of their lower limbs altogether; sitting upon the floor cross-legged
in a state of torpor. They never heeded us in the least, scarcely
looking conscious of our presence, while Mehevi seated us upon the mats, and
Kory-Kory gave utterance to some unintelligible gibberish.
In a few moments a boy entered with a wooden trencher
of poee-poee; and in regaling myself with its contents I was obliged again
to submit to the officious intervention of my indefatigable servitor.
Various other dishes followed, the chief manifesting the most hospitable
importunity in pressing us to partake, and to remove all bashfulness on our
part, set us no despicable example in his own person.
The repast concluded, a pipe was lighted, which passed from
mouth to mouth, and yielding to its soporific influence, the quiet of the
place, and the deepening shadows of approaching night, my companion and I
sank into a kind of drowsy repose, while the chief and Kory-Kory seemed to be
slumbering beside us.
I awoke from an uneasy nap, about midnight, as I supposed;
and, raising myself partly from the mat, became sensible that we
were enveloped in utter darkness. Toby lay still asleep, but our
late companions had disappeared. The only sound that interrupted
the silence of the place was the asthmatic breathing of the old men I have
mentioned, who reposed at a little distance from us. Besides them, as
well as I could judge, there was no one else in the house.
Apprehensive of some evil, I roused my comrade, and we
were engaged in a whispered conference concerning the
unexpected withdrawal of the natives when all at once, from the depths
of the grove, in full view of us where we lay, shoots of flame were seen
to rise, and in a few moments illuminated the surrounding trees, casting, by
contrast, into still deeper gloom the darkness around us.
While we continued gazing at this sight, dark figures
appeared moving to and fro before the flames; while others, dancing
and capering about, looked like so many demons.
Regarding this new phenomenon with no small degree
of trepidation, I said to my companion, 'What can all this
mean, Toby?'
'Oh, nothing,' replied he; 'getting the fire ready, I
suppose.'
'Fire!' exclaimed I, while my heart took to beating like a
trip- hammer, 'what fire?'
'Why, the fire to cook us, to be sure, what else would
the cannibals be kicking up such a row about if it were not
for that?'
'Oh, Toby! have done with your jokes; this is no time
for them; something is about to happen, I feel confident.'
'Jokes, indeed?' exclaimed Toby indignantly. 'Did
you ever hear me joke? Why, for what do you suppose the devils have
been feeding us up in this kind of style during the last three
days, unless it were for something that you are too much frightened at to
talk about? Look at that Kory-Kory there!—has he not been stuffing you
with his confounded mushes, just in the way they treat swine before they kill
them? Depend upon it, we will be eaten this blessed night, and there is
the fire we shall be roasted by.'
This view of the matter was not at all calculated to allay
my apprehensions, and I shuddered when I reflected that we were indeed at
the mercy of a tribe of cannibals, and that the dreadful contingency to which
Toby had alluded was by no means removed beyond the bounds of
possibility.
'There! I told you so! they are coming for us!'
exclaimed my companion the next moment, as the forms of four of the
islanders were seen in bold relief against the illuminated
back-ground mounting the pi-pi and approaching towards us.
They came on noiselessly, nay stealthily, and glided
along through the gloom that surrounded us as if about to spring upon some
object they were fearful of disturbing before they should make sure of
it.—Gracious heaven! the horrible reflections which crowded upon me
that moment.—A cold sweat stood upon my brow, and spell-bound with terror I
awaited my fate!
Suddenly the silence was broken by the well-remembered tones
of Mehevi, and at the kindly accents of his voice my fears
were immediately dissipated. 'Tommo, Toby, ki ki!' (eat). He
had waited to address us, until he had assured himself that we were both
awake, at which he seemed somewhat surprised.
'Ki ki! is it?' said Toby in his gruff tones;
'Well, cook us first, will you—but what's this?' he added, as another
savage appeared, bearing before him a large trencher of wood
containing some kind of steaming meat, as appeared from the odours
it diffused, and which he deposited at the feet of Mehevi. 'A
baked baby, I dare say I but I will have none of it, never mind what
it is.—A pretty fool I should make of myself, indeed, waked up here in
the middle of the night, stuffing and guzzling, and all to make a fat meal
for a parcel of booby-minded cannibals one of these mornings!—No, I see what
they are at very plainly, so I am resolved to starve myself into a bunch of
bones and gristle, and then, if they serve me up, they are welcome! But
I say, Tommo, you are not going to eat any of that mess there, in the dark,
are you? Why, how can you tell what it is?'
'By tasting it, to be sure,' said I, masticating a morsel
that Kory-Kory had just put in my mouth, 'and excellently good it is, too,
very much like veal.'
'A baked baby, by the soul of Captain Cook!' burst forth
Toby, with amazing vehemence; 'Veal? why there never was a calf on
the island till you landed. I tell you you are bolting
down mouthfuls from a dead Happar's carcass, as sure as you live, and no
mistake!'
Emetics and lukewarm water! What a sensation in the
abdominal region! Sure enough, where could the fiends incarnate
have obtained meat? But I resolved to satisfy myself at all
hazards; and turning to Mehevi, I soon made the ready chief
understand that I wished a light to be brought. When the taper came,
I gazed eagerly into the vessel, and recognized the mutilated remains of a
juvenile porker! 'Puarkee!' exclaimed Kory-Kory, looking complacently
at the dish; and from that day to this I have never forgotten that such is
the designation of a pig in the Typee lingo.
The next morning, after being again abundantly feasted by
the hospitable Mehevi, Toby and myself arose to depart. But
the chief requested us to postpone our intention. 'Abo, abo'
(Wait, wait), he said and accordingly we resumed our seats,
while, assisted by the zealous Kory-Kory, he appeared to be engaged
in giving directions to a number of the natives outside, who were busily
employed in making arrangements, the nature of which we could not
comprehend. But we were not left long in our ignorance, for a few
moments only had elapsed, when the chief beckoned us to approach, and we
perceived that he had been marshalling a kind of guard of honour to escort us
on our return to the house of Marheyo.
The procession was led off by two venerable-looking savages,
each provided with a spear, from the end of which streamed a pennon
of milk-white tappa. After them went several youths, bearing
aloft calabashes of poee-poee, and followed in their turn by four stalwart
fellows, sustaining long bamboos, from the tops of which hung suspended, at
least twenty feet from the ground, large baskets of green bread-fruits.
Then came a troop of boys, carrying bunches of ripe bananas, and baskets made
of the woven leaflets of cocoanut boughs, filled with the young fruit of
the tree, the naked shells stripped of their husks peeping forth from the
verdant wicker-work that surrounded them. Last of all came a burly
islander, holding over his head a wooden trencher, in which lay disposed the
remnants of our midnight feast, hidden from view, however, by a covering of
bread-fruit leaves.
Astonished as I was at this exhibition, I could not avoid
smiling at its grotesque appearance, and the associations it
naturally called up. Mehevi, it seemed, was bent on replenishing
old Marheyo's larder, fearful perhaps that without this precaution his
guests might not fare as well as they could desire.
As soon as I descended from the pi-pi, the procession
formed anew, enclosing us in its centre; where I remained part of
the time, carried by Kory-Kory, and occasionally relieving him from his
burden by limping along with spear. When we moved off in this order,
the natives struck up a musical recitative, which with various alternations,
they continued until we arrived at the place of our destination.
As we proceeded on our way, bands of young girls, darting
from the surrounding groves, hung upon our skirts, and accompanied us with
shouts of merriment and delight, which almost drowned the deep notes of the
recitative. On approaching old Marheyo's domicile, its inmates rushed
out to receive us; and while the gifts of Mehevi were being disposed of, the
superannuated warrior did the honours of his mansion with all the warmth of
hospitality evinced by an English squire when he regales his friends at
some fine old patrimonial mansion.
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
ATTEMPT TO PROCURE RELIEF FROM NUKUHEVA—PERILOUS ADVENTURE
OF TOBY IN THE HAPPAR MOUNTAINS—ELOQUENCE OF KORY-KORY
AMIDST these novel scenes a week passed away
almost imperceptibly. The natives, actuated by some mysterious
impulse, day after day redoubled their attentions to us. Their
manner towards us was unaccountable. Surely, thought I, they would
not act thus if they meant us any harm. But why this excess
of deferential kindness, or what equivalent can they imagine us capable of
rendering them for it?
We were fairly puzzled. But despite the apprehensions I
could not dispel, the horrible character imputed to these Typees appeared
to be wholly undeserved.
'Why, they are cannibals!' said Toby on one occasion when
I eulogized the tribe. 'Granted,' I replied, 'but a more
humane, gentlemanly and amiable set of epicures do not probably exist
in the Pacific.'
But, notwithstanding the kind treatment we received, I was
too familiar with the fickle disposition of savages not to feel anxious to
withdraw from the valley, and put myself beyond the reach of that fearful
death which, under all these smiling appearances, might yet menace us.
But here there was an obstacle in the way of doing so. It was idle for
me to think of moving from the place until I should have recovered from the
severe lameness that afflicted me; indeed my malady began seriously
to alarm me; for, despite the herbal remedies of the natives, it continued
to grow worse and worse. Their mild applications, though they soothed
the pain, did not remove the disorder, and I felt convinced that without
better aid I might anticipate long and acute suffering.
But how was this aid to be procured? From the surgeons
of the French fleet, which probably still lay in the bay of Nukuheva,
it might easily have been obtained, could I have made my case known to
them. But how could that be effected?
At last, in the exigency to which I was reduced, I proposed
to Toby that he should endeavour to go round to Nukuheva, and if he could
not succeed in returning to the valley by water, in one of the boats of the
squadron, and taking me off, he might at least procure me some proper
medicines, and effect his return overland.
My companion listened to me in silence, and at first did
not appear to relish the idea. The truth was, he felt impatient
to escape from the place, and wished to avail himself of our present high
favour with the natives to make good our retreat, before we should experience
some sudden alteration in their behaviour. As he could not think of
leaving me in my helpless condition, he implored me to be of good cheer;
assured me that I should soon be better, and enabled in a few days to return
with him to Nukuheva.
Added to this, he could not bear the idea of again returning
to this dangerous place; and as for the expectation of persuading the
Frenchmen to detach a boat's crew for the purpose of rescuing me from the
Typees, he looked upon it as idle; and with arguments that I could not
answer, urged the improbability of their provoking the hostilities of the
clan by any such measure; especially, as for the purpose of quieting its
apprehensions, they had as yet refrained from making any visit to the
bay. 'And even should they consent,' said Toby, 'they would only
produce a commotion in the valley, in which we might both be sacrificed
by these ferocious islanders.' This was unanswerable; but still
I clung to the belief that he might succeed in accomplishing the other
part of my plan; and at last I overcame his scruples, and he agreed to make
the attempt.
As soon as we succeeded in making the natives understand
our intention, they broke out into the most vehement opposition to the
measure, and for a while I almost despaired of obtaining their consent.
At the bare thought of one of us leaving them, they manifested the most
lively concern. The grief and consternation of Kory-Kory, in
particular, was unbounded; he threw himself into a perfect paroxysm of
gestures which were intended to convey to us not only his abhorrence of
Nukuheva and its uncivilized inhabitants, but also his astonishment that
after becoming acquainted with the enlightened Typees, we should
evince the least desire to withdraw, even for a time, from their agreeable
society.
However, I overbore his objections by appealing to my
lameness; from which I assured the natives I should speedily recover
if Toby were permitted to obtain the supplies I needed.
It was agreed that on the following morning my companion
should depart, accompanied by some one or two of the household, who should
point out to him an easy route, by which the bay might be reached before
sunset.
At early dawn of the next day, our habitation was astir.
One of the young men mounted into an adjoining cocoanut tree, and
threw down a number of the young fruit, which old Marheyo quickly stripped
of the green husks, and strung together upon a short pole. These were
intended to refresh Toby on his route.
The preparations being completed, with no little emotion I
bade my companion adieu. He promised to return in three days
at farthest; and, bidding me keep up my spirits in the interval, turned
round the corner of the pi-pi, and, under the guidance of the venerable
Marheyo, was soon out of sight. His departure oppressed me with
melancholy, and, re-entering the dwelling, I threw myself almost in despair
upon the matting of the floor.
In two hours' time the old warrior returned, and gave me
to understand that after accompanying my companion a little distance, and
showing him the route, he had left him journeying on his way.
It was about noon of this same day, a season which these
people are wont to pass in sleep, that I lay in the house, surrounded
by its slumbering inmates, and painfully affected by the strange silence
which prevailed. All at once I thought I heard a faint shout, as if
proceeding from some persons in the depth of the grove which extended in
front of our habitation.
The sounds grew louder and nearer, and gradually the whole
valley rang with wild outcries. The sleepers around me started to
their feet in alarm, and hurried outside to discover the cause of
the commotion. Kory-Kory, who had been the first to spring up,
soon returned almost breathless, and nearly frantic with the excitement
under which he seemed to be labouring. All that I could understand from
him was that some accident had happened to Toby. Apprehensive of some
dreadful calamity, I rushed out of the house, and caught sight of a
tumultuous crowd, who, with shrieks and lamentations, were just emerging from
the grove bearing in their arms some object, the sight of which
produced all this transport of sorrow. As they drew near, the
men redoubled their cries, while the girls, tossing their bare arms in the
air, exclaimed plaintively, 'Awha! awha! Toby
mukee moee!'—Alas! alas! Toby is killed!
In a moment the crowd opened, and disclosed the
apparently lifeless body of my companion home between two men, the
head hanging heavily against the breast of the foremost. The
whole face, neck, back, and bosom were covered with blood, which
still trickled slowly from a wound behind the temple. In the midst
of the greatest uproar and confusion the body was carried into the house
and laid on a mat. Waving the natives off to give room and air, I bent
eagerly over Toby, and, laying my hand upon the breast, ascertained that the
heart still beat. Overjoyed at this, I seized a calabash of water, and
dashed its contents upon his face, then wiping away the blood, anxiously
examined the wound. It was about three inches long, and on
removing the clotted hair from about it, showed the skull laid
completely bare. Immediately with my knife I cut away the heavy locks,
and bathed the part repeatedly in water.
In a few moments Toby revived, and opening his eyes for
a second—closed them again without speaking. Kory-Kory, who
had been kneeling beside me, now chafed his limbs gently with the palms of
his hands, while a young girl at his head kept fanning him, and I still
continued to moisten his lips and brow. Soon my poor comrade showed
signs of animation, and I succeeded in making him swallow from a cocoanut
shell a few mouthfuls of water.
Old Tinor now appeared, holding in her hand some simples she
had gathered, the juice of which she by signs besought me to squeeze into
the wound. Having done so, I thought it best to leave Toby undisturbed
until he should have had time to rally his faculties. Several times he opened
his lips, but fearful for his safety I enjoined silence. In the course
of two or three hours, however, he sat up, and was sufficiently recovered to
tell me what had occurred.
'After leaving the house with Marheyo,' said Toby, 'we
struck across the valley, and ascended the opposite heights.
Just beyond them, my guide informed me, lay the valley of Happar, while
along their summits, and skirting the head of the vale, was my route to
Nukuheva. After mounting a little way up the elevation my guide paused,
and gave me to understand that he could not accompany me any farther, and by
various signs intimated that he was afraid to approach any nearer
the territories of the enemies of his tribe. He however pointed
out my path, which now lay clearly before me, and bidding me farewell,
hastily descended the mountain.
'Quite elated at being so near the Happars, I pushed up
the acclivity, and soon gained its summit. It tapered to a
sharp ridge, from whence I beheld both the hostile valleys. Here I
sat down and rested for a moment, refreshing myself with
my cocoanuts. I was soon again pursuing my way along the
height, when suddenly I saw three of the islanders, who must have
just come out of Happar valley, standing in the path ahead of me.
They were each armed with a heavy spear, and one from his appearance I
took to be a chief. They sung out something, I could not understand
what, and beckoned me to come on.
'Without the least hesitation I advanced towards them, and
had approached within about a yard of the foremost, when, pointing angrily
into the Typee valley, and uttering some savage exclamation, he wheeled round
his weapon like lightning, and struck me in a moment to the ground. The
blow inflicted this wound, and took away my senses. As soon as I came
to myself, I perceived the three islanders standing a little distance off,
and apparently engaged in some violent altercation respecting
me.
'My first impulse was to run for it; but, in endeavouring
to rise, I fell back, and rolled down a little grassy precipice.
The shock seemed to rally my faculties; so, starting to my feet, I fled
down the path I had just ascended. I had no need to look behind me,
for, from the yells I heard, I knew that my enemies were in full
pursuit. Urged on by their fearful outcries, and heedless of the injury
I had received—though the blood flowing from the wound trickled over into my
eyes and almost blinded me—I rushed down the mountain side with the speed of
the wind. In a short time I had descended nearly a third of the
distance, and the savages had ceased their cries, when suddenly a
terrific howl burst upon my ear, and at the same moment a heavy
javelin darted past me as I fled, and stuck quivering in a tree close
to me. Another yell followed, and a second spear and a third
shot through the air within a few feet of my body, both of them piercing
the ground obliquely in advance of me. The fellows gave a roar of rage
and disappointment; but they were afraid, I suppose, of coming down further
into the Typee valley, and so abandoned the chase. I saw them recover
their weapons and turn back; and I continued my descent as fast as I
could.
'What could have caused this ferocious attack on the part
of these Happars I could not imagine, unless it were that they had seen me
ascending the mountain with Marheyo, and that the mere fact of coming from
the Typee valley was sufficient to provoke them.
'As long as I was in danger I scarcely felt the wound I
had received; but when the chase was over I began to suffer from it.
I had lost my hat in the flight, and the run scorched my bare head.
I felt faint and giddy; but, fearful of falling to the ground beyond the
reach of assistance, I staggered on as well as I could, and at last gained
the level of the valley, and then down I sank; and I knew nothing more until
I found myself lying upon these mats, and you stooping over me with the
calabash of water.'
Such was Toby's account of this sad affair. I afterwards
learned that, fortunately, he had fallen close to a spot where the natives
go for fuel. A party of them caught sight of him as he fell, and
sounding the alarm, had lifted him up; and after ineffectually endeavouring
to restore him at the brook, had hurried forward with him to the
house.
This incident threw a dark cloud over our prospects. It
reminded us that we were hemmed in by hostile tribes, whose territories
we could not hope to pass, on our route to Nukuheva, without encountering
the effects of their savage resentment. There appeared to be no avenue
opened to our escape but the sea, which washed the lower extremities of the
vale.
Our Typee friends availed themselves of the recent disaster
of Toby to exhort us to a due appreciation of the blessings we enjoyed
among them, contrasting their own generous reception of us with the animosity
of their neighbours. They likewise dwelt upon the cannibal propensities
of the Happars, a subject which they were perfectly aware could not fail to
alarm us; while at the same time they earnestly disclaimed all participation
in so horrid a custom. Nor did they omit to call upon us to admire
the natural loveliness of their own abode, and the lavish abundance with
which it produced all manner of luxuriant fruits; exalting it in this
particular above any of the surrounding valleys.
Kory-Kory seemed to experience so heartfelt a desire to
infuse into our minds proper views on these subjects, that, assisted
in his endeavours by the little knowledge of the language we had acquired,
he actually made us comprehend a considerable part of what he said. To
facilitate our correct apprehension of his meaning, he at first condensed his
ideas into the smallest possible compass.
'Happar keekeeno nuee,' he exclaimed, 'nuee, nuee, ki
ki kannaka!—ah! owle motarkee!' which signifies, 'Terrible
fellows those Happars!—devour an amazing quantity of men!—ah,
shocking bad!' Thus far he explained himself by a variety of
gestures, during the performance of which he would dart out of the
house, and point abhorrently towards the Happar valley; running in to
us again with a rapidity that showed he was fearful he would lose one part
of his meaning before he could complete the other; and continuing his
illustrations by seizing the fleshy part of my arm in his teeth, intimating
by the operation that the people who lived over in that direction would like
nothing better than to treat me in that manner.
Having assured himself that we were fully enlightened on
this point, he proceeded to another branch of his subject. 'Ah!
Typee mortakee!—nuee, nuee mioree—nuee, nuee wai—nuee,
nuee poee-poee—nuee, nuee kokoo—ah! nuee, nuee kiki—ah!
nuee, nuee, nuee!' Which literally interpreted as before, would
imply, 'Ah, Typee! isn't it a fine place though!—no danger of
starving here, I tell you!—plenty of bread-fruit—plenty of
water—plenty of pudding—ah! plenty of everything! ah!
heaps, heaps heaps!' All this was accompanied by a running commentary of
signs and gestures which it was impossible not to comprehend.
As he continued his harangue, however, Kory-Kory, in emulation
of our more polished orators, began to launch out rather diffusely into
other branches of his subject, enlarging probably upon the moral reflections
it suggested; and proceeded in such a strain of unintelligible and stunning
gibberish, that he actually gave me the headache for the rest of the
day.
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
A GREAT EVENT HAPPENS IN THE VALLEY—THE
ISLAND TELEGRAPH—SOMETHING BEFALLS TOBY—FAYAWAY DISPLAYS A
TENDER HEART—MELANCHOLY REFLECTIONS—MYSTERIOUS CONDUCT OF
THE ISLANDERS—DEVOTION OF KORY-KORY—A RURAL COUCH—A LUXURY—KORY-KORY
STRIKES A LIGHT A LA TYPEE
IN the course of a few days Toby had recovered from the
effects of his adventure with the Happar warriors; the wound on his
head rapidly healing under the vegetable treatment of the good Tinor.
Less fortunate than my companion however, I still continued to languish
under a complaint, the origin and nature of which were still a mystery.
Cut off as I was from all intercourse with the civilized world, and feeling
the inefficacy of anything the natives could do to relieve me; knowing, too,
that so long as I remained in my present condition, it would be impossible
for me to leave the valley, whatever opportunity might present itself; and
apprehensive that ere long we might be exposed to some caprice on the part of
the islanders, I now gave up all hopes of recovery, and became a prey to the
most gloomy thoughts. A deep dejection fell upon me, which neither the
friendly remonstrances of my companion, the devoted attentions of Kory-Kory
nor all the soothing influences of Fayaway could remove.
One morning as I lay on the mats in the house, plunged
in melancholy reverie, and regardless of everything around me, Toby, who
had left me about an hour, returned in haste, and with great glee told me to
cheer up and be of good heart; for he believed, from what was going on among
the natives, that there were boats approaching the bay.
These tidings operated upon me like magic. The hour of
our deliverance was at hand, and starting up, I was soon convinced that
something unusual was about to occur. The word 'botee! botee!' was
vociferated in all directions; and shouts were heard in the distance, at
first feebly and faintly; but growing louder and nearer at each successive
repetition, until they were caught up by a fellow in a cocoanut tree a few
yards off, who sounding them in turn, they were reiterated from a
neighbouring grove, and so died away gradually from point to point, as the
intelligence penetrated into the farthest recess of the valley. This
was the vocal telegraph of the islanders; by means of which
condensed items of information could be carried in a very few minutes
from the sea to their remotest habitation, a distance of at least eight or
nine miles. On the present occasion it was in active operation; one
piece of information following another with inconceivable
rapidity.
The greatest commotion now appeared to prevail. At every
fresh item of intelligence the natives betrayed the liveliest
interest, and redoubled the energy with which they employed themselves
in collecting fruit to sell to the expected visitors. Some
were tearing off the husks from cocoanuts; some perched in the trees were
throwing down bread-fruit to their companions, who gathered them into heaps
as they fell; while others were plying their fingers rapidly in weaving
leafen baskets in which to carry the fruit.
There were other matters too going on at the same time.
Here you would see a stout warrior polishing his spear with a bit of
old tappa, or adjusting the folds of the girdle about his waist; and there
you might descry a young damsel decorating herself with flowers, as if having
in her eye some maidenly conquest; while, as in all cases of hurry and
confusion in every part of the world, a number of individuals kept hurrying
to and fro, with amazing vigour and perseverance, doing nothing themselves,
and hindering others.
Never before had we seen the islanders in such a state of
bustle and excitement; and the scene furnished abundant evidence of
the fact—that it was only at long intervals any such events
occur.
When I thought of the length of time that might intervene
before a similar chance of escape would be presented, I bitterly lamented
that I had not the power of availing myself effectually of the present
opportunity.
From all that we could gather, it appeared that the natives
were fearful of arriving too late upon the beach, unless they
made extraordinary exertions. Sick and lame as I was, I would
have started with Toby at once, had not Kory-Kory not only refused
to carry me, but manifested the most invincible repugnance to our leaving
the neighbourhood of the house. The rest of the savages were equally
opposed to our wishes, and seemed grieved and astonished at the earnestness
of my solicitations. I clearly perceived that while my attendant
avoided all appearance of constraining my movements, he was nevertheless
determined to thwart my wishes. He seemed to me on this particular
occasion, as well as often afterwards, to be executing the orders of
some other person with regard to me, though at the same time
feeling towards me the most lively affection.
Toby, who had made up his mind to accompany the islanders
if possible, as soon as they were in readiness to depart, and who for that
reason had refrained from showing the same anxiety that I had done, now
represented to me that it was idle for me to entertain the hope of reaching
the beach in time to profit by any opportunity that might then be
presented.
'Do you not see,' said he, 'the savages themselves are fearful
of being too late, and I should hurry forward myself at once did I not
think that if I showed too much eagerness I should destroy all our hopes of
reaping any benefit from this fortunate event. If you will only
endeavour to appear tranquil or unconcerned, you will quiet their suspicions,
and I have no doubt they will then let me go with them to the beach,
supposing that I merely go out of curiosity. Should I succeed in
getting down to the boats, I will make known the condition in which I have
left you, and measures may then be taken to secure our escape.'
In the expediency of this I could not but acquiesce; and as
the natives had now completed their preparations, I watched with
the liveliest interest the reception that Toby's application might meet
with. As soon as they understood from my companion that I intended to
remain, they appeared to make no objection to his proposition, and even
hailed it with pleasure. Their singular conduct on this occasion not a
little puzzled me at the time, and imparted to subsequent events an
additional mystery.
The islanders were now to be seen hurrying along the path
which led to the sea. I shook Toby warmly by the hand, and gave him
my Payta hat to shield his wounded head from the sun, as he had lost his
own. He cordially returned the pressure of my hand, and solemnly
promising to return as soon as the boats should leave the shore, sprang from
my side, and the next minute disappeared in a turn of the grove.
In spite of the unpleasant reflections that crowded upon my
mind, I could not but be entertained by the novel and animated sight which
by now met my view. One after another the natives crowded along the
narrow path, laden with every variety of fruit. Here, you might have
seen one, who, after ineffectually endeavouring to persuade a surly porker to
be conducted in leading strings, was obliged at last to seize the perverse
animal in his arms, and carry him struggling against his naked breast, and
squealing without intermission. There went two, who at a little
distance might have been taken for the Hebrew spies, on their return
to Moses with the goodly bunch of grape. One trotted before
the other at a distance of a couple of yards, while between them, from a
pole resting on the shoulders, was suspended a huge cluster of bananas, which
swayed to and fro with the rocking gait at which they proceeded. Here
ran another, perspiring with his exertions, and bearing before him a quantity
of cocoanuts, who, fearful of being too late, heeded not the fruit that
dropped from his basket, and appeared solely intent upon reaching
his destination, careless how many of his cocoanuts kept company
with him.
In a short time the last straggler was seen hurrying on his
way, and the faint shouts of those in advance died insensibly upon
the ear. Our part of the valley now appeared nearly deserted by
its inhabitants, Kory-Kory, his aged father, and a few decrepit
old people, being all that were left.
Towards sunset the islanders in small parties began to
return from the beach, and among them, as they drew near to the house,
I sought to descry the form of my companion. But one after
another they passed the dwelling, and I caught no glimpse of him.
Supposing, however, that he would soon appear with some of the members of
the household, I quieted my apprehensions, and waited patiently to see him
advancing in company with the beautiful Fayaway. At last, I perceived
Tinor coming forward, followed by the girls and young men who usually resided
in the house of Marheyo; but with them came not my comrade, and, filled with
a thousand alarms, I eagerly sought to discover the cause of
his delay.
My earnest questions appeared to embarrass the natives
greatly. All their accounts were contradictory: one giving me
to understand that Toby would be with me in a very short time; another
that he did not know where he was; while a third, violently inveighing,
against him, assured me that he had stolen away, and would never come
back. It appeared to me, at the time, that in making these various
statements they endeavoured to conceal from me some terrible disaster, lest
the knowledge of it should overpower me.
Fearful lest some fatal calamity had overtaken him, I sought
out young Fayaway, and endeavoured to learn from her, if possible, the
truth.
This gentle being had early attracted my regard, not only
from her extraordinary beauty, but from the attractive cast of
her countenance, singularly expressive of intelligence and humanity.
Of all the natives she alone seemed to appreciate the effect which the
peculiarity of the circumstances in which we were placed had produced upon
the minds of my companion and myself. In addressing me—especially
when I lay reclining upon the mats suffering from pain—there was a
tenderness in her manner which it was impossible to misunderstand or
resist. Whenever she entered the house, the expression of her face
indicated the liveliest sympathy for me; and moving towards the place where
I lay, with one arm slightly elevated in a gesture of pity, and her large
glistening eyes gazing intently into mine, she would murmur plaintively,
'Awha! awha! Tommo,' and seat herself mournfully beside
me.
Her manner convinced me that she deeply compassionated
my situation, as being removed from my country and friends, and placed
beyond the reach of all relief. Indeed, at times I was almost led to
believe that her mind was swayed by gentle impulses hardly to be anticipated
from one in her condition; that she appeared to be conscious there were ties
rudely severed, which had once bound us to our homes; that there were sisters
and brothers anxiously looking forward to our return, who were, perhaps,
never more to behold us.
In this amiable light did Fayaway appear in my eyes; and
reposing full confidence in her candour and intelligence, I now
had recourse to her, in the midst of my alarm, with regard to
my companion.
My questions evidently distressed her. She looked round
from one to another of the bystanders, as if hardly knowing what answer
to give me. At last, yielding to my importunities, she overcame
her scruples, and gave me to understand that Toby had gone away with the
boats which had visited the bay, but had promised to return at the expiration
of three days. At first I accused him of perfidiously deserting me; but
as I grew more composed, I upbraided myself for imputing so cowardly an
action to him, and tranquillized myself with the belief that he had availed
himself, of the opportunity to go round to Nukuheva, in order to make
some arrangement by which I could be removed from the valley. At
any rate, thought I, he will return with the medicines I require,
and then, as soon as I recover, there will be no difficulty in the way of
our departure.
Consoling myself with these reflections, I lay down that night
in a happier frame of mind than I had done for some time. The
next day passed without any allusion to Toby on the part of the natives,
who seemed desirous of avoiding all reference to the subject. This
raised some apprehensions in my breast; but when night came, I congratulated
myself that the second day had now gone by, and that on the morrow Toby would
again be with me. But the morrow came and went, and my companion did
not appear. Ah! thought I, he reckons three days from the morning of
his departure,—tomorrow he will arrive. But that weary day
also closed upon me, without his return. Even yet I would
not despair; I thought that something detained him—that he was waiting
for the sailing of a boat, at Nukuheva, and that in a day or two at farthest
I should see him again. But day after day of renewed disappointment
passed by; at last hope deserted me, and I fell a victim to
despair.
Yes; thought I, gloomily, he has secured his own escape,
and cares not what calamity may befall his unfortunate comrade.
Fool that I was, to suppose that any one would willingly encounter
the perils of this valley, after having once got beyond its limits!
He has gone, and has left me to combat alone all the dangers by which I
am surrounded. Thus would I sometimes seek to derive a desperate
consolation from dwelling upon the perfidity of Toby: whilst at other times I
sunk under the bitter remorse which I felt as having by my own imprudence
brought upon myself the fate which I was sure awaited me.
At other times I thought that perhaps after all these
treacherous savages had made away with him, and thence the confusion
into which they were thrown by my questions, and their
contradictory answers, or he might be a captive in some other part of
the valley, or, more dreadful still, might have met with that fate
at which my very soul shuddered. But all these speculations
were vain; no tidings of Toby ever reached me; he had gone never
to return.
The conduct of the islanders appeared inexplicable.
All reference to my lost comrade was carefully evaded, and if at any time
they were forced to make some reply to my frequent inquiries on the subject,
they would uniformly denounce him as an ungrateful runaway, who had deserted
his friend, and taken himself off to that vile and detestable place
Nukuheva.
But whatever might have been his fate, now that he was gone
the natives multiplied their acts of kindness and attention
towards myself, treating me with a degree of deference which could
hardly have been surpassed had I been some celestial visitant.
Kory-Kory never for one moment left my side, unless it were to execute my
wishes. The faithful fellow, twice every day, in the cool of the
morning and in the evening, insisted upon carrying me to the stream, and
bathing me in its refreshing water.
Frequently in the afternoon he would carry me to a
particular part of the stream, where the beauty of the scene produced
a soothing influence upon my mind. At this place the waters
flowed between grassy banks, planted with enormous bread-fruit
trees, whose vast branches interlacing overhead, formed a leafy
canopy; near the stream were several smooth black rocks. One of
these, projecting several feet above the surface of the water, had
upon its summit a shallow cavity, which, filled with
freshly-gathered leaves, formed a delightful couch.
Here I often lay for hours, covered with a gauze-like veil
of tappa, while Fayaway, seated beside me, and holding in her hand a fan
woven from the leaflets of a young cocoanut bough, brushed aside the insects
that occasionally lighted on my face, and Kory-Kory. with a view of
chasing away my melancholy, performed a thousand antics in the water before
us.
As my eye wandered along this romantic stream, it would fall
upon the half-immersed figure of a beautiful girl, standing in
the transparent water, and catching in a little net a species
of diminutive shell-fish, of which these people are
extraordinarily fond. Sometimes a chattering group would be seated upon
the edge of a low rock in the midst of the brook, busily engaged
in thinning and polishing the shells of cocoanuts, by rubbing them briskly
with a small stone in the water, an operation which soon converts them into a
light and elegant drinking vessel, somewhat resembling goblets made of
tortoise shell.
But the tranquillizing influence of beautiful scenery, and
the exhibition of human life under so novel and charming an aspect were
not my only sources of consolation.
Every evening the girls of the house gathered about me on
the mats, and after chasing away Kory-Kory from my side—who nevertheless,
retired only to a little distance and watched their proceedings with the most
jealous attention—would anoint my whole body with a fragrant oil, squeezed
from a yellow root, previously pounded between a couple of stones, and which
in their language is denominated 'aka'. And most refreshing and
agreeable are the juices of the 'aka', when applied to ones, limbs by
the soft palms of sweet nymphs, whose bright eyes are beaming upon you
with kindness; and I used to hail with delight the daily recurrence of this
luxurious operation, in which I forgot all my troubles, and buried for the
time every feeling of sorrow.
Sometimes in the cool of the evening my devoted servitor
would lead me out upon the pi-pi in front of the house, and seating
me near its edge, protect my body from the annoyance of the insects which
occasionally hovered in the air, by wrapping me round with a large roll of
tappa. He then bustled about, and employed himself at least twenty
minutes in adjusting everything to secure my personal comfort.
Having perfected his arrangements, he would get my pipe,
and, lighting it, would hand it to me. Often he was obliged to
strike a light for the occasion, and as the mode he adopted was
entirely different from what I had ever seen or heard of before I
will describe it.
A straight, dry, and partly decayed stick of the Hibiscus,
about six feet in length, and half as many inches in diameter, with
a small, bit of wood not more than a foot long, and scarcely an inch wide,
is as invariably to be met with in every house in Typee as a box of lucifer
matches in the corner of a kitchen cupboard at home.
The islander, placing the larger stick obliquely against
some object, with one end elevated at an angle of forty-five
degrees, mounts astride of it like an urchin about to gallop off upon
a cane, and then grasping the smaller one firmly in both hands, he rubs
its pointed end slowly up and down the extent of a few inches on the
principal stick, until at last he makes a narrow groove in the wood, with an
abrupt termination at the point furthest from him, where all the dusty
particles which the friction creates are accumulated in a little
heap.
At first Kory-Kory goes to work quite leisurely, but
gradually quickens his pace, and waxing warm in the employment, drives
the stick furiously along the smoking channel, plying his hands to and fro
with amazing rapidity, the perspiration starting from every pore. As he
approaches the climax of his effort, he pants and gasps for breath, and his
eyes almost start from their sockets with the violence of his
exertions. This is the critical stage of the operation; all his
previous labours are vain if he cannot sustain the rapidity of the movement
until the reluctant spark is produced. Suddenly he stops, becoming
perfectly motionless. His hands still retain their hold of the
smaller stick, which is pressed convulsively against the further end
of the channel among the fine powder there accumulated, as if he had just
pierced through and through some little viper that was wriggling and
struggling to escape from his clutches. The next moment a delicate
wreath of smoke curls spirally into the air, the heap of dusty particles
glows with fire, and Kory-Kory, almost breathless, dismounts from his
steed.
This operation appeared to me to be the most laborious species
of work performed in Typee; and had I possessed a sufficient intimacy with
the language to have conveyed my ideas upon the subject, I should certainly
have suggested to the most influential of the natives the expediency of
establishing a college of vestals to be centrally located in the valley, for
the purpose of keeping alive the indispensable article of fire; so as to
supersede the necessity of such a vast outlay of strength and good temper, as
were usually squandered on these occasions. There might, however, be
special difficulties in carrying this plan into execution.
What a striking evidence does this operation furnish of the
wide difference between the extreme of savage and civilized life.
A gentleman of Typee can bring up a numerous family of children and give
them all a highly respectable cannibal education, with infinitely less toil
and anxiety than he expends in the simple process of striking a light; whilst
a poor European artisan, who through the instrumentality of a lucifer
performs the same operation in one second, is put to his wit's end to provide
for his starving offspring that food which the children of a Polynesian
father, without troubling their parents, pluck from the branches of every
tree around them.
CHAPTER FIFTEEN
KINDNESS OF MARHEYO AND THE REST OF THE ISLANDERS—A
FULL DESCRIPTION OF THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE—DIFFERENT MODES OF PREPARING THE
FRUIT
ALL the inhabitants of the valley treated me with great
kindness; but as to the household of Marheyo, with whom I was
now permanently domiciled, nothing could surpass their efforts to minister
to my comfort. To the gratification of my palate they paid the most
unwearied attention. They continually invited me to partake of food,
and when after eating heartily I declined the viands they continued to offer
me, they seemed to think that my appetite stood in need of some piquant
stimulant to excite its activity.
In pursuance of this idea, old Marheyo himself would hie him
away to the sea-shore by the break of day, for the purpose of collecting
various species of rare sea-weed; some of which among these people are
considered a great luxury. After a whole day spent in this employment,
he would return about nightfall with several cocoanut shells filled with
different descriptions of kelp. In preparing these for use he
manifested all the ostentation of a professed cook, although the chief
mystery of the affair appeared to consist in pouring water in
judicious quantities upon the slimy contents of his cocoanut
shells.
The first time he submitted one of these saline salads to
my critical attention I naturally thought that anything collected at such
pains must possess peculiar merits; but one mouthful was a complete dose; and
great was the consternation of the old warrior at the rapidity with which I
ejected his Epicurean treat.
How true it is, that the rarity of any particular
article enhances its value amazingly. In some part of the valley—I
know not where, but probably in the neighbourhood of the sea—the girls
were sometimes in the habit of procuring small quantities of salt, a
thimble-full or so being the result of the united labours of a party of five
or six employed for the greater part of the day. This precious
commodity they brought to the house, enveloped in multitudinous folds of
leaves; and as a special mark of the esteem in which they held me, would
spread an immense leaf on the ground, and dropping one by one a few minute
particles of the salt upon it, invite me to taste them.
From the extravagant value placed upon the article, I
verily believe, that with a bushel of common Liverpool salt all the
real estate in Typee might have been purchased. With a small pinch
of it in one hand, and a quarter section of a bread-fruit in the other,
the greatest chief in the valley would have laughed at all luxuries of a
Parisian table.
The celebrity of the bread-fruit tree, and the conspicuous
place it occupies in a Typee bill of fare, induces me to give at
some length a general description of the tree, and the various modes in
which the fruit is prepared.
The bread-fruit tree, in its glorious prime, is a grand
and towering object, forming the same feature in a Marquesan landscape
that the patriarchal elm does in New England scenery. The latter tree
it not a little resembles in height, in the wide spread of its stalwart
branches, and in its venerable and imposing aspect.
The leaves of the bread-fruit are of great size, and their
edges are cut and scolloped as fantastically as those of a lady's
lace collar. As they annually tend towards decay, they almost
rival in brilliant variety of their gradually changing hues the fleeting
shades of the expiring dolphin. The autumnal tints of our American
forests, glorious as they are, sink into nothing in comparison with this
tree.
The leaf, in one particular stage, when nearly all the
prismatic colours are blended on its surface, is often converted by
the natives into a superb and striking head-dress. The
principal fibre traversing its length being split open a
convenient distance, and the elastic sides of the aperture pressed
apart, the head is inserted between them, the leaf drooping on one
side, with its forward half turned jauntily up on the brows, and
the remaining part spreading laterally behind the ears.
The fruit somewhat resembles in magnitude and general
appearance one of our citron melons of ordinary size; but, unlike
the citron, it has no sectional lines drawn along the outside.
Its surface is dotted all over with little conical prominences, looking
not unlike the knobs, on an antiquated church door. The rind is perhaps
an eighth of an inch in thickness; and denuded of this at the time when it is
in the greatest perfection, the fruit presents a beautiful globe of white
pulp, the whole of which may be eaten, with the exception of a slender core,
which is easily removed.
The bread-fruit, however, is never used, and is indeed
altogether unfit to be eaten, until submitted in one form or other to
the action of fire.
The most simple manner in which this operation is performed,
and I think, the best, consists in placing any number of the
freshly plucked fruit, when in a particular state of greenness, among
the embers of a fire, in the same way that you would roast a potato.
After the lapse of ten or fifteen minutes, the green rind embrowns and
cracks, showing through the fissures in its sides the milk-white
interior. As soon as it cools the rind drops off, and you then have the
soft round pulp in its purest and most delicious state. Thus eaten, it
has a mild and pleasing flavour.
Sometimes after having been roasted in the fire, the
natives snatch it briskly from the embers, and permitting it to slip
out of the yielding rind into a vessel of cold water, stir up the mixture,
which they call 'bo-a-sho'. I never could endure this compound, and
indeed the preparation is not greatly in vogue among the more polite
Typees.
There is one form, however, in which the fruit is
occasionally served, that renders it a dish fit for a king. As soon as
it is taken from the fire the exterior is removed, the core extracted, and
the remaining part is placed in a sort of shallow stone mortar, and briskly
worked with a pestle of the same substance. While one person is
performing this operation, another takes a ripe cocoanut, and breaking it in
halves, which they also do very cleverly, proceeds to grate the juicy meat
into fine particles. This is done by means of a piece of
mother-of-pearl shell, lashed firmly to the extreme end of a heavy stick,
with its straight side accurately notched like a saw. The stick is
sometimes a grotesquely-formed limb of a tree, with three or four
branches twisting from its body like so many shapeless legs,
and sustaining it two or three feet from the ground.
The native, first placing a calabash beneath the nose, as
it were, of his curious-looking log-steed, for the purpose of receiving
the grated fragments as they fall, mounts astride of it as if it were a
hobby-horse, and twirling the inside of his hemispheres of cocoanut around
the sharp teeth of the mother-of-pearl shell, the pure white meat falls in
snowy showers into the receptacle provided. Having obtained a quantity
sufficient for his purpose, he places it in a bag made of the net-like
fibrous substance attached to all cocoanut trees, and compressing it
over the bread-fruit, which being now sufficiently pounded, is put into a
wooden bowl—extracts a thick creamy milk. The delicious liquid soon
bubbles round the fruit, and leaves it at last just peeping above its
surface.
This preparation is called 'kokoo', and a most
luscious preparation it is. The hobby-horse and the pestle and
mortar were in great requisition during the time I remained in the
house of Marheyo, and Kory-Kory had frequent occasion to show his skill in
their use.
But the great staple articles of food into which the
bread-fruit is converted by these natives are known respectively by the
names of Amar and Poee-Poee.
At a certain season of the year, when the fruit of the
hundred groves of the valley has reached its maturity, and hangs in golden
spheres from every branch, the islanders assemble in harvest groups, and
garner in the abundance which surrounds them.
The trees are stripped of their nodding burdens, which,
easily freed from the rind and core, are gathered together in
capacious wooden vessels, where the pulpy fruit is soon worked by a
stone pestle, vigorously applied, into a blended mass of a
doughy consistency, called by the natives 'Tutao'. This is then
divided into separate parcels, which, after being made up into
stout packages, enveloped in successive folds of leaves, and bound round
with thongs of bark, are stored away in large receptacles hollowed in the
earth, from whence they are drawn as occasion may require. In this
condition the Tutao sometimes remains for years, and even is thought to
improve by age. Before it is fit to be eaten, however, it has to
undergo an additional process. A primitive oven is scooped in the
ground, and its bottom being loosely covered with stones, a large fire is
kindled within it. As soon as the requisite degree of heat is
attained, the embers are removed, and the surface of the stones being covered
with thick layers of leaves, one of the large packages of Tutao
is deposited upon them and overspread with another layer of leaves.
The whole is then quickly heaped up with earth, and forms a sloping
mound.
The Tutao thus baked is called 'Amar'; the action of the
oven having converted it into an amber-coloured caky substance, a little
tart, but not at all disagreeable to the taste.
By another and final process the 'Amar' is changed
into 'Poee-Poee'. This transition is rapidly effected. The Amar
is placed in a vessel, and mixed with water until it gains a
proper pudding-like consistency, when, without further preparation, it is
in readiness for use. This is the form in which the 'Tutao' is
generally consumed. The singular mode of eating it I have already
described.
Were it not that the bread-fruit is thus capable of
being preserved for a length of time, the natives might be reduced to
a state of starvation; for owing to some unknown cause the trees sometimes
fail to bear fruit; and on such occasions the islanders chiefly depend upon
the supplies they have been enabled to store away.
This stately tree, which is rarely met with upon the
Sandwich Islands, and then only of a very inferior quality, and at
Tahiti does not abound to a degree that renders its fruit the
principal article of food, attains its greatest excellence in the
genial climate of the Marquesan group, where it grows to an
enormous magnitude, and flourishes in the utmost abundance.
CHAPTER SIXTEEN
MELANCHOLY CONDITION—OCCURRENCE AT THE TI—ANECDOTE
OF MARHEYO—SHAVING THE HEAD OF A WARRIOR
IN looking back to this period, and calling to remembrance
the numberless proofs of kindness and respect which I received from the
natives of the valley, I can scarcely understand how it was that, in the
midst of so many consolatory circumstances, my mind should still have been
consumed by the most dismal forebodings, and have remained a prey to the
profoundest melancholy. It is true that the suspicious circumstances
which had attended the disappearance of Toby were enough of themselves to
excite distrust with regard to the savages, in whose power I felt
myself to be entirely placed, especially when it was combined with
the knowledge that these very men, kind and respectful as they were to me,
were, after all, nothing better than a set of cannibals.
But my chief source of anxiety, and that which poisoned
every temporary enjoyment, was the mysterious disease in my leg,
which still remained unabated. All the herbal applications of
Tinor, united with the severer discipline of the old leech, and
the affectionate nursing of Kory-Kory, had failed to relieve me.
I was almost a cripple, and the pain I endured at intervals
was agonizing. The unaccountable malady showed no signs
of amendment: on the contrary, its violence increased day by day, and
threatened the most fatal results, unless some powerful means were employed
to counteract it. It seemed as if I were destined to sink under this
grievous affliction, or at least that it would hinder me from availing myself
of any opportunity of escaping from the valley.
An incident which occurred as nearly as I can estimate
about three weeks after the disappearance of Toby, convinced me that the
natives, from some reason or other, would interpose every possible obstacle
to my leaving them.
One morning there was no little excitement evinced by the
people near my abode, and which I soon discovered proceeded from a
vague report that boats, had been seen at a great distance approaching the
bay. Immediately all was bustle and animation. It so happened
that day that the pain I suffered having somewhat abated, and feeling in much
better spirits than usual, I had complied with Kory-Kory's invitation to
visit the chief Mehevi at the place called the 'Ti', which I have before
described as being situated within the precincts of the Taboo Groves.
These sacred recesses were at no great distance from Marheyo's habitation,
and lay between it and the sea; the path that conducted to the
beach passing directly in front of the Ti, and thence skirting along the
border of the groves.
I was reposing upon the mats, within the sacred building,
in company with Mehevi and several other chiefs, when the announcement was
first made. It sent a thrill of joy through my whole frame; perhaps
Toby was about to return. I rose at once to my feet, and my instinctive
impulse was to hurry down to the beach, equally regardless of the distance
that separated me from it, and of my disabled condition. As soon as
Mehevi noticed the effect the intelligence had produced upon me, and the
impatience I betrayed to reach the sea, his countenance assumed
that inflexible rigidity of expression which had so awed me on
the afternoon of our arrival at the house of Marheyo. As I
was proceeding to leave the Ti, he laid his hand upon my shoulder, and
said gravely, 'abo, abo' (wait, wait). Solely intent upon the one
thought that occupied my mind, and heedless of his request, I was brushing
past him, when suddenly he assumed a tone of authority, and told me to 'moee'
(sit down). Though struck by the alteration in his demeanour, the
excitement under which I laboured was too strong to permit me to obey the
unexpected command, and I was still limping towards the edge of the
pi-pi with Kory-Kory clinging to one arm in his efforts to restrain
me, when the natives around started to their feet, ranged themselves along
the open front of the building, while Mehevi looked at me scowlingly, and
reiterated his commands still more sternly.
It was at this moment, when fifty savage countenances
were glaring upon me, that I first truly experienced I was indeed
a captive in the valley. The conviction rushed upon me
with staggering force, and I was overwhelmed by this confirmation of my
worst fears. I saw at once that it was useless for me to resist, and
sick at heart, I reseated myself upon the mats, and for the moment abandoned
myself to despair.
I now perceived the natives one after the other hurrying past
the Ti and pursuing the route that conducted to the sea.
These savages, thought I, will soon be holding communication with some of
my own countrymen perhaps, who with ease could restore me to liberty did they
know of the situation I was in. No language can describe the
wretchedness which I felt; and in the bitterness of my soul I imprecated a
thousand curses on the perfidious Toby, who had thus abandoned me to
destruction. It was in vain that Kory-Kory tempted me with food, or
lighted my pipe, or sought to attract my attention by performing the uncouth
antics that had sometimes diverted me. I was fairly knocked down by
this last misfortune, which, much as I had feared it, I had never
before had the courage calmly to contemplate.
Regardless of everything but my own sorrow, I remained in the
Ti for several hours, until shouts proceeding at intervals from the groves
beyond the house proclaimed the return of the natives from the
beach.
Whether any boats visited the bay that morning or not, I
never could ascertain. The savages assured me that there had
not—but I was inclined to believe that by deceiving me in this
particular they sought to allay the violence of my grief. However
that might be, this incident showed plainly that the Typees intended to
hold me a prisoner. As they still treated me with the same sedulous
attention as before, I was utterly at a loss how to account for their
singular conduct. Had I been in a situation to instruct them in any of
the rudiments of the mechanic arts, or had I manifested a disposition to
render myself in any way useful among them, their conduct might have been
attributed to some adequate motive, but as it was, the matter seemed to
me inexplicable.
During my whole stay on the island there occurred but two
or three instances where the natives applied to me with the view
of availing themselves of my superior information; and these now appear so
ludicrous that I cannot forbear relating them.
The few things we had brought from Nukuheva had been done up
into a small bundle which we had carried with us in our descent to
the valley. This bundle, the first night of our arrival, I had
used as a pillow, but on the succeeding morning, opening it for
the inspection of the natives, they gazed upon the miscellaneous contents
as though I had just revealed to them a casket of diamonds, and they insisted
that so precious a treasure should be properly secured. A line was
accordingly attached to it, and the other end being passed over the
ridge-pole of the house, it was hoisted up to the apex of the roof, where it
hung suspended directly over the mats where I usually reclined. When I
desired anything from it I merely raised my finger to a bamboo beside
me, and taking hold of the string which was there fastened, lowered the
package. This was exceedingly handy, and I took care to let the natives
understand how much I applauded the invention. Of this package the
chief contents were a razor with its case, a supply of needles and thread, a
pound or two of tobacco and a few yards of bright-coloured
calico.
I should have mentioned that shortly after Toby's
disappearance, perceiving the uncertainty of the time I might be obliged
to remain in the valley—if, indeed, I ever should escape from it—and
considering that my whole wardrobe consisted of a shirt and a pair of
trousers, I resolved to doff these garments at once, in order to preserve
them in a suitable condition for wear should I again appear among civilized
beings. I was consequently obliged to assume the Typee costume, a
little altered, however, to suit my own views of propriety, and in which I
have no doubt I appeared to as much advantage as a senator of Rome enveloped
in the folds of his toga. A few folds of yellow tappa tucked
about my waist, descended to my feet in the style of a lady's petticoat,
only I did not have recourse to those voluminous paddings in the rear with
which our gentle dames are in the habit of augmenting the sublime rotundity
of their figures. This usually comprised my in-door dress; whenever I
walked out, I superadded to it an ample robe of the same material,
which completely enveloped my person, and screened it from the rays of the
sun.
One morning I made a rent in this mantle; and to show
the islanders with what facility it could be repaired, I lowered
my bundle, and taking from it a needle and thread, proceeded to stitch up
the opening. They regarded this wonderful application of science with
intense admiration; and whilst I was stitching away, old Marheyo, who was one
of the lookers-on, suddenly clapped his hand to his forehead, and rushing to
a corner of the house, drew forth a soiled and tattered strip of faded
calico which he must have procured some time or other in traffic on
the beach—and besought me eagerly to exercise a little of my art upon
it. I willingly complied, though certainly so stumpy a needle as mine
never took such gigantic strides over calico before. The repairs
completed, old Marheyo gave me a paternal hug; and divesting himself of his
'maro' (girdle), swathed the calico about his loins, and slipping the beloved
ornaments into his ears, grasped his spear and sallied out of the house, like
a valiant Templar arrayed in a new and costly suit of armour.
I never used my razor during my stay in the island, but
although a very subordinate affair, it had been vastly admired by
the Typees; and Narmonee, a great hero among them, who was exceedingly
precise in the arrangements of his toilet and the general adjustment of is
person, being the most accurately tattooed and laboriously horrified
individual in all the valley, thought it would be a great advantage to have
it applied to the already shaven crown of his head.
The implement they usually employ is a shark's tooth, which
is about as well adapted to the purpose as a one-pronged fork for pitching
hay. No wonder, then, that the acute Narmonee perceived the advantage
my razor possessed over the usual implement. Accordingly, one day he
requested as a personal favour that I would just run over his head with the
razor. In reply, I gave him to understand that it was too dull, and
could not be used to any purpose without being previously sharpened. To
assist my meaning, I went through an imaginary honing process on the
palm of my hand. Narmonee took my meaning in an instant, and
running out of the house, returned the next moment with a huge rough
mass of rock as big as a millstone, and indicated to me that that
was exactly the thing I wanted. Of course there was nothing left
for me but to proceed to business, and I began scraping away at a great
rate. He writhed and wriggled under the infliction, but, fully
convinced of my skill, endured the pain like a martyr.
Though I never saw Narmonee in battle I will, from what I
then observed, stake my life upon his courage and fortitude.
Before commencing operations, his head had presented a surface of
short bristling hairs, and by the time I had concluded my
unskilful operation it resembled not a little a stubble field after
being gone over with a harrow. However, as the chief expressed
the liveliest satisfaction at the result, I was too wise to dissent from
his opinion.
CHAPTER SEVENTEEN
IMPROVEMENT IN HEALTH AND SPIRITS—FELICITY OF THE
TYPEES—THEIR ENJOYMENTS COMPARED WITH THOSE OF MORE
ENLIGHTENED COMMUNITIES—COMPARATIVE WICKEDNESS OF CIVILIZED
AND UNENLIGHTENED PEOPLE—A SKIRMISH IN THE MOUNTAIN WITH THE WARRIORS OF
HAPPAR
DAY after day wore on, and still there was no perceptible
change in the conduct of the islanders towards me. Gradually I lost
all knowledge of the regular recurrence of the days of the week, and sunk
insensibly into that kind of apathy which ensues after some violent outburst
of despair. My limb suddenly healed, the swelling went down, the pain
subsided, and I had every reason to suppose I should soon completely recover
from the affliction that had so long tormented me.
As soon as I was enabled to ramble about the valley in
company with the natives, troops of whom followed me whenever I
sallied out of the house, I began to experience an elasticity of
mind which placed me beyond the reach of those dismal forebodings to which
I had so lately been a prey. Received wherever I went with the most
deferential kindness; regaled perpetually with the most delightful fruits;
ministered to by dark-eyed nymphs, and enjoying besides all the services of
the devoted Kory-Kory, I thought that, for a sojourn among cannibals, no man
could have well made a more agreeable one.
To be sure there were limits set to my wanderings.
Toward the sea my progress was barred by an express prohibition of
the savages; and after having made two or three ineffectual attempts to
reach it, as much to gratify my curiosity as anything else, I gave up the
idea. It was in vain to think of reaching it by stealth, since the
natives escorted me in numbers wherever I went, and not for one single moment
that I can recall to mind was I ever permitted to be alone.
The green and precipitous elevations that stood ranged around
the head of the vale where Marheyo's habitation was situated effectually
precluded all hope of escape in that quarter, even if I could have stolen
away from the thousand eyes of the savages.
But these reflections now seldom obtruded upon me; I gave
myself up to the passing hour, and if ever disagreeable thoughts arose in
my mind, I drove them away. When I looked around the verdant recess in
which I was buried, and gazed up to the summits of the lofty eminence that
hemmed me in, I was well disposed to think that I was in the 'Happy Valley',
and that beyond those heights there was naught but a world of care and
anxiety. As I extended my wanderings in the valley and grew more
familiar with the habits of its inmates, I was fain to confess that, despite
the disadvantages of his condition, the Polynesian savage, surrounded by
all the luxurious provisions of nature, enjoyed an infinitely happier, though
certainly a less intellectual existence than the self-complacent
European.
The naked wretch who shivers beneath the bleak skies, and
starves among the inhospitable wilds of Tierra-del-Fuego, might indeed
be made happier by civilization, for it would alleviate his
physical wants. But the voluptuous Indian, with every desire
supplied, whom Providence has bountifully provided with all the sources
of pure and natural enjoyment, and from whom are removed so many of the
ills and pains of life—what has he to desire at the hands
of Civilization? She may 'cultivate his mind—may elevate
his thoughts,'—these I believe are the established phrases—but will he
be the happier? Let the once smiling and populous Hawiian islands, with
their now diseased, starving, and dying natives, answer the question.
The missionaries may seek to disguise the matter as they will, but the facts
are incontrovertible; and the devoutest Christian who visits that group with
an unbiased mind, must go away mournfully asking—'Are these, alas! the
fruits of twenty-five years of enlightening?'
In a primitive state of society, the enjoyments of life,
though few and simple, are spread over a great extent, and are unalloyed;
but Civilization, for every advantage she imparts, holds a hundred evils in
reserve—the heart-burnings, the jealousies, the social rivalries, the
family dissentions, and the thousand self-inflicted discomforts of refined
life, which make up in units the swelling aggregate of human misery, are
unknown among these unsophisticated people.
But it will be urged that these shocking unprincipled
wretches are cannibals. Very true; and a rather bad trait in
their character it must be allowed. But they are such only when
they seek to gratify the passion of revenge upon their enemies; and I ask
whether the mere eating of human flesh so very far exceeds in barbarity that
custom which only a few years since was practised in enlightened England: a
convicted traitor, perhaps a man found guilty of honesty, patriotism, and
suchlike heinous crimes, had his head lopped off with a huge axe, his bowels
dragged cut and thrown into a fire; while his body, carved into four
quarters, was with his head exposed upon pikes, and permitted to rot
and fester among the public haunts of men!
The fiend-like skill we display in the invention of all manner
of death-dealing engines, the vindictiveness with which we carry on our
wars, and the misery and desolation that follow in their train, are enough of
themselves to distinguish the white civilized man as the most ferocious
animal on the face of the earth.
His remorseless cruelty is seen in many of the institutions
of our own favoured land. There is one in particular lately
adopted in one of the States of the Union, which purports to have
been dictated by the most merciful considerations. To destroy
our malefactors piece-meal, drying up in their veins, drop by drop, the
blood we are too chicken-hearted to shed by a single blow which would at once
put a period to their sufferings, is deemed to be infinitely preferable to
the old-fashioned punishment of gibbeting—much less annoying to the victim,
and more in accordance with the refined spirit of the age; and yet how
feeble is all language to describe the horrors we inflict upon
these wretches, whom we mason up in the cells of our prisons, and condemn
to perpetual solitude in the very heart of our population.
But it is needless to multiply the examples of
civilized barbarity; they far exceed in the amount of misery they cause
the crimes which we regard with such abhorrence in our less enlightened
fellow-creatures.
The term 'Savage' is, I conceive, often misapplied, and
indeed, when I consider the vices, cruelties, and enormities of every kind
that spring up in the tainted atmosphere of a feverish civilization, I am
inclined to think that so far as the relative wickedness of the parties is
concerned, four or five Marquesan Islanders sent to the United States as
Missionaries might be quite as useful as an equal number of Americans
despatched to the Islands in a similar capacity.
I once heard it given as an instance of the frightful
depravity of a certain tribe in the Pacific that they had no word in
their language to express the idea of virtue. The assertion
was unfounded; but were it otherwise, it might be met by stating
that their language is almost entirely destitute of terms to express the
delightful ideas conveyed by our endless catalogue of civilized
crimes.
In the altered frame of mind to which I have referred,
every object that presented itself to my notice in the valley struck me in
a new light, and the opportunities I now enjoyed of observing the manners of
its inmates, tended to strengthen my favourable impressions. One
peculiarity that fixed my admiration was the perpetual hilarity reigning
through the whole extent of the vale.
There seemed to be no cares, griefs, troubles, or vexations,
in all Typee. The hours tripped along as gaily as the
laughing couples down a country dance.
There were none of those thousand sources of irritation that
the ingenuity of civilized man has created to mar his own felicity.
There were no foreclosures of mortgages, no protested notes, no bills
payable, no debts of honour in Typee; no unreasonable tailors and shoemakers
perversely bent on being paid; no duns of any description and battery
attorneys, to foment discord, backing their clients up to a quarrel, and then
knocking their heads together; no poor relations, everlastingly occupying the
spare bed-chamber, and diminishing the elbow room at the family table; no
destitute widows with their children starving on the cold charities of the
world; no beggars; no debtors' prisons; no proud and hard-hearted nabobs in
Typee; or to sum up all in one word—no Money! 'That root of all evil'
was not to be found in the valley.
In this secluded abode of happiness there were no cross
old women, no cruel step-dames, no withered spinsters, no
lovesick maidens, no sour old bachelors, no inattentive husbands,
no melancholy young men, no blubbering youngsters, and no
squalling brats. All was mirth, fun and high good humour. Blue
devils, hypochondria, and doleful dumps, went and hid themselves among the
nooks and crannies of the rocks.
Here you would see a parcel of children frolicking together
the live-long day, and no quarrelling, no contention, among them.
The same number in our own land could not have played together for the
space of an hour without biting or scratching one another. There you
might have seen a throng of young females, not filled with envyings of each
other's charms, nor displaying the ridiculous affectations of gentility, nor
yet moving in whalebone corsets, like so many automatons, but
free, inartificially happy, and unconstrained.
There were some spots in that sunny vale where they
would frequently resort to decorate themselves with garlands
of flowers. To have seen them reclining beneath the shadows of
one of the beautiful groves; the ground about them strewn with freshly
gathered buds and blossoms, employed in weaving chaplets and necklaces, one
would have thought that all the train of Flora had gathered together to keep
a festival in honour of their mistress.
With the young men there seemed almost always some matter
of diversion or business on hand that afforded a constant variety
of enjoyment. But whether fishing, or carving canoes, or
polishing their ornaments, never was there exhibited the least sign
of strife or contention among them. As for the warriors,
they maintained a tranquil dignity of demeanour, journeying occasionally
from house to house, where they were always sure to be received with the
attention bestowed upon distinguished guests. The old men, of whom
there were many in the vale, seldom stirred from their mats, where they would
recline for hours and hours, smoking and talking to one another with all the
garrulity of age.
But the continual happiness, which so far as I was able to
judge appeared to prevail in the valley, sprang principally from
that all-pervading sensation which Rousseau has told us be at one
time experienced, the mere buoyant sense of a healthful
physical existence. And indeed in this particular the Typees had
ample reason to felicitate themselves, for sickness was almost
unknown. During the whole period of my stay I saw but one invalid
among them; and on their smooth skins you observed no blemish or mark of
disease.
The general repose, however, upon which I have just
been descanting, was broken in upon about this time by an event
which proved that the islanders were not entirely exempt from
those occurrences which disturb the quiet of more
civilized communities.
Having now been a considerable time in the valley, I began
to feel surprised that the violent hostility subsisting between
its inhabitants, and those of the adjoining bay of Happar, should never
have manifested itself in any warlike encounter. Although the valiant
Typees would often by gesticulations declare their undying hatred against
their enemies, and the disgust they felt at their cannibal propensities;
although they dilated upon the manifold injuries they had received at their
hands, yet with a forbearance truly commendable, they appeared to sit down
under their grievances, and to refrain from making any reprisals.
The Happars, entrenched behind their mountains, and never even showing
themselves on their summits, did not appear to me to furnish adequate cause
for that excess of animosity evinced towards them by the heroic tenants of
our vale, and I was inclined to believe that the deeds of blood attributed to
them had been greatly exaggerated.
On the other hand, as the clamours of war had not up to
this period disturbed the serenity of the tribe, I began to distrust the
truth of those reports which ascribed so fierce and belligerent a character
to the Typee nation. Surely, thought I, all these terrible stories I
have heard about the inveteracy with which they carried on the feud, their
deadly intensity, of hatred and the diabolical malice with which they glutted
their revenge upon the inanimate forms of the slain, are nothing more
than fables, and I must confess that I experienced something like a sense
of regret at having my hideous anticipations thus disappointed. I felt
in some sort like a 'prentice boy who, going to the play in the expectation
of being delighted with a cut-and-thrust tragedy, is almost moved to tears
of disappointment at the exhibition of a genteel comedy.
I could not avoid thinking that I had fallen in with a
greatly traduced people, and I moralized not a little upon
the disadvantage of having a bad name, which in this instance
had given a tribe of savages, who were as pacific as so many lambkins, the
reputation of a confederacy of giant-killers.
But subsequent events proved that I had been a little
too premature in coming to this conclusion. One, day about
noon, happening to be at the Ti, I had lain down on the mats with several
of the chiefs, and had gradually sunk into a most luxurious siesta, when I
was awakened by a tremendous outcry, and starting up beheld the natives
seizing their spears and hurrying out, while the most puissant of the chiefs,
grasping the six muskets which were ranged against the bamboos, followed
after, and soon disappeared in the groves. These movements
were accompanied by wild shouts, in which 'Happar, Happar,'
greatly predominated. The islanders were now seen running past the
Ti, and striking across the valley to the Happar side. Presently
I heard the sharp report of a musket from the adjoining hills, and then a
burst of voices in the same direction. At this the women who had
congregated in the groves, set up the most violent clamours, as they
invariably do here as elsewhere on every occasion of excitement and alarm,
with a view of tranquillizing their own minds and disturbing other
people. On this particular occasion they made such an outrageous noise,
and continued it with such perseverance, that for awhile, had entire volleys
of musketry been fired off in the neighbouring mountains, I should not
have been able to have heard them.
When this female commotion had a little subsided I
listened eagerly for further information. At last bang went another
shot, and then a second volley of yells from the hills. Again all
was quiet, and continued so for such a length of time that I began
to think the contending armies had agreed upon a suspension
of hostilities; when pop went a third gun, followed as before with
a yell. After this, for nearly two hours nothing occurred worthy of
comment, save some straggling shouts from the hillside, sounding like the
halloos of a parcel of truant boys who had lost themselves in the
woods.
During this interval I had remained standing on the piazza of
the 'Ti,' which directly fronted the Happar mountain, and with no one near
me but Kory-Kory and the old superannuated savages I have described.
These latter never stirred from their mats, and seemed altogether unconscious
that anything unusual was going on.
As for Kory-Kory, he appeared to think that we were in the
midst of great events, and sought most zealously to impress me with a due
sense of their importance. Every sound that reached us conveyed some
momentous item of intelligence to him. At such times, as if he were
gifted with second sight, he would go through a variety of pantomimic
illustrations, showing me the precise manner in which the redoubtable Typees
were at that very moment chastising the insolence of the enemy. 'Mehevi
hanna pippee nuee Happar,' he exclaimed every five minutes, giving me to
understand that under that distinguished captain the warriors of his nation
were performing prodigies of valour.
Having heard only four reports from the muskets, I was led
to believe that they were worked by the islanders in the same manner as
the Sultan Solyman's ponderous artillery at the siege of Byzantium, one of
them taking an hour or two to load and train. At last, no sound
whatever proceeding from the mountains, I concluded that the contest had been
determined one way or the other. Such appeared, indeed, to be the case,
for in a little while a courier arrived at the 'Ti', almost breathless with
his exertions, and communicated the news of a great victory having been
achieved by his countrymen: 'Happar poo arva!—Happar poo arva!' (the cowards
had fled). Kory-Kory was in ecstasies, and commenced a vehement
harangue, which, so far as I understood it, implied that the result exactly
agreed with his expectations, and which, moreover, was intended to convince
me that it would be a perfectly useless undertaking, even for an army of
fire-eaters, to offer battle to the irresistible heroes of our valley.
In all this I of course acquiesced, and looked forward with no
little interest to the return of the conquerors, whose victory I
feared might not have been purchased without cost to themselves.
But here I was again mistaken; for Mehevi, in conducting
his warlike operations, rather inclined to the Fabian than to
the Bonapartean tactics, husbanding his resources and exposing his troops
to no unnecessary hazards. The total loss of the victors in this
obstinately contested affair was, in killed, wounded, and missing—one
forefinger and part of a thumb-nail (which the late proprietor brought along
with him in his hand), a severely contused arm, and a considerable effusion
of blood flowing from the thigh of a chief, who had received an ugly thrust
from a Happar spear. What the enemy had suffered I could not
discover, but I presume they had succeeded in taking off with them
the bodies of their slain.
Such was the issue of the battle, as far as its results
came under my observation: and as it appeared to be considered an event of
prodigious importance, I reasonably concluded that the wars of the natives
were marked by no very sanguinary traits. I afterwards learned how the
skirmish had originated. A number of the Happars had been discovered
prowling for no good purpose on the Typee side of the mountain; the alarm
sounded, and the invaders, after a protracted resistance, had been chased
over the frontier. But why had not the intrepid Mehevi carried the
war into Happar? Why had he not made a descent into the
hostile vale, and brought away some trophy of his victory—some
materials for the cannibal entertainment which I had heard
usually terminated every engagement? After all, I was much inclined
to believe that these shocking festivals must occur very rarely among the
islanders, if, indeed, they ever take place.
For two or three days the late event was the theme of
general comment; after which the excitement gradually wore away, and
the valley resumed its accustomed tranquility.
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
SWIMMING IN COMPANY WITH THE GIRLS OF THE
VALLEY—A CANOE—EFFECTS OF THE TABOO—A PLEASURE EXCURSION ON
THE POND—BEAUTIFUL FREAK OF FAYAWAY—MANTUA-MAKING—A STRANGER ARRIVES IN
THE VALLEY—HIS MYSTERIOUS CONDUCT—NATIVE ORATORY—THE INTERVIEW—ITS
RESULTS—DEPARTURE OF THE STRANGER
RETURNING health and peace of mind gave a new interest
to everything around me. I sought to diversify my time by as
many enjoyments as lay within my reach. Bathing in company
with troops of girls formed one of my chief amusements. We
sometimes enjoyed the recreation in the waters of a miniature lake,
to which the central stream of the valley expanded. This
lovely sheet of water was almost circular in figure, and about
three hundred yards across. Its beauty was indescribable. All
around its banks waved luxuriant masses of tropical foliage, soaring high
above which were seen, here and there, the symmetrical shaft of the cocoanut
tree, surmounted by its tufts of graceful branches, drooping in the air like
so many waving ostrich plumes.
The ease and grace with which the maidens of the valley
propelled themselves through the water, and their familiarity with
the element, were truly astonishing. Sometimes they might be
seen gliding along just under the surface, without apparently moving hand
or foot—then throwing themselves on their sides, they darted through the
water, revealing glimpses of their forms, as, in the course of their rapid
progress, they shot for an instant partly into the air—at one moment they
dived deep down into the water, and the next they rose bounding to the
surface.
I remember upon one occasion plunging in among a parcel of
these river-nymphs, and counting vainly on my superior strength, sought to
drag some of them under the water, but I quickly repented my temerity.
The amphibious young creatures swarmed about me like a shoal of dolphins, and
seizing hold of my devoted limbs, tumbled me about and ducked me under the
surface, until from the strange noises which rang in my ears, and the
supernatural visions dancing before my eyes, I thought I was in the land of
the spirits. I stood indeed as little chance among them as
a cumbrous whale attacked on all sides by a legion of swordfish.
When at length they relinquished their hold of me, they swam away in
every direction, laughing at my clumsy endeavours to reach them.
There was no boat on the lake; but at my solicitation and for
my special use, some of the young men attached to Marheyo's household,
under the direction of the indefatigable Kory-Kory, brought up a light and
tastefully carved canoe from the sea. It was launched upon the sheet of
water, and floated there as gracefully as a swan. But, melancholy to
relate, it produced an effect I had not anticipated. The sweet nymphs,
who had sported with me before on the lake, now all fled its vicinity.
The prohibited craft, guarded by the edicts of the 'taboo,' extended the
prohibition to the waters in which it lay.
For a few days, Kory-Kory, with one or two other
youths, accompanied me in my excursions to the lake, and while I
paddled about in my light canoe, would swim after me shouting
and gambolling in pursuit. But I as ever partial to what is
termed in the 'Young Men's Own Book'—'the society of virtuous
and intelligent young ladies;' and in the absence of the mermaids, the
amusement became dull and insipid. One morning I expressed to my
faithful servitor my desire for the return of the nymphs. The honest
fellow looked at me bewildered for a moment, and then shook his head
solemnly, and murmured 'taboo! taboo!' giving me to understand that
unless the canoe was removed I could not expect to have the young ladies back
again. But to this procedure I was averse; I not only wanted the canoe
to stay where it was, but I wanted the beauteous Fayaway to get into it,
and paddle with me about the lake. This latter
proposition completely horrified Kory-Kory's notions of propriety.
He inveighed against it, as something too monstrous to be
thought of. It not only shocked their established notions of
propriety, but was at variance with all their religious
ordinances.
However, although the 'taboo' was a ticklish thing to
meddle with, I determined to test its capabilities of resisting
an attack. I consulted the chief Mehevi, who endeavoured to dissuade
me from my object; but I was not to be repulsed; and accordingly increased
the warmth of my solicitations. At last he entered into a long, and I
have no doubt a very learned and eloquent exposition of the history and
nature of the 'taboo' as affecting this particular case; employing a variety
of most extraordinary words, which, from their amazing length
and sonorousness, I have every reason to believe were of a theological
nature. But all that he said failed to convince me: partly, perhaps,
because I could not comprehend a word that he uttered; but chiefly, that for
the life of me I could not understand why a woman would not have as much
right to enter a canoe as a man. At last he became a little more
rational, and intimated that, out of the abundant love he bore me, he
would consult with the priests and see what could be done.
How it was that the priesthood of Typee satisfied the affair
with their consciences, I know not; but so it was, and
Fayaway dispensation from this portion of the taboo was at
length procured. Such an event I believe never before had occurred
in the valley; but it was high time the islanders should be taught
a little gallantry, and I trust that the example I set them may produce
beneficial effects. Ridiculous, indeed, that the lovely creatures
should be obliged to paddle about in the water, like so many ducks, while a
parcel of great strapping fellows skimmed over its surface in their
canoes.
The first day after Fayaway's emancipation, I had a
delightful little party on the lake—the damsels' Kory-Kory, and
myself. My zealous body-servant brought from the house a calabash
of poee-poee, half a dozen young cocoanuts—stripped of their husks—three
pipes, as many yams, and me on his back a part of the way. Something of
a load; but Kory-Kory was a very strong man for his size, and by no means
brittle in the spine. We had a very pleasant day; my trusty valet plied
the paddle and swept us gently along the margin of the water, beneath the
shades of the overhanging thickets. Fayaway and I reclined in the stern
of the canoe, on the very best terms possible with one another; the gentle
nymph occasionally placing her pipe to her lip, and exhaling the mild fumes
of the tobacco, to which her rosy breath added a fresh perfume. Strange
as it may seem, there is nothing in which a young and beautiful female
appears to more advantage than in the act of smoking. How captivating
is a Peruvian lady, swinging in her gaily-woven hammock of grass, extended
between two orange-trees, and inhaling the fragrance of a choice
cigarro!
But Fayaway, holding in her delicately formed olive hand the
long yellow reed of her pipe, with its quaintly carved bowl, and every few
moments languishingly giving forth light wreaths of vapour from her mouth and
nostrils, looked still more engaging.
We floated about thus for several hours, when I looked up to
the warm, glowing, tropical sky, and then down into the transparent depths
below; and when my eye, wandering from the bewitching scenery around, fell
upon the grotesquely-tattooed form of Kory-Kory, and finally, encountered the
pensive gaze of Fayaway, I thought I had been transported to some fairy
region, so unreal did everything appear.
This lovely piece of water was the coolest spot in all
the valley, and I now made it a place of continual resort during
the hottest period of the day. One side of it lay near
the termination of a long gradually expanding gorge, which mounted to the
heights that environed the vale. The strong trade wind, met in its
course by these elevations, circled and eddied about their summits, and was
sometimes driven down the steep ravine and swept across the valley, ruffling
in its passage the otherwise tranquil surface of the lake.
One day, after we had been paddling about for some time,
I disembarked Kory-Kory, and paddled the canoe to the windward side of the
lake. As I turned the canoe, Fayaway, who was with me, seemed all at
once to be struck with some happy idea. With a wild exclamation of
delight, she disengaged from her person the ample robe of tappa which was
knotted over her shoulder (for the purpose of shielding her from the sun),
and spreading it out like a sail, stood erect with upraised arms in the head
of the canoe. We American sailors pride ourselves upon our straight,
clean spars, but a prettier little mast than Fayaway made was
never shipped aboard of any craft.
In a moment the tappa was distended by the breeze—the long
brown tresses of Fayaway streamed in the air—and the canoe glided rapidly
through the water, and shot towards the shore. Seated in the stern, I
directed its course with my paddle until it dashed up the soft sloping bank,
and Fayaway, with a light spring alighted on the ground; whilst Kory-Kory,
who had watched our manoeuvres with admiration, now clapped his hands in
transport, and shouted like a madman. Many a time afterwards was this
feat repeated.
If the reader has not observed ere this that I was the
declared admirer of Miss Fayaway, all I can say is that he is
little conversant with affairs of the heart, and I certainly shall
not trouble myself to enlighten him any farther. Out of the calico
I had brought from the ship I made a dress for this lovely girl. In
it she looked, I must confess, something like an opera-dancer.
The drapery of the latter damsel generally commences a
little above the elbows, but my island beauty's began at the waist,
and terminated sufficiently far above the ground to reveal the
most bewitching ankle in the universe.
The day that Fayaway first wore this robe was rendered
memorable by a new acquaintance being introduced to me. In the
afternoon I was lying in the house when I heard a great uproar outside;
but being by this time pretty well accustomed to the wild halloos which
were almost continually ringing through the valley, I paid little attention
to it, until old Marheyo, under the influence of some strange excitement,
rushed into my presence and communicated the astounding tidings, 'Marnoo
pemi!' which being interpreted, implied that an individual by the name of
Marnoo was approaching.
My worthy old friend evidently expected that this
intelligence would produce a great effect upon me, and for a time he
stood earnestly regarding me, as if curious to see how I should
conduct myself, but as I remained perfectly unmoved, the old
gentleman darted out of the house again, in as great a hurry as he
had entered it.
'Marnoo, Marnoo,' cogitated I, 'I have never heard that
name before. Some distinguished character, I presume, from
the prodigious riot the natives are making;' the tumultuous noise drawing
nearer and nearer every moment, while 'Marnoo!—Marnoo!' was shouted by every
tongue.
I made up my mind that some savage warrior of consequence,
who had not yet enjoyed the honour of an audience, was desirous of paying
his respects on the present occasion. So vain had I become by the
lavish attention to which I had been accustomed, that I felt half inclined,
as a punishment for such neglect, to give this Marnoo a cold reception, when
the excited throng came within view, convoying one of the most striking
specimens of humanity that I ever beheld.
The stranger could not have been more than twenty-five years
of age, and was a little above the ordinary height; had he a single hair's
breadth taller, the matchless symmetry of his form would have been
destroyed. His unclad limbs were beautifully formed; whilst the elegant
outline of his figure, together with his beardless cheeks, might have
entitled him to the distinction of standing for the statue of the Polynesian
Apollo; and indeed the oval of his countenance and the regularity of every
feature reminded one of an antique bust. But the marble repose of
art was supplied by a warmth and liveliness of expression only to be seen
in the South Sea Islander under the most favourable developments of
nature. The hair of Marnoo was a rich curling brown, and twined about
his temples and neck in little close curling ringlets, which danced up and
down continually, when he was animated in conversation. His cheek was
of a feminine softness, and his face was free from the least blemish
of tattooing, although the rest of his body was drawn all over
with fanciful figures, which—unlike the unconnected sketching usual among
these natives—appeared to have been executed in conformity with some general
design.
The tattooing on his back in particular attracted my
attention. The artist employed must indeed have excelled in his
profession. Traced along the course of the spine was accurately
delineated the slender, tapering and diamond checkered shaft of
the beautiful 'artu' tree. Branching from the stem on each side,
and disposed alternately, were the graceful branches drooping with leaves
all correctly drawn and elaborately finished. Indeed the best specimen
of the Fine Arts I had yet seen in Typee. A rear view of the stranger
might have suggested the idea of a spreading vine tacked against a garden
wall. Upon his breast, arms and legs, were exhibited an infinite
variety of figures; every one of which, however, appeared to have reference
to the general effect sought to be produced. The tattooing I have
described was of the brightest blue, and when contrasted with the light
olive-colour of the skin, produced an unique and even elegant effect.
A slight girdle of white tappa, scarcely two inches in width, but hanging
before and behind in spreading tassels, composed the entire costume of the
stranger.
He advanced surrounded by the islanders, carrying under one
arm a small roll of native cloth, and grasping in his other hand a
long and richly decorated spear. His manner was that of a
traveller conscious that he is approaching a comfortable stage in
his journey. Every moment he turned good-humouredly on the
throng around him, and gave some dashing sort of reply to their incessant
queries, which appeared to convulse them with uncontrollable
mirth.
Struck by his demeanour, and the peculiarity of his
appearance, so unlike that of the shaven-crowned and face-tattooed natives
in general, I involuntarily rose as he entered the house, and proffered
him a seat on the mats beside me. But without deigning to notice the
civility, or even the more incontrovertible fact of my existence, the
stranger passed on, utterly regardless of me, and flung himself upon the
further end of the long couch that traversed the sole apartment of Marheyo's
habitation.
Had the belle of the season, in the pride of her beauty
and power, been cut in a place of public resort by some
supercilious exquisite, she could not have felt greater indignation than I
did at this unexpected slight.
I was thrown into utter astonishment. The conduct of the
savages had prepared me to anticipate from every newcomer the
same extravagant expressions of curiosity and regard. The
singularity of his conduct, however, only roused my desire to discover
who this remarkable personage might be, who now engrossed the attention of
every one.
Tinor placed before him a calabash of poee-poee, from which
the stranger regaled himself, alternating every mouthful with some rapid
exclamation, which was eagerly caught up and echoed by the crowd that
completely filled the house. When I observed the striking devotion of
the natives to him, and their temporary withdrawal of all attention from
myself, I felt not a little piqued. The glory of Tommo is departed,
thought I, and the sooner he removes from the valley the better. These
were my feelings at the moment, and they were prompted by that
glorious principle inherent in all heroic natures—the
strong-rooted determination to have the biggest share of the pudding or to
go without any of it.
Marnoo, that all-attractive personage, having satisfied
his hunger and inhaled a few whiffs from a pipe which was handed to him,
launched out into an harangue which completely enchained the attention of his
auditors.
Little as I understood of the language, yet from his
animated gestures and the varying expression of his features—reflected
as from so many mirrors in the countenances around him, I could easily
discover the nature of those passions which he sought to arouse. From
the frequent recurrence of the words 'Nukuheva' and 'Frannee' (French), and
some others with the meaning of which I was acquainted, he appeared to be
rehearsing to his auditors events which had recently occurred in the
neighbouring bays. But how he had gained the knowledge of these matters
I could not understand, unless it were that he had just come from
Nukuheva—a supposition which his travel-stained appearance not a
little supported. But, if a native of that region, I could not
account for his friendly reception at the hands of the Typees.
Never, certainly, had I beheld so powerful an exhibition
of natural eloquence as Marnoo displayed during the course of
his oration. The grace of the attitudes into which he threw
his flexible figure, the striking gestures of his naked arms, and above
all, the fire which shot from his brilliant eyes, imparted an effect to the
continually changing accents of his voice, of which the most accomplished
orator might have been proud. At one moment reclining sideways upon the
mat, and leaning calmly upon his bended arm, he related circumstantially the
aggressions of the French—their hostile visits to the surrounding
bays, enumerating each one in succession—Happar, Puerka,
Nukuheva, Tior,—and then starting to his feet and precipitating
himself forward with clenched hands and a countenance distorted
with passion, he poured out a tide of invectives. Falling back
into an attitude of lofty command, he exhorted the Typees to resist these
encroachments; reminding them, with a fierce glance of exultation, that as
yet the terror of their name had preserved them from attack, and with a
scornful sneer he sketched in ironical terms the wondrous intrepidity of the
French, who, with five war-canoes and hundreds of men, had not dared to
assail the naked warriors of their valley.
The effect he produced upon his audience was electric; one
and all they stood regarding him with sparkling eyes and trembling limbs,
as though they were listening to the inspired voice of
a prophet.
But it soon appeared that Marnoo's powers were as versatile
as they were extraordinary. As soon as he had finished his
vehement harangue, he threw himself again upon the mats, and, singling
out individuals in the crowd, addressed them by name, in a sort
of bantering style, the humour of which, though nearly hidden from me
filled the whole assembly with uproarious delight.
He had a word for everybody; and, turning rapidly from one
to another, gave utterance to some hasty witticism, which was sure to be
followed by peals of laughter. To the females as well as to the men, he
addressed his discourse. Heaven only knows what he said to them, but he
caused smiles and blushes to mantle their ingenuous faces. I am,
indeed, very much inclined to believe that Marnoo, with his handsome person
and captivating manners, was a sad deceiver among the simple maidens of the
island.
During all this time he had never, for one moment, deigned
to regard me. He appeared, indeed, to be altogether unconscious
of my presence. I was utterly at a loss how to account for
this extraordinary conduct. I easily perceived that he was a man
of no little consequence among the islanders; that he possessed uncommon
talents; and was gifted with a higher degree of knowledge than the inmates of
the valley. For these reasons, I therefore greatly feared lest having,
from some cause or other, unfriendly feelings towards me, he might exert his
powerful influence to do me mischief.
It seemed evident that he was not a permanent resident of
the vale, and yet, whence could he have come? On all sides
the Typees were girt in by hostile tribes, and how could he possibly, if
belonging to any of these, be received with so much cordiality?
The personal appearance of the enigmatical stranger
suggested additional perplexities. The face, free from tattooing, and
the unshaven crown, were peculiarities I had never before remarked in any
part of the island, and I had always heard that the contrary were considered
the indispensable distinction of a Marquesan warrior. Altogether the
matter was perfectly incomprehensible to me, and I awaited its solution with
no small degree of anxiety.
At length, from certain indications, I suspected that he
was making me the subject of his remarks, although he appeared cautiously
to avoid either pronouncing my name, or looking in the direction where I
lay. All at once he rose from the mats where he had been reclining,
and, still conversing, moved towards me, his eye purposely evading mine, and
seated himself within less than a yard of me. I had hardly recovered
from my surprise, when he suddenly turned round, and, with a most benignant
countenance extended his right hand gracefully towards me. Of course
I accepted the courteous challenge, and, as soon as our palms met, he bent
towards me, and murmured in musical accents—'How you do?' 'How long
you been in this bay?' 'You like this bay?'
Had I been pierced simultaneously by three Happar spears, I
could not have started more than I did at hearing these
simple questions. For a moment I was overwhelmed with astonishment,
and then answered something I know not what; but as soon as I regained my
self-possession, the thought darted through my mind that from this individual
I might obtain that information regarding Toby which I suspected the natives
had purposely withheld from me. Accordingly I questioned him concerning
the disappearance of my companion, but he denied all knowledge of
the matter. I then inquired from whence he had come? He
replied, from Nukuheva. When I expressed my surprise, he looked at me
for a moment, as if enjoying my perplexity, and then with his
strange vivacity, exclaimed,—'Ah! Me taboo,—me go Nukuheva,—me
go Tior,—me go Typee,—me go everywhere,—nobody harm
me,—me taboo.'
This explanation would have been altogether unintelligible to
me, had it not recalled to my mind something I had previously
heard concerning a singular custom among these islanders. Though
the country is possessed by various tribes, whose mutual
hostilities almost wholly prelude any intercourse between them; yet there
are instances where a person having ratified friendly relations with some
individual belonging longing to the valley, whose inmates are at war with his
own, may, under particular restrictions, venture with impunity into the
country of his friend, where, under other circumstances, he would have been
treated as an enemy. In this light are personal friendships regarded
among them, and the individual so protected is said to be 'taboo', and his
person, to a certain extent, is held as sacred. Thus the stranger
informed me he had access to all the valleys in the island.
Curious to know how he had acquired his knowledge of English,
I questioned him on the subject. At first, for some reason or other,
he evaded the inquiry, but afterwards told me that, when a boy, he had been
carried to sea by the captain of a trading vessel, with whom he had stayed
three years, living part of the time with him at Sidney in Australia, and
that at a subsequent visit to the island, the captain had, at his own
request, permitted him to remain among his countrymen. The
natural quickness of the savage had been wonderfully improved by
his intercourse with the white men, and his partial knowledge of a foreign
language gave him a great ascendancy over his less accomplished
countrymen.
When I asked the now affable Marnoo why it was that he had
not previously spoken to me, he eagerly inquired what I had been led to
think of him from his conduct in that respect. I replied, that I had
supposed him to be some great chief or warrior, who had seen plenty of white
men before, and did not think it worth while to notice a poor sailor.
At this declaration of the exalted opinion I had formed of him, he appeared
vastly gratified, and gave me to understand that he had purposely behaved
in that manner, in order to increase my astonishment, as soon as he should
see proper to address me.
Marnoo now sought to learn my version of the story as to how
I came to be an inmate of the Typee valley. When I related to
him the circumstances under which Toby and I had entered it, he listened
with evident interest; but as soon as I alluded to the absence, yet
unaccounted for, of my comrade, he endeavoured to change the subject, as if
it were something he desired not to agitate. It seemed, indeed, as if
everything connected with Toby was destined to beget distrust and anxiety in
my bosom. Notwithstanding Marnoo's denial of any knowledge of his
fate, I could not avoid suspecting that he was deceiving me; and
this suspicion revived those frightful apprehensions with regard to my own
fate, which, for a short time past, had subsided in my breast.
Influenced by these feelings, I now felt a strong desire to
avail myself of the stranger's protection, and under his safeguard
to return to Nukuheva. But as soon as I hinted at this,
he unhesitatingly pronounced it to be entirely impracticable; assuring me
that the Typees would never consent to my leaving the valley. Although
what he said merely confirmed the impression which I had before entertained,
still it increased my anxiety to escape from a captivity which, however
endurable, nay, delightful it might be in some respects, involved in its
issues a fate marked by the most frightful contingencies.
I could not conceal from my mind that Toby had been treated
in the same friendly manner as I had been, and yet all their kindness
terminated with his mysterious disappearance. Might not the same fate
await me?—a fate too dreadful to think of. Stimulated by these
considerations, I urged anew my request to Marnoo; but he only set forth in
stronger colours the impossibility of my escape, and repeated his previous
declaration that the Typees would never be brought to consent to
my departure.
When I endeavoured to learn from him the motives which
prompted them to hold me a prisoner, Marnoo again presumed that
mysterious tone which had tormented me with apprehension when I
had questioned him with regard to the fate of my companion.
Thus repulsed, in a manner which only served, by arousing
the most dreadful forebodings, to excite me to renewed attempts,
I conjured him to intercede for me with the natives, and endeavour to
procure their consent to my leaving them. To this he appeared strongly
averse; but, yielding at last to my importunities, he addressed several of
the chiefs, who with the rest had been eyeing us intently during the whole of
our conversation. His petition, however, was at once met with the most
violent disapprobation, manifesting itself in angry glances and
gestures, and a perfect torrent of passionate words, directed to both
him and myself. Marnoo, evidently repenting the step he had
taken, earnestly deprecated the resentment of the crowd, and, in a
few moments succeeded in pacifying to some extent the clamours which had
broken out as soon as his proposition had been understood.
With the most intense interest had I watched the reception
his intercession might receive; and a bitter pang shot through my heart at
the additional evidence, now furnished, of the unchangeable determination of
the islanders. Marnoo told me with evident alarm in his countenance,
that although admitted into the bay on a friendly footing with its
inhabitants, he could not presume to meddle with their concerns, as such
procedure, if persisted in, would at once absolve the Typees from
the restraints of the 'taboo', although so long as he refrained from such
conduct, it screened him effectually from the consequences of the enmity they
bore his tribe. At this moment, Mehevi, who was present, angrily
interrupted him; and the words which he uttered in a commanding tone,
evidently meant that he must at once cease talking to me and withdraw to the
other part of the house. Marnoo immediately started up, hurriedly
enjoining me not to address him again, and as I valued my safety, to refrain
from all further allusion to the subject of my departure; and then,
in compliance with the order of the determined chief, but not before it
had again been angrily repeated, he withdrew to a distance.
I now perceived, with no small degree of apprehension, the
same savage expression in the countenances of the natives, which
had startled me during the scene at the Ti. They glanced their
eyes suspiciously from Marnoo to me, as if distrusting the nature of an
intercourse carried on, as it was, in a language they could not understand,
and they seemed to harbour the belief that already we had concerted measures
calculated to elude their vigilance.
The lively countenances of these people are
wonderfully indicative of the emotions of the soul, and the imperfections
of their oral language are more than compensated for by the
nervous eloquence of their looks and gestures. I could plainly trace,
in every varying expression of their faces, all those passions which had
been thus unexpectedly aroused in their bosoms.
It required no reflection to convince me, from what was going
on, that the injunction of Marnoo was not to be rashly slighted;
and accordingly, great as was the effort to suppress my feelings,
I accosted Mehevi in a good-humoured tone, with a view of dissipating any
ill impression he might have received. But the ireful, angry chief was
not so easily mollified. He rejected my advances with that peculiarly
stern expression I have before described, and took care by the whole of his
behaviour towards me to show the displeasure and resentment which he
felt.
Marnoo, at the other extremity of the house, apparently
desirous of making a diversion in my favour, exerted himself to amuse
with his pleasantries the crowd about him; but his lively attempts were
not so successful as they had previously been, and, foiled in his efforts, he
rose gravely to depart. No one expressed any regret at this movement,
so seizing his roll of tappa, and grasping his spear, he advanced to the
front of the pi-pi, and waving his hand in adieu to the now silent throng,
cast upon me a glance of mingled pity and reproach, and flung himself into
the path which led from the house. I watched his receding
figure until it was lost in the obscurity of the grove, and then
gave myself up to the most desponding reflections.
CHAPTER NINETEEN
REFLECTIONS AFTER MARNOO'S DEPARTURE-BATTLE OF
THE POP-GUNS—STRANGE CONCEIT OF MARHEYO—PROCESS OF MAKING
TAPPA
THE knowledge I had now obtained as to the intention of
the savages deeply affected me.
Marnoo, I perceived, was a man who, by reason of his
superior acquirements, and the knowledge he possessed of the events
which were taking place in the different bays of the island, was held in
no little estimation by the inhabitants of the valley. He had been
received with the most cordial welcome and respect. The natives had
hung upon the accents of his voice, and, had manifested the highest
gratification at being individually noticed by him. And yet despite all
this, a few words urged in my behalf, with the intent of obtaining my release
from captivity, had sufficed not only to banish all harmony and good-will;
but, if I could believe what he told me, had gone on to endanger his own
personal safety.
How strongly rooted, then, must be the determination of
the Typees with regard to me, and how suddenly could they display
the strangest passions! The mere suggestion of my departure
had estranged from me, for the time at least, Mehevi, who was the most
influential of all the chiefs, and who had previously exhibited so many
instances of his friendly sentiments. The rest of the natives had
likewise evinced their strong repugnance to my wishes, and even Kory-Kory
himself seemed to share in the general disapprobation bestowed upon
me.
In vain I racked my invention to find out some motive for
them, but I could discover none.
But however this might be, the scene which had just
occurred admonished me of the danger of trifling with the wayward
and passionate spirits against whom it was vain to struggle, and might
even be fatal to do go. My only hope was to induce the natives to
believe that I was reconciled to my detention in the valley, and by assuming
a tranquil and cheerful demeanour, to allay the suspicions which I had so
unfortunately aroused. Their confidence revived, they might in a short
time remit in some degree their watchfulness over my movements, and I should
then be the better enabled to avail myself of any opportunity
which presented itself for escape. I determined, therefore, to
make the best of a bad bargain, and to bear up manfully against whatever
might betide. In this endeavour, I succeeded beyond my own
expectations. At the period of Marnoo's visit, I had been in the
valley, as nearly as I could conjecture, some two months. Although not
completely recovered from my strange illness, which still lingered about me,
I was free from pain and able to take exercise. In short, I had every
reason to anticipate a perfect recovery. Freed from apprehension on
this point, and resolved to regard the future without flinching, I flung
myself anew into all the social pleasures of the valley, and sought to bury
all regrets, and all remembrances of my previous existence in the wild
enjoyments it afforded.
In my various wanderings through the vale, and as I became
better acquainted with the character of its inhabitants, I was more
and more struck with the light-hearted joyousness that
everywhere prevailed. The minds of these simple savages, unoccupied
by matters of graver moment, were capable of deriving the utmost delight
from circumstances which would have passed unnoticed in more intelligent
communities. All their enjoyment, indeed, seemed to be made up of the
little trifling incidents of the passing hour; but these diminutive items
swelled altogether to an amount of happiness seldom experienced by more
enlightened individuals, whose pleasures are drawn from more elevated
but rarer sources.
What community, for instance, of refined and intellectual
mortals would derive the least satisfaction from shooting pop-guns?
The mere supposition of such a thing being possible would excite their
indignation, and yet the whole population of Typee did little else for ten
days but occupy themselves with that childish amusement, fairly screaming,
too, with the delight it afforded them.
One day I was frolicking with a little spirited urchin, some
six years old, who chased me with a piece of bamboo about three feet long,
with which he occasionally belaboured me. Seizing the stick from him,
the idea happened to suggest itself, that I might make for the youngster, out
of the slender tube, one of those nursery muskets with which I had sometimes
seen children playing.
Accordingly, with my knife I made two parallel slits in the
cane several inches in length, and cutting loose at one end the elastic
strip between them, bent it back and slipped the point into a little notch
made for the purse. Any small substance placed against this would be
projected with considerable force through the tube, by merely springing the
bent strip out of the notch.
Had I possessed the remotest idea of the sensation this piece
of ordnance was destined to produce, I should certainly have taken out a
patent for the invention. The boy scampered away with it, half
delirious with ecstasy, and in twenty minutes afterwards I might have been
seen surrounded by a noisy crowd—venerable old graybeards—responsible
fathers of families—valiant warriors—matrons—young men—girls and
children, all holding in their hands bits of bamboo, and each clamouring to
be served first.
For three or four hours I was engaged in manufacturing
pop-guns, but at last made over my good-will and interest in the concern
to a lad of remarkably quick parts, whom I soon initiated into the art and
mystery.
Pop, Pop, Pop, Pop, now resounded all over the valley.
Duels, skirmishes, pitched battles, and general engagements were to
be seen on every side. Here, as you walked along a path which
led through a thicket, you fell into a cunningly laid ambush, and became a
target for a body of musketeers whose tattooed limbs you could just see
peeping into view through the foliage. There you were assailed by the
intrepid garrison of a house, who levelled their bamboo rifles at you from
between the upright canes which composed its sides. Farther on you were
fired upon by a detachment of sharpshooters, mounted upon the top of a
pi-pi.
Pop, Pop, Pop, Pop! green guavas, seeds, and berries
were flying about in every direction, and during this dangerous state
of affairs I was half afraid that, like the man and his brazen bull, I
should fall a victim to my own ingenuity. Like everything else,
however, the excitement gradually wore away, though ever after occasionally
pop-guns might be heard at all hours of the day.
It was towards the close of the pop-gun war, that I
was infinitely diverted with a strange freak of Marheyo's.
I had worn, when I quitted the ship, a pair of thick
pumps, which, from the rough usage they had received in scaling precipices
and sliding down gorges, were so dilapidated as to be altogether unfit for
use—so, at least, would have thought the generality of people, and so they
most certainly were, when considered in the light of shoes. But things
unservicable in one way, may with advantage be applied in another, that is,
if one have genius enough for the purpose. This genius
Marheyo possessed in a superlative degree, as he abundantly evinced by the
use to which he put those sorely bruised and battered old shoes.
Every article, however trivial, which belonged to me, the
natives appeared to regard as sacred; and I observed that for several days
after becoming an inmate of the house, my pumps were suffered to remain,
untouched, where I had first happened to throw them. I remembered,
however, that after awhile I had missed them from their accustomed place; but
the matter gave me no concern, supposing that Tinor—like any other tidy
housewife, having come across them in some of her domestic
occupations—had pitched the useless things out of the house. But I was
soon undeceived.
One day I observed old Marheyo bustling about me with
unusual activity, and to such a degree as almost to supersede Kory-Kory in
the functions of his office. One moment he volunteered to trot off with
me on his back to the stream; and when I refused, noways daunted by the
repulse, he continued to frisk about me like a superannuated house-dog.
I could not for the life of me conjecture what possessed the old gentleman,
until all at once, availing himself of the temporary absence of the
household, he went through a variety of of uncouth gestures, pointing
eagerly down to my feet, then up to a little bundle, which swung from
the ridge pole overhead. At last I caught a faint idea of
his meaning, and motioned him to lower the package. He executed
the order in the twinkling of an eye, and unrolling a piece of
tappa, displayed to my astonished gaze the identical pumps which I thought
had been destroyed long before.
I immediately comprehended his desire, and very generously
gave him the shoes, which had become quite mouldy, wondering for
what earthly purpose he could want them. The same afternoon
I descried the venerable warrior approaching the house, with a slow,
stately gait, ear-rings in ears, and spear in hand, with this highly
ornamental pair of shoes suspended from his neck by a strip of bark, and
swinging backwards and forwards on his capacious chest. In the gala
costume of the tasteful Marheyo, these calf-skin pendants ever after formed
the most striking feature.
But to turn to something a little more important.
Although the whole existence of the inhabitants of the valley seemed to
pass away exempt from toil, yet there were some light employments which,
although amusing rather than laborious as occupations, contributed to their
comfort and luxury. Among these the most important was the manufacture
of the native cloth,—'tappa',—so well known, under various modifications,
throughout the whole Polynesian Archipelago. As is generally
understood, this useful and sometimes elegant article is fabricated from the
bark of different trees. But, as I believe that no description of
its manufacture has ever been given, I shall state what I know regarding
it.
In the manufacture of the beautiful white tappa generally worn
on the Marquesan Islands, the preliminary operation consists in gathering
a certain quantity of the young branches of the cloth-tree. The
exterior green bark being pulled off as worthless, there remains a slender
fibrous substance, which is carefully stripped from the stick, to which it
closely adheres. When a sufficient quantity of it has been collected,
the various strips are enveloped in a covering of large leaves, which
the natives use precisely as we do wrapping-paper, and which are secured
by a few turns of a line passed round them. The package is then laid in
the bed of some running stream, with a heavy stone placed over it, to prevent
its being swept away. After it has remained for two or three days in
this state, it is drawn out, and exposed, for a short time, to the action of
the air, every distinct piece being attentively inspected, with a view
of ascertaining whether it has yet been sufficiently affected by
the operation. This is repeated again and again, until the
desired result is obtained.
When the substance is in a proper state for the next process,
it betrays evidences of incipient decomposition; the fibres are relaxed
and softened, and rendered perfectly malleable. The different strips
are now extended, one by one, in successive layers, upon some smooth
surface—generally the prostrate trunk of a cocoanut tree—and the heap thus
formed is subjected, at every new increase, to a moderate beating, with a
sort of wooden mallet, leisurely applied. The mallet is made of a hard
heavy wood resembling ebony, is about twelve inches in length, and perhaps
two in breadth, with a rounded handle at one end, and in shape is the exact
counterpart of one of our four-sided razor-strops. The flat surfaces of
the implement are marked with shallow parallel indentations, varying in depth
on the different sides, so as to be adapted to the several stages of
the operation. These marks produce the corduroy sort of
stripes discernible in the tappa in its finished state. After
being beaten in the manner I have described, the material soon
becomes blended in one mass, which, moistened occasionally with water,
is at intervals hammered out, by a kind of gold-beating process, to any
degree of thinness required. In this way the cloth is easily made to
vary in strength and thickness, so as to suit the numerous purposes to which
it is applied.
When the operation last described has been concluded,
the new-made tappa is spread out on the grass to bleach and dry, and soon
becomes of a dazzling whiteness. Sometimes, in the first stages of the
manufacture, the substance is impregnated with a vegetable juice, which gives
it a permanent colour. A rich brown and a bright yellow are
occasionally seen, but the simple taste of the Typee people inclines them to
prefer the natural tint.
The notable wife of Kamehameha, the renowned conqueror and
king of the Sandwich Islands, used to pride herself in the skill
she displayed in dyeing her tappa with contrasting colours disposed in
regular figures; and, in the midst of the innovations of the times, was
regarded, towards the decline of her life, as a lady of the old school,
clinging as she did to the national cloth, in preference to the frippery of
the European calicoes. But the art of printing the tappa is unknown
upon the Marquesan Islands. In passing along the valley, I was often
attracted by the noise of the mallet, which, when employed in the manufacture
of the cloth produces at every stroke of its hard, heavy wood, a
clear, ringing, and musical sound, capable of being heard at a
great distance. When several of these implements happen to be
in operation at the same time, near one another, the effect upon the ear
of a person, at a little distance, is really charming.
CHAPTER TWENTY
HISTORY OF A DAY AS USUALLY SPENT IN TYPEE VALLEY—DANCES OF
THE MARQUESAN GIRLS
NOTHING can be more uniform and undiversified than the life
of the Typees; one tranquil day of ease and happiness follows another in
quiet succession; and with these unsophisicated savages the history of a day
is the history of a life. I will, therefore, as briefly as I can,
describe one of our days in the valley.
To begin with the morning. We were not very early
risers—the sun would be shooting his golden spikes above the
Happar mountain, ere I threw aside my tappa robe, and girding my
long tunic about my waist, sallied out with Fayaway and Kory-Kory, and the
rest of the household, and bent my steps towards the stream. Here we
found congregated all those who dwelt in our section of the valley; and here
we bathed with them. The fresh morning air and the cool flowing waters
put both soul and body in a glow, and after a half-hour employed in this
recreation, we sauntered back to the house—Tinor and Marheyo gathering dry
sticks by the way for fire-wood; some of the young men laying the cocoanut
trees under contribution as they passed beneath them; while
Kory-Kory played his outlandish pranks for my particular diversion,
and Fayaway and I, not arm in arm to be sure, but sometimes hand in hand,
strolled along, with feelings of perfect charity for all the world, and
especial good-will towards each other.
Our morning meal was soon prepared. The islanders are
somewhat abstemious at this repast; reserving the more powerful efforts
of their appetite to a later period of the day. For my own
part, with the assistance of my valet, who, as I have before
stated, always officiated as spoon on these occasions, I ate
sparingly from one of Tinor's trenchers, of poee-poee; which was
devoted exclusively for my own use, being mixed with the milky meat
of ripe cocoanut. A section of a roasted bread-fruit, a small
cake of 'Amar', or a mess of 'Cokoo,' two or three bananas, or
a mammee-apple; an annuee, or some other agreeable and nutritious fruit
served from day to day to diversify the meal, which was finished by tossing
off the liquid contents of a young cocoanut or two.
While partaking of this simple repast, the inmates of
Marheyo's house, after the style of the ancient Romans, reclined
in sociable groups upon the divan of mats, and digestion was promoted by
cheerful conversation.
After the morning meal was concluded, pipes were lighted;
and among them my own especial pipe, a present from the noble
Mehevi.
The islanders, who only smoke a whiff or two at a time, and
at long intervals, and who keep their pipes going from hand to
hand continually, regarded my systematic smoking of four or five pipefuls
of tobacco in succession, as something quite wonderful. When two or
three pipes had circulated freely, the company gradually broke up.
Marheyo went to the little hut he was forever building. Tinor began to
inspect her rolls of tappa, or employed her busy fingers in plaiting
grass-mats. The girls anointed themselves with their fragrant oils,
dressed their hair, or looked over their curious finery, and compared
together their ivory trinkets, fashioned out of boar's tusks or whale's
teeth. The young men and warriors produced their spears,
paddles, canoe-gear, battle-clubs, and war-conchs, and occupied
themselves in carving, all sorts of figures upon them with pointed bits
of shell or flint, and adorning them, especially the war-conchs, with
tassels of braided bark and tufts of human hair. Some, immediately
after eating, threw themselves once more upon the inviting mats, and resumed
the employment of the previous night, sleeping as soundly as if they had not
closed their eyes for a week. Others sallied out into the groves, for
the purpose of gathering fruit or fibres of bark and leaves; the last two
being in constant requisition, and applied to a hundred uses. A
few, perhaps, among the girls, would slip into the woods after flowers, or
repair to the stream will; small calabashes and cocoanut shells, in order to
polish them by friction with a smooth stone in the water. In truth
these innocent people seemed to be at no loss for something to occupy their
time; and it would be no light task to enumerate all their employments, or
rather pleasures.
My own mornings I spent in a variety of ways. Sometimes
I rambled about from house to house, sure of receiving a cordial welcome
wherever I went; or from grove to grove, and from one shady place to another,
in company with Kory-Kory and Fayaway, and a rabble rout of merry young
idlers. Sometimes I was too indolent for exercise, and accepting one of
the many invitations I was continually receiving, stretched myself out on the
mats of some hospitable dwelling, and occupied myself pleasantly either in
watching the proceedings of those around me or taking part in them
myself. Whenever I chose to do the latter, the delight of the islanders
was boundless; and there was always a throng of competitors for the honour of
instructing me in any particular craft. I soon became quite an
accomplished hand at making tappa—could braid a grass sling as well as the
best of them—and once, with my knife, carved the handle of a javelin
so exquisitely, that I have no doubt, to this day, Karnoonoo, its owner,
preserves it as a surprising specimen of my skill. As noon approached,
all those who had wandered forth from our habitation, began to return; and
when midday was fairly come scarcely a sound was to be heard in the valley: a
deep sleep fell upon all. The luxurious siesta was hardly ever omitted,
except by old Marheyo, who was so eccentric a character, that he seemed to
be governed by no fixed principles whatever; but acting just according to the
humour of the moment, slept, ate, or tinkered away at his little hut, without
regard to the proprieties of time or place. Frequently he might have
been seen taking a nap in the sun at noon-day, or a bath in the stream of
mid-night. Once I beheld him perched eighty feet from the ground, in
the tuft of a cocoanut tree, smoking; and often I saw him standing up to
the waist in water, engaged in plucking out the stray hairs of his beard,
using a piece of muscle-shell for tweezers.
The noon-tide slumber lasted generally an hour and a half:
very often longer; and after the sleepers had arisen from their mats they
again had recourse to their pipes, and then made preparations for the most
important meal of the day.
I, however, like those gentlemen of leisure who breakfast at
home and dine at their club, almost invariably, during my intervals
of health, enjoyed the afternoon repast with the bachelor chiefs of the
Ti, who were always rejoiced to see me, and lavishly spread before me all the
good things which their larder afforded. Mehevi generally introduced
among other dainties a baked pig, an article which I have every reason to
suppose was provided for my sole gratification.
The Ti was a right jovial place. It did my heart, as
well as my body, good to visit it. Secure from female intrusion, there
was no restraint upon the hilarity of the warriors, who, like
the gentlemen of Europe after the cloth is drawn and the ladies retire,
freely indulged their mirth.
After spending a considerable portion of the afternoon at the
Ti, I usually found myself, as the cool of the evening came on, either
sailing on the little lake with Fayaway, or bathing in the waters of the
stream with a number of the savages, who, at this hour, always repaired
thither. As the shadows of night approached Marheyo's household were
once more assembled under his roof: tapers were lit, long curious chants were
raised, interminable stories were told (for which one present was
little the wiser), and all sorts of social festivities served to
while away the time.
The young girls very often danced by moonlight in front of
their dwellings. There are a great variety of these dances, in
which, however, I never saw the men take part. They all consist
of active, romping, mischievous evolutions, in which every limb is brought
into requisition. Indeed, the Marquesan girls dance all over, as it
were; not only do their feet dance, but their arms, hands, fingers, ay, their
very eyes, seem to dance in their heads.
The damsels wear nothing but flowers and their compendious
gala tunics; and when they plume themselves for the dance, they look like
a band of olive-coloured Sylphides on the point of taking wing. In good
sooth, they so sway their floating forms, arch their necks, toss aloft their
naked arms, and glide, and swim, and whirl, that it was almost too much for a
quiet, sober-minded, modest young man like myself.
Unless some particular festivity was going forward, the
inmates of Marheyo's house retired to their mats rather early in
the evening; but not for the night, since, after slumbering lightly for a
while, they rose again, relit their tapers, partook of the third and last
meal of the day, at which poee-poee alone was eaten, and then, after inhaling
a narcotic whiff from a pipe of tobacco, disposed themselves for the great
business of night, sleep. With the Marquesans it might almost most be
styled the great business of life, for they pass a large portion of
their time in the arms of Somnus. The native strength of
their constitution is no way shown more emphatically than in the quantity
of sleep they can endure. To many of them, indeed, life is little else
than an often interrupted and luxurious nap.
CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE
THE SPRING OF ARVA WAI—REMARKABLE MONUMENTAL REMAINS—SOME
IDEAS WITH REGARD TO THE HISTORY OF THE PI-PIS FOUND IN THE
VALLEY
ALMOST every country has its medicinal springs famed for
their healing virtues. The Cheltenham of Typee is embosomed in
the deepest solitude, and but seldom receives a visitor. It
is situated remote from any dwelling, a little way up the mountain, near
the head of the valley; and you approach it by a pathway shaded by the most
beautiful foliage, and adorned with a thousand fragrant plants. The
mineral waters of Arva Wai* ooze forth from the crevices of a rock, and
gliding down its mossy side, fall at last, in many clustering drops, into a
natural basin of stone fringed round with grass and dewy-looking little
violet-coloured flowers, as fresh and beautiful as the perpetual moisture
they enjoy can make them.
*I presume this might be translated into 'Strong
Waters'. Arva is the name bestowed upon a root the properties of which
are both inebriating and medicinal. 'Wai' is the Marquesan word
for water.
The water is held in high estimation by the islanders, some
of whom consider it an agreeable as well as a medicinal beverage; they
bring it from the mountain in their calabashes, and store it away beneath
heaps of leaves in some shady nook near the house. Old Marheyo had a
great love for the waters of the spring. Every now and then he lugged
off to the mountain a great round demijohn of a calabash, and, panting with
his exertions, brought it back filled with his darling fluid.
The water tasted like a solution of a dozen disagreeable
things, and was sufficiently nauseous to have made the fortune of
the proprietor, had the spa been situated in the midst of any civilized
community.
As I am no chemist, I cannot give a scientific analysis of
the water. All I know about the matter is, that one day Marheyo
in my presence poured out the last drop from his huge calabash, and I
observed at the bottom of the vessel a small quantity of gravelly sediment
very much resembling our common sand. Whether this is always found in
the water, and gives it its peculiar flavour and virtues, or whether its
presence was merely incidental, I was not able to ascertain.
One day in returning from this spring by a circuitous path,
I came upon a scene which reminded me of Stonehenge and the architectural
labours of the Druids.
At the base of one of the mountains, and surrounded on all
sides by dense groves, a series of vast terraces of stone rises, step by
step, for a considerable distance up the hill side. These terraces
cannot be less than one hundred yards in length and twenty in width.
Their magnitude, however, is less striking than the immense size of the
blocks composing them. Some of the stones, of an oblong shape, are from
ten to fifteen feet in length, and five or six feet thick. Their sides
are quite smooth, but though square, and of pretty regular formation,
they bear no mark of the chisel. They are laid together
without cement, and here and there show gaps between. The
topmost terrace and the lower one are somewhat peculiar in
their construction. They have both a quadrangular depression in
the centre, leaving the rest of the terrace elevated several feet above
it. In the intervals of the stones immense trees have taken root, and
their broad boughs stretching far over, and interlacing together, support a
canopy almost impenetrable to the sun. Overgrowing the greater part of
them, and climbing from one to another, is a wilderness of vines, in whose
sinewy embrace many of the stones lie half-hidden, while in some places a
thick growth of bushes entirely covers them. There is a wild
pathway which obliquely crosses two of these terraces; and so profound
is the shade, so dense the vegetation, that a stranger to the place might
pass along it without being aware of their existence.
These structures bear every indication of a very high
antiquity and Kory-Kory, who was my authority in all matters of
scientific research, gave me to understand that they were coeval with
the creation of the world; that the great gods themselves were
the builders; and that they would endure until time shall be no
more.
Kory-Kory's prompt explanation and his attributing the work to
a divine origin, at once convinced me that neither he nor the rest of his
country-men knew anything about them.
As I gazed upon this monument, doubtless the work of an
extinct and forgotten race, thus buried in the green nook of an island
at the ends of the earth, the existence of which was yesterday unknown, a
stronger feeling of awe came over me than if I had stood musing at the mighty
base of the Pyramid of Cheops. There are no inscriptions, no sculpture,
no clue, by which to conjecture its history; nothing but the dumb
stones. How many generations of the majestic trees which overshadow
them have grown and flourished and decayed since first they were
erected!
These remains naturally suggest many interesting
reflections. They establish the great age of the island, an opinion
which the builders of theories concerning, the creation of the
various groups in the South Seas are not always inclined to admit.
For my own part, I think it just as probable that human beings were living
in the valleys of the Marquesas three thousand years ago as that they were
inhabiting the land of Egypt. The origin of the island of Nukuheva
cannot be imputed to the coral insect; for indefatigable as that wonderful
creature is, it would be hardly muscular enough to pile rocks one upon the
other more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea. That
the land may have been thrown up by a submarine volcano is as possible as
anything else. No one can make an affidavit to the contrary,
and therefore I still say nothing against the supposition: indeed, were
geologists to assert that the whole continent of America had in like manner
been formed by the simultaneous explosion of a train of Etnas laid under the
water all the way from the North Pole to the parallel of Cape Horn, I am the
last man in the world to contradict them.
I have already mentioned that the dwellings of the islanders
were almost invariably built upon massive stone foundations, which they
call pi-pis. The dimensions of these, however, as well as of the stones
composing them, are comparatively small: but there are other and larger
erections of a similar description comprising the 'morais', or burying
grounds, and festival-places, in nearly all the valleys of the island.
Some of these piles are so extensive, and so great a degree of labour and
skill must have been requisite in constructing them, that I can scarcely
believe they were built by the ancestors of the present inhabitants.
If indeed they were, the race has sadly deteriorated in their knowledge of
the mechanic arts. To say nothing of their habitual indolence, by what
contrivance within the reach of so simple a people could such enormous masses
have been moved or fixed in their places? and how could they with their
rude implements have chiselled and hammered them into shape?
All of these larger pi-pis—like that of the Hoolah Hoolah
ground in the Typee valley—bore incontestible marks of great age; and
I am disposed to believe that their erection may be ascribed to the same
race of men who were the builders of the still more ancient remains I have
just described.
According to Kory-Kory's account, the pi-pi upon which stands
the Hoolah Hoolah ground was built a great many moons ago, under
the direction of Monoo, a great chief and warrior, and, as it
would appear, master-mason among the Typees. It was erected for
the express purpose to which it is at present devoted, in the incredibly
short period of one sun; and was dedicated to the immortal wooden idols by a
grand festival, which lasted ten days and nights.
Among the smaller pi-pis, upon which stand the dwelling-houses
of the natives, I never observed any which intimated a
recent erection. There are in every part of the valley a great many
of these massive stone foundations which have no houses upon them.
This is vastly convenient, for whenever an enterprising islander chooses
to emigrate a few hundred yards from the place where he was born, all he has
to do in order to establish himself in some new locality, is to select one of
the many unappropriated pi-pis, and without further ceremony pitch his bamboo
tent upon it.
CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO
PREPARATIONS FOR A GRAND FESTIVAL IN THE VALLEY—STRANGE
DOINGS IN THE TABOO GROVES—MONUMENT OF CALABASHES—GALA COSTUME OF
THE TYPEE DAMSELS—DEPARTURE FOR THE FESTIVAL
FROM the time that my lameness had decreased I had made a
daily practice of visiting Mehevi at the Ti, who invariably gave me a most
cordial reception. I was always accompanied in these excursions by
Fayaway and the ever-present Kory-Kory. The former, as soon as we
reached the vicinity of the Ti—which was rigorously tabooed to the whole
female sex—withdrew to a neighbouring hut, as if her feminine delicacy
'restricted' her from approaching a habitation which might be regarded as a
sort of Bachelor's Hall.
And in good truth it might well have been so considered.
Although it was the permanent residence of several distinguished chiefs,
and of the noble Mehevi in particular, it was still at certain seasons the
favourite haunt of all the jolly, talkative, and elderly savages of the vale,
who resorted thither in the same way that similar characters frequent a
tavern in civilized countries. There they would remain hour after hour,
chatting, smoking, eating poee-poee, or busily engaged in sleeping for
the good of their constitutions.
This building appeared to be the head-quarters of the
valley, where all flying rumours concentrated; and to have seen it
filled with a crowd of the natives, all males, conversing in
animated clusters, while multitudes were continually coming and going,
one would have thought it a kind of savage Exchange, where the rise and
fall of Polynesian Stock was discussed.
Mehevi acted as supreme lord over the place, spending the
greater portion of his time there: and often when, at particular hours
of the day, it was deserted by nearly every one else except
the verd-antique looking centenarians, who were fixtures in the building,
the chief himself was sure to be found enjoying his 'otium cum
dignitate'—upon the luxurious mats which covered the floor. Whenever I
made my appearance he invariably rose, and like a gentleman doing the honours
of his mansion, invited me to repose myself wherever I pleased, and calling
out 'tamaree!' (boy), a little fellow would appear, and then retiring for
an instant, return with some savoury mess, from which the chief would
press me to regale myself. To tell the truth, Mehevi was indebted to
the excellence of his viands for the honour of my repeated visits—a matter
which cannot appear singular, when it is borne in mind that bachelors, all
the world over, are famous for serving up unexceptionable
repasts.
One day, on drawing near to the Ti, I observed that
extensive preparations were going forward, plainly betokening
some approaching festival. Some of the symptoms reminded me of
the stir produced among the scullions of a large hotel, where a
grand jubilee dinner is about to be given. The natives were
hurrying about hither and thither, engaged in various duties, some
lugging off to the stream enormous hollow bamboos, for the purpose
of filling them with water; others chasing furious-looking hogs through
the bushes, in their endeavours to capture them; and numbers employed in
kneading great mountains of poee-poee heaped up in huge wooden
vessels.
After observing these lively indications for a while, I
was attracted to a neighbouring grove by a prodigious squeaking which I
heard there. On reaching the spot I found it proceeded from a large hog
which a number of natives were forcibly holding to the earth, while a
muscular fellow, armed with a bludgeon, was ineffectually aiming murderous
blows at the skull of the unfortunate porker. Again and again he missed
his writhing and struggling victim, but though puffing and panting with
his exertions, he still continued them; and after striking a sufficient
number of blows to have demolished an entire drove of oxen, with one crashing
stroke he laid him dead at his feet.
Without letting any blood from the body, it was
immediately carried to a fire which had been kindled near at hand and
four savages taking hold of the carcass by its legs, passed it rapidly to
and fro in the flames. In a moment the smell of burning bristles
betrayed the object of this procedure. Having got thus far in the
matter, the body was removed to a little distance and, being disembowelled,
the entrails were laid aside as choice parts, and the whole carcass
thoroughly washed with water. An ample thick green cloth, composed of
the long thick leaves of a species of palm-tree, ingeniously tacked together
with little pins of bamboo, was now spread upon the ground, in which the
body being carefully rolled, it was borne to an oven previously prepared
to receive it. Here it was at once laid upon the heated stones at the
bottom, and covered with thick layers of leaves, the whole being quickly
hidden from sight by a mound of earth raised over it.
Such is the summary style in which the Typees
convert perverse-minded and rebellious hogs into the most docile
and amiable pork; a morsel of which placed on the tongue melts like a soft
smile from the lips of Beauty.
I commend their peculiar mode of proceeding to the
consideration of all butchers, cooks, and housewives. The hapless
porker whose fate I have just rehearsed, was not the only one who suffered
in that memorable day. Many a dismal grunt, many an
imploring squeak, proclaimed what was going on throughout the whole
extent of the valley; and I verily believe the first-born of every litter
perished before the setting of that fatal sun.
The scene around the Ti was now most animated. Hogs
and poee-poee were baking in numerous ovens, which, heaped up with fresh
earth into slight elevations, looked like so many ant-hills. Scores of
the savages were vigorously plying their stone pestles in preparing masses of
poee-poee, and numbers were gathering green bread-fruit and young cocoanuts
in the surrounding groves; when an exceeding great multitude, with a view
of encouraging the rest in their labours, stood still, and kept shouting most
lustily without intermission.
It is a peculiarity among these people, that, when engaged in
an employment, they always make a prodigious fuss about it.
So seldom do they ever exert themselves, that when they do work they seem
determined that so meritorious an action shall not escape the observation of
those around if, for example, they have occasion to remove a stone to a
little distance, which perhaps might be carried by two able-bodied men, a
whole swarm gather about it, and, after a vast deal of palavering, lift it up
among them, every one struggling to get hold of it, and bear it
off yelling and panting as if accomplishing some mighty achievement.
Seeing them on these occasions, one is reminded of an infinity of black
ants clustering about and dragging away to some hole the leg of a deceased
fly.
Having for some time attentively observed these demonstrations
of good cheer, I entered the Ti, where Mehevi sat complacently looking out
upon the busy scene, and occasionally issuing his orders. The chief
appeared to be in an extraordinary flow of spirits and gave me to understand
that on the morrow there would be grand doings in the Groves generally, and
at the Ti in particular; and urged me by no means to absent myself.
In commemoration of what event, however, or in honour of
what distinguished personage, the feast was to be given, altogether passed
my comprehension. Mehevi sought to enlighten my ignorance, but he
failed as signally as when he had endeavoured to initiate me into the
perplexing arcana of the taboo.
On leaving the Ti, Kory-Kory, who had as a matter of
course accompanied me, observing that my curiosity remained
unabated, resolved to make everything plain and satisfactory. With
this intent, he escorted me through the Taboo Groves, pointing out to my
notice a variety of objects, and endeavoured to explain them in such an
indescribable jargon of words, that it almost put me in bodily pain to listen
to him. In particular, he led me to a remarkable pyramidical structure
some three yards square at the base, and perhaps ten feet in height, which
had lately been thrown up, and occupied a very conspicuous position. It
was composed principally of large empty calabashes, with a few polished
cocoanut shells, and looked not unlike a cenotaph of skulls. My
cicerone perceived the astonishment with which I gazed at this monument of
savage crockery, and immediately addressed himself in the task of
enlightening me: but all in vain; and to this hour the nature of the monument
remains a complete mystery to me. As, however, it formed so prominent
a feature in the approaching revels, I bestowed upon the latter, in my own
mind, the title of the 'Feast of Calabashes'.
The following morning, awaking rather late, I perceived the
whole of Marheyo's family busily engaged in preparing for the
festival.
The old warrior himself was arranging in round balls the two
grey locks of hair that were suffered to grow from the crown of his head;
his earrings and spear, both well polished, lay beside him, while the highly
decorative pair of shoes hung suspended from a projecting cane against the
side of the house. The young men were similarly employed; and the fair
damsels, including Fayaway, were anointing themselves with 'aka', arranging
their long tresses, and performing other matters connected with the
duties of the toilet.
Having completed their preparations, the girls now
exhibited themselves in gala costume; the most conspicuous feature of
which was a necklace of beautiful white flowers, with the stems removed,
and strung closely together upon a single fibre of tappa. Corresponding
ornaments were inserted in their ears, and woven garlands upon their
heads. About their waist they wore a short tunic of spotless white
tappa, and some of them super-added to this a mantle of the same material,
tied in an elaborate bow upon the left shoulder, and falling about the figure
in picturesque folds.
Thus arrayed, I would have matched the charming Fayaway
against any beauty in the world.
People may say what they will about the taste evinced by
our fashionable ladies in dress. Their jewels, their feathers,
their silks, and their furbelows, would have sunk into
utter insignificance beside the exquisite simplicity of attire adopted by
the nymphs of the vale on this festive occasion. I should like to have
seen a gallery of coronation beauties, at Westminster Abbey, confronted for a
moment by this band of island girls; their stiffness, formality, and
affectation, contrasted with the artless vivacity and unconcealed natural
graces of these savage maidens. It would be the Venus de' Medici placed
beside a milliner's doll. It was not long before Kory-Kory and
myself were left alone in the house, the rest of its inmates
having departed for the Taboo Groves. My valet was all impatience
to follow them; and was as fidgety about my dilatory movements as a diner
out waiting hat in hand at the bottom of the stairs for some lagging
companion. At last, yielding to his importunities, I set out for the
Ti. As we passed the houses peeping out from the groves through which
our route lay, I noticed that they were entirely deserted by their
inhabitants.
When we reached the rock that abruptly terminated the path,
and concealed from us the festive scene, wild shouts and a
confused blending of voices assured me that the occasion, whatever
it might be, had drawn together a great multitude.
Kory-Kory, previous to mounting the elevation, paused for a moment, like
a dandy at a ball-room door, to put a hasty finish to his toilet.
During this short interval, the thought struck me that I ought myself
perhaps to be taking some little pains with my appearance.
But as I had no holiday raiment, I was not a little puzzled
to devise some means of decorating myself. However, as I
felt desirous to create a sensation, I determined to do all that lay in my
power; and knowing that I could not delight the savages more than by
conforming to their style of dress, I removed from my person the large robe
of tappa which I was accustomed to wear over my shoulders whenever I sallied
into the open air, and remained merely girt about with a short tunic
descending from my waist to my knees.
My quick-witted attendant fully appreciated the compliment I
was paying to the costume of his race, and began more sedulously
to arrange the folds of the one only garment which remained to me. Whilst
he was doing this, I caught sight of a knot of young lasses, who were sitting
near us on the grass surrounded by heaps of flowers which they were forming
into garlands. I motioned to them to bring some of their handywork to
me; and in an instant a dozen wreaths were at my disposal. One of them
I put round the apology for a hat which I had been forced to construct for
myself out of palmetto-leaves, and some of the others I converted into
a splendid girdle. These operations finished, with the slow
and dignified step of a full-dressed beau I ascended the rock.
CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE
THE FEAST OF CALABASHES
THE whole population of the valley seemed to be gathered
within the precincts of the grove. In the distance could be seen
the long front of the Ti, its immense piazza swarming with men, arrayed in
every variety of fantastic costume, and all vociferating with animated
gestures; while the whole interval between it and the place where I stood was
enlivened by groups of females fancifully decorated, dancing, capering, and
uttering wild exclamations. As soon as they descried me they set up
a shout of welcome; and a band of them came dancing towards me, chanting
as they approached some wild recitative. The change in my garb seemed
to transport them with delight, and clustering about me on all sides, they
accompanied me towards the Ti. When however we drew near it these
joyous nymphs paused in their career, and parting on either side, permitted
me to pass on to the now densely thronged building.
So soon as I mounted to the pi-pi I saw at a glance that
the revels were fairly under way.
What lavish plenty reigned around?—Warwick feasting
his retainers with beef and ale, was a niggard to the noble Mehevi!—All
along the piazza of the Ti were arranged elaborately carved canoe-shaped
vessels, some twenty feet in length, tied with newly made poee-poee, and
sheltered from the sun by the broad leaves of the banana. At intervals
were heaps of green bread-fruit, raised in pyramidical stacks, resembling the
regular piles of heavy shot to be seen in the yard of an arsenal.
Inserted into the interstices of the huge stones which formed the pi-pi
were large boughs of trees; hanging from the branches of which, and screened
from the sun by their foliage, were innumerable little packages with leafy
coverings, containing the meat of the numerous hogs which had been slain,
done up in this manner to make it more accessible to the crowd. Leaning
against the railing on the piazza were an immense number of long,
heavy bamboos, plugged at the lower end, and with their projecting muzzles
stuffed with a wad of leaves. These were filled with water from the
stream, and each of them might hold from four to five gallons.
The banquet being thus spread, naught remained but for
everyone to help himself at his pleasure. Accordingly not a moment
passed but the transplanted boughs I have mentioned were rifled by
the throng of the fruit they certainly had never borne before.
Calabashes of poee-poee were continually being replenished from the
extensive receptacle in which that article was stored, and multitudes of
little fires were kindled about the Ti for the purpose of roasting the
bread-fruit.
Within the building itself was presented a most
extraordinary scene. The immense lounge of mats lying between the
parallel rows of the trunks of cocoanut trees, and extending the
entire length of the house, at least two hundred feet, was covered by the
reclining forms of a host of chiefs and warriors who were eating at a great
rate, or soothing the cares of Polynesian life in the sedative fumes of
tobacco. The smoke was inhaled from large pipes, the bowls of which,
made out of small cocoanut shells, were curiously carved in strange
heathenish devices. These were passed from mouth to mouth by the recumbent
smokers, each of whom, taking two or three prodigious whiffs, handed
the pipe to his neighbour; sometimes for that purpose
stretching indolently across the body of some dozing individual
whose exertions at the dinner-table had already induced sleep.
The tobacco used among the Typees was of a very mild and
pleasing flavour, and as I always saw it in leaves, and the
natives appeared pretty well supplied with it, I was led to believe
that it must have been the growth of the valley. Indeed
Kory-Kory gave me to understand that this was the case; but I never saw
a single plant growing on the island. At Nukuheva, and, I
believe, in all the other valleys, the weed is very scarce, being
only obtained in small quantities from foreigners, and smoking
is consequently with the inhabitants of these places a very
great luxury. How it was that the Typees were so well furnished
with it I cannot divine. I should think them too indolent to
devote any attention to its culture; and, indeed, as far as my observation
extended, not a single atom of the soil was under any other cultivation than
that of shower and sunshine. The tobacco-plant, however, like the
sugar-cane, may grow wild in some remote part of the vale.
There were many in the Ti for whom the tobacco did not furnish
a sufficient stimulus, and who accordingly had recourse to 'arva', as a
more powerful agent in producing the desired effect.
'Arva' is a root very generally dispersed over the South
Seas, and from it is extracted a juice, the effects of which upon
the system are at first stimulating in a moderate degree; but it
soon relaxes the muscles, and exerting a narcotic influence produces
a luxurious sleep. In the valley this beverage was
universally prepared in the following way: Some half-dozen young boys
seated themselves in a circle around an empty wooden vessel, each one
of them being supplied with a certain quantity of the roots of the 'arva',
broken into small bits and laid by his side. A cocoanut goblet of water
was passed around the juvenile company, who rinsing their mouths with its
contents, proceeded to the business before them. This merely consisted
in thoroughly masticating the 'arva', and throwing it mouthful after mouthful
into the receptacle provided. When a sufficient quantity had been
thus obtained water was poured upon the mass, and being stirred about with
the forefinger of the right hand, the preparation was soon in readiness for
use. The 'arva' has medicinal qualities.
Upon the Sandwich Islands it has been employed with no
small success in the treatment of scrofulous affections, and in combating
the ravages of a disease for whose frightful inroads the ill-starred
inhabitants of that group are indebted to their foreign benefactors.
But the tenants of the Typee valley, as yet exempt from these inflictions,
generally employ the 'arva' as a minister to social enjoyment, and a calabash
of the liquid circulates among them as the bottle with us.
Mehevi, who was greatly delighted with the change in my
costume, gave me a cordial welcome. He had reserved for me a
most delectable mess of 'cokoo', well knowing my partiality for that dish;
and had likewise selected three or four young cocoanuts, several roasted
bread-fruit, and a magnificent bunch of bananas, for my especial comfort and
gratification. These various matters were at once placed before me; but
Kory-Kory deemed the banquet entirely insufficient for my wants until he had
supplied me with one of the leafy packages of pork, which, notwithstanding
the somewhat hasty manner in which it had been prepared, possessed a most
excellent flavour, and was surprisingly sweet and tender.
Pork is not a staple article of food among the people of
the Marquesas; consequently they pay little attention to the BREEDING of
the swine. The hogs are permitted to roam at large on the groves, where
they obtain no small part of their nourishment from the cocoanuts which
continually fall from the trees. But it is only after infinite labour
and difficulty, that the hungry animal can pierce the husk and shell so as to
get at the meat. I have frequently been amused at seeing one of them,
after crunching the obstinate nut with his teeth for a long time
unsuccessfully, get into a violent passion with it. He would then root
furiously under the cocoanut, and, with a fling of his snout, toss
it before him on the ground. Following it up, he would crunch at
it again savagely for a moment, and then next knock it on one
side, pausing immediately after, as if wondering how it could so suddenly
have disappeared. In this way the persecuted cocoanuts were often
chased half across the valley.
The second day of the Feast of Calabashes was ushered in by
still more uproarious noises than the first. The skins of
innumerable sheep seemed to be resounding to the blows of an army
of drummers. Startled from my slumbers by the din, I leaped up,
and found the whole household engaged in making preparations for immediate
departure. Curious to discover of what strange events these novel
sounds might be the precursors, and not a little desirous to catch a sight of
the instruments which produced the terrific noise, I accompanied the natives
as soon as they were in readiness to depart for the Taboo
Groves.
The comparatively open space that extended from the Ti toward
the rock, to which I have before alluded as forming the ascent to
the place, was, with the building itself, now altogether deserted by the
men; the whole distance being filled by bands of females, shouting and
dancing under the influence of some strange excitement.
I was amused at the appearance of four or five old women who,
in a state of utter nudity, with their arms extended flatly down their
sides, and holding themselves perfectly erect, were leaping stiffly into the
air, like so many sticks bobbing to the surface, after being pressed
perpendicularly into the water. They preserved the utmost gravity of
countenance, and continued their extraordinary movements without a single
moment's cessation. They did not appear to attract the observation of
the crowd around them, but I must candidly confess that for my, own part,
I stared at them most pertinaciously.
Desirous of being enlightened in regard to the meaning of
this peculiar diversion, I turned, inquiringly to Kory-Kory; that learned
Typee immediately proceeded to explain the whole matter thoroughly. But
all that I could comprehend from what he said was, that the leaping figures
before me were bereaved widows, whose partners had been slain in battle many
moons previously; and who, at every festival, gave public evidence in this
manner of their calamities. It was evident that Kory-Kory
considered this an all-sufficient reason for so indecorous a custom; but
I must say that it did not satisfy me as to its propriety.
Leaving these afflicted females, we passed on to the
Hoolah Hoolah ground. Within the spacious quadrangle, the
whole population of the valley seemed to be assembled, and the
sight presented was truly remarkable. Beneath the sheds of
bamboo which opened towards the interior of the square reclined
the principal chiefs and warriors, while a miscellaneous throng lay at
their ease under the enormous trees which spread a majestic canopy
overhead. Upon the terraces of the gigantic altars, at each end, were
deposited green bread-fruit in baskets of cocoanut leaves, large rolls of
tappa, bunches of ripe bananas, clusters of mammee-apples, the golden-hued
fruit of the artu-tree, and baked hogs, laid out in large wooden trenchers,
fancifully decorated with freshly plucked leaves, whilst a variety of
rude implements of war were piled in confused heaps before the ranks of
hideous idols. Fruits of various kinds were likewise suspended in
leafen baskets, from the tops of poles planted uprightly, and at regular
intervals, along the lower terraces of both altars. At their base were
arranged two parallel rows of cumbersome drums, standing at least fifteen
feet in height, and formed from the hollow trunks of large trees. Their
heads were covered with shark skins, and their barrels were
elaborately carved with various quaint figures and devices. At
regular intervals they were bound round by a species of sinnate of various
colours, and strips of native cloth flattened upon them here and there.
Behind these instruments were built slight platforms, upon which stood a
number of young men who, beating violently with the palms of their hands upon
the drum-heads, produced those outrageous sounds which had awakened me in
the morning. Every few minutes these musical performers hopped
down from their elevation into the crowd below, and their places
were immediately supplied by fresh recruits. Thus an incessant
din was kept up that might have startled Pandemonium.
Precisely in the middle of the quadrangle were
placed perpendicularly in the ground, a hundred or more slender, fresh-cut
poles, stripped of their bark, and decorated at the end with a floating
pennon of white tappa; the whole being fenced about with a little picket of
canes. For what purpose these angular ornaments were intended I in vain
endeavoured to discover.
Another most striking feature of the performance was exhibited
by a score of old men, who sat cross-legged in the little pulpits, which
encircled the trunks of the immense trees growing in the middle of the
enclosure. These venerable gentlemen, who I presume were the priests,
kept up an uninterrupted monotonous chant, which was partly drowned in the
roar of drums. In the right hand they held a finely woven grass fan,
with a heavy black wooden handle curiously chased: these fans they kept in
continual motion.
But no attention whatever seemed to be paid to the drummers or
to the old priests; the individuals who composed the vast crowd present
being entirely taken up in chanting and laughing with one another, smoking,
drinking 'arva', and eating. For all the observation it attracted, or
the good it achieved, the whole savage orchestra might with great advantage
to its own members and the company in general, have ceased the prodigious
uproar they were making.
In vain I questioned Kory-Kory and others of the natives, as
to the meaning of the strange things that were going on; all
their explanations were conveyed in such a mass of outlandish
gibberish and gesticulation that I gave up the attempt in despair.
All that day the drums resounded, the priests chanted, and the multitude
feasted and roared till sunset, when the throng dispersed, and the Taboo
Groves were again abandoned to quiet and repose. The next day the same
scene was repeated until night, when this singular festival
terminated.
CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR
IDEAS SUGGESTED BY THE FEAST OF CALABASHES—INACCURACY OF
CERTAIN PUBLISHED ACCOUNTS OF THE ISLANDS—A REASON—NEGLECTED STATE
OF HEATHENISM IN THE VALLEY—EFFIGY OF A DEAD WARRIOR—A
SINGULAR SUPERSTITION—THE PRIEST KOLORY AND THE GOD MOA
ARTUA—AMAZING RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCE—A DILAPIDATED SHRINE—KORY-KORY AND
THE IDOL—AN INFERENCE
ALTHOUGH I had been baffled in my attempts to learn the origin
of the Feast of Calabashes, yet it seemed very plain to me that it was
principally, if not wholly, of a religious character. As a religious
solemnity, however, it had not at all corresponded with the horrible
descriptions of Polynesian worship which we have received in some published
narratives, and especially in those accounts of the evangelized islands with
which the missionaries have favoured us. Did not the sacred character
of these persons render the purity of their intentions unquestionable, I
should certainly be led to suppose that they had exaggerated the evils of
Paganism, in order to enhance the merit of their own disinterested
labours.
In a certain work incidentally treating of the 'Washington,
or Northern Marquesas Islands,' I have seen the frequent immolation of
human victims upon the altars of their gods, positively and repeatedly
charged upon the inhabitants. The same work gives also a rather minute
account of their religion—enumerates a great many of their
superstitions—and makes known the particular designations of numerous orders
of the priesthood. One would almost imagine from the long list that is
given of cannibal primates, bishops, arch-deacons, prebendaries, and other
inferior ecclesiastics, that the sacerdotal order far outnumbered the
rest of the population, and that the poor natives were more
severely priest-ridden than even the inhabitants of the papal states.
These accounts are likewise calculated to leave upon the reader's mind an
impression that human victims are daily cooked and served up upon the altars;
that heathenish cruelties of every description are continually practised; and
that these ignorant Pagans are in a state of the extremest wretchedness
in consequence of the grossness of their superstitions. Be
it observed, however, that all this information is given by a man who,
according to his own statement, was only at one of the islands, and remained
there but two weeks, sleeping every night on board his ship, and taking
little kid-glove excursions ashore in the daytime, attended by an armed
party.
Now, all I can say is, that in all my excursions through
the valley of Typee, I never saw any of these alleged enormities.
If any of them are practised upon the Marquesas Islands they
must certainly have come to my knowledge while living for months with a
tribe of savages, wholly unchanged from their original primitive condition,
and reputed the most ferocious in the South Seas.
The fact is, that there is a vast deal of
unintentional humbuggery in some of the accounts we have from scientific
men concerning the religious institutions of Polynesia.
These learned tourists generally obtain the greater part of
their information from retired old South-Sea rovers, who have domesticated
themselves among the barbarous tribes of the Pacific. Jack, who has
long been accustomed to the long-bow, and to spin tough yarns on the ship's
forecastle, invariably officiates as showman of the island on which he has
settled, and having mastered a few dozen words of the language, is supposed
to know all about the people who speak it. A natural desire to
make himself of consequence in the eyes of the strangers, prompts him to
lay claim to a much greater knowledge of such matters than he actually
possesses. In reply to incessant queries, he communicates not only all
he knows but a good deal more, and if there be any information deficient
still he is at no loss to supply it. The avidity with which his
anecdotes are noted down tickles his vanity, and his powers of invention
increase with the credulity auditors. He knows just the sort of
information wanted, and furnishes it to any extent.
This is not a supposed case; I have met with several
individuals like the one described, and I have been present at two or
three of their interviews with strangers.
Now, when the scientific voyager arrives at home with
his collection of wonders, he attempts, perhaps, to give a description of
some of the strange people he has been visiting. Instead of
representing them as a community of lusty savages, who are leading a merry,
idle, innocent life, he enters into a very circumstantial and learned
narrative of certain unaccountable superstitions and practices, about which
he knows as little as the islanders themselves. Having had little time,
and scarcely any opportunity, to become acquainted with the customs
he pretends to describe, he writes them down one after another in
an off-hand, haphazard style; and were the book thus produced to
be translated into the tongue of the people of whom it purports to give
the history, it would appear quite as wonderful to them as it does to the
American public, and much more improbable.
For my own part, I am free to confess my almost entire
inability to gratify any curiosity that may be felt with regard to
the theology of the valley. I doubt whether the
inhabitants themselves could do so. They are either too lazy or too
sensible to worry themselves about abstract points of religious belief.
While I was among them, they never held any synods or councils to settle
the principles of their faith by agitating them. An unbounded liberty
of conscience seemed to prevail. Those who pleased to do so were
allowed to repose implicit faith in an ill-favoured god with a large
bottle-nose and fat shapeless arms crossed upon his breast; whilst others
worshipped an image which, having no likeness either in heaven or on earth,
could hardly be called an idol. As the islanders always maintained a
discreet reserve with regard to my own peculiar views on religion,
I thought it would be excessively ill-bred of me to pry
into theirs.
But, although my knowledge of the religious faith of the
Typees was unavoidably limited, one of their superstitious
observances with which I became acquainted interested me
greatly.
In one of the most secluded portions of the valley within
a stone's cast of Fayaway's lake—for so I christened the scene of our
island yachting—and hard by a growth of palms, which stood ranged in order
along both banks of the stream, waving their green arms as if to do honour to
its passage, was the mausoleum of a deceased, warrior chief. Like all
the other edifices of any note, it was raised upon a small pi-pi of stones,
which, being of unusual height, was a conspicuous object from a
distance. A light thatching of bleached palmetto-leaves hung over it
like a self supported canopy; for it was not until you came very near that
you saw it was supported by four slender columns of bamboo rising at each
corner to a little more than the height of a man. A clear area of a
few yards surrounded the pi-pi, and was enclosed by four trunks of cocoanut
trees resting at the angles on massive blocks of stone. The place was
sacred. The sign of the inscrutable Taboo was seen in the shape of a
mystic roll of white tappa, suspended by a twisted cord of the same
material from the top of a slight pole planted within the enclosure*.
The sanctity of the spot appeared never to have been violated.
The stillness of the grave was there, and the calm solitude around was
beautiful and touching. The soft shadows of those lofty palm-trees!—I
can see them now—hanging over the little temple, as if to keep out the
intrusive sun.
*White appears to be the sacred colour among the
Marquesans.
On all sides as you approached this silent spot you caught
sight of the dead chief's effigy, seated in the stern of a canoe,
which was raised on a light frame a few inches above the level of
the pi-pi. The canoe was about seven feet in length; of a rich,
dark coloured wood, handsomely carved and adorned in many places
with variegated bindings of stained sinnate, into which were ingeniously
wrought a number of sparkling seashells, and a belt of the same shells ran
all round it. The body of the figure—of whatever material it might
have been made—was effectually concealed in a heavy robe of brown tappa,
revealing; only the hands and head; the latter skilfully carved in wood,
and surmounted by a superb arch of plumes. These plumes, in
the subdued and gentle gales which found access to this sequestered spot,
were never for one moment at rest, but kept nodding and waving over the
chief's brow. The long leaves of the palmetto drooped over the eaves,
and through them you saw the warrior holding his paddle with both hands in
the act of rowing, leaning forward and inclining his head, as if eager to
hurry on his voyage. Glaring at him forever, and face to face, was a
polished human skull, which crowned the prow of the canoe. The
spectral figurehead, reversed in its position, glancing backwards,
seemed to mock the impatient attitude of the warrior.
When I first visited this singular place with Kory-Kory, he
told me—or at least I so understood him—that the chief was paddling his
way to the realms of bliss, and bread-fruit—the Polynesian heaven—where
every moment the bread-fruit trees dropped their ripened spheres to the
ground, and where there was no end to the cocoanuts and bananas: there they
reposed through the livelong eternity upon mats much finer than those of
Typee; and every day bathed their glowing limbs in rivers of cocoanut
oil. In that happy land there were plenty of plumes and feathers,
and boars'-tusks and sperm-whale teeth, far preferable to all the shining
trinkets and gay tappa of the white men; and, best of all, women far lovelier
than the daughters of earth were there in abundance. 'A very pleasant
place,' Kory-Kory said it was; 'but after all, not much pleasanter, he
thought, than Typee.' 'Did he not then,' I asked him, 'wish to
accompany the warrior?' 'Oh no: he was very happy where he was; but
supposed that some time or other he would go in his own canoe.'
Thus far, I think, I clearly comprehended Kory-Kory. But
there was a singular expression he made use of at the time, enforced by as
singular a gesture, the meaning of which I would have given much to
penetrate. I am inclined to believe it must have been a proverb he
uttered; for I afterwards heard him repeat the same words several times, and
in what appeared to me to be a somewhat: similar sense. Indeed,
Kory-Kory had a great variety of short, smart-sounding sentences, with which
he frequently enlivened his discourse; and he introduced them with an air
which plainly intimated, that in his opinion, they settled the matter
in question, whatever it might be.
Could it have been then, that when I asked him whether he
desired to go to this heaven of bread-fruit, cocoanuts, and young
ladies, which he had been describing, he answered by saying
something equivalent to our old adage—'A bird in the hand is worth two
in the bush'?—if he did, Kory-Kory was a discreet and sensible fellow,
and I cannot sufficiently admire his shrewdness.
Whenever, in the course of my rambles through the valley
I happened to be near the chief's mausoleum, I always turned aside to
visit it. The place had a peculiar charm for me; I hardly know why, but
so it was. As I leaned over the railing and gazed upon the strange
effigy and watched the play of the feathery head-dress, stirred by the same
breeze which in low tones breathed amidst the lofty palm-trees, I loved to
yield myself up to the fanciful superstition of the islanders, and could
almost believe that the grim warrior was bound heavenward. In this
mood when I turned to depart, I bade him 'God speed, and a
pleasant voyage.' Aye, paddle away, brave chieftain, to the land
of spirits! To the material eye thou makest but little progress; but
with the eye of faith, I see thy canoe cleaving the bright waves, which die
away on those dimly looming shores of Paradise.
This strange superstition affords another evidence of the
fact, that however ignorant man may be, he still feels within him
his immortal spirit yearning, after the unknown future.
Although the religious theories of the islands were a
complete mystery to me, their practical every-day operation could not
be concealed. I frequently passed the little temples reposing in the
shadows of the taboo groves and beheld the offerings—mouldy fruit spread out
upon a rude altar, or hanging in half-decayed baskets around some uncouth
jolly-looking image; I was present during the continuance of the festival; I
daily beheld the grinning idols marshalled rank and file in the Hoolah
Hoolah ground, and was often in the habit of meeting those whom I supposed
to be the priests. But the temples seemed to be abandoned to solitude;
the festival had been nothing more than a jovial mingling of the tribe; the
idols were quite harmless as any other logs of wood; and the priests were the
merriest dogs in the valley.
In fact religious affairs in Typee were at a very low ebb:
all such matters sat very lightly upon the thoughtless inhabitants; and,
in the celebration of many of their strange rites, they appeared merely to
seek a sort of childish amusement.
A curious evidence of this was given in a remarkable ceremony
in which I frequently saw Mehevi and several other chefs and warriors of
note take part; but never a single female.
Among those whom I looked upon as forming the priesthood of
the valley, there was one in particular who often attracted my notice, and
whom I could not help regarding as the head of the order. He was a
noble looking man, in the prime of his life, and of a most benignant
aspect. The authority this man, whose name was Kolory, seemed to
exercise over the rest, the episcopal part he took in the Feast of
Calabashes, his sleek and complacent appearance, the mystic characters which
were tattooed upon his chest, and above all the mitre he frequently wore, in
the shape of a towering head-dress, consisting of part of a
cocoanut branch, the stalk planted uprightly on his brow, and the
leaflets gathered together and passed round the temples and behind
the ears, all these pointed him out as Lord Primate of Typee.
Kolory was a sort of Knight Templar—a soldier-priest; for he often
wore the dress of a Marquesan warrior, and always carried a long spear,
which, instead of terminating in a paddle at the lower end, after the general
fashion of these weapons, was curved into a heathenish-looking little
image. This instrument, however, might perhaps have been emblematic of
his double functions. With one end in carnal combat he transfixed the
enemies of his tribe; and with the other as a pastoral crook he kept in order
his spiritual flock. But this is not all I have to say about
Kolory.
His martial grace very often carried about with him what
seemed to me the half of a broken war-club. It was swathed round
with ragged bits of white tappa, and the upper part, which was intended to
represent a human head, was embellished with a strip of scarlet cloth of
European manufacture. It required little observation to discover that
this strange object was revered as a god. By the side of the big and
lusty images standing sentinel over the altars of the Hoolah Hoolah ground,
it seemed a mere pigmy in tatters. But appearances all the world over
are deceptive. Little men are sometimes very potent, and
rags sometimes cover very extensive pretensions. In fact, this
funny little image was the 'crack' god of the island; lording it over all
the wooden lubbers who looked so grim and dreadful; its name was Moa
Artua*. And it was in honour of Moa Artua, and for the entertainment of
those who believe in him, that the curious ceremony I am about to describe
was observed.
*The word 'Artua', although having some other significations,
is in nearly all the Polynesian dialects used as the general designation
of the gods.
Mehevi and the chieftains of the Ti have just risen from
their noontide slumbers. There are no affairs of state to dispose
of; and having eaten two or three breakfasts in the course of the morning,
the magnates of the valley feel no appetite as yet for dinner. How are
their leisure moments to be occupied? They smoke, they chat, and at
last one of their number makes a proposition to the rest, who joyfully
acquiescing, he darts out of the house, leaps from the pi-pi, and disappears
in the grove. Soon you see him returning with Kolory, who bears the
god Moa Artua in his arms, and carries in one hand a small
trough, hollowed out in the likeness of a canoe. The priest comes
along dandling his charge as if it were a lachrymose infant he
was endeavouring to put into a good humour. Presently entering
the Ti, he seats himself on the mats as composedly as a juggler about to
perform his sleight-of-hand tricks; and with the chiefs disposed in a circle
around him, commences his ceremony. In the first place he gives Moa
Artua an affectionate hug, then caressingly lays him to his breast, and,
finally, whispers something in his ear; the rest of the company listening
eagerly for a reply. But the baby-god is deaf or dumb,—perhaps
both, for never a word does, he utter. At last Kolory speaks a
little louder, and soon growing angry, comes boldly out with what he
has to say and bawls to him. He put me in mind of a choleric
fellow, who, after trying in vain to communicated a secret to a deaf
man, all at once flies into a passion and screams it out so that every one
may hear. Still Moa Artua remains as quiet as ever; and Kolory,
seemingly losing his temper, fetches him a box over the head, strips him of
his tappa and red cloth, and laying him in a state of nudity in a little
trough, covers him from sight. At this proceeding all present loudly
applaud and signify their approval by uttering the adjective 'motarkee' with
violent emphasis. Kolory however, is so desirous his conduct should
meet with unqualified approbation, that he inquires of each
individual separately whether under existing circumstances he has not
done perfectly right in shutting up Moa Artua. The
invariable response is 'Aa, Aa' (yes, yes), repeated over again and again
in a manner which ought to quiet the scruples of the
most conscientious. After a few moments Kolory brings forth his
doll again, and while arraying it very carefully in the tappa and
red cloth, alternately fondles and chides it. The toilet
being completed, he once more speaks to it aloud. The whole
company hereupon show the greatest interest; while the priest holding
Moa Artua to his ear interprets to them what he pretends the god
is confidentially communicating to him. Some items
intelligence appear to tickle all present amazingly; for one claps his
hands in a rapture; another shouts with merriment; and a third leaps
to his feet and capers about like a madman.
What under the sun Moa Artua on these occasions had to say
to Kolory I never could find out; but I could not help thinking that the
former showed a sad want of spirit in being disciplined into making those
disclosures, which at first he seemed bent on withholding. Whether the
priest honestly interpreted what he believed the divinity said to him, or
whether he was not all the while guilty of a vile humbug, I shall not presume
to decide. At any rate, whatever as coming from the god was imparted to
those present seemed to be generally of a complimentary nature: a
fact which illustrates the sagacity of Kolory, or else the
timeserving disposition of this hardly used deity.
Moa Artua having nothing more to say, his bearer goes to
nursing him again, in which occupation, however, he is soon interrupted by
a question put by one of the warriors to the god. Kolory hereupon
snatches it up to his ear again, and after listening attentively, once more
officiates as the organ of communication. A multitude of questions and
answers having passed between the parties, much to the satisfaction of those
who propose them, the god is put tenderly to bed in the trough, and the whole
company unite in a long chant, led off by Kolory. This ended,
the ceremony is over; the chiefs rise to their feet in high good humour,
and my Lord Archbishop, after chatting awhile, and regaling himself with a
whiff or two from a pipe of tobacco, tucks the canoe under his arm and
marches off with it.
The whole of these proceedings were like those of a parcel
of children playing with dolls and baby houses.
For a youngster scarcely ten inches high, and with so few
early advantages as he doubtless had had, Moa Artua was certainly
a precocious little fellow if he really said all that was imputed to him;
but for what reason this poor devil of a deity, thus cuffed about, cajoled,
and shut up in a box, was held in greater estimation than the full-grown and
dignified personages of the Taboo Groves, I cannot divine. And yet
Mehevi, and other chiefs of unquestionable veracity—to say nothing of the
Primate himself—assured me over and over again that Moa Artua was
the tutelary deity of Typee, and was more to be held in honour than
a whole battalion of the clumsy idols in the Hoolah Hoolah
grounds.
Kory-Kory—who seemed to have devoted considerable attention
to the study of theology, as he knew the names of all the graven images in
the valley, and often repeated them over to me—likewise entertained some
rather enlarged ideas with regard to the character and pretensions of Moa
Artua. He once gave me to understand, with a gesture there was no
misconceiving, that if he (Moa Artua) were so minded he could cause a
cocoanut tree to sprout out of his (Kory-Kory's) head; and that it would be
the easiest thing in life for him (Moa Artua) to take the whole island of
Nukuheva in his mouth and dive down to the bottom of the sea with
it.
But in sober seriousness, I hardly knew what to make of
the religion of the valley. There was nothing that so much
perplexed the illustrious Cook, in his intercourse with the South
Sea islanders, as their sacred rites. Although this prince
of navigators was in many instances assisted by interpreters in
the prosecution of his researches, he still frankly acknowledges that he
was at a loss to obtain anything like a clear insight into the puzzling
arcana of their faith. A similar admission has been made by other
eminent voyagers: by Carteret, Byron, Kotzebue, and Vancouver.
For my own part, although hardly a day passed while I
remained upon the island that I did not witness some religious ceremony
or other, it was very much like seeing a parcel of 'Freemasons' making
secret signs to each other; I saw everything, but could comprehend
nothing.
On the whole, I am inclined to believe, that the islanders in
the Pacific have no fixed and definite ideas whatever on the subject of
religion. I am persuaded that Kolory himself would be effectually posed
were he called upon to draw up the articles of his faith and pronounce the
creed by which he hoped to be saved. In truth, the Typees, so far as
their actions evince, submitted to no laws human or divine—always excepting
the thrice mysterious Taboo. The 'independent electors' of the valley
were not to be brow-beaten by chiefs, priests, idol or devils. As
for the luckless idols, they received more hard knocks
than supplications. I do not wonder that some of them looked so
grim, and stood so bolt upright as if fearful of looking to the right or
the left lest they should give any one offence. The fact is, they had
to carry themselves 'PRETTY STRAIGHT,' or suffer the consequences.
Their worshippers were such a precious set of fickle-minded and irreverent
heathens, that there was no telling when they might topple one of them over,
break it to pieces, and making a fire with it on the very altar itself, fall
to roasting the offerings of bread-fruit, and at them in spite of its
teeth.
In how little reverence these unfortunate deities were held
by the natives was on one occasion most convincingly proved
to me.—Walking with Kory-Kory through the deepest recesses of the groves,
I perceived a curious looking image, about six feet in height which
originally had been placed upright against a low pi-pi, surmounted by a
ruinous bamboo temple, but having become fatigued and weak in the knees, was
now carelessly leaning against it. The idol was partly concealed by the
foliage of a tree which stood near, and whose leafy boughs drooped over
the pile of stones, as if to protect the rude fane from the decay to which
it was rapidly hastening. The image itself was nothing more than a
grotesquely shaped log, carved in the likeness of a portly naked man with the
arms clasped over the head, the jaws thrown wide apart, and its thick
shapeless legs bowed into an arch. It was much decayed. The lower
part was overgrown with a bright silky moss. Thin spears of grass
sprouted from the distended mouth, and fringed the outline of the head and
arms. His godship had literally attained a green old age. All
its prominent points were bruised and battered, or entirely
rotted away. The nose had taken its departure, and from the
general appearance of the head it might have, been supposed that
the wooden divinity, in despair at the neglect of its worshippers, had
been trying to beat its own brains out against the surrounding
trees.
I drew near to inspect more closely this strange object
of idolatry, but halted reverently at the distance of two or three paces,
out of regard to the religious prejudices of my valet. As soon,
however, as Kory-Kory perceived that I was in one of my inquiring, scientific
moods, to my astonishment, he sprang to the side of the idol, and pushing it
away from the stones against which it rested, endeavoured to make it stand
upon its legs. But the divinity had lost the use of them altogether;
and while Kory-Kory was trying to prop it up, placing a stick between
it and the pi-pi, the monster fell clumsily to the ground, and would have
infallibly have broken its neck had not Kory-Kory providentially broken its
fall by receiving its whole weight on his own half-crushed back. I
never saw the honest fellow in such a rage before. He leaped furiously
to his feet, and seizing the stick, began beating the poor image: every
moment, or two pausing and talking to it in the most violent manner, as if
upbraiding it for the accident. When his indignation had subsided a
little he whirled the idol about most profanely, so as to give me
an opportunity of examining it on all sides. I am quite sure I never
should have presumed to have taken such liberties with the god myself, and I
was not a little shocked at Kory-Kory's impiety.
This anecdote speaks for itself. When one of the
inferior order of natives could show such contempt for a venerable and
decrepit God of the Groves, what the state of religion must be among
the people in general is easy to be imagined. In truth, I regard
the Typees as a back-slidden generation. They are sunk in
religious sloth, and require a spiritual revival. A long prosperity
of bread-fruit and cocoanuts has rendered them remiss in the performance
of their higher obligations. The wood-rot malady is spreading among the
idols—the fruit upon their altars is becoming offensive—the temples
themselves need rethatching—the tattooed clergy are altogether too
light-hearted and lazy—and their flocks are going astray.
CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE
GENERAL INFORMATION GATHERED AT THE FESTIVAL—PERSONAL BEAUTY
OF THE TYPEES—THEIR SUPERIORITY OVER THE INHABITANTS OF THE
OTHER ISLANDS—DIVERSITY OF COMPLEXION—A VEGETABLE COSMETIC
AND OINTMENT—TESTIMONY OF VOYAGERS TO THE UNCOMMON BEAUTY OF
THE MARQUESANS—FEW EVIDENCES OF INTERCOURSE WITH
CIVILIZED BEINGS—DILAPIDATED MUSKET—PRIMITIVE SIMPLICITY OF
GOVERNMENT— REGAL DIGNITY OF MEHEVI
ALTHOUGH I had been unable during the late festival to
obtain information on many interesting subjects which had much excited my
curiosity, still that important event had not passed by without adding
materially to my general knowledge of the islanders.
I was especially struck by the physical strength and beauty
which they displayed, by their great superiority in these respects
over the inhabitants of the neighbouring bay of Nukuheva, and by
the singular contrasts they presented among themselves in their various
shades of complexion.
In beauty of form they surpassed anything I had ever
seen. Not a single instance of natural deformity was observable in all
the throng attending the revels. Occasionally I noticed among
the men the scars of wounds they had received in battle; and sometimes,
though very seldom, the loss of a finger, an eye, or an arm, attributable to
the same cause. With these exceptions, every individual appeared free
from those blemishes which sometimes mar the effect of an otherwise perfect
form. But their physical excellence did not merely consist in an
exemption from these evils; nearly every individual of their number might
have been taken for a sculptor's model.
When I remembered that these islanders derived no advantage
from dress, but appeared in all the naked simplicity of nature, I could
not avoid comparing them with the fine gentlemen and dandies who promenade
such unexceptionable figures in our frequented thoroughfares. Stripped
of the cunning artifices of the tailor, and standing forth in the garb of
Eden—what a sorry, set of round-shouldered, spindle-shanked, crane-necked
varlets would civilized men appear! Stuffed calves, padded breasts,
and scientifically cut pantaloons would then avail them nothing, and the
effect would be truly deplorable.
Nothing in the appearance of the islanders struck me
more forcibly than the whiteness of their teeth. The novelist
always compares the masticators of his heroine to ivory; but I
boldly pronounce the teeth of the Typee to be far more beautiful
than ivory itself. The jaws of the oldest graybeards among them
were much better garnished than those of most of the youths of civilized
countries; while the teeth of the young and middle-aged, in their purity and
whiteness, were actually dazzling to the eye. Their marvellous
whiteness of the teeth is to be ascribed to the pure vegetable diet of these
people, and the uninterrupted healthfulness of their natural mode of
life.
The men, in almost every instance, are of lofty stature,
scarcely ever less than six feet in height, while the other sex
are uncommonly diminutive. The early period of life at which
the human form arrives at maturity in this generous tropical
climate, likewise deserves to be mentioned. A little creature, not
more than thirteen years of age, and who in other particulars might
be regarded as a mere child, is often seen nursing her own baby, whilst
lads who, under less ripening skies, would be still at school, are here
responsible fathers of families.
On first entering the Typee Valley, I had been struck with
the marked contrast presented by its inhabitants with those of the bay I
had previously left. In the latter place, I had not been favourably
impressed with the personal appearance of the male portion of the population;
although with the females, excepting in some truly melancholy instances, I
had been wonderfully pleased. I had observed that even the little
intercourse Europeans had carried on with the Nukuheva natives had not
failed to leave its traces amongst them. One of the most
dreadful curses under which humanity labours had commenced its
havocks, and betrayed, as it ever does among the South Sea islanders,
the most aggravated symptoms. From this, as from all other
foreign inflictions, the yet uncontaminated tenants of the Typee
Valley were wholly exempt; and long may they continue so. Better
will it be for them for ever to remain the happy and innocent heathens and
barbarians that they now are, than, like the wretched inhabitants of the
Sandwich Islands, to enjoy the mere name of Christians without experiencing
any of the vital operations of true religion, whilst, at the same time, they
are made the victims of the worst vices and evils of civilized
life.
Apart, however, from these considerations, I am inclined
to believe that there exists a radical difference between the two tribes,
if indeed they are not distinct races of men. To those who have merely
touched at Nukuheva Bay, without visiting other portions of the island, it
would hardly appear credible the diversities presented between the various
small clans inhabiting so diminutive a spot. But the hereditary
hostility which has existed between them for ages, fully accounts for
this.
Not so easy, however, is it to assign an adequate cause for
the endless variety of complexions to be seen in the Typee Valley.
During the festival, I had noticed several young females whose skins were
almost as white as any Saxon damsel's; a slight dash of the mantling brown
being all that marked the difference. This comparative fairness of
complexion, though in a great degree perfectly natural, is partly the result
of an artificial process, and of an entire exclusion from the sun. The
juice of the 'papa' root found in great abundance at the head of the valley,
is held in great esteem as a cosmetic, with which many of the
females daily anoint their whole person. The habitual use of it
whitens and beautifies the skin. Those of the young girls who resort
to this method of heightening their charms, never expose themselves selves
to the rays of the sun; an observance, however, that produces little or no
inconvenience, since there are but few of the inhabited portions of the vale
which are not shaded over with a spreading canopy of boughs, so that one may
journey from house to house, scarcely deviating from the direct course, and
yet never once see his shadow cast upon the ground.
The 'papa', when used, is suffered to remain upon the skin
for several hours; being of a light green colour, it consequently imparts
for the time a similar hue to the complexion. Nothing, therefore, can
be imagined more singular than the appearance of these nearly naked damsels
immediately after the application of the cosmetic. To look at one of
them you would almost suppose she was some vegetable in an unripe state; and
that, instead of living in the shade for ever, she ought to be placed out in
the sun to ripen.
All the islanders are more or less in the habit of
anointing themselves; the women preferring the 'aker' to 'papa', and
the men using the oil of the cocoanut. Mehevi was remarkable fond
of mollifying his entire cuticle with this ointment. Sometimes
he might be seen, with his whole body fairly reeking with the perfumed oil
of the nut, looking as if he had just emerged from a soap-boiler's vat, or
had undergone the process of dipping in a tallow-chandlery. To this
cause perhaps, united to their frequent bathing and extreme cleanliness, is
ascribable, in a great measure, the marvellous purity and smoothness of
skin exhibited by the natives in general.
The prevailing tint among the women of the valley was a
light olive, and of this style of complexion Fayaway afforded the
most beautiful example. Others were still darker; while not a
few were of a genuine golden colour, and some of a swarthy hue.
As agreeing with much previously mentioned in this narrative
I may here observe that Mendanna, their discoverer, in his account of the
Marquesas, described the natives as wondrously beautiful to behold, and as
nearly resembling the people of southern Europe. The first of these
islands seen by Mendanna was La Madelena, which is not far distant from
Nukuheva; and its inhabitants in every respect resemble those dwelling on
that and the other islands of the group. Figueroa, the chronicler
of Mendanna's voyage, says, that on the morning the land was descried,
when the Spaniards drew near the shore, there sallied forth, in rude
progression, about seventy canoes, and at the same time many of the
inhabitants (females I presume) made towards the ships by swimming. He
adds, that 'in complexion they were nearly white; of good stature, and finely
formed; and on their faces and bodies were delineated representations of
fishes and other devices'. The old Don then goes on to say, 'There
came, among others, two lads paddling their canoe, whose eyes were fixed
on the ship; they had beautiful faces and the most promising animation of
countenance; and were in all things so becoming, that the pilot-mayor Quiros
affirmed, nothing in his life ever caused him so much regret as the leaving
such fine creatures to be lost in that country.'* More than two hundred
years have gone by since the passage of which the above is a translation
was written; and it appears to me now, as I read it, as fresh and true as
if written but yesterday. The islanders are still the same; and I have
seen boys in the Typee Valley of whose 'beautiful faces' and promising
'animation of countenance' no one who has not beheld them can form any
adequate idea. Cook, in the account of his voyage, pronounces the
Marquesans as by far the most splendid islanders in the South Seas.
Stewart, the chaplain of the U.S. ship Vincennes, in his 'Scenes in the South
Seas', expresses, in more than one place, his amazement at the surpassing
loveliness of the women; and says that many of the Nukuheva damsels reminded
him forcibly of the most celebrated beauties in his own land. Fanning,
a Yankee mariner of some reputation, likewise records his lively impressions
of the physical appearance of these people; and Commodore David Porter of
the U.S. frigate Essex, is said to have been vastly smitten by the beauty of
the ladies. Their great superiority over all other Polynesians cannot
fail to attract the notice of those who visit the principal groups in the
Pacific. The voluptuous Tahitians are the only people who at all
deserve to be compared with them; while the dark-haired Hawaiians and the
woolly-headed Feejees are immeasurably inferior to them. The
distinguishing characteristic of the Marquesan islanders, and that which at
once strikes you, is the European cast of their features—a peculiarity
seldom observable among other uncivilized people. Many of their faces
present profiles classically beautiful, and in the valley of Typee I saw
several who, like the stranger Marnoo, were in every respect models of
beauty.
* This passage, which is cited as an almost literal
translation from the original, I found in a small volume
entitled 'Circumnavigation of the Globe, in which volume are
several extracts from 'Dalrymple's Historical Collections'.
The last-mentioned work I have never seen, but it is said to contain a
very correct English version of great part of the learned Doctor Christoval
Suaverde da Figueroa's History of Mendanna's Voyage, published at Madrid,
A.D. 1613.
Some of the natives present at the Feast of Calabashes
had displayed a few articles of European dress; disposed however, about
their persons after their own peculiar fashion. Among these I perceived
two pieces of cotton-cloth which poor Toby and myself had bestowed upon our
youthful guides the afternoon we entered the valley. They were
evidently reserved for gala days; and during those of the festival they
rendered the young islanders who wore them very distinguished
characters. The small number who were similarly adorned, and the great
value they appeared to place upon the most common and most trivial
articles, furnished ample evidence of the very restricted intercourse
they held with vessels touching at the island. A few
cotton handkerchiefs, of a gay pattern, tied about the neck, and suffered
to fall over the shoulder; strips of fanciful calico, swathed about the
loins, were nearly all I saw.
Indeed, throughout the valley, there were few things of any
kind to be seen of European origin. All I ever saw, besides
the articles just alluded to, were the six muskets preserved in the Ti,
and three or four similar implements of warfare hung up in other houses; some
small canvas bags, partly filled with bullets and powder, and half a dozen
old hatchet-heads, with the edges blunted and battered to such a degree as to
render them utterly useless. These last seemed to be regarded as nearly
worthless by the natives; and several times they held up, one of
them before me, and throwing it aside with a gesture of
disgust, manifested their contempt for anything that could so soon
become unserviceable.
But the muskets, the powder, and the bullets were held in
most extravagant esteem. The former, from their great age and
the peculiarities they exhibited, were well worthy a place in
any antiquarian's armoury. I remember in particular one that hung
in the Ti, and which Mehevi—supposing as a matter of course that I was
able to repair it—had put into my hands for that purpose. It was one
of those clumsy, old-fashioned, English pieces known generally as Tower Hill
muskets, and, for aught I know, might have been left on the island by
Wallace, Carteret, Cook, or Vancouver. The stock was half rotten and
worm-eaten; the lock was as rusty and about as well adapted to its ostensible
purpose as an old door-hinge; the threading of the screws about
the trigger was completely worn away; while the barrel shook in
the wood. Such was the weapon the chief desired me to restore to
its original condition. As I did not possess the accomplishments
of a gunsmith, and was likewise destitute of the necessary tools, I was
reluctantly obliged to signify my inability to perform the task. At
this unexpected communication Mehevi regarded me, for a moment, as if he half
suspected I was some inferior sort of white man, who after all did not know
much more than a Typee. However, after a most laboured explanation of
the matter, I succeeded in making him understand the extreme difficulty of
the task. Scarcely satisfied with my apologies, however, he marched
off with the superannuated musket in something of a huff, as if he would
no longer expose it to the indignity of being manipulated by such unskilful
fingers.
During the festival I had not failed to remark the simplicity
of manner, the freedom from all restraint, and, to certain degree, the
equality of condition manifested by the natives in general. No one
appeared to assume any arrogant pretensions. There was little more than
a slight difference in costume to distinguish the chiefs from the other
natives. All appeared to mix together freely, and without any reserve;
although I noticed that the wishes of a chief, even when delivered in the
mildest tone, received the same immediate obedience which elsewhere would
have been only accorded to a peremptory command. What may be
the extent of the authority of the chiefs over the rest of the tribe, I
will not venture to assert; but from all I saw during my stay in the valley,
I was induced to believe that in matters concerning the general welfare it
was very limited. The required degree of deference towards them,
however, was willingly and cheerfully yielded; and as all authority is
transmitted from father to son, I have no doubt that one of the effects here,
as elsewhere, of high birth, is to induce respect and obedience.
The civil institutions of the Marquesas Islands appear to be
in this, as in other respects, directly the reverse of those of
the Tahitian and Hawiian groups, where the original power of the king and
chiefs was far more despotic than that of any tyrant in civilized
countries. At Tahiti it used to be death for one of the inferior orders
to approach, without permission, under the shadow, of the king's house; or to
fail in paying the customary reverence when food destined for the king was
borne past them by his messengers. At the Sandwich Islands, Kaahumanu,
the gigantic old dowager queen—a woman of nearly four hundred pounds
weight, and who is said to be still living at Mowee—was accustomed,
in some of her terrific gusts of temper, to snatch up an ordinary sized
man who had offended her, and snap his spine across her knee.
Incredible as this may seem, it is a fact. While at Lahainaluna—the
residence of this monstrous Jezebel—a humpbacked wretch was pointed out to
me, who, some twenty-five years previously, had had the vertebrae of his
backbone very seriously discomposed by his gentle mistress.
The particular grades of rank existing among the chiefs of
Typee, I could not in all cases determine. Previous to the Feast
of Calabashes I had been puzzled what particular station to assign to
Mehevi. But the important part he took upon that occasion convinced me
that he had no superior among the inhabitants of the valley. I had
invariably noticed a certain degree of deference paid to him by all with whom
I had ever seen him brought in contact; but when I remembered that my
wanderings had been confined to a limited portion of the valley, and that
towards the sea a number of distinguished chiefs resided, some of whom
had separately visited me at Marheyo's house, and whom, until
the Festival, I had never seen in the company of Mehevi, I felt disposed
to believe that his rank after all might not be particularly
elevated.
The revels, however, had brought together all the warriors
whom I had seen individually and in groups at different times
and places. Among them Mehevi moved with an easy air of
superiority which was not to be mistaken; and he whom I had only looked at
as the hospitable host of the Ti, and one of the military leaders of the
tribe, now assumed in my eyes the dignity of royal station. His
striking costume, no less than his naturally commanding figure, seemed indeed
to give him pre-eminence over the rest. The towering helmet of
feathers that he wore raised him in height above all who surrounded him; and
though some others were similarly adorned, the length and luxuriance of their
plumes were inferior to his.
Mehevi was in fact the greatest of the chiefs—the head of
his clan—the sovereign of the valley; and the simplicity of the social
institutions of the people could not have been more completely proved than by
the fact, that after having been several weeks in the valley, and almost in
daily intercourse with Mehevi, I should have remained until the time of the
festival ignorant of his regal character. But a new light had now
broken in upon me. The Ti was the palace—and Mehevi the king.
Both the one and the other of a most simple and patriarchal nature:
it must be allowed, and wholly unattended by the ceremonious pomp which
usually surrounds the purple.
After having made this discovery I could not avoid
congratulating myself that Mehevi had from the first taken me as it were
under his royal protection, and that he still continued to entertain for
me the warmest regard, as far at least as I was enabled to judge from
appearances. For the future I determined to pay most assiduous court to
him, hoping that eventually through his kindness I might obtain my
liberty.
CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX
KING MEHEVI—ALLUSION TO HIS HAWIIAN MAJESTY—CONDUCT OF
MARHEYO AND MEHEVI IN CERTAIN DELICATE MATTERS—PECULIAR SYSTEM
OF MARRIAGE—NUMBER OF POPULATION—UNIFORMITY—EMBALMING—PLACES
OF SEPULTURE—FUNERAL OBSEQUIES AT NUKUHEVA-NUMBER OF INHABITANTS
IN TYPEE—LOCATION OF THE DWELLINGS—HAPPINESS ENJOYED IN THE VALLEY—A
WARNING—SOME IDEAS WITH REGARD TO THE PRESENT STATE OF THE HAWIIANS—STORY
OF A MISSIONARY'S WIFE—FASHIONABLE EQUIPAGES AT
OAHU—REFLECTIONS
KING MEHEVI!—A goodly sounding title—and why should I
not bestow it upon the foremost man in the valley of Typee?
The republican missionaries of Oahu cause to be gazetted in the
Court Journal, published at Honolulu, the most trivial movement of
'his gracious majesty' King Kammehammaha III, and 'their highnesses the
princes of the blood royal'.* And who is his 'gracious majesty', and
what the quality of this blood royal'?—His 'gracious majesty' is a fat,
lazy, negro-looking blockhead, with as little character as power. He
has lost the noble traits of the barbarian, without acquiring the redeeming
graces of a civilized being; and, although a member of the Hawiian
Temperance Society, is a most inveterate dram-drinker.
*Accounts like these are sometimes copied into English
and American journals. They lead the reader to infer that the
arts and customs of civilized life are rapidly refining the natives of the
Sandwich Islands. But let no one be deceived by these accounts.
The chiefs swagger about in gold lace and broadcloth, while the great mass of
the common people are nearly as primitive in their appearance as in the days
of Cook. In the progress of events at these islands, the two classes
are receding from each other; the chiefs are daily becoming more luxurious
and extravagant in their style of living, and the common people more and
more destitute of the necessaries and decencies of life. But the end to
which both will arrive at last will be the same: the one are fast destroying
themselves by sensual indulgences, and the other are fast being destroyed by
a complication of disorders, and the want of wholesome food. The
resources of the domineering chiefs are wrung from the starving serfs, and
every additional bauble with which they bedeck themselves is purchased by
the sufferings of their bondsmen; so that the measure of gew-gaw refinement
attained by the chiefs is only an index to the actual state in which the
greater portion of the population lie grovelling.
The 'blood royal' is an extremely thick, depraved fluid;
formed principally of raw fish, bad brandy, and European sweetmeats,
and is charged with a variety of eruptive humours, which are developed in
sundry blotches and pimples upon the august face of 'majesty itself', and the
angelic countenances of the 'princes and princesses of the blood
royal'!
Now, if the farcical puppet of a chief magistrate in the
Sandwich Islands be allowed the title of King, why should it be
withheld from the noble savage Mehevi, who is a thousand times more
worthy of the appellation? All hail, therefore, Mehevi, King of
the Cannibal Valley, and long life and prosperity to his
Typeean majesty! May Heaven for many a year preserve him,
the uncompromising foe of Nukuheva and the French, if a hostile attitude
will secure his lovely domain from the remorseless inflictions of South Sea
civilization.
Previously to seeing the Dancing Widows I had little idea
that there were any matrimonial relations subsisting in Typee, and
I should as soon have thought of a Platonic affection being cultivated
between the sexes, as of the solemn connection of man and wife. To be
sure, there were old Marheyo and Tinor, who seemed to have a sort of nuptial
understanding with one another; but for all that, I had sometimes observed a
comical-looking old gentleman dressed in a suit of shabby tattooing, who had
the audacity to take various liberties with the lady, and that too in the
very presence of the old warrior her husband, who looked on as good-naturedly
as if nothing was happening. This behaviour, until subsequent
discoveries enlightened me, puzzled me more than anything else I witnessed in
Typee.
As for Mehevi, I had supposed him a confirmed bachelor, as
well as most of the principal chiefs. At any rate, if they had
wives and families, they ought to have been ashamed of themselves;
for sure I am, they never troubled themselves about any
domestic affairs. In truth, Mehevi seemed to be the president of a
club of hearty fellows, who kept 'Bachelor's Hall' in fine style at the
Ti. I had no doubt but that they regarded children as
odious incumbrances; and their ideas of domestic felicity
were sufficiently shown in the fact, that they allowed no
meddlesome housekeepers to turn topsy-turvy those snug little
arrangements they had made in their comfortable dwelling. I
strongly suspected however, that some of these jolly bachelors
were carrying on love intrigues with the maidens of the tribe; although
they did not appear publicly to acknowledge them. I happened to pop
upon Mehevi three or four times when he was romping—in a most undignified
manner for a warrior king—with one of the prettiest little witches in the
valley. She lived with an old woman and a young man, in a house near
Marheyo's; and although in appearance a mere child herself, had a noble
boy about a year old, who bore a marvellous resemblance to Mehevi, whom I
should certainly have believed to have been the father, were it not that the
little fellow had no triangle on his face—but on second thoughts, tattooing
is not hereditary. Mehevi, however, was not the only person upon whom the
damsel Moonoony smiled—the young fellow of fifteen, who
permanently resided in the home with her, was decidedly in her good
graces. I sometimes beheld both him and the chief making love at the
same time. Is it possible, thought I, that the valiant warrior
can consent to give up a corner in the thing he loves? This too
was a mystery which, with others of the same kind, was
afterwards satisfactorily explained.
During the second day of the Feast of
Calabashes, Kory-Kory—being determined that I should have some
understanding on these matters—had, in the course of his
explanations, directed my attention to a peculiarity I had frequently
remarked among many of the females; principally those of a mature age
and rather matronly appearance. This consisted in having the
right hand and the left foot most elaborately tattooed; whilst the rest of
the body was wholly free from the operation of the art, with the exception of
the minutely dotted lips and slight marks on the shoulders, to which I have
previously referred as comprising the sole tattooing exhibited by Fayaway, in
common with other young girls of her age. The hand and foot thus
embellished were, according to Kory-Kory, the distinguishing badge of
wedlock, so far as that social and highly commendable institution is
known among those people. It answers, indeed, the same purpose as
the plain gold ring worn by our fairer spouses.
After Kory-Kory's explanation of the subject, I was for some
time studiously respectful in the presence of all females
thus distinguished, and never ventured to indulge in the
slightest approach to flirtation with any of their number. Married
women, to be sure!—I knew better than to offend them.
A further insight, however, into the peculiar domestic customs
of the inmates of the valley did away in a measure with the severity of my
scruples, and convinced me that I was deceived in some at least of my
conclusions. A regular system of polygamy exists among the islanders;
but of a most extraordinary nature,—a plurality of husbands, instead of
wives! and this solitary fact speaks volumes for the gentle disposition
of the male population.
Where else, indeed, could such a practice exist, even for
a single day?—Imagine a revolution brought about in a Turkish seraglio,
and the harem rendered the abode of bearded men; or conceive some beautiful
woman in our own country running distracted at the sight of her numerous
lovers murdering one another before her eyes, out of jealousy for the
unequal distribution of her favours!—Heaven defend us from such a
state of things!—We are scarcely amiable and forbearing enough to submit
to it.
I was not able to learn what particular ceremony was observed
in forming the marriage contract, but am inclined to think that it must
have been of a very simple nature. Perhaps the mere 'popping the
question', as it is termed with us, might have been followed by an immediate
nuptial alliance. At any rate, I have more than one reason to believe
that tedious courtships are unknown in the valley of Typee.
The males considerably outnumber the females. This holds
true of many of the islands of Polynesia, although the reverse of what
is the case in most civilized countries. The girls are first
wooed and won, at a very tender age, by some stripling in the household in
which they reside. This, however, is a mere frolic of the affections,
and no formal engagement is contracted. By the time this first love has
a little subsided, a second suitor presents himself, of graver years, and
carries both boy and girl away to his own habitation. This
disinterested and generous-hearted fellow now weds the young couple—marrying
damsel and lover at the same time—and all three thenceforth live together
as harmoniously as so many turtles. I have heard of some men who in
civilized countries rashly marry large families with their wives, but had no
idea that there was any place where people married supplementary husbands
with them. Infidelity on either side is very rare. No man has
more than one wife, and no wife of mature years has less than two
husbands,—sometimes she has three, but such instances are not
frequent. The marriage tie, whatever it may be, does not appear to be
indissoluble; for separations occasionally happen. These, however, when
they do take place, produce no unhappiness, and are preceded by
no bickerings; for the simple reason, that an ill-used wife or a henpecked
husband is not obliged to file a bill in Chancery to obtain a divorce.
As nothing stands in the way of a separation, the matrimonial yoke sits
easily and lightly, and a Typee wife lives on very pleasant and sociable
terms with her husband. On the whole, wedlock, as known among these
Typees, seems to be of a more distinct and enduring nature than is usually
the case with barbarous people. A baneful promiscuous intercourse of
the sexes is hereby avoided, and virtue, without being clamorously
invoked, is, as it were, unconsciously practised.
The contrast exhibited between the Marquesas and other islands
of the Pacific in this respect, is worthy of being noticed.
At Tahiti the marriage tie was altogether unknown; and the relation of
husband and wife, father and son, could hardly be said to exist. The
Arreory Society—one of the most singular institutions that ever existed in
any part of the world—spread universal licentiousness over the island.
It was the voluptuous character of these people which rendered the disease
introduced among them by De Bougainville's ships, in 1768,
doubly destructive. It visited them like a plague, sweeping them off
by hundreds.
Notwithstanding the existence of wedlock among the Typees,
the Scriptural injunction to increase and multiply seems to be
but indifferently attended to. I never saw any of those
large families in arithmetical or step-ladder progression which one often
meets with at home. I never knew of more than two youngsters living
together in the same home, and but seldom even that number. As for the
women, it was very plain that the anxieties of the nursery but seldom
disturbed the serenity of their souls; and they were never seen going about
the valley with half a score of little ones tagging at their apron-strings,
or rather at the bread-fruit-leaf they usually wore in the rear.
The ratio of increase among all the Polynesian nations is
very small; and in some places as yet uncorrupted by intercourse
with Europeans, the births would appear not very little to outnumber the
deaths; the population in such instances remaining nearly the same for
several successive generations, even upon those islands seldom or never
desolated by wars, and among people with whom the crime of infanticide is
altogether unknown. This would seem expressively ordained by Providence
to prevent the overstocking of the islands with a race too indolent to
cultivate the ground, and who, for that reason alone, would, by any
considerable increase in their numbers, be exposed to the most
deplorable misery. During the entire period of my stay in the valley
of Typee, I never saw more than ten or twelve children under the age of
six months, and only became aware of two births.
It is to the absence of the marriage tie that the late
rapid decrease of the population of the Sandwich Islands and of Tahiti is
in part to be ascribed. The vices and diseases introduced among these
unhappy people annually swell the ordinary mortality of the islands, while,
from the same cause, the originally small number of births is proportionally
decreased. Thus the progress of the Hawiians and Tahitians to utter
extinction is accelerated in a sort of compound ratio.
I have before had occasion to remark, that I never saw any of
the ordinary signs of a pace of sepulture in the valley, a circumstance
which I attributed, at the time, to my living in a particular part of it, and
being forbidden to extend my rambles to any considerable distance towards the
sea. I have since thought it probable, however, that the Typees, either
desirous of removing from their sight the evidences of mortality, or
prompted by a taste for rural beauty, may have some charming
cemetery situation in the shadowy recesses along the base of
the mountains. At Nukuheva, two or three large
quadrangular 'pi-pis', heavily flagged, enclosed with regular stone walls,
and shaded over and almost hidden from view by the interlacing branches of
enormous trees, were pointed out to me as burial-places. The bodies, I
understood, were deposited in rude vaults beneath the flagging, and were
suffered to remain there without being disinterred. Although nothing
could be more strange and gloomy than the aspect of these places, where
the lofty trees threw their dark shadows over rude blocks of stone,
a stranger looking at them would have discerned none of the ordinary
evidences of a place of sepulture.
During my stay in the valley, as none of its inmates were
so accommodating as to die and be buried in order to gratify my curiosity
with regard to their funeral rites, I was reluctantly obliged to remain in
ignorance of them. As I have reason to believe, however, the
observances of the Typees in these matters are the same with those of all the
other tribes in the island, I will here relate a scene I chanced to witness
at Nukuheva.
A young man had died, about daybreak, in a house near the
beach. I had been sent ashore that morning, and saw a good deal of
the preparations they were making for his obsequies. The
body, neatly wrapped in a new white tappa, was laid out in an open shed of
cocoanut boughs, upon a bier constructed of elastic bamboos ingeniously
twisted together. This was supported about two feet from the ground, by
large canes planted uprightly in the earth. Two females, of a dejected
appearance, watched by its side, plaintively chanting and beating the air
with large grass fans whitened with pipe-clay. In the dwelling-house
adjoining a numerous company we assembled, and various articles of food
were being prepared for consumption. Two or three
individuals, distinguished by head-dresses of beautiful tappa, and wearing
a great number of ornaments, appeared to officiate as masters of the
ceremonies. By noon the entertainment had fairly begun and we were told
that it would last during the whole of the two following days. With the
exception of those who mourned by the corpse, every one seemed disposed to
drown the sense of the late bereavement in convivial indulgence. The
girls, decked out in their savage finery, danced; the old men chanted; the
warriors smoked and chatted; and the young and lusty, of both
sexes, feasted plentifully, and seemed to enjoy themselves as
pleasantly as they could have done had it been a wedding.
The islanders understand the art of embalming, and practise
it with such success that the bodies of their great chiefs are frequently
preserved for many years in the very houses where they died. I saw
three of these in my visit to the Bay of Tior. One was enveloped in
immense folds of tappa, with only the face exposed, and hung erect against
the side of the dwelling. The others were stretched out upon biers of
bamboo, in open, elevated temples, which seemed consecrated to their
memory. The heads of enemies killed in battle are invariably preserved
and hung up as trophies in the house of the conqueror. I am not
acquainted with the process which is in use, but believe that fumigation is
the principal agency employed. All the remains which I saw
presented the appearance of a ham after being suspended for some time in
a smoky chimney.
But to return from the dead to the living. The late
festival had drawn together, as I had every reason to believe, the
whole population of the vale, and consequently I was enabled to make some
estimate with regard to its numbers. I should imagine that there were
about two thousand inhabitants in Typee; and no number could have been better
adapted to the extent of the valley. The valley is some nine miles in
length, and may average one in breadth; the houses being distributed at wide
intervals throughout its whole extent, principally, however, towards
the head of the vale. There are no villages; the houses stand
here and there in the shadow of the groves, or are scattered along
the banks of the winding stream; their golden-hued bamboo sides
and gleaming white thatch forming a beautiful contrast to the perpetual
verdure in which they are embowered. There are no roads of any kind in
the valley. Nothing but a labyrinth of footpaths twisting and turning
among the thickets without end.
The penalty of the Fall presses very lightly upon the valley
of Typee; for, with the one solitary exception of striking a light, I
scarcely saw any piece of work performed there which caused the sweat to
stand upon a single brow. As for digging and delving for a livelihood,
the thing is altogether unknown. Nature has planted the bread-fruit and
the banana, and in her own good time she brings them to maturity, when the
idle savage stretches forth his hand, and satisfies his
appetite.
Ill-fated people! I shudder when I think of the change a
few years will produce in their paradisaical abode; and probably when the
most destructive vices, and the worst attendances on civilization, shall have
driven all peace and happiness from the valley, the magnanimous French will
proclaim to the world that the Marquesas Islands have been converted to
Christianity! and this the Catholic world will doubtless consider as a
glorious event. Heaven help the 'Isles of the Sea'!—The sympathy
which Christendom feels for them, has, alas! in too many
instances proved their bane.
How little do some of these poor islanders comprehend when
they look around them, that no inconsiderable part of their
disasters originate in certain tea-party excitements, under the
influence of which benevolent-looking gentlemen in white cravats
solicit alms, and old ladies in spectacles, and young ladies in
sober russet gowns, contribute sixpences towards the creation of a fund,
the object of which is to ameliorate the spiritual condition of the
Polynesians, but whose end has almost invariably been to accomplish their
temporal destruction!
Let the savages be civilized, but civilize them with
benefits, and not with evils; and let heathenism be destroyed, but not
by destroying the heathen. The Anglo-Saxon hive have
extirpated Paganism from the greater part of the North American
continent; but with it they have likewise extirpated the greater portion
of the Red race. Civilization is gradually sweeping from the
earth the lingering vestiges of Paganism, and at the same time
the shrinking forms of its unhappy worshippers.
Among the islands of Polynesia, no sooner are the
images overturned, the temples demolished, and the idolators
converted into NOMINAL Christians, that disease, vice, and premature
death make their appearance. The depopulated land is then
recruited from the rapacious, hordes of enlightened individuals who
settle themselves within its borders, and clamorously announce
the progress of the Truth. Neat villas, trim gardens, shaven
lawns, spires, and cupolas arise, while the poor savage soon finds himself
an interloper in the country of his fathers, and that too on the very site of
the hut where he was born. The spontaneous fruits of the earth, which
God in his wisdom had ordained for the support of the indolent natives,
remorselessly seized upon and appropriated by the stranger, are devoured
before the eyes of the starving inhabitants, or sent on board the numerous
vessels which now touch at their shores.
When the famished wretches are cut off in this manner from
their natural supplies, they are told by their benefactors to work
and earn their support by the sweat of their brows! But to no
fine gentleman born to hereditary opulence, does this manual labour come
more unkindly than to the luxurious Indian when thus robbed of the bounty of
heaven. Habituated to a life of indolence, he cannot and will not exert
himself; and want, disease, and vice, all evils of foreign growth, soon
terminate his miserable existence.
But what matters all this? Behold the glorious
result!—The abominations of Paganism have given way to the pure rites of
the Christian worship,—the ignorant savage has been supplanted by the
refined European! Look at Honolulu, the metropolis of the Sandwich
Islands!—A community of disinterested merchants, and devoted self-exiled
heralds of the Cross, located on the very spot that twenty years ago was
defiled by the presence of idolatry. What a subject for an eloquent
Bible-meeting orator! Nor has such an opportunity for a display of
missionary rhetoric been allowed to pass by unimproved!—But when
these philanthropists send us such glowing accounts of one half of their
labours, why does their modesty restrain them from publishing the other half
of the good they have wrought?—Not until I visited Honolulu was I aware of
the fact that the small remnant of the natives had been civilized into
draught-horses; and evangelized into beasts of burden. But so it
is. They have been literally broken into the traces, and are harnessed
to the vehicles of their spiritual instructors like so many dumb
brutes!
. . . . . . .
Lest the slightest misconception should arise from
anything thrown out in this chapter, or indeed in any other part of
the volume, let me here observe that against the cause of missions in, the
abstract no Christian can possibly be opposed: it is in truth a just and holy
cause. But if the great end proposed by it be spiritual, the agency
employed to accomplish that end is purely earthly; and, although the object
in view be the achievement of much good, that agency may nevertheless
be productive of evil. In short, missionary undertaking, however
it may blessed of heaven, is in itself but human; and subject,
like everything else, to errors and abuses. And have not errors
and abuses crept into the most sacred places, and may there not
be unworthy or incapable missionaries abroad, as well as ecclesiastics of
similar character at home? May not the unworthiness or incapacity of
those who assume apostolic functions upon the remote islands of the sea more
easily escape detection by the world at large than if it were displayed in
the heart of a city? An unwarranted confidence in the sanctity
of its apostles—a proneness to regard them as incapable of guile—and an
impatience of the least suspicion to their rectitude as men or Christians,
have ever been prevailing faults in the Church. Nor is this to be
wondered at: for subject as Christianity is to the assaults of unprincipled
foes, we are naturally disposed to regard everything like an exposure
of ecclesiastical misconduct as the offspring of malevolence
or irreligious feeling. Not even this last consideration,
however shall deter me from the honest expression of my
sentiments.
There is something apparently wrong in the practical
operations of the Sandwich Islands Mission. Those who from pure
religious motives contribute to the support of this enterprise should
take care to ascertain that their donations, flowing through many devious
channels, at last effect their legitimate object, the conversion of the
Hawaiians. I urge this not because I doubt the moral probity of those
who disburse the funds, but because I know that they are not rightly
applied. To read pathetic accounts of missionary hardships, and glowing
descriptions of conversion, and baptisms, taking place beneath palm-trees, is
one thing; and to go to the Sandwich Islands and see the missionaries
dwelling in picturesque and prettily furnished coral-rock villas, whilst
the miserable natives are committing all sorts of immorality around them,
is quite another.
In justice to the missionaries, however, I will willingly
admit, that where-ever evils may have resulted from their
collective mismanagement of the business of the mission, and from the
want of vital piety evinced by some of their number, still the
present deplorable condition of the Sandwich Islands is by no means wholly
chargeable against them. The demoralizing influence of a dissolute
foreign population, and the frequent visits of all descriptions of vessels,
have tended not a little to increase the evils alluded to. In a word,
here, as in every case where civilization has in any way been introduced
among those whom we call savages, she has scattered her vices, and withheld
her blessings.
As wise a man as Shakespeare has said, that the bearer of
evil tidings hath but a losing office; and so I suppose will it prove with
me, in communicating to the trusting friends of the Hawiian Mission what has
been disclosed in various portions of this narrative. I am persuaded,
however, that as these disclosures will by their very nature attract
attention, so they will lead to something which will not be without ultimate
benefit to the cause of Christianity in the Sandwich Islands.
I have but one more thing to add in connection with
this subject—those things which I have stated as facts will remain facts,
in spite of whatever the bigoted or incredulous may say or write against
them. My reflections, however, on those facts may not be free from
error. If such be the case, I claim no further indulgence than should
be conceded to every man whose object is to do good.
CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN
THE SOCIAL CONDITION AND GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE
TYPEES
I HAVE already mentioned that the influence exerted over
the people of the valley by their chiefs was mild in the extreme; and as
to any general rule or standard of conduct by which the commonality were
governed in their intercourse with each other, so far as my observation
extended, I should be almost tempted to say, that none existed on the island,
except, indeed, the mysterious 'Taboo' be considered as such. During
the time I lived among the Typees, no one was ever put upon his trial
for any offence against the public. To all appearance there were
no courts of law or equity. There was no municipal police for
the purpose of apprehending vagrants and disorderly characters.
In short, there were no legal provisions whatever for the well-being and
conservation of society, the enlightened end of civilized legislation.
And yet everything went on in the valley with a harmony and smoothness
unparalleled, I will venture to assert, in the most select, refined, and
pious associations of mortals in Christendom. How are we to explain
this enigma? These islanders were heathens! savages! ay,
cannibals! and how came they without the aid of established law, to
exhibit, in so eminent a degree, that social order which is the greatest
blessing and highest pride of the social state?
It may reasonably be inquired, how were these people
governed? how were their passions controlled in their
everyday transactions? It must have been by an inherent principle
of honesty and charity towards each other. They seemed to
be governed by that sort of tacit common-sense law which, say what they
will of the inborn lawlessness of the human race, has its precepts graven on
every breast. The grand principles of virtue and honour, however they
may be distorted by arbitrary codes, are the same all the world over: and
where these principles are concerned, the right or wrong of any action
appears the same to the uncultivated as to the enlightened mind. It is
to this indwelling, this universally diffused perception of what is
just and noble, that the integrity of the Marquesans in their intercourse
with each other, is to be attributed. In the darkest nights they slept
securely, with all their worldly wealth around them, in houses the doors of
which were never fastened. The disquieting ideas of theft or
assassination never disturbed them.
Each islander reposed beneath his own palmetto thatching, or
sat under his own bread-fruit trees, with none to molest or
alarm him. There was not a padlock in the valley, nor anything
that answered the purpose of one: still there was no community
of goods. This long spear, so elegantly carved, and highly polished,
belongs to Wormoonoo: it is far handsomer than the one which old Marheyo so
greatly prizes; it is the most valuable article belonging to its owner.
And yet I have seen it leaning against a cocoanut tree in the grove, and
there it was found when sought for. Here is a sperm-whale tooth, graven
all over with cunning devices: it is the property of Karluna; it is the
most precious of the damsel's ornaments. In her estimation its
price is far above rubies—and yet there hangs the dental jewel by
its cord of braided bark, in the girl's house, which is far back in the
valley; the door is left open, and all the inmates have gone off to bathe in
the stream.*
*The strict honesty which the inhabitants of nearly all
the Polynesian Islands manifest toward each other, is in striking contrast
with the thieving propensities some of them evince in their intercourse with
foreigners. It would almost seem that, according to their peculiar code
of morals, the pilfering of a hatchet or a wrought nail from a European, is
looked upon as a praiseworthy action. Or rather, it may be presumed,
that bearing in mind the wholesale forays made upon them by their
nautical visitors, they consider the property of the latter as a
fair object of reprisal. This consideration, while it serves
to reconcile an apparent contradiction in the moral character of
the islanders, should in some measure alter that low opinion of it which
the reader of South Sea voyages is too apt to form.
So much for the respect in which 'personal property' is held
in Typee; how secure an investment of 'real property' may be, I cannot
take upon me to say. Whether the land of the valley was the joint
property of its inhabitants, or whether it was parcelled out among a certain
number of landed proprietors who allowed everybody to 'squat' and 'poach' as
much as he or she pleased, I never could ascertain. At any rate, musty
parchments and title-deeds there were none on the island; and I am
half inclined to believe that its inhabitants hold their broad valleys in
fee simple from Nature herself; to have and to hold, so long as grass grows
and water runs; or until their French visitors, by a summary mode of
conveyancing, shall appropriate them to their own benefit and
behoof.
Yesterday I saw Kory-Kory hie him away, armed with a long
pole, with which, standing on the ground, he knocked down the fruit from
the topmost boughs of the trees, and brought them home in his basket of
cocoanut leaves. Today I see an islander, whom I know to reside in a
distant part of the valley, doing the self-same thing. On the sloping
bank of the stream are a number of banana-trees I have often seen a score or
two of young people making a merry foray on the great golden clusters, and
bearing them off, one after another, to different parts of the
vale, shouting and trampling as they went. No churlish old
curmudgeon could have been the owner of that grove of bread-fruit trees,
or of these gloriously yellow bunches of bananas.
From what I have said it will be perceived that there is a
vast difference between 'personal property' and 'real estate' in
the valley of Typee. Some individuals, of course, are more
wealthy than others. For example, the ridge-pole of Marheyo's
house bends under the weight of many a huge packet of tappa; his
long couch is laid with mats placed one upon the other seven deep.
Outside, Tinor has ranged along in her bamboo cupboard—or whatever the
place may be called—a goodly array of calabashes and wooden trenchers.
Now, the house just beyond the grove, and next to Marheyo's, occupied by
Ruaruga, is not quite so well furnished. There are only three
moderate-sized packages swinging overhead: there are only two layers of mats
beneath; and the calabashes and trenchers are not so numerous, nor
so tastefully stained and carved. But then, Ruaruga has a house—not
so pretty a one, to be sure—but just as commodious as Marheyo's; and, I
suppose, if he wished to vie with his neighbour's establishment, he could do
so with very little trouble. These, in short, constituted the chief
differences perceivable in the relative wealth of the people in
Typee.
Civilization does not engross all the virtues of humanity:
she has not even her full share of them. They flourish in
greater abundance and attain greater strength among many
barbarous people. The hospitality of the wild Arab, the courage of
the North American Indian, and the faithful friendship of some of
the Polynesian nations, far surpass anything of a similar kind among the
polished communities of Europe. If truth and justice, and the better
principles of our nature, cannot exist unless enforced by the statute-book,
how are we to account for the social condition of the Typees? So pure
and upright were they in all the relations of life, that entering their
valley, as I did, under the most erroneous impressions of their character, I
was soon led to exclaim in amazement: 'Are these the ferocious savages,
the blood-thirsty cannibals of whom I have heard such frightful tales!
They deal more kindly with each other, and are more humane than many who
study essays on virtue and benevolence, and who repeat every night that
beautiful prayer breathed first by the lips of the divine and gentle
Jesus.' I will frankly declare that after passing a few weeks in this
valley of the Marquesas, I formed a higher estimate of human nature than I
had ever before entertained. But alas! since then I have been
one of the crew of a man-of-war, and the pent-up wickedness of
five hundred men has nearly overturned all my previous theories.
There was one admirable trait in the general character of
the Typees which, more than anything else, secured my admiration: it was
the unanimity of feeling they displayed on every occasion. With them
there hardly appeared to be any difference of opinion upon any subject
whatever. They all thought and acted alike. I do not conceive
that they could support a debating society for a single night: there would be
nothing to dispute about; and were they to call a convention to take into
consideration the state of the tribe, its session would be a remarkably short
one. They showed this spirit of unanimity in every action of
life; everything was done in concert and good fellowship. I will
give an instance of this fraternal feeling.
One day, in returning with Kory-Kory from my accustomed visit
to the Ti, we passed by a little opening in the grove; on one side of
which, my attendant informed me, was that afternoon to be built a dwelling of
bamboo. At least a hundred of the natives were bringing materials to
the ground, some carrying in their hands one or two of the canes which were
to form the sides, others slender rods of the habiscus, strung with palmetto
leaves, for the roof. Every one contributed something to the work;
and by the united, but easy, and even indolent, labours of all, the entire
work was completed before sunset. The islanders, while employed in
erecting this tenement, reminded me of a colony of beavers at work. To
be sure, they were hardly as silent and demure as those wonderful creatures,
nor were they by any means as diligent. To tell the truth they were
somewhat inclined to be lazy, but a perfect tumult of hilarity prevailed; and
they worked together so unitedly, and seemed actuated by such an instinct
of friendliness, that it was truly beautiful to behold.
Not a single female took part in this employment: and if
the degree of consideration in which the ever-adorable sex is held by the
men be—as the philosophers affirm—a just criterion of the degree of
refinement among a people, then I may truly pronounce the Typees to be as
polished a community as ever the sun shone upon. The religious
restrictions of the taboo alone excepted, the women of the valley were
allowed every possible indulgence. Nowhere are the ladies more
assiduously courted; nowhere are they better appreciated as the contributors
to our highest enjoyments; and nowhere are they more sensible of their
power. Far different from their condition among many rude nations,
where the women are made to perform all the work while their ungallant lords
and masters lie buried in sloth, the gentle sex in the valley of Typee
were exempt from toil, if toil it might be called that, even in the tropical
climate, never distilled one drop of perspiration. Their light
household occupations, together with the manufacture of tappa, the platting
of mats, and the polishing of drinking-vessels, were the only employments
pertaining to the women. And even these resembled those pleasant
avocations which fill up the elegant morning leisure of our fashionable
ladies at home. But in these occupations, slight and agreeable though
they were, the giddy young girls very seldom engaged. Indeed
these wilful care-killing damsels were averse to all useful
employment.
Like so many spoiled beauties, they ranged through
the groves—bathed in the stream—danced—flirted—played all manner of
mischievous pranks, and passed their days in one merry round of thoughtless
happiness.
During my whole stay on the island I never witnessed a
single quarrel, nor anything that in the slightest degree approached even
to a dispute. The natives appeared to form one household, whose members
were bound together by the ties of strong affection. The love of
kindred I did not so much perceive, for it seemed blended in the general
love; and where all were treated as brothers and sisters, it was hard to tell
who were actually related to each other by blood.
Let it not be supposed that I have overdrawn this
picture. I have not done so. Nor let it be urged, that the
hostility of this tribe to foreigners, and the hereditary feuds they carry
on against their fellow-islanders beyond the mountains, are facts which
contradict me. Not so; these apparent discrepancies are easily
reconciled. By many a legendary tale of violence and wrong, as well as
by events which have passed before their eyes, these people have been taught
to look upon white men with abhorrence. The cruel invasion of their
country by Porter has alone furnished them with ample provocation; and I can
sympathize in the spirit which prompts the Typee warrior to guard all
the passes to his valley with the point of his levelled spear,
and, standing upon the beach, with his back turned upon his green home, to
hold at bay the intruding European.
As to the origin of the enmity of this particular clan
towards the neighbouring tribes, I cannot so confidently speak. I
will not say that their foes are the aggressors, nor will I endeavour to
palliate their conduct. But surely, if our evil passions must find
vent, it is far better to expend them on strangers and aliens, than in the
bosom of the community in which we dwell. In many polished countries
civil contentions, as well as domestic enmities, are prevalent, and the same
time that the most atrocious foreign wars are waged. How much less
guilty, then, are our islanders, who of these three sins are only
chargeable with one, and that the least criminal!
The reader will ere long have reason to suspect that the
Typees are not free from the guilt of cannibalism; and he will
then, perhaps, charge me with admiring a people against whom so odious a
crime is chargeable. But this only enormity in their character is not
half so horrible as it is usually described. According to the popular
fictions, the crews of vessels, shipwrecked on some barbarous coast, are
eaten alive like so many dainty joints by the uncivil inhabitants; and
unfortunate voyagers are lured into smiling and treacherous bays; knocked on
the head with outlandish war-clubs; and served up without any prelimary
dressing. In truth, so horrific and improbable are these accounts, that
many sensible and well-informed people will not believe that any cannibals
exist; and place every book of voyages which purports to give any account of
them, on the same shelf with Blue Beard and Jack the Giant-Killer.
While others, implicitly crediting the most extravagant fictions, firmly
believe that there are people in the world with tastes so depraved that they
would infinitely prefer a single mouthful of material humanity to a good
dinner of roast beef and plum pudding. But here, Truth, who loves to be
centrally located, is again found between the two extremes; for cannibalism
to a certain moderate extent is practised among several of the primitive
tribes in the Pacific, but it is upon the bodies of slain enemies alone, and
horrible and fearful as the custom is, immeasurably as it is to
be abhorred and condemned, still I assert that those who indulge in it are
in other respects humane and virtuous.
CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT
FISHING PARTIES—MODE OF DISTRIBUTING THE
FISH—MIDNIGHT BANQUET—TIME-KEEPING TAPERS—UNCEREMONIOUS STYLE OF EATING
THE FISH
THERE was no instance in which the social and kindly
dispositions of the Typees were more forcibly evinced than in the manner
the conducted their great fishing parties. Four times during my
stay in the valley the young men assembled near the full of the moon, and
went together on these excursions. As they were generally absent about
forty-eight hours, I was led to believe that they went out towards the open
sea, some distance from the bay. The Polynesians seldom use a hook and
line, almost always employing large well-made nets, most ingeniously
fabricated from the twisted fibres of a certain bark. I examined
several of them which had been spread to dry upon the beach at
Nukuheva. They resemble very much our own seines, and I should think
they were nearly as durable.
All the South Sea Islanders are passionately fond of fish;
but none of them can be more so than the inhabitants of Typee.
I could not comprehend, therefore, why they so seldom sought it in their
waters, for it was only at stated times that the fishing parties were formed,
and these occasions were always looked forward to with no small degree of
interest.
During their absence the whole population of the place were in
a ferment, and nothing was talked of but 'pehee, pehee'
(fish, fish). Towards the time when they were expected to return
the vocal telegraph was put into operation—the inhabitants, who
were scattered throughout the length of the valley, leaped upon rocks and
into trees, shouting with delight at the thoughts of the anticipated
treat. As soon as the approach of the party was announced, there was a
general rush of the men towards the beach; some of them remaining, however,
about the Ti in order to get matters in readiness for the reception of the
fish, which were brought to the Taboo Groves in immense packages of leaves,
each one of them being suspended from a pole carried on the shoulders of
two men.
I was present at the Ti on one of these occasions, and the
sight was most interesting. After all the packages had arrived,
they were laid in a row under the verandah of the building and
opened.
The fish were all quite small, generally about the size of
a herring, and of every variety. About one-eighth of the whole being
reserved for the use of the Ti itself, the remainder was divided into
numerous smaller packages, which were immediately dispatched in every
direction to the remotest parts of the valley. Arrived at their
destination, these were in turn portioned out, and equally distributed among
the various houses of each particular district. The fish were under a
strict Taboo, until the distribution was completed, which seemed to be
effected in the most impartial manner. By the operation of this
system every man, woman, and child in the vale, were at one and the
same time partaking of this favourite article of food.
Once I remember the party arrived at midnight; but
the unseasonableness of the tour did not repress the impatience of the
islanders. The carriers dispatched from the Ti were to be seen hurrying
in all directions through the deep groves; each individual preceded by a boy
bearing a flaming torch of dried cocoanut boughs, which from time to time was
replenished from the materials scattered along the path. The wild glare
of these enormous flambeaux, lighting up with a startling brilliancy
the innermost recesses of the vale, and seen moving rapidly along beneath
the canopy of leaves, the savage shout of the excited messengers sounding the
news of their approach, which was answered on all sides, and the strange
appearance of their naked bodies, seen against the gloomy background,
produced altogether an effect upon my mind that I shall long
remember.
It was on this same occasion that Kory-Kory awakened me at
the dead hour of night, and in a sort of transport communicated
the intelligence contained in the words 'pehee perni' (fish come).
As I happened to have been in a remarkably sound and refreshing slumber,
I could not imagine why the information had not been deferred until morning,
indeed, I felt very much inclined to fly into a passion and box my valet's
ears; but on second thoughts I got quietly up, and on going outside the house
was not a little interested by the moving illumination which I
beheld.
When old Marheyo received his share of the spoils,
immediate preparations were made for a midnight banquet; calabashes
of poee-poee were filled to the brim; green bread-fruit were roasted; and
a huge cake of 'amar' was cut up with a sliver of bamboo and laid out on an
immense banana-leaf.
At this supper we were lighted by several of the native
tapers, held in the hands of young girls. These tapers are
most ingeniously made. There is a nut abounding in the valley,
called by the Typees 'armor', closely resembling our
common horse-chestnut. The shell is broken, and the contents
extracted whole. Any number of these are strung at pleasure upon the
long elastic fibre that traverses the branches of the cocoanut tree.
Some of these tapers are eight or ten feet in length; but being perfectly
flexible, one end is held in a coil, while the other is lighted. The
nut burns with a fitful bluish flame, and the oil that it contains is
exhausted in about ten minutes. As one burns down, the next becomes
ignited, and the ashes of the former are knocked into a cocoanut shell kept
for the purpose. This primitive candle requires continual attention,
and must be constantly held in the hand. The person so employed marks
the lapse of time by the number of nuts consumed, which is easily learned
by counting the bits of tappa distributed at regular intervals along the
string.
I grieve to state so distressing a fact, but the inhabitants
of Typee were in the habit of devouring fish much in the same way that a
civilized being would eat a radish, and without any more previous
preparation. They eat it raw; scales, bones, gills, and all the
inside. The fish is held by the tail, and the head being introduced
into the mouth, the animal disappears with a rapidity that would at first
nearly lead one to imagine it had been launched bodily down the
throat.
Raw fish! Shall I ever forget my sensations when I first
saw my island beauty devour one. Oh, heavens! Fayaway, how could
you ever have contracted so vile a habit? However, after the
first shock had subsided, the custom grew less odious in my eyes, and
I soon accustomed myself to the sight. Let no one imagine, however,
that the lovely Fayaway was in the habit of swallowing great vulgar-looking
fishes: oh, no; with her beautiful small hand she would clasp a delicate,
little, golden-hued love of a fish and eat it as elegantly and as innocently
as though it were a Naples biscuit. But alas! it was after all a
raw fish; and all I can say is, that Fayaway ate it in a more ladylike
manner than any other girl of the valley.
When at Rome do as the Romans do, I held to be so good a
proverb, that being in Typee I made a point of doing as the Typees did.
Thus I ate poee-poee as they did; I walked about in a garb striking for
its simplicity; and I reposed on a community of couches; besides doing many
other things in conformity with their peculiar habits; but the farthest I
ever went in the way of conformity, was on several occasions to regale myself
with raw fish. These being remarkably tender, and quite small,
the undertaking was not so disagreeable in the main, and after a
few trials I positively began to relish them; however, I subjected them to
a slight operation with a knife previously to making my repast.
CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE
NATURAL HISTORY OF THE VALLEY—GOLDEN LIZARDS—TAMENESS OF
THE BIRDS—MOSQUITOES—FLIES—DOGS—A SOLITARY CAT—THE
CLIMATE—THE COCOANUT TREE—SINGULAR MODES OF CLIMBING IT—AN AGILE
YOUNG CHIEF—FEARLESSNESS OF THE CHILDREN—TOO-TOO AND THE
COCOANUT TREE—THE BIRDS OF THE VALLEY
I THINK I must enlighten the reader a little about the
natural history of the valley.
Whence, in the name of Count Buffon and Baron Cuvier, came
those dogs that I saw in Typee? Dogs!—Big hairless rats rather;
all with smooth, shining speckled hides—fat sides, and very disagreeable
faces. Whence could they have come? That they were not the
indigenous production of the region, I am firmly convinced. Indeed they
seemed aware of their being interlopers, looking fairly ashamed, and always
trying to hide themselves in some dark corner. It was plain enough they
did not feel at home in the vale—that they wished themselves well out of it,
and back to the ugly country from which they must have come.
Scurvy curs! they were my abhorrence; I should have
liked nothing better than to have been the death of every one of them. In
fact, on one occasion, I intimated the propriety of a canine crusade to
Mehevi; but the benevolent king would not consent to it. He heard me
very patiently; but when I had finished, shook his head, and told me in
confidence that they were 'taboo'.
As for the animal that made the fortune of the
ex-lord-mayor Whittington, I shall never forget the day that I was lying in
the house about noon, everybody else being fast asleep; and happening to
raise my eyes, met those of a big black spectral cat, which sat erect in the
doorway, looking at me with its frightful goggling green orbs, like one of
those monstrous imps that torment some of Teniers' saints! I am one of
those unfortunate persons to whom the sight of these animals are, at any time
an insufferable annoyance.
Thus constitutionally averse to cats in general, the
unexpected apparition of this one in particular utterly confounded me.
When I had a little recovered from the fascination of its glance,
I started up; the cat fled, and emboldened by this, I rushed out of the
house in pursuit; but it had disappeared. It was the only time I ever
saw one in the valley, and how it got there I cannot imagine. It is
just possible that it might have escaped from one of the ships at
Nukuheva. It was in vain to seek information on the subject from the
natives, since none of them had seen the animal, the appearance of which
remains a mystery to me to this day.
Among the few animals which are to be met with in Typee,
there was none which I looked upon with more interest than a
beautiful golden-hued species of lizard. It measured perhaps five
inches from head to tail, and was most gracefully proportioned.
Numbers of those creatures were to be seen basking in the sunshine
upon the thatching of the houses, and multitudes at all hours of the day
showed their glittering sides as they ran frolicking between the spears of
grass or raced in troops up and down the tall shafts of the cocoanut
trees. But the remarkable beauty of these little animals and their
lively ways were not their only claims upon my admiration. They were
perfectly tame and insensible to fear. Frequently, after seating myself
upon the ground in some shady place during the heat of the day, I would be
completely overrun with them. If I brushed one off my arm, it would
leap perhaps into my hair: when I tried to frighten it away by
gently pinching its leg, it would turn for protection to the very
hand that attacked it.
The birds are also remarkably tame. If you happened to
see one perched upon a branch within reach of your arm, and
advanced towards it, it did not fly away immediately, but waited
quietly looking at you, until you could almost touch it, and then
took wing slowly, less alarmed at your presence, it would seem,
than desirous of removing itself from your path. Had salt been
less scarce in the valley than it was, this was the very place to
have gone birding with it. I remember that once, on an
uninhabited island of the Gallipagos, a bird alighted on my outstretched
arm, while its mate chirped from an adjoining tree. Its tameness,
far from shocking me, as a similar occurrence did Selkirk, imparted to me
the most exquisite thrill of delight I ever experienced, and with somewhat of
the same pleasure did I afterwards behold the birds and lizards of the valley
show their confidence in the kindliness of man.
Among the numerous afflictions which the Europeans have
entailed upon some of the natives of the South Seas, is the
accidental introduction among them of that enemy of all repose and
ruffler of even tempers—the Mosquito. At the Sandwich Islands and
at two or three of the Society group, there are now thriving colonies of
these insects, who promise ere long to supplant altogether the aboriginal
sand-flies. They sting, buzz, and torment, from one end of the year to
the other, and by incessantly exasperating the natives materially obstruct
the benevolent labours of the missionaries.
From this grievous visitation, however the Typees are as
yet wholly exempt; but its place is unfortunately in some degree supplied
by the occasional presence of a minute species of fly, which, without
stinging, is nevertheless productive of no little annoyance. The
tameness of the birds and lizards is as nothing when compared to the fearless
confidence of this insect. He will perch upon one of your eye-lashes,
and go to roost there if you do not disturb him, or force his way through
your hair, or along the cavity of the nostril, till you almost fancy he is
resolved to explore the very brain itself. On one occasion I was
so inconsiderate as to yawn while a number of them were hovering around
me. I never repeated the act. Some half-dozen darted into the
open apartment, and began walking about its ceiling; the sensation was
dreadful. I involuntarily closed my mouth, and the poor creatures being
enveloped in inner darkness, must in their consternation have stumbled over
my palate, and been precipitated into the gulf beneath. At any rate,
though I afterwards charitably held my mouth open for at least five minutes,
with a view of affording egress to the stragglers, none of them
ever availed themselves of the opportunity.
There are no wild animals of any kind on the island unless it
be decided that the natives themselves are such. The mountains
and the interior present to the eye nothing but silent solitudes, unbroken
by the roar of beasts of prey, and enlivened by few tokens even of minute
animated existence. There are no venomous reptiles, and no snakes of
any description to be found in any of the valleys.
In a company of Marquesan natives the weather affords no topic
of conversation. It can hardly be said to have any vicissitudes.
The rainy season, it is true, brings frequent showers, but they are
intermitting and refreshing. When an islander bound on some expedition
rises from his couch in the morning, he is never solicitous to peep out and
see how the sky looks, or ascertain from what quarter the wind blows.
He is always sure of a 'fine day', and the promise of a few genial showers he
hails with pleasure. There is never any of that 'remarkable weather' on
the islands which from time immemorial has been experienced in America,
and still continues to call forth the wondering conversational exclamations
of its elderly citizens. Nor do there even occur any of those eccentric
meteorological changes which elsewhere surprise us. In the valley of
Typee ice-creams would never be rendered less acceptable by sudden frosts,
nor would picnic parties be deferred on account of
inauspicious snowstorms: for there day follows day in one unvarying round
of summer and sunshine, and the whole year is one long tropical month of
June just melting into July.
It is this genial climate which causes the cocoanuts to
flourish as they do. This invaluable fruit, brought to perfection by
the rich soil of the Marquesas, and home aloft on a stately column more
than a hundred feet from the ground, would seem at first almost inaccessible
to the simple natives. Indeed the slender, smooth, and soaring shaft,
without a single limb or protuberance of any kind to assist one in mounting
it, presents an obstacle only to be overcome by the surprising agility and
ingenuity of the islanders. It might be supposed that their indolence
would lead them patiently to await the period when the ripened
nuts, slowly parting from their stems, fall one by one to the ground.
This certainly would be the case, were it not that the young fruit,
encased in a soft green husk, with the incipient meat adhering in a
jelly-like pellicle to its sides, and containing a bumper of the most
delicious nectar, is what they chiefly prize. They have at least
twenty different terms to express as many progressive stages in the growth of
the nut. Many of them reject the fruit altogether except at a
particular period of its growth, which, incredible as it may appear, they
seemed to me to be able to ascertain within an hour or two. Others are
still more capricious in their tastes; and after gathering together a
heap of the nuts of all ages, and ingeniously tapping them, will first sip
from one and then from another, as fastidiously as some delicate wine-bibber
experimenting glass in hand among his dusty demi-johns of different
vintages.
Some of the young men, with more flexible frames than
their comrades, and perhaps with more courageous souls, had a way
of walking up the trunk of the cocoanut trees which to me seemed little
less than miraculous; and when looking at them in the act, I experienced that
curious perplexity a child feels when he beholds a fly moving feet uppermost
along a ceiling.
I will endeavour to describe the way in which Narnee, a
noble young chief, sometimes performed this feat for my
peculiar gratification; but his preliminary performances must also
be recorded. Upon my signifying my desire that he should pluck
me the young fruit of some particular tree, the handsome savage, throwing
himself into a sudden attitude of surprise, feigns astonishment at the
apparent absurdity of the request. Maintaining this position for a
moment, the strange emotions depicted on his countenance soften down into one
of humorous resignation to my will, and then looking wistfully up to
the tufted top of the tree, he stands on tip-toe, straining his neck and
elevating his arm, as though endeavouring to reach the fruit from the ground
where he stands. As if defeated in this childish attempt, he now sinks
to the earth despondingly, beating his breast in well-acted despair; and
then, starting to his feet all at once, and throwing back his head, raises
both hands, like a school-boy about to catch a falling ball. After
continuing this for a moment or two, as if in expectation that the fruit
was going to be tossed down to him by some good spirit in the tree-top, he
turns wildly round in another fit of despair, and scampers off to the
distance of thirty or forty yards. Here he remains awhile, eyeing the
tree, the very picture of misery; but the next moment, receiving, as it were,
a flash of inspiration, he rushes again towards it, and clasping both arms
about the trunk, with one elevated a little above the other, he presses
the soles of his feet close together against the tree, extending his legs
from it until they are nearly horizontal, and his body becomes doubled into
an arch; then, hand over hand and foot over foot, he rises from the earth
with steady rapidity, and almost before you are aware of it, has gained the
cradled and embowered nest of nuts, and with boisterous glee flings the fruit
to the ground.
This mode of walking the tree is only practicable where the
trunk declines considerably from the perpendicular. This, however,
is almost always the case; some of the perfectly straight shafts of the
trees leaning at an angle of thirty degrees.
The less active among the men, and many of the children of
the valley have another method of climbing. They take a broad
and stout piece of bark, and secure each end of it to their ankles, so
that when the feet thus confined are extended apart, a space of little more
than twelve inches is left between them. This contrivance greatly
facilitates the act of climbing. The band pressed against the tree, and
closely embracing it, yields a pretty firm support; while with the arms
clasped about the trunk, and at regular intervals sustaining the body, the
feet are drawn up nearly a yard at a time, and a corresponding elevation of
the hands immediately succeeds. In this way I have seen
little children, scarcely five years of age, fearlessly climbing
the slender pole of a young cocoanut tree, and while hanging perhaps fifty
feet from the ground, receiving the plaudits of their parents beneath, who
clapped their hands, and encouraged them to mount still higher.
What, thought I, on first witnessing one of these
exhibitions, would the nervous mothers of America and England say to a
similar display of hardihood in any of their children? The
Lacedemonian nation might have approved of it, but most modern dames
would have gone into hysterics at the sight.
At the top of the cocoanut tree the numerous branches,
radiating on all sides from a common centre, form a sort of green
and waving basket, between the leaflets of which you just discern the nuts
thickly clustering together, and on the loftier trees looking no bigger from
the ground than bunches of grapes. I remember one adventurous little
fellow—Too-Too was the rascal's name—who had built himself a sort of aerial
baby-house in the picturesque tuft of a tree adjoining Marheyo's
habitation. He used to spend hours there,—rustling among the branches,
and shouting with delight every time the strong gusts of wind rushing down
from the mountain side, swayed to and fro the tall and flexible column on
which he was perched. Whenever I heard Too-Too's musical voice sounding
strangely to the ear from so great a height, and beheld him peeping down upon
me from out his leafy covert, he always recalled to my mind Dibdin's
lines—
'There's a sweet little cherub that sits up
aloft, To look out for the life of poor
Jack.'
Birds—bright and beautiful birds—fly over the valley of
Typee. You see them perched aloft among the immovable boughs of
the majestic bread-fruit trees, or gently swaying on the elastic branches
of the Omoo; skimming over the palmetto thatching of the bamboo huts; passing
like spirits on the wing through the shadows of the grove, and sometimes
descending into the bosom of the valley in gleaming flights from the
mountains. Their plumage is purple and azure, crimson and white, black
and gold; with bills of every tint: bright bloody red, jet black, and ivory
white, and their eyes are bright and sparkling; they go sailing through
the air in starry throngs; but, alas! the spell of dumbness is
upon them all—there is not a single warbler in the valley!
I know not why it was, but the sight of these birds,
generally the ministers of gladness, always oppressed me with
melancholy. As in their dumb beauty they hovered by me whilst I was
walking, or looked down upon me with steady curious eyes from out
the foliage, I was almost inclined to fancy that they knew they
were gazing upon a stranger, and that they commiserated his
fate.
CHAPTER THIRTY
A PROFESSOR OF THE FINE ARTS—HIS PERSECUTIONS—SOMETHING
ABOUT TATTOOING AND TABOOING—TWO ANECDOTES IN ILLUSTRATION OF
THE LATTER—A FEW THOUGHTS ON THE TYPEE DIALECT
IN one of my strolls with Kory-Kory, in passing along the
border of a thick growth of bushes, my attention was arrested by
a singular noise. On entering the thicket I witnessed for the first
time the operation of tattooing as performed by these islanders.
I beheld a man extended flat upon his back on the ground,
and, despite the forced composure of his countenance, it was evident that
he was suffering agony. His tormentor bent over him, working away for
all the world like a stone-cutter with mallet and chisel. In one hand
he held a short slender stick, pointed with a shark's tooth, on the upright
end of which he tapped with a small hammer-like piece of wood, thus
puncturing the skin, and charging it with the colouring matter in which the
instrument was dipped. A cocoanut shell containing this fluid was
placed upon the ground. It is prepared by mixing with a vegetable juice
the ashes of the 'armor', or candle-nut, always preserved for
the purpose. Beside the savage, and spread out upon a piece
of soiled tappa, were a great number of curious black-looking
little implements of bone and wood, used in the various divisions of
his art. A few terminated in a single fine point, and, like
very delicate pencils, were employed in giving the finishing touches, or
in operating upon the more sensitive portions of the body, as was the case in
the present instance. Others presented several points distributed in a
line, somewhat resembling the teeth of a saw. These were employed in
the coarser parts of the work, and particularly in pricking in straight
marks. Some presented their points disposed in small figures, and being
placed upon the body, were, by a single blow of the hammer, made to leave
their indelible impression. I observed a few the handles of which
were mysteriously curved, as if intended to be introduced into the orifice
of the ear, with a view perhaps of beating the tattoo upon the
tympanum. Altogether the sight of these strange instruments recalled to
mind that display of cruel-looking mother-of-pearl-handled things which one
sees in their velvet-lined cases at the elbow of a dentist.
The artist was not at this time engaged on an original
sketch, his subject being a venerable savage, whose tattooing had
become somewhat faded with age and needed a few repairs, and
accordingly he was merely employed in touching up the works of some of
the old masters of the Typee school, as delineated upon the human canvas
before him. The parts operated upon were the eyelids, where a
longitudinal streak, like the one which adorned Kory-Kory, crossed the
countenance of the victim.
In spite of all the efforts of the poor old man,
sundry twitchings and screwings of the muscles of the face denoted
the exquisite sensibility of these shutters to the windows of his soul,
which he was now having repainted. But the artist, with a heart as
callous as that of an army surgeon, continued his performance, enlivening his
labours with a wild chant, tapping away the while as merrily as a
woodpecker.
So deeply engaged was he in his work, that he had not
observed our approach, until, after having, enjoyed an unmolested view
of the operation, I chose to attract his attention. As soon as
he perceived me, supposing that I sought him in his professional capacity,
he seized hold of me in a paroxysm of delight, and was an eagerness to begin
the work. When, however, I gave him to understand that he had
altogether mistaken my views, nothing could exceed his grief and
disappointment. But recovering from this, he seemed determined not to
credit my assertion, and grasping his implements, he flourished them about in
fearful vicinity to my face, going through an imaginary performance of his
art, and every moment bursting into some admiring exclamation at the beauty
of his designs.
Horrified at the bare thought of being rendered hideous for
life if the wretch were to execute his purpose upon me, I struggled to get
away from him, while Kory-Kory, turning traitor, stood by, and besought me to
comply with the outrageous request. On my reiterated refusals the
excited artist got half beside himself, and was overwhelmed with sorrow at
losing so noble an opportunity of distinguishing himself in his
profession.
The idea of engrafting his tattooing upon my white skin
filled him with all a painter's enthusiasm; again and again he gazed into
my countenance, and every fresh glimpse seemed to add to the vehemence of his
ambition. Not knowing to what extremities he might proceed, and
shuddering at the ruin he might inflict upon my figure-head, I now
endeavoured to draw off his attention from it, and holding out my arm in a
fit of desperation, signed to him to commence operations. But he
rejected the compromise indignantly, and still continued his attack on my
face, as though nothing short of that would satisfy him. When his
forefinger swept across my features, in laying out the borders of
those parallel bands which were to encircle my countenance, the
flesh fairly crawled upon my bones. At last, half wild with terror
and indignation, I succeeded in breaking away from the three savages, and
fled towards old Marheyo's house, pursued by the indomitable artist, who ran
after me, implements in hand. Kory-Kory, however, at last interfered
and drew him off from the chase.
This incident opened my eyes to a new danger; and I now
felt convinced that in some luckless hour I should be disfigured in such a
manner as never more to have the FACE to return to my countrymen, even should
an opportunity offer.
These apprehensions were greatly increased by the desire
which King Mehevi and several of the inferior chiefs now manifested that I
should be tattooed. The pleasure of the king was first signified to me
some three days after my casual encounter with Karky the artist.
Heavens! what imprecations I showered upon that Karky. Doubtless
he had plotted a conspiracy against me and my countenance, and would never
rest until his diabolical purpose was accomplished. Several times I met
him in various parts of the valley, and, invariably, whenever he descried me,
he came running after me with his mallet and chisel, flourishing
them about my face as if he longed to begin. What an object he
would have made of me!
When the king first expressed his wish to me, I made known to
him my utter abhorrence of the measure, and worked myself into such
a state of excitement, that he absolutely stared at me in amazement.
It evidently surpassed his majesty's comprehension how any sober-minded and
sensible individual could entertain the least possible objection to so
beautifying an operation.
Soon afterwards he repeated his suggestion, and meeting with
a little repulse, showed some symptoms of displeasure at
my obduracy. On his a third time renewing his request, I
plainly perceived that something must be done, or my visage was ruined for
ever; I therefore screwed up my courage to the sticking point, and declared
my willingness to have both arms tattooed from just above the wrist to the
shoulder. His majesty was greatly pleased at the proposition, and I was
congratulating myself with having thus compromised the matter, when he
intimated that as a thing of course my face was first to undergo
the operation. I was fairly driven to despair; nothing but the
utter ruin of my 'face divine', as the poets call it, would, I perceived,
satisfy the inexorable Mehevi and his chiefs, or rather, that infernal Karky,
for he was at the bottom of it all.
The only consolation afforded me was a choice of patterns: I
was at perfect liberty to have my face spanned by three horizontal bars,
after the fashion of my serving-man's; or to have as many oblique stripes
slanting across it; or if, like a true courtier, I chose to model my style on
that of royalty, I might wear a sort of freemason badge upon my countenance
in the shape of a mystic triangle. However, I would have none of these,
though the king most earnestly impressed upon my mind that my choice was
wholly unrestricted. At last, seeing my unconquerable repugnance,
he ceased to importune me.
But not so some other of the savages. Hardly a day
passed but I was subjected to their annoying requests, until at last
my existence became a burden to me; the pleasures I had previously enjoyed
no longer afforded me delight, and all my former desire to escape from the
valley now revived with additional force.
A fact which I soon afterwards learned augmented my
apprehension. The whole system of tattooing was, I found, connected with
their religion; and it was evident, therefore, that they were resolved to
make a convert of me.
In the decoration of the chiefs it seems to be necessary
to exercise the most elaborate pencilling; while some of the inferior
natives looked as if they had been daubed over indiscriminately with a
house-painter's brush. I remember one fellow who prided himself hugely
upon a great oblong patch, placed high upon his back, and who always reminded
me of a man with a blister of Spanish flies, stuck between his
shoulders. Another whom I frequently met had the hollow of his eyes
tattooed in two regular squares and his visual organs being
remarkably brilliant, they gleamed forth from out this setting like a
couple of diamonds inserted in ebony.
Although convinced that tattooing was a religious
observance, still the nature of the connection between it and
the superstitious idolatry of the people was a point upon which I could
never obtain any information. Like the still more important system of
the 'Taboo', it always appeared inexplicable to me.
There is a marked similarity, almost an identity, between
the religious institutions of most of the Polynesian islands, and in all
exists the mysterious 'Taboo', restricted in its uses to a greater or less
extent. So strange and complex in its arrangements is this remarkable
system, that I have in several cases met with individuals who, after residing
for years among the islands in the Pacific, and acquiring a
considerable knowledge of the language, have nevertheless been
altogether unable to give any satisfactory account of its operations.
Situated as I was in the Typee valley, I perceived every hour the effects
of this all-controlling power, without in the least comprehending it.
Those effects were, indeed, wide-spread and universal, pervading the most
important as well as the minutest transactions of life. The savage, in
short, lives in the continual observance of its dictates, which guide and
control every action of his being.
For several days after entering the valley I had been saluted
at least fifty times in the twenty-four hours with the talismanic word
'Taboo' shrieked in my ears, at some gross violation of its provisions, of
which I had unconsciously been guilty. The day after our arrival I
happened to hand some tobacco to Toby over the head of a native who sat
between us. He started up, as if stung by an adder; while the whole
company, manifesting an equal degree of horror, simultaneously screamed out
'Taboo!' I never again perpetrated a similar piece of ill-manners,
which, indeed, was forbidden by the canons of good breeding, as well as by
the mandates of the taboo. But it was not always so easy to
perceive wherein you had contravened the spirit of this institution.
I was many times called to order, if I may use the phrase, when I could
not for the life of me conjecture what particular offence I had
committed.
One day I was strolling through a secluded portion of the
valley, and hearing the musical sound of the cloth-mallet at a
little distance, I turned down a path that conducted me in a few
moments to a house where there were some half-dozen girls employed
in making tappa. This was an operation I had frequently
witnessed, and had handled the bark in all the various stages of
its preparation. On the present occasion the females were
intent upon their occupation, and after looking up and talking gaily to me
for a few moments, they resumed their employment. I regarded them for a
while in silence, and then carelessly picking up a handful of the material
that lay around, proceeded unconsciously to pick it apart. While thus
engaged, I was suddenly startled by a scream, like that of a whole
boarding-school of young ladies just on the point of going into
hysterics. Leaping up with the idea of seeing a score of Happar
warriors about to perform anew the Sabine atrocity, I found myself confronted
by the company of girls, who, having dropped their work, stood before me
with starting eyes, swelling bosoms, and fingers pointed in horror towards
me.
Thinking that some venomous reptile must be concealed in the
bark which I held in my hand, I began cautiously to separate and examine
it. Whilst I did so the horrified girls re-doubled their shrieks.
Their wild cries and frightened motions actually alarmed me, and throwing
down the tappa, I was about to rush from the house, when in the same instant
their clamours ceased, and one of them, seizing me by the arm, pointed to the
broken fibres that had just fallen from my grasp, and screamed in my ears
the fatal word Taboo!
I subsequently found out that the fabric they were engaged
in making was of a peculiar kind, destined to be worn on the heads of the
females, and through every stage of its manufacture was guarded by a rigorous
taboo, which interdicted the whole masculine gender from even so much as
touching it.
Frequently in walking through the groves I observed
bread-fruit and cocoanut trees, with a wreath of leaves twined in a
peculiar fashion about their trunks. This was the mark of the
taboo. The trees themselves, their fruit, and even the shadows they
cast upon the ground, were consecrated by its presence. In the
same way a pipe, which the king had bestowed upon me, was rendered sacred
in the eyes of the natives, none of whom could I ever prevail upon to smoke
from it. The bowl was encircled by a woven band of grass, somewhat
resembling those Turks' heads occasionally worked in the handles of our
whip-stalks.
A similar badge was once braided about my wrist by the royal
hand of Mehevi himself, who, as soon as he had concluded the operation,
pronounced me 'Taboo'. This occurred shortly after Toby's
disappearance; and, were it not that from the first moment I had entered the
valley the natives had treated me with uniform kindness, I should have
supposed that their conduct afterwards was to be ascribed to the fact that I
had received this sacred investiture.
The capricious operations of the taboo are not its
least remarkable feature: to enumerate them all would be impossible.
Black hogs—infants to a certain age—women in an
interesting situation—young men while the operation of tattooing their
faces is going on—and certain parts of the valley during the continuance
of a shower—are alike fenced about by the operation of the
taboo.
I witnessed a striking instance of its effects in the bay
of Tior, my visit to which place has been alluded to in a former part of
this narrative. On that occasion our worthy captain formed one of the
party. He was a most insatiable sportsman. Outward bound, and
off the pitch of Cape Horn, he used to sit on the taffrail, and keep the
steward loading three or four old fowling pieces, with which he would bring
down albatrosses, Cape pigeons, jays, petrels, and divers other marine fowl,
who followed chattering in our wake. The sailors were struck
aghast at his impiety, and one and all attributed our forty days' beating
about that horrid headland to his sacrilegious slaughter of these inoffensive
birds.
At Tior he evinced the same disregard for the
religious prejudices of the islanders, as he had previously shown for
the superstitions of the sailors. Having heard that there were
a considerable number of fowls in the valley the progeny of some cocks and
hens accidentally left there by an English vessel, and which, being strictly
tabooed, flew about almost in a wild state—he determined to break through
all restraints, and be the death of them. Accordingly, he provided
himself with a most formidable looking gun, and announced his landing on the
beach by shooting down a noble cock that was crowing what proved to be
his own funeral dirge, on the limb of an adjoining tree.
'Taboo', shrieked the affrighted savages. 'Oh, hang your taboo,' says
the nautical sportsman; 'talk taboo to the marines'; and bang went the
piece again, and down came another victim. At this the natives ran
scampering through the groves, horror-struck at the enormity of the
act.
All that afternoon the rocky sides of the valley rang
with successive reports, and the superb plumage of many a beautiful fowl
was ruffled by the fatal bullet. Had it not been that the French
admiral, with a large party, was then in the glen, I have no doubt that the
natives, although their tribe was small and dispirited, would have inflicted
summary vengeance upon the man who thus outraged their most sacred
institutions; as it was, they contrived to annoy him not a
little.
Thirsting with his exertions, the skipper directed his steps
to a stream; but the savages, who had followed at a little
distance, perceiving his object, rushed towards him and forced him
away from its bank—his lips would have polluted it. Wearied at
last, he sought to enter a house that he might rest for a while on
the mats; its inmates gathered tumultuously about the door and denied him
admittance. He coaxed and blustered by turns, but in vain; the natives
were neither to be intimidated nor appeased, and as a final resort he was
obliged to call together his boat's crew, and pull away from what he termed
the most infernal place he ever stepped upon.
Lucky was it for him and for us that we were not honoured on
our departure by a salute of stones from the hands of the
exasperated Tiors. In this way, on the neighbouring island of Ropo,
were killed, but a few weeks previously, and for a nearly similar offence,
the master and three of the crew of the K—-.
I cannot determine with anything approaching to certainty,
what power it is that imposes the taboo. When I consider the
slight disparity of condition among the islanders—the very limited
and inconsiderable prerogatives of the king and chiefs—and the loose and
indefinite functions of the priesthood, most of whom were hardly to be
distinguished from the rest of their countrymen, I am wholly at a loss where
to look for the authority which regulates this potent institution. It
is imposed upon something today, and withdrawn tomorrow; while its operations
in other cases are perpetual. Sometimes its restrictions only affect
a single individual—sometimes a particular family—sometimes a whole
tribe; and in a few instances they extend not merely over the various clans
on a single island, but over all the inhabitants of an entire group. In
illustration of this latter peculiarity, I may cite the law which forbids a
female to enter a canoe—a prohibition which prevails upon all the
northern Marquesas Islands.
The word itself (taboo) is used in more than one
signification. It is sometimes used by a parent to his child, when in
the exercise of parental authority he forbids it to perform a particular
action. Anything opposed to the ordinary customs of the islanders,
although not expressly prohibited, is said to be 'taboo'.
The Typee language is one very difficult to be acquired; it
bears a close resemblance to the other Polynesian dialects, all of which
show a common origin. The duplication of words, as 'lumee lumee', 'poee
poee', 'muee muee', is one of their peculiar features. But another, and
a more annoying one, is the different senses in which one and the same word
is employed; its various meanings all have a certain connection, which only
makes the matter more puzzling. So one brisk, lively little word
is obliged, like a servant in a poor family, to perform all sorts
of duties; for instance, one particular combination of syllables expresses
the ideas of sleep, rest, reclining, sitting, leaning, and all other things
anywise analogous thereto, the particular meaning being shown chiefly by a
variety of gestures and the eloquent expression of the
countenance.
The intricacy of these dialects is another peculiarity.
In the Missionary College at Lahainaluna, on Mowee, one of the
Sandwich Islands, I saw a tabular exhibition of a Hawiian verb,
conjugated through all its moods and tenses. It covered the side of
a considerable apartment, and I doubt whether Sir William Jones himself
would not have despaired of mastering it.
CHAPTER THIRTY-ONE
STRANGE CUSTOM OF THE ISLANDERS—THEIR CHANTING, AND
THE PECULIARITY OF THEIR VOICE—RAPTURE OF THE KING AT FIRST HEARING A
SONG—A NEW DIGNITY CONFERRED ON THE AUTHOR—MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS IN THE
VALLEY—ADMIRATION OF THE SAVAGES AT BEHOLDING A PUGILISTIC
PERFORMANCE—SWIMMING INFANT—BEAUTIFUL TRESSES OF THE GIRLS—OINTMENT FOR
THE HAIR
SADLY discursive as I have already been, I must still
further entreat the reader's patience, as I am about to string
together, without any attempt at order, a few odds and ends of things
not hitherto mentioned, but which are either curious in themselves
or peculiar to the Typees.
There was one singular custom observed in old Marheyo's
domestic establishment, which often excited my surprise. Every
night, before retiring, the inmates of the house gathered together on the
mats, and so squatting upon their haunches, after the universal practice of
these islanders, would commence a low, dismal and monotonous chant,
accompanying the voice with the instrumental melody produced by two small
half-rotten sticks tapped slowly together, a pair of which were held in the
hands of each person present. Thus would they employ themselves for
an hour or two, sometimes longer. Lying in the gloom which
wrapped the further end of the house, I could not avoid looking at
them, although the spectacle suggested nothing but
unpleasant reflection. The flickering rays of the 'armor' nut just
served to reveal their savage lineaments, without dispelling the darkness
that hovered about them.
Sometimes when, after falling into a kind of doze, and
awaking suddenly in the midst of these doleful chantings, my eye
would fall upon the wild-looking group engaged in their
strange occupation, with their naked tattooed limbs, and shaven
heads disposed in a circle, I was almost tempted to believe that I gazed
upon a set of evil beings in the act of working at a frightful
incantation.
What was the meaning or purpose of this custom, whether it
was practiced merely as a diversion, or whether it was a
religious exercise, a sort of family prayers, I never could
discover.
The sounds produced by the natives on these occasions were of
a most singular description; and had I not actually been present, I never
would have believed that such curious noises could have been produced by
human beings.
To savages generally is imputed a guttural articulation.
This however, is not always the case, especially among the inhabitants of
the Polynesian Archipelago. The labial melody with which the Typee
girls carry on an ordinary conversation, giving a musical prolongation to the
final syllable of every sentence, and chirping out some of the words with a
liquid, bird-like accent, was singularly pleasing.
The men however, are not quite so harmonious in their
utterance, and when excited upon any subject, would work themselves up
into a sort of wordy paroxysm, during which all descriptions
of rough-sided sounds were projected from their mouths, with a force and
rapidity which was absolutely astonishing.
. . .
. . . . .
Although these savages are remarkably fond of chanting,
still they appear to have no idea whatever of singing, at least as the art
is practised in other nations.
I shall never forget the first time I happened to roar out
a stave in the presence of noble Mehevi. It was a stanza from
the 'Bavarian broom-seller'. His Typeean majesty, with all
his court, gazed upon me in amazement, as if I had displayed
some preternatural faculty which Heaven had denied to them. The
King was delighted with the verse; but the chorus fairly
transported him. At his solicitation I sang it again and again, and
nothing could be more ludicrous than his vain attempts to catch the
air and the words. The royal savage seemed to think that by
screwing all the features of his face into the end of his nose he
might possibly succeed in the undertaking, but it failed to answer
the purpose; and in the end he gave it up, and consoled himself
by listening to my repetition of the sounds fifty times over.
Previous to Mehevi's making the discovery, I had never been
aware that there was anything of the nightingale about me; but I was now
promoted to the place of court-minstrel, in which capacity I was afterwards
perpetually called upon to officiate.
. . .
. . . . .
Besides the sticks and the drums, there are no other
musical instruments among the Typees, except one which might appropriately
be denominated a nasal flute. It is somewhat longer than an ordinary
fife; is made of a beautiful scarlet-coloured reed; and has four or five
stops, with a large hole near one end, which latter is held just beneath the
left nostril. The other nostril being closed by a peculiar
movement of the muscles about the nose, the breath is forced into
the tube, and produces a soft dulcet sound which is varied by the fingers
running at random over the stops. This is a favourite recreation with
the females and one in which Fayaway greatly excelled. Awkward as such
an instrument may appear, it was, in Fayaway's delicate little hands, one of
the most graceful I have ever seen. A young lady, in the act of
tormenting a guitar strung about her neck by a couple of yards of blue
ribbon, is not half so engaging.
. . .
. . . . .
Singing was not the only means I possessed of diverting the
royal Mehevi and his easy-going subject. Nothing afforded them
more pleasure than to see me go through the attitude of
pugilistic encounter. As not one of the natives had soul enough in him
to stand up like a man, and allow me to hammer away at him, for my own
personal gratification and that of the king, I was necessitated to fight with
an imaginary enemy, whom I invariably made to knock under to my superior
prowess. Sometimes when this sorely battered shadow retreated
precipitately towards a group of the savages, and, following him up, I rushed
among them dealing my blows right and left, they would disperse in all
directions much to the enjoyment of Mehevi, the chiefs, and
themselves.
The noble art of self-defence appeared to be regarded by them
as the peculiar gift of the white man; and I make little doubt that they
supposed armies of Europeans were drawn up provided with nothing else but
bony fists and stout hearts, with which they set to in column, and pummelled
one another at the word of command.
. . .
. . . . .
One day, in company with Kory-Kory, I had repaired to the
stream for the purpose of bathing, when I observed a woman sitting upon a
rock in the midst of the current, and watching with the liveliest interest
the gambols of something, which at first I took to be an uncommonly large
species of frog that was sporting in the water near her. Attracted by
the novelty of the sight, I waded towards the spot where she sat, and could
hardly credit the evidence of my senses when I beheld a little infant, the
period of whose birth could not have extended back many days,
paddling about as if it had just risen to the surface, after being
hatched into existence at the bottom. Occasionally, the delighted
parent reached out her hand towards it, when the little thing, uttering a
faint cry, and striking out its tiny limbs, would sidle for the rock, and the
next moment be clasped to its mother's bosom. This was repeated again
and again, the baby remaining in the stream about a minute at a time.
Once or twice it made wry faces at swallowing a mouthful of water, and choked
a spluttered as if on the point of strangling. At such times however,
the mother snatched it up and by a process scarcely to be mentioned
obliged it to eject the fluid. For several weeks afterwards I
observed this woman bringing her child down to the stream regularly
every day, in the cool of the morning and evening and treating it to
a bath. No wonder that the South Sea Islanders are so amphibious
a race, when they are thus launched into the water as soon as they see the
light. I am convinced that it is as natural for a human being to swim
as it is for a duck. And yet in civilized communities how many
able-bodied individuals die, like so many drowning kittens, from the
occurrence of the most
trivial accidents!
. .
. . . . . .
The long luxuriant and glossy tresses of the Typee damsels
often attracted my admiration. A fine head of hair is the pride
and joy of every woman's heart. Whether against the express will
of Providence, it is twisted upon the crown of the head and there coiled
away like a rope on a ship's deck; whether it be stuck behind the ears and
hangs down like the swag of a small window-curtain; or whether it be
permitted to flow over the shoulders in natural ringlets, it is always the
pride of the owner, and the glory of the toilette.
The Typee girls devote much of their time to the dressing
of their fair and redundant locks. After bathing, as they
sometimes do five or six times every day, the hair is carefully dried,
and if they have been in the sea, invariably washed in fresh water, and
anointed with a highly scented oil extracted from the meat of the
cocoanut. This oil is obtained in great abundance by the following very
simple process:
A large vessel of wood, with holes perforated in the bottom,
is filled with the pounded meat, and exposed to the rays of the sun. As
the oleaginous matter exudes, it falls in drops through the apertures into a
wide-mouthed calabash placed underneath. After a sufficient
quantity has thus been collected, the oil undergoes a purifying process, and
is then poured into the small spherical shells of the nuts of the moo-tree,
which are hollowed out to receive it. These nuts are then hermetically
sealed with a resinous gum, and the vegetable fragrance of their green
rind soon imparts to the oil a delightful odour. After the lapse of
a few weeks the exterior shell of the nuts becomes quite dry and hard, and
assumes a beautiful carnation tint; and when opened they are found to be
about two-thirds full of an ointment of a light yellow colour and diffusing
the sweetest perfume. This elegant little odorous globe would not be
out of place even upon the toilette of a queen. Its merits as a
preparation for the hair are undeniable—it imparts to it a superb gloss and
a silky fineness.
CHAPTER THIRTY-TWO
APPREHENSIONS OF EVIL—FRIGHTFUL DISCOVERY—SOME REMARKS
ON CANNIBALISM—SECOND BATTLE WITH THE
HAPPARS—SAVAGE SPECTACLE—MYSTERIOUS FEAST—SUBSEQUENT
DISCLOSURES
FROM the time of my casual encounter with Karky the artist,
my life was one of absolute wretchedness. Not a day passed but I was
persecuted by the solicitations of some of the natives to subject myself to
the odious operation of tattooing. Their importunities drove me half
wild, for I felt how easily they might work their will upon me regarding this
or anything else which they took into their heads. Still, however, the
behaviour of the islanders towards me was as kind as ever. Fayaway
was quite as engaging; Kory-Kory as devoted; and Mehevi the king just as
gracious and condescending as before. But I had now been three months
in their valley, as nearly as I could estimate; I had grown familiar with the
narrow limits to which my wandering had been confined; and I began bitterly
to feel the state of captivity in which I was held. There was no one
with whom I could freely converse; no one to whom I could communicate
my thoughts; no one who could sympathize with my sufferings.
A thousand times I thought how much more endurable would have been my lot
had Toby still been with me. But I was left alone, and the thought was
terrible to me. Still, despite my griefs, I did all in my power to
appear composed and cheerful, well knowing that by manifesting any
uneasiness, or any desire to escape, I should only frustrate my
object.
It was during the period I was in this unhappy frame of mind
that the painful malady under which I had been labouring—after
having almost completely subsided—began again to show itself, and
with symptoms as violent as ever. This added calamity nearly
unmanned me; the recurrence of the complaint proved that without
powerful remedial applications all hope of cure was futile; and when
I reflected that just beyond the elevations, which bound me in, was the
medical relief I needed, and that although so near, it was impossible for me
to avail myself of it, the thought was misery.
In this wretched situation, every circumstance which evinced
the savage nature of the beings at whose mercy I was, augmented
the fearful apprehensions that consumed me. An occurrence
which happened about this time affected me most powerfully.
I have already mentioned that from the ridge-pole of
Marheyo's house were suspended a number of packages enveloped in tappa.
Many of these I had often seen in the hands of the natives, and their
contents had been examined in my presence. But there were three
packages hanging very nearly over the place where I lay, which from their
remarkable appearance had often excited my curiosity. Several times I
had asked Kory-Kory to show me their contents, but my servitor, who, in
almost every other particular had acceded to my wishes, refused to gratify me
in this.
One day, returning unexpectedly from the 'Ti', my arrival
seemed to throw the inmates of the house into the greatest confusion.
They were seated together on the mats, and by the lines which extended
from the roof to the floor I immediately perceived that the mysterious
packages were for some purpose or another under inspection. The evident
alarm the savages betrayed filled me with forebodings of evil, and with an
uncontrollable desire to penetrate the secret so jealously guarded.
Despite the efforts of Marheyo and Kory-Kory to restrain me, I forced my way
into the midst of the circle, and just caught a glimpse of three
human heads, which others of the party were hurriedly enveloping in
the coverings from which they had been taken.
One of the three I distinctly saw. It was in a state of
perfect preservation, and from the slight glimpse I had of it, seemed
to have been subjected to some smoking operation which had reduced it to
the dry, hard, and mummy-like appearance it presented. The two long
scalp locks were twisted up into balls upon the crown of the head in the same
way that the individual had worn them during life. The sunken cheeks
were rendered yet more ghastly by the rows of glistening teeth which
protruded from between the lips, while the sockets of the eyes—filled with
oval bits of mother-of-pearl shell, with a black spot in
the centre—heightened the hideousness of its aspect.
Two of the three were heads of the islanders; but the third,
to my horror, was that of a white man. Although it had been
quickly removed from my sight, still the glimpse I had of it was enough to
convince me that I could not be mistaken.
Gracious God! what dreadful thoughts entered my head; in
solving this mystery perhaps I had solved another, and the fate of my lost
companion might be revealed in the shocking spectacle I had just
witnessed. I longed to have torn off the folds of cloth and satisfied
the awful doubts under which I laboured. But before I had recovered
from the consternation into which I had been thrown, the fatal packages were
hoisted aloft, and once more swung over my head. The natives now
gathered round me tumultuously, and laboured to convince me that what I had
just seen were the heads of three Happar warriors, who had been slain in
battle. This glaring falsehood added to my alarm, and it was not until
I reflected that I had observed the packages swinging from their elevation
before Toby's disappearance, that I could at all recover my
composure.
But although this horrible apprehension had been dispelled, I
had discovered enough to fill me, in my present state of mind, with the
most bitter reflections. It was plain that I had seen the last relic of
some unfortunate wretch, who must have been massacred on the beach by the
savages, in one of those perilous trading adventures which I have before
described.
It was not, however, alone the murder of the stranger
that overcame me with gloom. I shuddered at the idea of
the subsequent fate his inanimate body might have met with. Was
the same doom reserved for me? Was I destined to perish like
him— like him perhaps, to be devoured and my head to be preserved as
a fearful memento of the events? My imagination ran riot in
these horrid speculations, and I felt certain that the worst
possible evils would befall me. But whatever were my misgivings,
I studiously concealed them from the islanders, as well as the full extent
of the discovery I had made.
Although the assurances which the Typees had often given me,
that they never eat human flesh, had not convinced me that such was the
case, yet, having been so long a time in the valley without witnessing
anything which indicated the existence of the practice, I began to hope that
it was an event of very rare occurrence, and that I should be spared the
horror of witnessing it during my stay among them: but, alas, these hopes
were soon destroyed.
It is a singular fact, that in all our accounts of
cannibal tribes we have seldom received the testimony of an
eye-witness account to this revolting practice. The horrible conclusion
has almost always been derived from the second-hand evidence of Europeans,
or else from the admissions of the savages themselves, after they have in
some degree become civilized. The Polynesians are aware of the
detestation in which Europeans hold this custom, and therefore invariably
deny its existence, and with the craft peculiar to savages, endeavour to
conceal every trace of it.
The excessive unwillingness betrayed by the Sandwich
Islanders, even at the present day, to allude to the unhappy fate of
Cook, has often been remarked. And so well have they succeeded
in covering the event with mystery, that to this very hour, despite all
that has been said and written on the subject, it still remains doubtful
whether they wreaked upon his murdered body the vengance they sometimes
inflicted upon their enemies.
At Kealakekau, the scene of that tragedy, a strip of
ship's copper nailed against an upright post in the ground used to inform
the traveller that beneath reposed the 'remains' of the great
circumnavigator. But I am strongly inclined to believe not only the
corpse was refused Christian burial, but that the heart which was brought to
Vancouver some time after the event, and which the Hawiians stoutly
maintained was that of Captain Cook, was no such thing; and that the whole
affair was a piece of imposture which was sought to be palmed off upon the
credulous Englishman.
A few years since there was living on the island of Maui (one
of the Sandwich group) an old chief, who, actuated by a morbid desire for
notoriety, gave himself out among the foreign residents of the place as the
living tomb of Captain Cook's big toe!—affirming that at the cannibal
entertainment which ensued after the lamented Briton's death, that particular
portion of his body had fallen to his share. His indignant countrymen
actually caused him to be prosecuted in the native courts, on a
charge nearly equivalent to what we term defamation of character; but the
old fellow persisting in his assertion, and no invalidating proof being
adduced, the plaintiffs were cast in the suit, and the cannibal reputation of
the defendant firmly established. This result was the making of his
fortune; ever afterwards he was in the habit of giving very profitable
audiences to all curious travellers who were desirous of beholding the man
who had eaten the great navigator's great toe.
About a week after my discovery of the contents of the
mysterious packages, I happened to be at the Ti, when another war-alarm
was sounded, and the natives rushing to their arms, sallied out to resist
a second incursion of the Happar invaders. The same scene was again
repeated, only that on this occasion I heard at least fifteen reports of
muskets from the mountains during the time that the skirmish lasted. An
hour or two after its termination, loud paeans chanted through the valley
announced the approach of the victors. I stood with Kory-Kory leaning
against the railing of the pi-pi awaiting their advance, when a tumultuous
crowd of islanders emerged with wild clamours from the
neighbouring groves. In the midst of them marched four men, one
preceding the other at regular intervals of eight or ten feet, with poles of
a corresponding length, extending from shoulder to shoulder, to which were
lashed with thongs of bark three long narrow bundles, carefully wrapped in
ample coverings of freshly plucked palm-leaves, tacked together with slivers
of bamboo. Here and there upon these green winding-sheets might be seen
the stains of blood, while the warriors who carried the frightful
burdens displayed upon their naked limbs similar sanguinary marks.
The shaven head of the foremost had a deep gash upon it, and the clotted
gore which had flowed from the wound remained in dry patches around it.
The savage seemed to be sinking under the weight he bore. The bright
tattooing upon his body was covered with blood and dust; his inflamed eyes
rolled in their sockets, and his whole appearance denoted extraordinary
suffering and exertion; yet sustained by some powerful impulse, he continued
to advance, while the throng around him with wild cheers sought
to encourage him. The other three men were marked about the arms and
breasts with several slight wounds, which they somewhat ostentatiously
displayed.
These four individuals, having been the most active in the
late encounter, claimed the honour of bearing the bodies of their slain
enemies to the Ti. Such was the conclusion I drew from my own
observations, and, as far as I could understand, from the explanation which
Kory-Kory gave me.
The royal Mehevi walked by the side of these heroes. He
carried in one hand a musket, from the barrel of which was suspended
a small canvas pouch of powder, and in the other he grasped a
short javelin, which he held before him and regarded with
fierce exultation. This javelin he had wrested from a
celebrated champion of the Happars, who had ignominiously fled, and
was pursued by his foes beyond the summit of the mountain.
When within a short distance of the Ti, the warrior with
the wounded head, who proved to be Narmonee, tottered forward two or three
steps, and fell helplessly to the ground; but not before another had caught
the end of the pole from his shoulder, and placed it upon his
own.
The excited throng of islanders, who surrounded the person of
the king and the dead bodies of the enemy, approached the spot where I
stood, brandishing their rude implements of warfare, many of which were
bruised and broken, and uttering continual shouts of triumph. When the
crowd drew up opposite the Ti, I set myself to watch their proceedings most
attentively; but scarcely had they halted when my servitor, who had left my
side for an instant, touched my arm and proposed our returning to Marheyo's
house. To this I objected; but, to my surprise, Kory-Kory reiterated
his request, and with an unusual vehemence of manner.
Still, however, I refused to comply, and was retreating before him, as in
his importunity he pressed upon me, when I felt a heavy hand laid upon my
shoulder, and turning round, encountered the bulky form of Mow-Mow, a
one-eyed chief, who had just detached himself from the crowd below, and had
mounted the rear of the pi-pi upon which we stood. His cheek had been
pierced by the point of a spear, and the wound imparted a still more
frightful expression to his hideously tattooed face, already deformed by the
loss of an eye. The warrior, without uttering a syllable,
pointed fiercely in the direction of Marheyo's house, while Kory-Kory,
at the same time presenting his back, desired me to mount.
I declined this offer, but intimated my willingness to
withdraw, and moved slowly along the piazza, wondering what could be
the cause of this unusual treatment. A few minutes'
consideration convinced me that the savages were about to celebrate
some hideous rite in connection with their peculiar customs, and at which
they were determined I should not be present. I descended from the
pi-pi, and attended by Kory-Kory, who on this occasion did not show his usual
commiseration for my lameness, but seemed only anxious to hurry me on, walked
away from the place. As I passed through the noisy throng, which by
this time completely environed the Ti, I looked with fearful curiosity at the
three packages, which now were deposited upon the ground; but although I
had no doubt as to their contents, still their thick coverings prevented my
actually detecting the form of a human body.
The next morning, shortly after sunrise, the same
thundering sounds which had awakened me from sleep on the second day of
the Feast of Calabashes, assured me that the savages were on the eve of
celebrating another, and, as I fully believed, a
horrible solemnity.
All the inmates of the house, with the exception of Marheyo,
his son, and Tinor, after assuming their gala dresses, departed in the
direction of the Taboo Groves.
Although I did not anticipate a compliance with my
request, still, with a view of testing the truth of my suspicions,
I proposed to Kory-Kory that, according to our usual custom in
the morning, we should take a stroll to the Ti: he positively refused; and
when I renewed the request, he evinced his determination to prevent my going
there; and, to divert my mind from the subject, he offered to accompany me to
the stream. We accordingly went, and bathed. On our coming back
to the house, I was surprised to find that all its inmates had returned, and
were lounging upon the mats as usual, although the drums still
sounded from the groves.
The rest of the day I spent with Kory-Kory and Fayaway,
wandering about a part of the valley situated in an opposite direction
from the Ti, and whenever I so much as looked towards that
building, although it was hidden from view by intervening trees, and at
the distance of more than a mile, my attendant would exclaim,
'Taboo, taboo!'
At the various houses where we stopped, I found many of
the inhabitants reclining at their ease, or pursuing some
light occupation, as if nothing unusual were going forward; but
amongst them all I did not perceive a single chief or warrior. When
I asked several of the people why they were not at the 'Hoolah Hoolah'
(the feast), their uniformly answered the question in a manner which implied
that it was not intended for them, but for Mehevi, Narmonee, Mow-Mow, Kolor,
Womonoo, Kalow, running over, in their desire to make me comprehend their
meaning, the names of all the principal chiefs.
Everything, in short, strengthened my suspicions with regard
to the nature of the festival they were now celebrating; and
which amounted almost to a certainty. While in Nukuheva I
had frequently been informed that the whole tribe were never present at
these cannibal banquets, but the chiefs and priests only; and everything I
now observed agreed with the account.
The sound of the drums continued without intermission the
whole day, and falling continually upon my ear, caused me a sensation of
horror which I am unable to describe. On the following day, hearing
none of those noisy indications of revelry, I concluded that the inhuman
feast was terminated; and feeling a kind of morbid curiosity to discover
whether the Ti might furnish any evidence of what had taken place there, I
proposed to Kory-Kory to walk there. To this proposition he replied by
pointing with his finger to the newly risen sun, and then up to the
zenith, intimating that our visit must be deferred until noon.
Shortly after that hour we accordingly proceeded to the Taboo Groves,
and as soon as we entered their precincts, I looked fearfully round in,
quest of some memorial of the scene which had so lately been acted there; but
everything appeared as usual. On reaching the Ti, we found Mehevi and a
few chiefs reclining on the mats, who gave me as friendly a reception as
ever. No allusions of any kind were made by them to the recent events;
and I refrained, for obvious reasons, from referring to them
myself.
After staying a short time I took my leave. In passing
along the piazza, previously to descending from the pi-pi, I observed
a curiously carved vessel of wood, of considerable size, with a cover
placed over it, of the same material, and which resembled in shape a small
canoe. It was surrounded by a low railing of bamboos, the top of which
was scarcely a foot from the ground. As the vessel had been placed in
its present position since my last visit, I at once concluded that it must
have some connection with the recent festival, and, prompted by a curiosity I
could not repress, in passing it I raised one end of the cover; at
the same moment the chiefs, perceiving my design, loudly
ejaculated, 'Taboo! taboo!'
But the slight glimpse sufficed; my eyes fell upon the
disordered members of a human skeleton, the bones still fresh with
moisture, and with particles of flesh clinging to them here and
there!
Kory-Kory, who had been a little in advance of me, attracted
by the exclamations of the chiefs, turned round in time to witness the
expression of horror on my countenance. He now hurried towards me,
pointing at the same time to the canoe, and exclaiming rapidly,
'Puarkee! puarkee!' (Pig, pig). I pretended to yield to the
deception, and repeated the words after him several times, as though
acquiescing in what he said. The other savages, either deceived by my
conduct or unwilling to manifest their displeasure at what could not now be
remedied, took no further notice of the occurrence, and I immediately left
the Ti.
All that night I lay awake, revolving in my mind the
fearful situation in which I was placed. The last horrid revelation
had now been made, and the full sense of my condition rushed upon my mind
with a force I had never before experienced.
Where, thought I, desponding, is there the slightest prospect
of escape? The only person who seemed to possess the ability
to assist me was the stranger Marnoo; but would he ever return to the
valley? and if he did, should I be permitted to hold any communication
with him? It seemed as if I were cut off from every source of hope, and
that nothing remained but passively to await whatever fate was in store for
me. A thousand times I endeavoured to account for the mysterious
conduct of the natives.
For what conceivable purpose did they thus retain me a
captive? What could be their object in treating me with such
apparent kindness, and did it not cover some treacherous scheme? Or,
if they had no other design than to hold me a prisoner, how should I be
able to pass away my days in this narrow valley, deprived of all intercourse
with civilized beings, and for ever separated from friends and
home?
One only hope remained to me. The French could not long
defer a visit to the bay, and if they should permanently locate any
of their troops in the valley, the savages could not for any length of
time conceal my existence from them. But what reason had I to suppose
that I should be spared until such an event occurred, an event which might be
postponed by a hundred different contingencies?
CHAPTER THIRTY-THREE
THE STRANGER AGAIN ARRIVES IN THE VALLEY—SINGULAR INTERVIEW
WITH HIM—ATTEMPT TO ESCAPE—FAILURE—MELANCHOLY SITUATION—SYMPATHY OF
MARHEYO
'MARNOO, Marnoo pemi!' Such were the welcome sounds
which fell upon my ear some ten days after the events related in
the preceding chapter. Once more the approach of the stranger
was heralded, and the intelligence operated upon me like magic.
Again I should be able to converse with him in my own language; and I
resolve at all hazards to concert with him some scheme, however desperate, to
rescue me from a condition that had now become insupportable.
As he drew near, I remembered with many misgivings
the inauspicious termination of our former interview, and when he entered
the house, I watched with intense anxiety the reception he met with from its
inmates. To my joy, his appearance was hailed with the liveliest
pleasure; and accosting me kindly, he seated himself by my, side, and entered
into conversation with the natives around him. It soon appeared
however, that on this occasion he had not any intelligence of importance
to communicate. I inquired of him from whence he had just come?
He replied from Pueearka, his native valley, and that he intended
to return to it the same day.
At once it struck me that, could I but reach that valley
under his protection, I might easily from thence reach Nukuheva by water;
and animated by the prospect which this plan held, out I disclosed it in a
few brief words to the stranger, and asked him how it could be best
accomplished. My heart sunk within me, when in his broken English he
answered me that it could never be effected. 'Kanaka no let you go
nowhere,' he said; 'you taboo. Why you no like to stay? Plenty
moee-moee (sleep)—plenty ki-ki (eat)—plenty wahenee (young girls)—Oh, very
good place Typee! Suppose you no like this bay, why you come?
You no hear about Typee? All white men afraid Typee, so no white men
come.'
These words distressed me beyond belief; and when I had
again related to him the circumstances under which I had descended
into the valley, and sought to enlist his sympathies in my behalf
by appealing to the bodily misery I had endure, he listened
with impatience, and cut me short by exclaiming passionately, 'Me no hear
you talk any more; by by Kanaka get mad, kill you and me too. No you
see he no want you to speak at all?—you see—ah! by by you no mind—you get
well, he kill you, eat you, hang you head up there, like Happar Kanaka.—Now
you listen—but no talk any more. By by I go; you see way I
go—Ah! then some night Kanaka all moee-moee (sleep)—you run away, you
come Pueearka. I speak Pueearka Kanaka—he no harm you—ah! then
I take you my canoe Nukuheva—and you run away ship no more.' With
these words, enforced by a vehemence of gesture I cannot describe, Marnoo
started from my side, and immediately engaged in conversation with some of
the chiefs who had entered the house.
It would have been idle for me to have attempted resuming
the interview so peremptorily terminated by Marnoo, who was
evidently little disposed to compromise his own safety by any
rash endeavour to ensure mine. But the plan he had suggested
struck me as one which might possibly be accomplished, and I resolved
to act upon it as speedily as possible.
Accordingly, when he arose to depart, I accompanied him with
the natives outside of the house, with a view of carefully noting the path
he would take in leaving the valley. Just before leaping from the pi-pi
he clasped my hand, and looking significantly at me, exclaimed, 'Now you
see—you do what I tell you—ah! then you do good—you no do
so—ah! then you die.' The next moment he waved his spear to the
islanders, and following the route that conducted to a defile in the
mountains lying opposite the Happar side, was soon out of sight.
A mode of escape was now presented to me, but how was I to
avail myself of it? I was continually surrounded by the savages;
I could not stir from one house to another without being attended by some
of them; and even during the hours devoted to slumber, the slightest movement
which I made seemed to attract the notice of those who shared the mats with
me. In spite of these obstacles, however, I determined forthwith to
make the attempt. To do so with any prospect of success, it was
necessary that I should have at least two hours start before the islanders
should discover my absence; for with such facility was any alarm
spread through the valley, and so familiar, of course, were
the inhabitants with the intricacies of the groves, that I could not hope,
lame and feeble as I was, and ignorant of the route, to secure my escape
unless I had this advantage. It was also by night alone that I could
hope to accomplish my object, and then only by adopting the utmost
precaution.
The entrance to Marheyo's habitation was through a low
narrow opening in its wicker-work front. This passage, for
no conceivable reason that I could devise, was always closed after the
household had retired to rest, by drawing a heavy slide across it, composed
of a dozen or more bits of wood, ingeniously fastened together by seizings of
sinnate. When any of the inmates chose to go outside, the noise
occasioned by the removing of this rude door awakened every body else; and on
more than one occasion I had remarked that the islanders were nearly
as irritable as more civilized beings under similar
circumstances.
The difficulty thus placed in my way I, determined to obviate
in the following manner. I would get up boldly in the course of
the night, and drawing the slide, issue from the house, and pretend that
my object was merely to procure a drink from the calabash, which always stood
without the dwelling on the corner of the pi-pi. On re-entering I would
purposely omit closing the passage after me, and trusting that the indolence
of the savages would prevent them from repairing my neglect, would return to
my mat, and waiting patiently until all were again asleep, I would
then steal forth, and at once take the route to Pueearka.
The very night which followed Marnoo's departure, I proceeded
to put this project into execution. About midnight, as I imagined, I
arose and drew the slide. The natives, just as I had expected, started
up, while some of them asked, 'Arware poo awa, Tommo?' (where are you going,
Tommo?) 'Wai' (water) I laconically answered, grasping the
calabash. On hearing my reply they sank back again, and in a minute or
two I returned to my mat, anxiously awaiting the result of the
experiment.
One after another the savages, turning restlessly, appeared
to resume their slumbers, and rejoicing at the stillness which prevailed,
I was about to rise again from my couch, when I heard a slight rustling—a
dark form was intercepted between me and the doorway—the slide was drawn
across it, and the individual, whoever he was, returned to his mat.
This was a sad blow to me; but as it might have aroused the suspicions of the
islanders to have made another attempt that night, I was reluctantly
obliged to defer it until the next. Several times after I repeated
the same manoeuvre, but with as little success as before. As
my pretence for withdrawing from the house was to allay my
thirst, Kory-Kory either suspecting some design on my part, or
else prompted by a desire to please me, regularly every evening placed a
calabash of water by my side.
Even, under these inauspicious circumstances I again and
again renewed the attempt, but when I did so, my valet always rose
with me, as if determined I should not remove myself from
his observation. For the present, therefore, I was obliged
to abandon the attempt; but I endeavoured to console myself with the idea
that by this mode I might yet effect my escape.
Shortly after Marnoo's visit I was reduced to such a state
that it was with extreme difficulty I could walk, even with the assistance
of a spear, and Kory-Kory, as formerly, was obliged to carry me daily to the
stream.
For hours and hours during the warmest part of the day I lay
upon my mat, and while those around me were nearly all dozing away
in careless ease, I remained awake, gloomily pondering over the fate which
it appeared now idle for me to resist, when I thought of the loved friends
who were thousands and thousands of miles from the savage island in which I
was held a captive, when I reflected that my dreadful fate would for ever be
concealed from them, and that with hope deferred they might continue to await
my return long after my inanimate form had blended with the dust of
the valley—I could not repress a shudder of anguish.
How vividly is impressed upon my mind every minute feature of
the scene which met my view during those long days of suffering
and sorrow. At my request my mats were always spread directly
facing the door, opposite which, and at a little distance, was the hut of
boughs that Marheyo was building.
Whenever my gentle Fayaway and Kory-Kory, laying themselves
down beside me, would leave me awhile to uninterrupted repose, I took a
strange interest in the slightest movements of the eccentric old
warrior. All alone during the stillness of the tropical mid-day, he
would pursue his quiet work, sitting in the shade and weaving together the
leaflets of his cocoanut branches, or rolling upon his knee the twisted
fibres of bark to form the cords with which he tied together the thatching of
his tiny house. Frequently suspending his employment, and noticing
my melancholy eye fixed upon him, he would raise his hand with a gesture
expressive of deep commiseration, and then moving towards me slowly, would
enter on tip-toes, fearful of disturbing the slumbering natives, and, taking
the fan from my hand, would sit before me, swaying it gently to and fro, and
gazing earnestly into my face.
Just beyond the pi-pi, and disposed in a triangle before
the entrance of the house, were three magnificent bread-fruit trees.
At this moment I can recap to my mind their slender shafts, and the
graceful inequalities of their bark, on which my eye was accustomed to dwell
day after day in the midst of my solitary musings. It is strange how
inanimate objects will twine themselves into our affections, especially in
the hour of affliction. Even now, amidst all the bustle and stir of
the proud and busy city in which I am dwelling, the image of those three
trees seems to come as vividly before my eyes as if they were actually
present, and I still feel the soothing quiet pleasure which I then had in
watching hour after hour their topmost boughs waving gracefully in the
breeze.
CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR
THE ESCAPE
NEARLY three weeks had elapsed since the second visit of
Marnoo, and it must have been more than four months since I entered
the valley, when one day about noon, and whilst everything was in profound
silence, Mow-Mow, the one-eyed chief, suddenly appeared at the door, and
leaning towards me as I lay directly facing him, said in a low tone, 'Toby
pemi ena' (Toby has arrived here). Gracious heaven! What a
tumult of emotions rushed upon me at this startling intelligence!
Insensible to the pain that had before distracted me, I leaped to my feet,
and called wildly to Kory-Kory who was reposing by my side. The
startled islanders sprang from their mats; the news was quickly communicated
to them; and the next moment I was making my way to the Ti on the back of
Kory-Kory; and surrounded by the excited savages.
All that I could comprehend of the particulars which
Mow-Mow rehearsed to his audience as we proceeded, was that my
long-lost companion had arrived in a boat which had just entered the
bay. These tidings made me most anxious to be carried at once to
the sea, lest some untoward circumstance should prevent our meeting; but
to this they would not consent, and continued their course towards the royal
abode. As we approached it, Mehevi and several chiefs showed themselves
from the piazza, and called upon us loudly to come to them.
As soon as we had approached, I endeavoured to make
them understand that I was going down to the sea to meet Toby.
To this the king objected, and motioned Kory-Kory to bring me into the
house. It was in vain to resist; and in a few moments I found myself
within the Ti, surrounded by a noisy group engaged in discussing the recent
intelligence. Toby's name was frequently repeated, coupled with violent
exclamations of astonishment. It seemed as if they yet remained in
doubt with regard to the fact of his arrival, at at every fresh report
that was brought from the shore they betrayed the liveliest
emotions.
Almost frenzied at being held in this state of suspense,
I passionately besought Mehevi to permit me to proceed. Whether
my companion had arrived or not, I felt a presentiment that my own fate
was about to be decided. Again and again I renewed my petition to
Mehevi. He regarded me with a fixed and serious eye, but at length
yielding to my importunity, reluctantly granted my request.
Accompanied by some fifty of the natives, I now rapidly
continued my journey; every few moments being transferred from the back
of one to another, and urging my bearer forward all the while with earnest
entreaties. As I thus hurried forward, no doubt as to the truth of the
information I had received ever crossed my mind.
I was alive only to the one overwhelming idea, that a chance
of deliverance was now afforded me, if the jealous opposition of
the savages could be overcome.
Having been prohibited from approaching the sea during the
whole of my stay in the valley, I had always associated with it the idea
of escape. Toby too—if indeed he had ever voluntarily deserted
me—must have effected this flight by the sea; and now that I was drawing
near to it myself, I indulged in hopes which I had never felt before.
It was evident that a boat had entered the bay, and I saw little reason to
doubt the truth of the report that it had brought my companion. Every
time therefore that we gained an elevation, I looked eagerly around, hoping
to behold him. In the midst of an excited throng, who by their
violent gestures and wild cries appeared to be under the influence of some
excitement as strong as my own, I was now borne along at a rapid trot,
frequently stooping my head to avoid the branches which crossed the path, and
never ceasing to implore those who carried me to accelerate their already
swift pace.
In this manner we had proceeded about four or five miles, when
we were met by a party of some twenty islanders, between whom and those
who accompanied me ensued an animated conference. Impatient of the
delay occasioned by this interruption, I was beseeching the man who carried
me to proceed without his loitering companions, when Kory-Kory, running to my
side, informed me, in three fatal words, that the news had all
proved, false—that Toby had not arrived—'Toby owlee pemi'. Heaven
only knows how, in the state of mind and body I then was, I ever sustained
the agony which this intelligence caused me; not that the news was altogether
unexpected; but I had trusted that the fact might not have been made known
until we should have arrived upon the beach. As it was, I at once
foresaw the course the savages would pursue. They had only yielded thus
far to my entreaties, that I might give a joyful welcome to my
long-lost comrade; but now that it was known he had not arrived they
would at once oblige me to turn back.
My anticipations were but too correct. In spite of
the resistance I made, they carried me into a house which was near the
spot, and left me upon the mats. Shortly afterwards several of those
who had accompanied me from the Ti, detaching themselves from the others,
proceeded in the direction of the sea. Those who remained—among whom
were Marheyo, Mow-Mow, Kory-Kory, and Tinor—gathered about the dwelling, and
appeared to be awaiting their return.
This convinced me that strangers—perhaps some of my
own countrymen—had for some cause or other entered the bay.
Distracted at the idea of their vicinity, and reckless of the pain which
I suffered, I heeded not the assurances of the islanders, that there were no
boats at the beach, but starting to my feet endeavoured to gain the
door. Instantly the passage was blocked up by several men, who
commanded me to resume my seat. The fierce looks of the irritated
savages admonished me that I could gain nothing by force, and that it was by
entreaty alone that I could hope to compass my object.
Guided by this consideration, I turned to Mow-Mow, the only
chief present whom I had been much in the habit of seeing, and carefully
concealing, my real design, tried to make him comprehend that I still
believed Toby to have arrived on the shore, and besought him to allow me to
go forward to welcome him.
To all his repeated assertions, that my companion had not
been seen, I pretended to turn a deaf ear, while I urged my solicitations
with an eloquence of gesture which the one-eyed chief appeared unable to
resist. He seemed indeed to regard me as a forward child, to whose
wishes he had not the heart to oppose force, and whom he must consequently
humour. He spoke a few words to the natives, who at once retreated from
the door, and I immediately passed out of the house.
Here I looked earnestly round for Kory-Kory; but that
hitherto faithful servitor was nowhere to be seen. Unwilling to
linger even for a single instant when every moment might be so important,
I motioned to a muscular fellow near me to take me upon his back; to my
surprise he angrily refused. I turned to another, but with a like
result. A third attempt was as unsuccessful, and I immediately
perceived what had induced Mow-Mow to grant my request, and why the other
natives conducted themselves in so strange a manner. It was evident
that the chief had only given me liberty to continue my progress towards
the sea, because he supposed that I was deprived of the means of reaching
it.
Convinced by this of their determination to retain me a
captive, I became desperate; and almost insensible to the pain which
I suffered, I seized a spear which was leaning against the projecting
eaves of the house, and supporting myself with it, resumed the path that
swept by the dwelling. To my surprise, I was suffered to proceed alone;
all the natives remaining in front of the house, and engaging in earnest
conversation, which every moment became more loud and vehement; and to my
unspeakable delight, I perceived that some difference of opinion had
arisen between them; that two parties, in short, were formed,
and consequently that in their divided counsels there was some chance of
my deliverance.
Before I had proceeded a hundred yards I was again surrounded
by the savages, who were still in all the heat of argument, and appeared
every moment as if they would come to blows. In the midst of this
tumult old Marheyo came to my side, and I shall never forget the benevolent
expression of his countenance. He placed his arm upon my shoulder, and
emphatically pronounced the only two English words I had taught him 'Home'
and 'Mother'. I at once understood what he meant, and eagerly expressed
my thanks to him. Fayaway and Kory-Kory were by his side, both
weeping violently; and it was not until the old man had twice repeated the
command that his son could bring himself to obey him, and take me again upon
his back. The one-eyed chief opposed his doing so, but he was
overruled, and, as it seemed to me, by some of his own party.
We proceeded onwards, and never shall I forget the ecstasy I
felt when I first heard the roar of the surf breaking upon the beach.
Before long I saw the flashing billows themselves through the opening
between the trees. Oh glorious sight and sound of ocean! with what
rapture did I hail you as familiar friends! By this time the shouts of
the crowd upon the beach were distinctly audible, and in the blended
confusion of sounds I almost fancied I could distinguish the voices of my own
countrymen.
When we reached the open space which lay between the groves
and the sea, the first object that met my view was an English whale-boat,
lying with her bow pointed from the shore, and only a few fathoms distant
from it. It was manned by five islanders, dressed in shirt tunics of
calico. My first impression was that they were in the very act of
pulling out from the bay; and that, after all my exertions, I had come too
late. My soul sunk within me: but a second glance convinced me that the
boat was only hanging off to keep out of the surf; and the next moment I
heard my own name shouted out by a voice from the midst of the
crowd.
Looking in the direction of the sound, I perceived, to
my indescribable joy, the tall figure of Karakoee, an Oahu Kanaka, who had
often been aboard the 'Dolly', while she lay in Nukuheva. He wore the green
shooting-jacket with gilt buttons, which had been given to him by an officer
of the Reine Blanche—the French flag-ship—and in which I had always seen
him dressed. I now remembered the Kanaka had frequently told me that
his person was tabooed in all the valleys of the island, and the sight of him
at such a moment as this filled my heart with a tumult of
delight.
Karakoee stood near the edge of the water with a large roll
of cotton-cloth thrown over one arm, and holding two or three canvas bags
of powder, while with the other hand he grasped a musket, which he appeared
to be proffering to several of the chiefs around him. But they turned
with disgust from his offers and seemed to be impatient at his presence, with
vehement gestures waving him off to his boat, and commanding him to
depart.
The Kanaka, however, still maintained his ground, and I at
once perceived that he was seeking to purchase my freedom.
Animated by the idea, I called upon him loudly to come to me; but
he replied, in broken English, that the islanders had threatened to pierce
him with their spears, if he stirred a foot towards me. At this time I
was still advancing, surrounded by a dense throng of the natives, several of
whom had their hands upon me, and more than one javelin was threateningly
pointed at me. Still I perceived clearly that many of those least
friendly towards me looked irresolute and anxious. I was still some
thirty yards from Karakoee when my farther progress was prevented by
the natives, who compelled me to sit down upon the ground, while
they still retained their hold upon my arms. The din and tumult
now became tenfold, and I perceived that several of the priests were on
the spot, all of whom were evidently urging Mow-Mow and the other chiefs to
prevent my departure; and the detestable word 'Roo-ne! Roo-ne!' which I
had heard repeated a thousand times during the day, was now shouted out on
every side of me. Still I saw that the Kanaka continued his exertions
in my favour—that he was boldly debating the matter with the savages, and
was striving to entice them by displaying his cloth and powder, and
snapping the lock of his musket. But all he said or did appeared only
to augment the clamours of those around him, who seemed bent upon driving
him into the sea.
When I remembered the extravagant value placed by these
people upon the articles which were offered to them in exchange for
me, and which were so indignantly rejected, I saw a new proof of the same
fixed determination of purpose they had all along manifested with regard to
me, and in despair, and reckless of consequences, I exerted all my strength,
and shaking myself free from the grasp of those who held me, I sprang upon my
feet and rushed towards Karakoee.
The rash attempt nearly decided my fate; for, fearful that
I might slip from them, several of the islanders now raised a simultaneous
shout, and pressing upon Karakoee, they menaced him with furious gestures,
and actually forced him into the sea. Appalled at their violence, the
poor fellow, standing nearly to the waist in the surf, endeavoured to pacify
them; but at length fearful that they would do him some fatal violence, he
beckoned to his comrades to pull in at once, and take him into the
boat.
It was at this agonizing moment, when I thought all hope
was ended, that a new contest arose between the two parties who
had accompanied me to the shore; blows were struck, wounds were given, and
blood flowed. In the interest excited by the fray, every one had left
me except Marheyo, Kory-Kory and poor dear Fayaway, who clung to me, sobbing
indignantly. I saw that now or never was the moment. Clasping my
hands together, I looked imploringly at Marheyo, and move towards the now
almost deserted beach. The tears were in the old man's eyes, but
neither he nor Kory-Kory attempted to hold me, and I soon reached the
Kanaka, who had anxiously watched my movements; the rowers pulled in
as near as they dared to the edge of the surf; I gave one parting embrace
to Fayaway, who seemed speechless with sorrow, and the next instant I found
myself safe in the boat, and Karakoee by my side, who told the rowers at once
to give way. Marheyo and Kory-Kory, and a great many of the women,
followed me into the water, and I was determined, as the only mark of
gratitude I could show, to give them the articles which had been brought
as my ransom. I handed the musket to Kory-Kory, with a rapid gesture
which was equivalent to a 'Deed of Gift'; threw the roll of cotton to old
Marheyo, pointing as I did so to poor Fayaway, who had retired from the edge
of the water and was sitting down disconsolate on the shingles; and tumbled
the powder-bags out to the nearest young ladies, all of whom were vastly
willing to take them. This distribution did not occupy ten seconds, and
before it was over the boat was under full way; the Kanaka all the
while exclaiming loudly against what he considered a useless throwing away
of valuable property.
Although it was clear that my movements had been noticed
by several of the natives, still they had not suspended the conflict in
which they were engaged, and it was not until the boat was above fifty yards
from the shore that Mow-Mow and some six or seven other warriors rushed into
the sea and hurled their javelins at us. Some of the weapons passed
quite as close to us as was desirable, but no one was wounded, and the men
pulled away gallantly. But although soon out of the reach of the
spears, our progress was extremely slow; it blew strong upon the shore,
and the tide was against us; and I saw Karakoee, who was steering
the boat, give many a look towards a jutting point of the bay round which
we had to pass.
For a minute or two after our departure, the savages, who
had formed into different groups, remained perfectly motionless
and silent. All at-once the enraged chief showed by his
gestures that he had resolved what course he would take. Shouting
loudly to his companions, and pointing with his tomahawk towards
the headland, he set off at full speed in that direction, and was followed
by about thirty of the natives, among whom were several of the priests, all
yelling out 'Roo-ne! Roo-ne!' at the very top of their voices.
Their intention was evidently to swim off from the headland and intercept us
in our course. The wind was freshening every minute, and was right in
our teeth, and it was one of those chopping angry seas in which it is so
difficult to row. Still the chances seemed in our favour, but when we
came within a hundred yards of the point, the active savages were already
dashing into the water, and we all feared that within five minutes' time we
should have a score of the infuriated wretches around us. If so our
doom was sealed, for these savages, unlike the feeble swimmer of civilized
countries, are, if anything, more formidable antagonists in the water than
when on the land. It was all a trial of strength; our natives
pulled till their oars bent again, and the crowd of swimmers shot through
the water despite its roughness, with fearful rapidity.
By the time we had reached the headland, the savages were
spread right across our course. Our rowers got out their knives
and held them ready between their teeth, and I seized the boat-hook.
We were all aware that if they succeeded in intercepting us they would
practise upon us the manoeuvre which has proved so fatal to many a boat's
crew in these seas. They would grapple the oars, and seizing hold of
the gunwhale, capsize the boat, and then we should be entirely at their
mercy.
After a few breathless moments discerned Mow-Mow. The
athletic islander, with his tomahawk between his teeth, was dashing
the water before him till it foamed again. He was the nearest to
us, and in another instant he would have seized one of the oars.
Even at the moment I felt horror at the act I was about to commit; but it
was no time for pity or compunction, and with a true aim, and exerting all my
strength, I dashed the boat-hook at him. It struck him just below the
throat, and forced him downwards. I had no time to repeat the blow, but
I saw him rise to the surface in the wake of the boat, and never shall I
forget the ferocious expression of his countenance.
Only one other of the savages reached the boat. He
seized the gunwhale, but the knives of our rowers so mauled his wrists,
that he was forced to quit his hold, and the next minute we were past them
all, and in safety. The strong excitement which had thus far kept me
up, now left me, and I fell back fainting into the arms of
Karakoee.
. . . . . . . .
The circumstances connected with my most unexpected escape may
be very briefly stated. The captain of an Australian vessel,
being in distress for men in these remote seas, had put into Nukuheva in
order to recruit his ship's company; but not a single man was to be obtained;
and the barque was about to get under weigh, when she was boarded by
Karakoee, who informed the disappointed Englishman that an American sailor
was detained by the savages in the neighbouring bay of Typee; and he offered,
if supplied with suitable articles of traffic, to undertake his
release. The Kanaka had gained his intelligence from Marnoo, to whom,
after all, I was indebted for my escape. The proposition was
acceded to; and Karakoee, taking with him five tabooed natives
of Nukuheva, again repaired aboard the barque, which in a few hours sailed
to that part of the island, and threw her main-top-sail aback right off the
entrance to the Typee bay. The whale-boat, manned by the tabooed crew,
pulled towards the head of the inlet, while the ship lay 'off and on'
awaiting its return.
The events which ensued have already been detailed, and
little more remains to be related. On reaching the 'Julia' I was
lifted over the side, and my strange appearance and remarkable
adventure occasioned the liveliest interest. Every attention was
bestowed upon me that humanity could suggest. But to such a state was
I reduced, that three months elapsed before I recovered my
health.
The mystery which hung over the fate of my friend and
companion Toby has never been cleared up. I still remain ignorant
whether he succeeded in leaving the valley, or perished at the hands
of the islanders.
THE STORY OF TOBY
THE morning my comrade left me, as related in the narrative,
he was accompanied by a large party of the natives, some of them carrying
fruit and hogs for the purposes of traffic, as the report had spread that
boats had touched at the bay.
As they proceeded through the settled parts of the
valley, numbers joined them from every side, running with animated
cries from every pathway. So excited were the whole party, that
eager as Toby was to gain the beach, it was almost as much as he could do
to keep up with them. Making the valley ring with their shouts, they
hurried along on a swift trot, those in advance pausing now and then, and
flourishing their weapons to urge the rest forward.
Presently they came to a place where the paths crossed a bend
of the main stream of the valley. Here a strange sound came
through the grove beyond, and the Islanders halted. It was Mow-Mow,
the one-eyed chief, who had gone on before; he was striking his
heavy lance against the hollow bough of a tree.
This was a signal of alarm; for nothing was now heard but
shouts of 'Happar! Happar!'—the warriors tilting with their spears
and brandishing them in the air, and the women and boys shouting to each
other, and picking up the stones in the bed of the stream. In a moment
or two Mow-Mow and two or three other chiefs ran out from the grove, and the
din increased ten fold.
Now, thought Toby, for a fray; and being unarmed, he besought
one of the young men domiciled with Marheyo for the loan of
his spear. But he was refused; the youth roguishly telling him
that the weapon was very good for him (the Typee), but that a white man
could fight much better with his fists.
The merry humour of this young wag seemed to be shared by
the rest, for in spite of their warlike cries and gestures, everybody was
capering and laughing, as if it was one of the funniest things in the world
to be awaiting the flight of a score or two of Happar javelins from an ambush
in the thickets.
While my comrade was in vain trying to make out the meaning
of all this, a good number of the natives separated themselves from the
rest and ran off into the grove on one side, the others now keeping perfectly
still, as if awaiting the result. After a little while, however,
Mow-Mow, who stood in advance, motioned them to come on stealthily, which
they did, scarcely rustling a leaf. Thus they crept along for ten or
fifteen minutes, every now and then pausing to listen.
Toby by no means relished this sort of skulking; if there
was going to be a fight, he wanted it to begin at once. But all
in good time,—for just then, as they went prowling into the thickest of
the wood, terrific howls burst upon them on all sides, and volleys of darts
and stones flew across the path. Not an enemy was to be seen, and what
was still more surprising, not a single man dropped, though the pebbles fell
among the leaves like hail.
There was a moment's pause, when the Typees, with wild
shrieks, flung themselves into the covert, spear in hand; nor was
Toby behindhand. Coming so near getting his skull broken by
the stones, and animated by an old grudge he bore the Happars, he
was among the first to dash at them. As he broke his way through
the underbush, trying, as he did so, to wrest a spear from a young chief,
the shouts of battle all of a sudden ceased, and the wood was as still as
death. The next moment, the party who had left them so mysteriously
rushed out from behind every bush and tree, and united with the rest in long
and merry peals of laughter.
It was all a sham, and Toby, who was quite out of breath
with excitement, was much incensed at being made a fool of.
It afterwards turned out that the whole affair had been
concerted for his particular benefit, though with what precise view
it would be hard to tell. My comrade was the more enraged at
this boys' play, since it had consumed so much time, every moment of which
might be precious. Perhaps, however, it was partly intended for this
very purpose; and he was led to think so, because when the natives started
again, he observed that they did not seem to be in so great a hurry as
before. At last, after they had gone some distance, Toby, thinking all
the while that they never would get to the sea, two men came running
towards them, and a regular halt ensued, followed by a noisy
discussion, during which Toby's name was often repeated. All this made
him more and more anxious to learn what was going on at the beach; but it
was in vain that he now tried to push forward; the natives held him
back.
In a few moments the conference ended, and many of them ran
down the path in the direction of the water, the rest surrounding Toby,
and entreating him to 'Moee', or sit down and rest himself. As an additional
inducement, several calabashes of food, which had been brought along, were
now placed on the ground, and opened, and pipes also were lighted. Toby
bridled his impatience a while, but at last sprang to his feet and dashed
forward again. He was soon overtaken nevertheless, and again surrounded,
but without further detention was then permitted to go down to
the sea.
They came out upon a bright green space between the groves
and the water, and close under the shadow of the Happar mountain, where a
path was seen winding out of sight through a gorge.
No sign of a boat, however, was beheld, nothing but a
tumultuous crowd of men and women, and some one in their midst,
earnestly talking to them. As my comrade advanced, this person
came forward and proved to be no stranger. He was an old
grizzled sailor, whom Toby and myself had frequently seen in
Nukuheva, where he lived an easy devil-may-care life in the household
of Mowanna the king, going by the name of 'Jimmy'. In fact he
was the royal favourite, and had a good deal to say in his
master's councils. He wore a Manilla hat and a sort of tappa
morning gown, sufficiently loose and negligent to show the verse of a song
tattooed upon his chest, and a variety of spirited cuts by native artists in
other parts of his body. He sported a fishing rod in his hand, and
carried a sooty old pipe slung about his neck.
This old rover having retired from active life, had resided
in Nukuheva some time—could speak the language, and for that reason was
frequently employed by the French as an interpreter. He was an arrant
old gossip too; for ever coming off in his canoe to the ships in the bay, and
regaling their crews with choice little morsels of court scandal—such, for
instance, as a shameful intrigue of his majesty with a Happar damsel, a
public dancer at the feasts—and otherwise relating some incredible tales
about the Marquesas generally. I remember in particular his
telling the Dolly's crew what proved to be literally a
cock-and-bull story, about two natural prodigies which he said were then on
the island. One was an old monster of a hermit, having a
marvellous reputation for sanctity, and reputed a famous sorcerer, who
lived away off in a den among the mountains, where he hid from the world a
great pair of horns that grew out of his temples. Notwithstanding his
reputation for piety, this horrid old fellow was the terror of all the island
round, being reported to come out from his retreat, and go a man-hunting
every dark night. Some anonymous Paul Pry, too, coming down the
mountain, once got a peep at his den, and found it full of bones. In
short, he was a most unheard-of monster.
The other prodigy Jimmy told us about was the younger son of
a chief, who, although but just turned of ten, had entered upon holy
orders, because his superstitious countrymen thought him especially intended
for the priesthood from the fact of his having a comb on his head like a
rooster. But this was not all; for still more wonderful to relate, the
boy prided himself upon his strange crest, being actually endowed with a
cock's voice, and frequently crowing over his peculiarity.
But to return to Toby. The moment he saw the old rover
on the beach, he ran up to him, the natives following after, and forming a
circle round them.
After welcoming him to the shore, Jimmy went on to tell him
how that he knew all about our having run away from the ship, and being
among the Typees. Indeed, he had been urged by Mowanna to come over to
the valley, and after visiting his friends there, to bring us back with him,
his royal master being exceedingly anxious to share with him the reward which
had been held out for our capture. He, however, assured Toby that he
had indignantly spurned the offer.
All this astonished my comrade not a little, as neither of us
had entertained the least idea that any white man ever visited the Typees
sociably. But Jimmy told him that such was the case nevertheless,
although he seldom came into the bay, and scarcely ever went back from the
beach. One of the priests of the valley, in some way or other connected
with an old tattooed divine in Nukuheva, was a friend of his, and through him
he was 'taboo'.
He said, moreover, that he was sometimes employed to come
round to the bay, and engage fruit for ships lying in Nukuheva.
In fact, he was now on that very errand, according to his own account,
having just come across the mountains by the way of Happar. By noon of
the next day the fruit would be heaped up in stacks on the beach, in
readiness for the boats which he then intended to bring into the
bay.
Jimmy now asked Toby whether he wished to leave the island—if
he did, there was a ship in want of men lying in the other harbour, and he
would be glad to take him over, and see him on board that very
day.
'No,' said Toby, 'I cannot leave the island unless my
comrade goes with me. I left him up the valley because they would
not let him come down. Let us go now and fetch him.'
'But how is he to cross the mountain with us,' replied
Jimmy, 'even if we get him down to the beach? Better let him stay
till tomorrow, and I will bring him round to Nukuheva in the boats.'
'That will never do,' said Toby, 'but come along with me now,
and let us get him down here at any rate,' and yielding to the impulse of
the moment, he started to hurry back into the valley. But hardly was
his back turned, when a dozen hands were laid on him, and he learned that he
could not go a step further.
It was in vain that he fought with them; they would not hear
of his stirring from the beach. Cut to the heart at this
unexpected repulse, Toby now conjured the sailor to go after me alone.
But Jimmy replied, that in the mood the Typees then were they would not
permit him so to do, though at the same time he was not afraid of their
offering him any harm.
Little did Toby then think, as he afterwards had good reason
to suspect, that this very Jimmy was a heartless villain, who, by his
arts, had just incited the natives to restrain him as he was in the act of
going after me. Well must the old sailor have known, too, that the
natives would never consent to our leaving together, and he therefore wanted
to get Toby off alone, for a purpose which he afterwards made plain. Of
all this, however, my comrade now knew nothing.
He was still struggling with the islanders when Jimmy again
came up to him, and warned him against irritating them, saying that he was
only making matters worse for both of us, and if they became enraged, there
was no telling what might happen. At last he made Toby sit down on a
broken canoe by a pile of stones, upon which was a ruinous little shrine
supported by four upright poles, and in front partly screened by a net.
The fishing parties met there, when they came in from the sea, for their
offerings were laid before an image, upon a smooth black stone within.
This spot Jimmy said was strictly 'taboo', and no one would molest or come
near him while he stayed by its shadow. The old sailor then went off,
and began speaking very earnestly to Mow-Mow and some other chiefs, while all
the rest formed a circle round the taboo place, looking intently at Toby, and
talking to each other without ceasing.
Now, notwithstanding what Jimmy had just told him,
there presently came up to my comrade an old woman, who seated
herself beside him on the canoe.
'Typee motarkee?' said she. 'Motarkee nuee,' said
Toby.
She then asked him whether he was going to Nukuheva; he
nodded yes; and with a plaintive wail and her eyes filling with tears she
rose and left him.
This old woman, the sailor afterwards said, was the wife of
an aged king of a small island valley, communicating by a deep pass with
the country of the Typees. The inmates of the two valleys were related
to each other by blood, and were known by the same name. The old woman
had gone down into the Typee valley the day before, and was now with three
chiefs, her sons, on a visit to her kinsmen.
As the old king's wife left him, Jimmy again came up to Toby,
and told him that he had just talked the whole matter over with
the natives, and there was only one course for him to follow.
They would not allow him to go back into the valley, and harm
would certainly come to both him and me, if he remained much longer on the
beach. 'So,' said he, 'you and I had better go to Nukuheva now
overland, and tomorrow I will bring Tommo, as they call him, by water; they
have promised to carry him down to the sea for me early in the morning, so
that there will be no delay.'
'No, no,' said Toby desperately, 'I will not leave him that
way; we must escape together.'
'Then there is no hope for you,' exclaimed the sailor, 'for if
I leave you here on the beach, as soon as I am gone you will be carried
back into the valley, and then neither of you will ever look upon the sea
again.' And with many oaths he swore that if he would only go to
Nukuheva with him that day, he would be sure to have me there the very next
morning.
'But how do you know they will bring him down to the
beach tomorrow, when they will not do so today?' said Toby. But
the sailor had many reasons, all of which were so mixed up with
the mysterious customs of the islanders, that he was none the wiser.
Indeed, their conduct, especially in preventing him from returning into
the valley, was absolutely unaccountable to him; and added to everything
else, was the bitter reflection, that the old sailor, after all, might
possibly be deceiving him. And then again he had to think of me, left
alone with the natives, and by no means well. If he went with Jimmy, he
might at least hope to procure some relief for me. But might not the
savages who had acted so strangely, hurry me off somewhere before his
return? Then, even if he remained, perhaps they would not let him go
back into the valley where I was.
Thus perplexed was my poor comrade; he knew not what to do,
and his courageous spirit was of no use to him now. There he
was, all by himself, seated upon the broken canoe—the natives
grouped around him at a distance, and eyeing him more and more
fixedly. 'It is getting late: said Jimmy, who was standing behind
the rest. 'Nukuheva is far off, and I cannot cross the
Happar country by night. You see how it is; if you come along
with me, all will be well; if you do not, depend upon it, neither of you
will ever escape.'
'There is no help for it,' said Toby, at last, with a
heavy heart, 'I will have to trust you,' and he came out from the shadow
of the little shrine, and cast a long look up the valley.
'Now keep close to my side,' said the sailor, 'and let us
be moving quickly.' Tinor and Fayaway here appeared; the kindhearted
old woman embracing Toby's knees, and giving way to a flood of tears; while
Fayaway, hardly less moved, spoke some few words of English she had learned,
and held up three fingers before him—in so many days he would
return.
At last Jimmy pulled Toby out of the crowd, and after calling
to a young Typee who was standing by with a young pig in his arms, all
three started for the mountains.
'I have told them that you are coming back again,' said the
old fellow, laughing, as they began the ascent, 'but they'll have to wait
a long time.' Toby turned, and saw the natives all in motion—the girls
waving their tappas in adieu, and the men their spears. As the last
figure entered the grove with one arm raised, and the three fingers spread,
his heart smote him.
As the natives had at last consented to his going, it might
have been, that some of them, at least, really counted upon his
speedy return; probably supposing, as indeed he had told them when
they were coming down the valley, that his only object in leaving them was
to procure the medicines I needed. This, Jimmy also must have told
them. And as they had done before, when my comrade, to oblige me,
started on his perilous journey to Nukuheva, they looked upon me, in his
absence, as one of two inseparable friends who was a sure guaranty for the
other's return. This is only my own supposition, however, for as to all
their strange conduct, it is still a mystery.
'You see what sort of a taboo man I am,' said the sailor,
after for some time silently following the path which led up
the mountain. 'Mow-Mow made me a present of this pig here, and
the man who carries it will go right through Happar, and down
into Nukuheva with us. So long as he stays by me he is safe, and
just so it will be with you, and tomorrow with Tommo. Cheer up,
then, and rely upon me, you will see him in the morning.'
The ascent of the mountain was not very difficult, owing to
its being near to the sea, where the island ridges are comparatively low;
the path, too, was a fine one, so that in a short time all three were
standing on the summit with the two valleys at their feet. The white
cascade marking the green head of the Typee valley first caught Toby's eye;
Marheyo's house could easily be traced by them.
As Jimmy led the way along the ridge, Toby observed that
the valley of the Happars did not extend near so far inland as that of the
Typees. This accounted for our mistake in entering the latter valley as
we had.
A path leading down from the mountain was soon seen,
and, following it, the party were in a short time fairly in the
Happar valley.
'Now,' said Jimmy, as they hurried on, 'we taboo men have
wives in all the bays, and I am going to show you the two I have
here.'
So, when they came to the house where he said they
lived,—which was close by the base of the mountain in a shady nook among
the groves—he went in, and was quite furious at finding it empty—the
ladies, had gone out. However, they soon made their appearance, and to
tell the truth, welcomed Jimmy quite cordially, as well as Toby, about whom
they were very inquisitive. Nevertheless, as the report of their
arrival spread, and the Happars began to assemble, it became evident
that the appearance of a white stranger among them was not by any means
deemed so wonderful an event as in the neighbouring valley.
The old sailor now bade his wives prepare something to eat, as
he must be in Nukuheva before dark. A meal of fish, bread-fruit, and
bananas, was accordingly served up, the party regaling themselves on the
mats, in the midst of a numerous company.
The Happars put many questions to Jimmy about Toby; and
Toby himself looked sharply at them, anxious to recognize the fellow who
gave him the wound from which he was still suffering. But this fiery
gentleman, so handy with his spear, had the delicacy, it seemed, to keep out
of view. Certainly the sight of him would not have been any added
inducement to making a stay in the valley,—some of the afternoon loungers in
Happar having politely urged Toby to spend a few days with them,—there was a
feast coming on. He, however, declined.
All this while the young Typee stuck to Jimmy like his
shadow, and though as lively a dog as any of his tribe, he was now as meek
as a lamb, never opening his mouth except to eat. Although some of the
Happars looked queerly at him, others were more civil, and seemed desirous of
taking him abroad and showing him the valley. But the Typee was not to
be cajoled in that way. How many yards he would have to remove from
Jimmy before the taboo would be powerless, it would be hard to tell, but
probably he himself knew to a fraction.
On the promise of a red cotton handkerchief, and something
else which he kept secret, this poor fellow had undertaken a
rather ticklish journey, though, as far as Toby could ascertain, it
was something that had never happened before.
The island-punch—arva—was brought in at the conclusion of
the repast, and passed round in a shallow calabash.
Now my comrade, while seated in the Happar house, began to
feel more troubled than ever at leaving me; indeed, so sad did he
feel that he talked about going back to the valley, and wanted Jimmy to
escort him as far as the mountains. But the sailor would not listen to
him, and, by way of diverting his thoughts, pressed him to drink of the
arva. Knowing its narcotic nature, he refused; but Jimmy said he would
have something mixed with it, which would convert it into an innocent
beverage that would inspirit them for the rest of their journey. So at
last he was induced to drink of it, and its effects were just as the sailor
had predicted; his spirits rose at once, and all his gloomy thoughts left
him.
The old rover now began to reveal his true character, though
he was hardly suspected at the time. 'If I get you off to a
ship,' said he, 'you will surely give a poor fellow something for
saving you.' In short, before they left the house, he made Toby
promise that he would give him five Spanish dollars if he succeeded
in getting any part of his wages advanced from the vessel, aboard of which
they were going; Toby, moreover, engaging to reward him still further, as
soon as my deliverance was accomplished.
A little while after this they started again, accompanied by
many of the natives, and going up the valley, took a steep path near its
head, which led to Nukuheva. Here the Happars paused and watched them
as they ascended the mountain, one group of bandit-looking fellows, shaking
their spears and casting threatening glances at the poor Typee, whose heart
as well as heels seemed much the lighter when he came to look down
upon them.
On gaining the heights once more, their way led for a time
along several ridges covered with enormous ferns. At last they
entered upon a wooded tract, and here they overtook a party of
Nukuheva natives, well armed, and carrying bundles of long poles.
Jimmy seemed to know them all very well, and stopped for a while, and had
a talk about the 'Wee-Wees', as the people of Nukuheva call the
Monsieurs.
The party with the poles were King Mowanna's men, and by
his orders they had been gathering them in the ravines for his allies the
French.
Leaving these fellows to trudge on with their loads, Toby and
his companions now pushed forward again, as the sun was already low in the
west. They came upon the valleys of Nukuheva on one side of the bay,
where the highlands slope off into the sea. The men-of-war were still
lying in the harbour, and as Toby looked down upon them, the strange events
which had happened so recently, seemed all a dream.
They soon descended towards the beach, and found themselves
in Jimmy's house before it was well dark. Here he received
another welcome from his Nukuheva wives, and after some refreshments
in the shape of cocoanut milk and poee-poee, they entered a canoe (the
Typee of course going along) and paddled off to a whaleship which was
anchored near the shore. This was the vessel in want of men. Our
own had sailed some time before. The captain professed great pleasure
at seeing Toby, but thought from his exhausted appearance that he must be
unfit for duty. However, he agreed to ship him, as well as his comrade,
as soon as he should arrive. Toby begged hard for an armed boat, in
which to go round to Typee and rescue me, notwithstanding the promises of
Jimmy. But this the captain would not hear of, and told him to
have patience, for the sailor would be faithful to his word.
When, too, he demanded the five silver dollars for Jimmy, the captain was
unwilling to give them. But Toby insisted upon it, as he now began to
think that Jimmy might be a mere mercenary, who would be sure to prove
faithless if not well paid. Accordingly he not only gave him the money,
but took care to assure him, over and over again, that as soon as he brought
me aboard he would receive a still larger sum.
Before sun-rise the next day, Jimmy and the Typee started in
two of the ship's boats, which were manned by tabooed natives.
Toby, of course, was all eagerness to go along, but the sailor told
him that if he did, it would spoil all; so, hard as it was, he was obliged
to remain.
Towards evening he was on the watch, and descried the
boats turning the headland and entering the bay. He strained his
eyes, and thought he saw me; but I was not there. Descending from
the mast almost distracted, he grappled Jimmy as he struck the
deck, shouting in a voice that startled him, 'Where is Tommo?' The
old fellow faltered, but soon recovering, did all he could to soothe him,
assuring him that it had proved to be impossible to get me down to the shore
that morning; assigning many plausible reasons, and adding that early on the
morrow he was going to visit the bay again in a French boat, when, if he did
not find me on the beach—as this time he certainly expected to—he would
march right back into the valley, and carry me away at all hazards.
He, however, again refused to allow Toby to accompany him.
Now, situated as Toby was, his sole dependence for the present was upon
this Jimmy, and therefore he was fain to comfort himself as well as he could
with what the old sailor told him. The next morning, however, he had
the satisfaction of seeing the French boat start with Jimmy in it.
Tonight, then, I will see him, thought Toby; but many a long day passed
before he ever saw Tommo again. Hardly was the boat out of sight, when
the captain came forward and ordered the anchor weighed; he was going to
sea.
Vain were all Toby's ravings—they were disregarded; and when
he came to himself, the sails were set, and the ship fast leaving the
land.
. . . 'Oh!' said he to me at our meeting, 'what
sleepless nights were mine. Often I started from my hammock, dreaming
you were before me, and upbraiding me for leaving you on the
island.'
. .
. . . . .
There is little more to be related. Toby left this
vessel at New Zealand, and after some further adventures, arrived home in
less than two years after leaving the Marquesas. He always thought
of me as dead—and I had every reason to suppose that he too was no more;
but a strange meeting was in store for us, one which made Toby's heart all
the lighter.
NOTE.
The author was more than two years in the South Seas,
after escaping from the valley, as recounted in the last chapter.
Some time after returning home the foregoing narrative was
published, though it was little thought at the time that this would be
the means of revealing the existence of Toby, who had long been given up
for lost. But so it proved.
The story of his escape supplies a natural sequel to
the adventure, and as such it is now added to the volume. It
was related to the author by Toby himself, not ten days since.
New York, July, 1846.
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